Heritage Capital Hyderabad
Heritage monuments of Hyderabad like never before
HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 © Indian Express Newspapers (Mumbai) Limited 3 REGD.NO.MH/MR/SOUTH-156/2007/09 LICENSED TO POST WITHOUT PREPAYMENT SOUTH-29/2007-09 POSTED AT IND.EXP.PSO REGD.WITH RNI UNDER NO.15993/05. HERITAGE LIVES IN YOU Heritage monuments and buildings as an inheritance, passed on from generations, reflect a rare magnanimity. It is a treasure of unimaginable value; primarily because it draws us back to history and inspires by the sheer perseverance and immaculate dedication with which our ancestors built it to perfection, making it last for centuries. These are our heritage, which had the courage to challenge the test of time and emerge victorious. But it’s an irony that we, the Generation Now, tend to forget their journey. Considering the heavily commercial and rapid fast growth of the world, the need of the day is to ensure that these heritage buildings and monuments are protected and restored. “Heritage Capital – Hyderabad” is an effort towards this direction. It’s all about showcasing the precious heritage of Hyderabad, which is right in our backyard. The book will probably make us question ourselves. Are we doing enough to save our heritage from the perilous test of time in the fast growing mechanical world, which is easily engulfing space at every nook and cranny? Are we doing enough to protect them from the poisonous air right from the ground to the sky above? Are we safeguarding it from encroachers who are thriving on our heritage? This Picture Book should be a revelation to all of us. With ‘Heritage Capital Hyderabad’, we have tried to capture time in its rarest form – that of standing still. The venture is to hold history, go back to time, feel and know what they created and how they did so with such rare magnificence. This Picture Book is a tribute to time and it is not an event that happens often. Memories of an era are etched in this Book. It is an effort to refresh forgotten reminiscences. We hope that with this book you will ‘feel’ history. It should, because while the book tries to capture the spirit of the city’s bygone era, it also unleashes the rage of war, the passions of an era, the affection of a father to his son, the religious fervour of times, the aristocracy of supreme measures, the humbleness of the mighty, the benevolence of the rich…above all it makes you understand life in the days of yore. So, like our ancestors, it becomes our duty to ensure that we pass on this treasure trove of heritage to our future generations. We hope that with “Heritage Capital Hyderabad”, you will look back at the marvels crafted to perfection by your ancestors with pride and do your bit towards ensuring that these monuments, buildings and rocks are safeguarded for many more years to come. After all, it’s a heritage that lives within you. INDIAN BIJU MATHEWS GENERAL MANAGER, EXPRESS (MUMBAI) GROUP HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 MESSAGE NARAYAN DUTT TIWARI HONOURABLE GOVERNOR, ANDHRA PRADESH I am delighted to learn that the Indian Express Group (Mumbai) Group, is bringing out an Exclusive document titled “Heritage Capital - Hyderabad” on the Heritage sites and monuments depicting the rich cultural heritage of Hyderabad. Hyderabad - a city of one thousand gardens in the past, is also known for its grand Palaces and other historical Buildings that are an architect’s delight. There is a need to conserve these Heritage structures through suitable strategies and initiatives. This Document, I hope, will become a collector’s item. I wish the Indian Express (Mumbai) Group all success in its future endeavours. (Narayan Dutt Tiwari) 6 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 MESSAGE DR. Y. S. RAJASEKHARA REDDY HONOURABLE CHIEF MINISTER, ANDHRA PRADESH I am happy to note that the Indian Express Newspapers (Mumbai) Limited is bringing out a book -”Heritage Capital- Hyderabad” on the heritage sites & Monuments depicting the rich cultural heritage and the glorious past of Hyderabad. Hyderabad, the historic walled city has over 400 years of history. Hyderabad is a cosmopolitan city and is known for its heritage, hospitality and is a thriving software hub. The ‘City of Pearls’ which is known for its ancient history and culture, has come a long way and is continuing its race with the times without compromising on its ethnicity. Hyderabad is famous world over for its fabulous Diamond markets, glass embedded bangles and the delectable Hyderabadi cuisine, especially the Biriyani. The city attracted many business houses of international repute to set its bases here. With the proactive government and fast infrastructural development taking place, IT sector has penetrated into the city to such an extent that the outskirts of Hyderabad is christened as ‘Cyberabad’. I am sure; the book will be informative and colourful. (Dr. Y. S. Rajasekhara Reddy) 7 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 THE GRANDEUR OF BEING HYDERABAD Grandeur in itself reflects a quality of exuding magnificence. It also connotes nobility or greatness of character. Being Hyderabad reflects both these significant traits. Right from the Asaf Jahis to the Mughals to the Qutub Shahis, the city has always radiated an extraordinary regality in perfect harmony with elegance, and its inheritance continues to do so with rare brilliance. 1591 AD. The year was witness to some of the most momentous feats history has encrypted. The whole world was War torn. The Battle of Tondibi in Mali, the superiority of Dutch under Maurice of Nassau, Moroccan invaders sack Timbuktu…it was a year when man saw war as a source of inspiration. While world-over there was destruction, loss, incarceration, in a quaint but elegant and prosperous world of the Qutub Shahis, there was a major event unfolding that would eventually result in an entity which would be among the top contenders of modern world capability. The event was the founding of Hyderabad. A city known for its rich history, culture and architecture, Hyderabad always represented a unique character as a meeting point of North and South India. Multifaceted, both geographically and culturally, it is versatile city waiting to welcome anyone with open arms. Today, Hyderabad’s cultural heritage is a legacy of physical artefacts and intangible attributes of many rulers, inherited, maintained in the present and bestowed for the benefit of future generations. Often though, what is considered cultural heritage by one generation may be rejected by the next generation, only to be revived by a succeeding generation, the case with Hyderabad is no different. There could have been plenty of heritage monuments, destroyed by the then generation or by time. But what remains today are some of the most historically significant monuments which are awe-inspiring in itself. Though Hyderabad is today one of the fastest developing cities in the country and a modern hub of Information Technology and Biotechnology, it is still reminded of its past glory by these monuments which stood the test of time. An inspirational look into the city’s past to relive its royal glory often leaves one to wonder if it was pleasant to be living during those days or is it just fine living, gazing and getting surprised. The Qutub Shahis: Creators of Hyderabad In 1518, Sultan Quli Qutub-ul-Mulk declared independence of the Telangana region from the Bahmani Sultanate situated in Bidar; he established the Golconda Sultanate under the title Sultan Quli Qutub Shah. This was the start 8 of the Qutub Shahi Dynasty. Consequently, the Bahmani Sultanate disintegrated into five different kingdoms, with the others based in Ahmednagar, Berar, Bidar and Bijapur. Mohammed Quli Qutub Shah, built the city of Hyderabad which was formerly known as Bhagyanagar, on the banks of the Musi River, 8 kms east of Golconda in 1589; he dedicated this new city to his beloved Hindu wife Bhagyamathi (hence the name Bhagyanagar). In 1591, to HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 show his gratitude towards the almighty for preventing a plague epidemic from damaging the health of his new city, he planned the construction of the Char Minar, which is now the most iconic monument of the city. Before this architectural feat, a few years earlier, the Purana Pul (old bridge) spanning Hyderabad to visit his wife, his father Ibrahim Qutub Shah got the bridge constructed. Nurturing Hyderabad With the rise of the Qutub Shahi power and fortune in the 16th century, Hyderabad became a centre of a flourishing diamond trade. All seven Qutub Shahi sultans were patrons of learning and were great builders. They contributed to the growth and development of Indo-Persian and Indo-Islamic literature and culture in Hyderabad. In the 16th century the city of Hyderabad grew to accommodate the surplus population of Golconda and eventually became the capital of the Qutub Shahi rulers. The Mughal Conquest After the death of Shah Jahan in 1666, Aurangzeb launched an almost desperate campaign to expand the empire beyond what Akbar had already established. His aim was the Deccan region of India; his target was the rich city of Hyderabad, protected by the supposedly impregnable fort of Golconda. After an unsuccessful attempt in 1686, Aurangzeb laid siege to Golconda again in 1687. After 9 months of the fort holding strong, Aurungzeb was finally able to conquer the fort; urban legends suggest that this happened only because a traitor bribed by Aurungzeb, opened the fort gates at night. After a brief rule, the Mughal dynasty diluted following the death of Aurungzeb in 1707; the Mughal-appointed governors started gaining sovereignty from the Mughal Empire centred in Delhi. The Asaf Jahis: Nizams of Hyderabad In 1724, Asaf Jah I, who was granted the title Nizam-ul-Mulk (governor of the country) by the Mughal emperor, began the Asaf Jahi dynasty that would rule Hyderabad till Indiaâ€™s independence from the British. Asaf Jahâ€™s successors ruled as the Nizams of Hyderabad; their rule saw the growth of Hyderabad both culturally and economically. the Musi River was built as a linkage to enable quick travel between the establishments of Golconda and Hyderabad. Rumour has it that to protect the life of Mohd. Qutub Shah when he travelled during heavy monsoons to Hyderabad became the formal capital of the kingdom and infrastructure in the form of huge reservoirs, like the Nizam Sagar, Osman Sagar, and Himayat Sagar was established. By the middle of 18th century, the scions, known as The Nizams, had quickly surpassed the Mughals ruling a vast dominion of about 125,000,000 acres in south India. They were among the wealthiest people in the world. 9 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 Seven Nizams ruled Hyderabad for two centuries until Indian independence in 1947. A legend about the first Nizam states that, on one of his hunting trips he was offered some kulchas (an Indian bread) by a holy man and was asked to eat as many as he could. The Nizam could eat seven kulchas and the holy man then prophesied that seven generations of his family would rule the state. The Asaf Jahi rulers were great patrons of literature, art, architecture,culture, Jewelry collection and rich food. Ruling the Kingdom The Nizams, throughout their generations, secured the friendships of the British and the French during their times of power. They allied themselves with each side at different times, playing a significant role in the wars involving the British and the French. Hyderabad, under the Nizams, was the largest and considered the most senior princely state in India; the State had its own currency, mint, railways, and postal system. The Hyderabad State, though surrounded by British India, was politically isolated from the rest of the nation. The Nizams were reputed to be domineering but compassionate rulers; they pledged allegiance to the King of England in order to retain control over their vast provinces. The Last Nizam, Osman Ali Khan The seventh and the last Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan, made Hyderabad into the wealthiest state in the sub-continent. He was considered the world’s richest man, and he was famous for his patronage to learning and institutions. Mir Osman Ali Khan founded a number of institutions including the historical Osmania General Hospital and Osmania University, which are now part of the heritage sites of the city. After India gained independence in 1947, the Nizam declared his intention to retain an independent state, but on September 16, 1948, the Indian government sent in the Army and defeated the Hyderabad forces in 4 days. The Nizam finally surrendered and Hyderabad was integrated into the Indian Union. Rich Heritage Hyderabad’s heritage is as old and vivid as its nearly 420 years old history. The architectural impact in Hyderabad ranges from Buddhist Setups, Hindu and Jain temples of great importance to imposing churches; from secular monuments such as the Charminar to some of the most beautiful mosques and Islamic tombs of India. Owing to the rich cultural heritage of the city, the building style developed in Hyderabad was most unlike other parts of India; the unique architecture developed here based more on overseas influence than the adaptation of local architectural tradition to Islamic needs. The Qutub Shahis built with massive granite walls; granite and lime mortar were the chief ingredients of Golconda Fort, the Royal Tombs, the Charminar and the innumerable Qutub Shahi mosques. 10 The Asaf Jahis who succeeded the Qutub Shahis were prolific builders. Several palace complexes of the Nizam, landmarks like the Andhra Pradesh High Court, the Osmania Arts College and the Osmania Medical College building are among their well-known contributions. Asaf Jahi rulers also experimented with European styles and incorporated European traditions with Hindu and Islamic forms and patterns. Apart from 32 archaeological monuments short listed by the Hyderabad Urban Development Authority (HUDA), 137 heritage buildings and 9 precinct rocks have been identified by it. It has been widely quoted that “Hyderabad, under the Nizam’s, was the largest princely state in India. Area wise it was as big as England and Scotland put together. The State had its own currency, mint, railways, and postal system. There was no income tax.” Charminar has been a famous monument which has become a signature of the city. While its history and its making have resulted in immensely gratifying essays by plenty, the other monuments and buildings of the city too draw equal recognition. Golconda, Qutub Shahi Tombs, Taramati Baradari are names which many know of, but there are others replete with historical diversity like the I.Prakash Building or the Armenian Cemetery or even the Monty’s Bar. Some of the heritage buildings like Falaknuma Palace, Sita Ram Bagh Temple, St. Joseph’s Cathedral, St. George’s Church and the Residency Complex are more than 100 years old. Then there are buildings like the Central Building Division, Adil Alam Mansion, Ravi Bar, and Devdi Ranachand Ahotichand which could not hold on in the face of development. Demolished, they remain in the list but we have tried to get a glimpse of their years in glory. The state government has rightly recognised the need for the restoration and maintenance of the heritage structures, some more than 200 years old, and announced some financial contribution to the Heritage Fund. Protection and renovation, without altering the basic structure of the heritage buildings and monuments, are needed for promoting heritage tourism. Recently, the government of Iran proposed to fund a Rs. 200 crore project at Hyderabad to develop seven famous tombs of the Nizam period along with the Premamati Mosque and Badshahi Ashur Khana as sites of heritage and culture. Iran has chosen these structures for its project as all of them were said to have been constructed under the supervision of architects brought from Iran at that time. With these signature monuments and building of time, Hyderabad is and will probably continue to inspire, surprise and leave many a heart touched of the a bygone era of valour and grandeur. HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 11 32 PROTECTED ARCHAEOLOGICAL MONUMENTS IN HYDERABAD, WHICH HAVE SPREAD THE STATE’S AND HYDERABAD’S NAME ACROSS THE WORLD WITH ITS RARE ARCHITECTURE, STRONG FOUNDATION, ARTISTIC NATURE, RELIGIOUS IMPORTANCE AND HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE. CHARMINAR HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 LOCATION: NEAR THE MUSI RIVER PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION: 1591-1592 Though we travel the world over to find the beautiful, we must carry it with us or we find it not. - Ralph Waldo Emerson Charminar meaning ‘Four Towers’ or ‘Mosque of the four minarets’ is synonymous to Hyderabad. Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah built this signature monument in 1591. Legend has it that the building honors a promise Quli Qutb Shah made to Allah. He supposedly had prayed for the end of a plague and vowed that he would build a masjid on that very place. The actual masjid occupies the top floor of the four-story structure. Each side measures 20 m, and each of the corners has a tall, pointed minaret. These four gracefully carved minarets soar to a height of 48.7 m above the ground. Built with granite and lime mortar, Charminar is a fine example of the Cazia style of architecture. Locally available granite, sand and lime were used in the construction of Qutb Shahi monuments including Charminar. Lime used for the plaster seems to have been specifically ground and treated to create a durable stucco (Stucco or render is a material made of an aggregate, a binder, and water. It is applied wet and hardens to a very dense solid. It is used as a coating for walls and ceilings and for decoration). 15 MECCA MASJID HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 LOCATION: NEAR CHARMINAR PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION: 1614-1693 â€œFor everything that lives is holy, life delights in lifeâ€?- William Blake Mecca Masjid is one of the oldest and the biggest mosques in the country. The mosque is believed to contain sacred relics, one of which is the hair of the Islamic prophet Muhammad. It is also believed that some of the bricks were brought from Holy Mecca, which was built into the central arch, lending the masjid its name. It is located close to the historic Charminar, Chowmahalla Palace and Laad Bazaar. It was built during the reign of Sultan Muhammad Qutb Shah, the 6th Sultan of Hyderabad who began building it in 1617 under the supervision of Mir Faizullah Baig and Rangaiah Chowdary. The work continued during the reign of Abdullah Qutub Shah and Tana Shah and was completed in 1694 by the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. It took about 8000 masons and 77 years to be completed. The hall is 67 metres by 54 metres and 23 metres high. The roof is supported by 15 arches, five on each of the three sides. The western side is blocked by a high wall to provide the Mehrab. At each end are two huge octagonal columns made out of a single piece of granite each and topped by an arched gallery that is crowned by a dome. This mosque can accommodate about ten thousand people at a time. 17 GOLCONDA HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 LOCATION: 10 KMS FROM HYDERABAD CITY PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION: 1143 “A mighty fortress is our God, A bulwark never failing.” - Martin Luther Golkonda or Golconda, a ruined city is situated west of Hyderabad. The most important builder of Golconda was Ibrahim Quli Qutb Shah Wali, the fourth Qutb king. Ibrahim was following in the spirit of his ancestors, the Qutub Shahi kings, a great family of builders who had ruled the kingdom of Golconda from 1512. Their first capital, the fortress citadel of Golconda, was rebuilt for defense from invading Mughals from the north. They laid out Golconda’s splendid monuments, now in ruins, and designed a perfect acoustical system by which a hand clap sounded at the fort’s main gates, the grand portico, was heard at the top of the citadel, situated on a 300-foot (91 m)-high granite hill. This is one of the fascinating features of the fort. According to a legend, the fort derives its name from Golla Konda, which is a Telugu word for Shepherd’s Hill. It is believed that a shepherd boy came across an idol on the hill. This led to the construction of a mud fort by the then Kakatiya dynasty ruler of the kingdom around the site. The place is also known as Mankal (The Mahakali temple located inside the fort, and the festival of Bonalu of twin cities begin here). 19 QUTB SHAHI TOMBS HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 LOCATION: NEAR GOLCONDA FORT PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION: 1518-1687 â€œI am I and you are you, and if in the end we are together, then it is beautiful.â€? The Qutb Shahi tombs form a large, close group standing on a raised plateau. Nowhere in the world are there so many tombs in one place as here. Erected in the memory of the departed kings of Golconda, these tombs and other monuments of the Qutb Shahi kings mark a unique architectural style quite distinct from that of the Bahmani or Adil-Shahi kings. The Qutb Shahi style is a mixture of Persian, Pathan and Hindu forms. Each stands on a wide quadrangular terrace approached on all sides by flights of steps. The principal material used is grey granite, embellished with stucco decoration in places. Originally each tomb had a mosque as an adjunct. When Aurangzeb captured Golconda his officers were quartered in these tombs. There are 30 in the complex, besides some in the open. Noteworthy among these are the tombs of the seven kings and the one of Hayath Bakshi Begum. Restoration work on these tombs was started by Salar Jung I and a wall was also built surrounding the tombs. 21 PAIGAH TOMBS HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 LOCATION: SANTOSH NAGAR COLONY “Noble souls, through dust and heat, rise from disaster and defeat the stronger.” - Henry Wadsworth Longfellow Paigah Tombs are the tombs belonging to the nobleman of the Paigah family. They are located at Pisal banda suburb. The style of architecture is unique to the Paigah tombs. The tombs were constructed in the years late 1700’s and early 1800’s. The tombs are magnificent structures, decorated in stucco work, and represent the Moghal, Greek, Persian, Asaf Jahi, Rajasthani and Deccani style of architecture. The tombs of several generations of the Paigah nobles include Abul Fatah Khan, Shums ul Umra I to Shums ul Umra V, Sir Asman Jah, Sir Vicarul-Umra, Sultan ul Mulk, Lady Vicar ul Umra, Lady Khurshid Jah, Lady Asman Jah, Moin ud Dowla, Zaheer yar Jung and other members of the Paigah Family. The geometrical designs in the Paigah Tombs are unique and are perforated with screens with great craftsmanship. 23 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 AKKANNA SARAI “Never fear growing old; there are many who have never had the privilege” LOCATION: MAHESHWARAM VILLAGE PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION: 1674-1686 Akkanna Sarai or Maisaram (Rest House) is situated at the eastern end of Maheswaram village. This sarai was named after Akkanna, a senior official during the reign of Abdullah Qutb Shah. He and his brother Madanna came from a learned family of Hanamkunda and it appears that in the past the family was closely associated with the Golconda rulers. Madanna served the kingdom with a broad outlook. He was appointed as peshkar during Qutb Shah’s reign and later promoted to the prestigious post of Dewan (1674-1686). Both Akkanna and Madanna were killed by conspirators. The Sarai has a vast compound enclosed by colonnades with cubicles and is surrounded by a high wall. There is a dilapidated building in the middle and a large tank on the north-east of the Sarai with imposing steps and an island temple in the middle of the tank. In the South of the Sarai, there is an old mosque in Qutb Shahi style. BADSHAHI ASHURKHANA “But let them sleep, Lord, and me mourn a space.” - John Donne Following Shia tradition the Qutb Shahis built Ashurkhanas (mourning halls) for the annual Muharram celebrations. Muhammad Quli Qutb built this house of mourning in 1594. Barely 100 metres away from the Naya Pul bridge, opposite the Madina Building, the Badshahi Ashur Khana bears the name of its builder in the central niche . The Qutb Shahis were not known for enamel decoration, but nearly 400 years later, the enamel tiles continue to keep their luster. 24 LOCATION: NEAR NAYA PUL PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION: 1592-96 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 PURANI IDGAH “Hope is the pillar that holds up the world. Hope is the dream of a waking man.” - Pliny the Elder Like most monuments, Purani Idgah is also located in Old City’s Edi Bazaar area, close to Saidabad. While the year of construction is not known, it is believed that the structure is more than 300 years old. The most attractive aspect of this monument is its two astounding pillars having resemblance to the Charminar. The monument is otherwise mainly thronged by Muslims during ID. It is a small structure, but during Namaz days, people use the huge ground that the monument overlooks. For the locals of Saidabad and surrounding areas, this is their signature monument. LOCATION: EDI BAZAR DABIRPURA GATE “The fence that makes good neighbors needs a gate to make good friends” During the reign of Sultan Abdul Hasan, the last Qutb Shahi ruler, a wall was constructed from Puranapul to Delhi Darwaza (Gate). Later, during the days of Mubrez Khan, the last Mughal Subedar, a wall was erected around the city of Hyderabad. It was built from Delhi Darwaza to Chaderghat Darwaza. When the first Nizam became independent in 1724, he instructed his son Nawab Mir Ahmed Khan Salabat Jung to complete the construction. Dabirpura Darwaza was then built between 1724 and 1740. LOCATION: DABIRPURA ROAD PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION: 1724-1740 25 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 DARGA HAZRATH SAIDANIMA SAHEBA “It may be, it just may be, that life as we know it with its humanity is more unique than many have thought.” - Lyndon B. Johnson Hazrath Saidanima Saheba was mother of Abdul Haq Diler Jung, who was a high ranking official during the mid-Nineteenth century. The main tomb in the darga is of Hazrath Saidanima Saheba. It is unique in itself because it is one among those where the entire upper portion, dome etc. of the tomb is Qutb Shahi but the arcade at the ground floor is of cusped arches in Mughal style. A very conspicuous specimen of Neo Qutb Shahi style is this tomb and that Abdul Haq Diler Jung own tomb (1896), near Secunderabad Boats Club. His tomb has intricate Jali work. LOCATION: NEAR HUSSIAN SAGAR (TANK BUND) PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION: 1883 DARGAH HAZRATH SYED SHAH RAZIUDDIN “True strength lies in submission which permits one to dedicate his life, through devotion, to something beyond himself.” Henry Miller This dargah is situated near Fateh Darwaza in the Old City. Syed Shah Raziuddin alias Shah Raju was a nephew of Husain Shah Wali. Abul Hasan Tana Shah was his devoted disciple and through Shah Raju’s spiritual provisions he became the king’s son-in-law and then ascended the throne. Shah Raju died in 1684 A.D. during the reign of Tana Shah who built a splendid dome over his grave. 26 LOCATION: SOUTH OF FATEH DARWAZA PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION: 1684 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 MONSIEUR RAYMOND’S OBELISK “The prudent see only the difficulties, the bold only the advantages, of a great enterprise; the hero sees both; diminishes the former and makes the latter preponderate, and so conquers.” Johann Kaspar Lavater LOCATION: ASMAN GARH (NEAR TV TOWER) PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION: 1798 A tapering, four-sided shaft of stone having a pyramidal apex, Monsieur Raymond’s tomb resides on the top of a small hillock in Saroor Nagar. Made of polished black granite, it is 23 feet high and stands on a masonry platform 180 feet long and 80 feet wide. On the tomb are the simple initials “J.R.” This is the resting place of Michel Joachim Marie Raymond, French adventurer, military commander and the Nizam’s confidant. He came to be revered as a Saint by Hindus “Musa Ram”, and Muslims “Musa Rahim”, alike. He died when he was only 42. About 25 feet away is a flat-roofed building, supported by 28 pillars and forming a shrine like a Grecian Temple. A mysterious grave is close by with inscriptions of Anne Elizabeth Jenkins dying at the age of 21 years and 6 months on November 26, 1809, but nothing is known of this lady. PATANCHERU TOMBS Yet spirit immortal, the tomb cannot bind thee, But like thine own eagle that soars to the sun Thou springest from bondage and leavest behind thee A name which before thee no mortal hath won.- Lyman Heath Catacomb of the 16 th century feudatory of the Qutb Shahis, Amin Khan, who ruled Patancheru area, about 20 km from Golconda, it is raised on a square platform with a dome raised on a high cylindrical drum. Each wall has three well decorated arches at the apex and lotus medallions in the roughly triangular space between the curves of the arch. LOCATION: ASMAN GARH (NEAR TV TOWER) PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION: 1798 27 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 TOLI MASJID “Things are pretty, graceful, rich, elegant, handsome, but until they speak to the imagination, not yet beautiful” Ralph Waldo Emerson One of the finest examples of Qutb Shahi architecture, Toli Masjid was built in 1671, situated in the suburb of Karvan about 2 km from the Golconda fort, by Mir Musa Khan Mahaldar, royal architect of Abdullah Qutb Shah. Two minarets of 20 metres each, flank the edifice. The parapets on top comprise a series of miniature arches with perforated screens of different designs. The facade has five arches and the interior of the mosque is divided into two halls, a transverse outer hall and an inner hall entered through triple arches. The upper half of this mosque is the most ornate of the period. LOCATION: NEAR FILM NAGAR (BEHIND APPOLO HOSPITAL) PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION: 1671 KHAIRATH KHAN’S TOMB “I’m not a teacher: only a fellow-traveller of whom you asked the way. I pointed ahead - ahead of myself as well as you.” - George Bernard Shaw An extensively travelled man, Khairath Khan was chosen as Ambassador during the rule of Sultan Abdullah Qutb Shah. When the grandmother of the Sultan was scheduled to go on a pilgrimage to Mecca, Khairath Khan accompanied her till Masulipatnam. Khairath Khan built several shops and gardens close to the northern steps of Musa Burj in the Golconda Fort. His grave is now known as Khairath Khan Tomb. 28 LOCATION: NEAR GOLCONDA FORT PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION: 1518-1687 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 HAYAT BAKSHI BEGUM’S MOSQUE “The greatest treasures are those invisible to the eye but found by the heart.” Hayath Nagar is situated about 16 Kms east of Hyderabad and was built by Hayath Bakshi Begum in 1626 A.D. Hayath Bakshi Begum was popularly known as Ma Saheba (Reverent Mother). She was the only daughter of the fifth king Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah and married his nephew who became the sixth king, Sultan Muhammad Qutb Shah VI. She was a political guide and played a prominent part during the reign of the three Qutb Shahi Kings. PERIOD LOCATION: HAYATNAGAR OF CONSTRUCTION: 1626-1672 Hayat Bakshi Begum’s Mosque was built during the same time. On a terrace measuring about 150 feet each way is situated an extensive Caravan Sarai. The mosque proper is composed of five double arches of massive masonry and is flanked by two lofty minarets. The extensive court yard is surrounded on all sides by several hundred double rooms which were intended for the use of travellers. The mosque is a very fine specimen of Qutb Shahi architecture. Hayath Bakshi Begum died in the year 1666 A.D at the age of 76. 29 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 TARAMATI BARADARI “I’m becoming more and more myself with time. I guess that’s what grace is. The refinement of your soul through time.” - Jewel Taramati Baradari is a palace located near Gandipet lake, built by the Seventh Sultan of Golconda, Abdullah Qutb Shah as an ode to his favorite courtesan, Taramati. It is celebrated as an amalgam of the romance and grace of the middle ages. Taramati was to Abdullah Qutb Shah, what Bhagmati was to his grandfather Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, the Founder of Hyderabad. The baradari with 12 doorways were to allow cross ventilation, considered to be the most 30 LOCATION: NEAR GANDIPET PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION: 1625 ingenious technique at the time. Abdullah Qutb Shah is believed to have enjoyed Taramati’s song even while at Golconda fort. Her melodious voice would be carried by the breeze, reaching the prince’s ear at the fort, because of the acoustics model, in the structure as well as that of the fort. One tells of two ravishing dancing girls, Taramati and Premamati, sisters who danced on ropes tied between their pavilion and the balcony of the king and patron, Abdulla Qutub Shah. About half a mile north of the fort itself lies his grave amid a cluster of carved royal tombs. Here lie buried the Qutub Shahi kings and queens in what once their rose gardens. As a tribute to Taramati and Premamati, they both were buried in the royal cemetery of the Qutub Shahi kings. HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 MUSHIRABAD MOSQUE “The best part of beauty is that which no picture can express.” - Francis Bacon, Sr. Mushirabad Mosque is situated in Mushirabad locality, north of Chikkadapally, in the historic pearl city of Hyderabad. It was built by Abdullah Qutb Shah during 16261672 in a small village of the Qutb Shahi period. It has a frontage of five arches with two lofty minarets. It is painted complete white and has certain elegance attached to it especially due to its curvy design element above the arches and petal-string design on the roof. PERIOD LOCATION: MUSHIRABAD OF CONSTRUCTION: 1626-1672 Son of Sultan Muhammad, Abdullah ascended the throne at the age of 12, his mother administering the kingdom till he attained majority. Though the Kingdom was extended during his rule, it came under Mughal pressure in 1636 and in 1656, Golconda was attacked and as a result, heavy indemnities had to be paid. He died on 1st May 1672. PREMAMATI’S MOSQUE “Outward beauty is not enough; to be attractive a woman must use words, wit, playfulness, sweet-talk, and laughter to transcend the gifts of Nature” Petronius Situated along the road leading from the Golconda Fort to Gandipet, Premamati’s Mosque was built around 1625. Premamati was one of the favorite courtesans of Abdullah Qutub Shah, the Seventh Qutub Shah. When she died, her body was buried in the royal cemetery of the Qutub Shahi kings. The mosque has five arches and no minarets which is quite unique . LOCATION: NEAR GANDIPET PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION: 1625 31 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 MIYAN MISHK MASJID “Out of suffering have emerged the strongest souls; the most massive characters are seared with scars.” Kahlil Gibran Built in 1678, this mosque bears the name of its builder Malik Miyan Mishk, an Abyssinian (or Habesha people - In the broadest sense, the word “Habesha” may refer to anyone from Ethiopia or Eritrea, while some would exclude themselves from this association) slave of Abul Hasan Tana Shah. Malik Mishk held the office of secretary, commander and keeper of the royal key. His grave is situated near the eastern end of the old bridge in a spacious enclosure. He died in the year 1680 A.D. Adjacent to the mosque is the Caravan Serai. The masjid is close to Purana Pul and is massive like all Qutb Shahi mosques. LOCATION: NEAR PURANAPUL PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION: 1678 PURANAPUL DARWAZA “Today, no walls can separate humanitarian or human rights crises in one part of the world from national security crises in another. What begins with the failure to uphold the dignity of one life all too often ends with a calamity for entire nations.” - Kofi Annan Hyderabad was once surrounded by stone walls; after the conquest of Golconda by the Mughals, the walls were pulled down and new walls were constructed. A large portion of these walls was washed away in the 1908 floods; out of the 13 gates only Puranapul Darwaza and Dabeerpura Darwaza remain. 32 PERIOD LOCATION: MUSI RIVER OF CONSTRUCTION: 1550-1580 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 LOCATION: KHAIRATABAD PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION: UNKNOWN “Those that know, do. Those that understand, teach.”- Aristotle Khairati Begum’s Mosque or Khairatabad Mosque was built by Khairat-un-Nissa Begum, also known as Ma Saheba, daughter of Sultan Muhammad Qutb Shah, (1612 - 1626 AD). She built the mosque for her tutor Akhund Mulla Abul Malik. The mosque has a threearched opening in front. The main attraction of the mosque is the exquisite minarets. KHAIRATI BEGUM’S MOSQUE KHAIRATI BEGUM’S TOMB “Who shall declare his way to his face? and who shall repay him what he hath done? / Yet shall he be brought to the grave, and shall remain in the tomb.” - Bible The Tomb is adjacent to the Khairati Begum’s Mosque is unlike other tombs, it is without a grave. The tomb was built by the tutor himself, Akhund Mulla Abul Malik for self burial, but he died in Mecca and the dome remained vacant. LOCATION: KHAIRATABAD 33 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 UPPAL MOSQUE “Let mercy be your mosque, faith your prayer-mat, and honest living your Koran.” - Sri Guru Granth Sahib Uppal Mosque is located at Uppal Kalan, or Uppal or Pedda Uppal or Oopal or Upal, a Suburban city, Mandal and Municipality in Rangareddi district. The Uppal Municipality consists of Uppal, Ramanthapur and Habsiguda villages. It is located east of Hyderabad city on National Highway 202 (India) to Warangal and Northern bank of River Musi. Uppal Mosque has two minarets and the façade showcases three arches. The mosque was built during the reign of Abdullah Qutb Shah who was the son of Sultan Muhammad. Abdullah ascended the throne at the age of 12, his mother administering the kingdom till he attained majority. After a visit to Machilipatnam, Abdullah camped at Uppal on his way back to Hyderabad. PERIOD LOCATION: UPPAL KALAN CONSTRUCTION: 1626-1672 OF HAKIM’S TOMB MOSQUE AND “If you don’t know where you are going, any road will get you there.” - Lewis Carroll Built during the reign of Abdullah Qutb Shah in memory of his physician, this tomb and mosque is situated amidst trees in a calm setting with the walls also painted with the symbolic green. The Mosque and the sarai attached to it form a group that gives a rare feel of to the solace-seeker. It is perched on a hillock about five kilometers north-east of Golconda. 34 LOCATION: TOLI CHOWKI PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION: UNKNOWN HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 SHAMSHEER KOTHA “You can clutch the past so tightly to your chest that it leaves your arms too full to embrace the present.” - Jan Glidewell Situated to the east of Bala Hisar along the main road which passes through Fateh Darwaza and leads to the Balal Hisar Gate is Shamsheer Kotha. As the name suggests, the building was used for storage of arms like Swords, Guns, Muskets, cannon Balls and such like. Currently the department of archaeology has a priceless collection of weapons, mostly swords, bows and arrows, from the Moghul, Qutb shahi and Asaf Jahi periods. The architecture has all the signatures of the Qutb Shahi period with main arches and window arches on the façade. PERIOD LOCATION: GOLCONDA CONSTRUCTION: UNKNOWN OF SHAIKPET MOSQUE & SARAI “This art of resting the mind and the power of dismissing from it all care and worry is probably one of the secrets of energy in our great men.” - Captain J. A. Hadfield This mosque and sarai at the Shaikpet village near Golconda fort was built for travellers between Bombay in the west, and Machilipatnam in the east. The Sarais are examples of Qutb Shahi stucco work. The Mosque has two impeccable Qutb shahi architectural touched minarets and three arches on the facades overlooking the Shaikpet and Toli chowki commercial areas. PERIOD OF LOCATION: SHAIKPET CONSTRUCTION: 16TH CENTURY 35 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 ARMENIAN CEMETERY “The only real equality is in the cemetery” - German Proverb PERIOD LOCATION: UPPUGUDA OF CONSTRUCTION: UNKNOWN The first Armenian Church in Madras was built in 1712 but it fell into disuse due to British objection. The war in this region between the French and British in the 1780s had an impact on the Armenian colony of Madras. One section settled in Nigapatam and Seringapatam, while the other settled in Masulipatam, and the third remained in Madras. However, only a few families remained in this place by mid-19th century. According to 19 preserved tombstones bearing inscriptions in Armenian language, which were found in what is now known as Armenian Cemetery, in Hyderabad by Mesrovb Jacob Seth (the author of the book Armenians in India), it can be assumed that there was an Armenian colony here during the 17th-18th centuries. And the community was considerably large as among the tombstones there are two of Armenian priests. GUNFOUNDRY “We are the boys / That fear no noise / Where the thundering cannons roar.” Oliver Goldsmith Located opposite the Mahboobia Girls School in a narrow lane, Gunfoundry is the name given to the locale. It was home to several cannon and cannonball factories set up in 1786 by the French General, Monsieur Raymond. One can still see specimens of the cannons and cannonballs manufactured in the Gunfoundry, at the Public Gardens and various other places in Hyderabad, bearing inscriptions of their making. 36 LOCATION: GUNFOUNDRY(BESIDE NIZAM’S COLLEGE) PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION: 1786 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 KULSUM BEGUM MOSQUE “A son is a son till he takes him a wife, a daughter is a daughter all of her life.”Irish saying Easily distinguishable from its Qutb shahi style of architecture, this white-coloured mosque lying on the road from Golconda to Charminar in the Karwan area is near the Sabzimandi of Kulsumpura, where the locals call it the ‘Badi Masjid’. It is even popularly referred to as Kulsumpura Majid. A princess of the Qutb Shahi lineage, Kulsum Begum, the daughter of Muhammad Qutb Shah is said to have paid the entire cost of the building. Karwan is a major suburb and a part of the old city of Hyderabad. LOCATION: QULI QUTB SHAHI TOMBS PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION: UNKNOWN KHAZANA BUILDING “Difficulties strengthen the mind, as labor does the body.” - Seneca The youngest son of Sultan Quli Qutb Shah, Ibrahim Quli Qutb shah lived in exile as an honoured guest of the Raja of Vijayanagar. It was during this sojourn that he learnt to love Telugu. Mosques, schools, alms houses and the dam at Hussain Sagar, Budwel and Ibrahim Patnam were all to his credit. He built the Khazana Building as a part of strengthening and expansion of Golconda fort. It housed the royal treasure. PERIOD LOCATION: GOLCONDA OF CONSTRUCTION: UNKNOWN 37 137 HERITAGE BUILDINGS HAVE BEEN LISTED BY HUDA FOR ITS ARCHITECTURAL STYLE, PERIOD OF CONSTRUCTION AND HISTORICAL RELEVANCE. THESE BUILDINGS ARE REVIEWED EVER YEAR FOR ITS ELIGIBILITY IN THE LIST. THE SHEER ABILITY OF MOST OF THESE BUILDINGS TO WITHSTAND THE WINDS OF CHANGE AND THE TEST OF TIME MAKES THEM EVEN MORE WORTHY TO FIND A PLACE IN THE LIST. FALAKNUMA PALACE – MAIN PALACE HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 DEVDI NAZIR NAWAZ JUNG (CHIRAN FORT CLUB) “Let thy chief fort and place of defense be a mind free from passions. A stronger place and better fortified than this, hath no man” - Marcus Aelius Aurelius Located at Begumpet on the Sardar Patel Road, Secunderabad, the Chiran Fort Club is a part of the Palace constructed by Paigah Nawab Iqbal ud Dowla, Viqar ul Umra in the 1890’s. The Devdi in which the Club is housed is part of the Seven Palace, Begumpet Complex. The Chiran Fort Club occupies one half of the Devdi, the other half of which is retained by the descendents of Viqar ul Umra. It is the commendable efforts made by the present owners in retaining the grandeur and ambience associated with the building, which is worthy of appreciation. Although a few structures have come up in close proximity to the building, the main palace itself has not been interfered with. LOCATION: BEGUMPET ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: INDO-EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: PALACES AND COMPLEXES ERRUM MANZIL “If a man happens to find himself, he has a mansion which he can inhabit with dignity all the days of his life” - James A. Michener Errum Manzil or now known as Erra Manzil (paradise mansion in Persian) is an expansive palace built on a hillock by a nobleman, Nawab Safdar Jung Musheer-ud-daula Fakhrul Mulk of Hyderabad in 1870. It is built in the Indo-European Baroque style of architecture, the style adopted thousands of kilometers away from its origin. This palace was used for royal banquets and other grand events. LOCATION: PUNJAGUTTA ROAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: INDO-EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: PALACES AND COMPLEXES 81 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 KING KOTI COMPLEX “Hope is a flatterer, but the most upright of all parasites; for she frequents the poor man’s hut, as well as the palace of his superior” - William Shenstone The King Koti Complex was purchased for the young Mir Osman Ali Khan, the last Nizam, from a nobleman Kamal Khan; the young Nizam moved in when he was only 13. The Palace has its main buildings divided into two groups. The eastern half, is now a state government hospital.The western half has the main residential building known as Nazri Bagh or Mubarak Mansion and still belongs to the Nizam’s private estate. LOCATION: KOTI ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: COMPLEXES (MULTIPLE) The King Kothi complex has various European characteristic features: the canopies over windows, the intricate woodwork, the sloping tiled roofs in octagonal pyramid shapes of the Ghadial Gate complex, and the classical semicircular arches. MAHBOOB MANSION “Architecture is an art when one consciously or unconsciously creates aesthetic emotion in the atmosphere and when this environment produces well being” - Luis Barragan Mahboob Mansion is a palace, named after the 6th Nizam, Mahbub Ali Khan, Asaf Jah VI, who lived here occasionally. It is located in the Malakpet Gunj area of Hyderabad. Built in the late 19th century, this is a large palace in classical European and Mughal style architecture. It is similar to the eastern blocks of Mubarak Mansion of the King Kothi Palace. 82 LOCATION: MALAKPET ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: INDO-EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: PALACES & COMPLEXES HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 ASMANGARH PALACE “More varied than any landscape was the landscape in the sky, with islands of gold and silver, peninsulas of apricot and rose against a background of many shades of turquoise and azure” - Cecil Beaton Asman Garh Palace is located on the road from Malakpet to Dilsukhnagar. The name meaning, Asman for Sky, and Garh for home, the palace was designed personally and built by the Prime Minster of Hyderabad state Sir Asman Jah in 1885 on a hillock for leisure. He belonged to the Paigah family and fulfilled his dream of building a home close to the sky. LOCATION: OPPOSITE SALEEMNAGAR COLONY ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: PALACES AND COMPLEXES The design is based on Gothic architecture and is in the shape of a European medieval castle. The granite turrets and arched windows of Asman Garh palace stand out. The palace presently is converted into a school (St Joseph’s Public School, Asman Garh Palace branch). PURANI HAVELI COMPLEX “All architecture is great architecture after sunset; perhaps architecture is really a nocturnal art, like the art of fireworks” Gilbert K. Chesterton Also known as ‘Haveli Khadeem’, Purani Haveli (Old Palace) was built in 1777 by Mir Nizam Ali Khan, the Second Nizam, for his son Sikandar Jah. Purani Haveli is in 18th century European style of architecture. Its main building, has several interesting pieces of antique furniture. Mir Mahboob Ali Khan, the sixth Nizam, built an exquisite 240-feet long wooden wardrobe, arguably the longest in the world. LOCATION: PURANI HAVELI ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: PALACES AND COMPLEXES 83 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 GREENLANDS GUEST HOUSE “The greatest treasures are those invisible to the eye but found by the heart.” Greenlands Guest House (GGH) is a quaint European style building that never fails to attract the attention of passersby on the busy Begumpet-Raj Bhavan Road. With 14,000 sft area, it was in the limelight when the tourism department decided to demolish it and build a 5star hotel instead. But due to timely intervention, it was saved. The building built in the city Improvement Board style now houses the HMDA (Hyderabad Metropolitan Development Authority) office. LOCATION: GREENLANDS ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: CITY IMPROVEMENT BOARD STYLE TYPOLOGY: OTHER BUILDINGS DHANRAJGIRJI COMPLEX “Architecture has recorded the great ideas of the human race. Not only every religious symbol, but every human thought has its page in that vast book” - Victor Hugo Built in the middle of the 19th Century, Dhanrajgirji Complex is also known as Gyan Bagh Palace. Built by Raja Dhanrajgirji, it consists of two palatial structures in white marble connected by a colonnade. The exteriors of the building are in Palladian style. There are two formal courtyards with gardens, one in front of the main building and the other between the two buildings. 84 LOCATION: PANMANDI ROAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: PALACES AND COMPLEXES HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 BELLA VISTA (ADMINISTRATIVE STAFF COLLEGE OF INDIA) “To provide meaningful architecture is not to parody history but to articulate it” - Daniel Libeskind Bella Vista was the palace of the erstwhile Prince of Berar, Nawab Mir Himayat Ali Khan. A royal palace built in the year 1910, it was modeled on the Henley-on-Thames of England and is an Indo-European building standing on a 10 acre verdant campus. The building’s French architect christened it as Bella Vista, meaning beautiful sight, since it overlooked the Hussain sagar lake. LOCATION: NEAR RTA OFFICE, KHAIRATABAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: PALACES AND COMPLEXES Built in the Indo-European style, the building is characterised by its sweeping arches and perfect proportions. A conscious effort has been made to retain original decorations and finishes. It still has parquet (wooden) flooring in its major Halls, which were used as dance floors. The grounds are exceptionally well maintained and the building boasts of one of the best gardens of Hyderabad. It now houses the Administrative staff college of India. DIRECTORATE OF INDUSTRIES “You grow and learn a lot about the industry and what happens behind closed doors over the years” - Roy Ayers Previously known as the directorate of Industries, the heritage building now houses the Commissionerate of Industries and is a fine example of European architecture. It is believed to have been the palace of Nawab Muqarrab Jung, who officially worked in different capacities as Subedar of Aurangabad in 1873 and as Accountant General in 1887. The area is called Kooche Muqarrab Jung (The Lane of Muqarrab Jung). LOCATION: CHIRAG ALI LANE ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: INDO-EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: BUILDING WITH INTERNAL COURTYARD 85 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 NIZAM COLLEGE â€œEvery time a student walks past a really urgent, expressive piece of architecture that belongs to his college, it can help reassure him that he does have that mind, does have that soulâ€? Louis Kahn Nizam College was established in 1887 during the reign of Nawab Mir Mahaboob Ali Khan, Asaf Jah VI, in Hyderabad. It is located at Basheerbagh and was a palace of Fakhrul-ul-mulk II, a noble of Hyderabad. Its founder was the eminent Dr. Aghorenath Chattopadhyaya, DSc (Edin.). This college came into existence through the amalgamation of Hyderabad School (Nobel School) and Madrasa-I-Aliya . The institute 86 LOCATION: NIZAM COLLEGE ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: PALACES AND COMPLEXES is credited with being the first to impart education through English medium; first to admit a girl student for higher education; first to institute B.A.(Honors), B.Sc. and M.A. courses; first to introduce Bio-Physics as a special paper for M.Sc. (Physics) in 1974, and as an optional at the under-graduate level in 1990. The present building, a summer palace of Nawab Mulk Fakrul Bahadur, was a gift from him to the college. The present site where Nizam College is located was earlier called Asad Bagh which meant Lions Garden. It was also known as Moti Bagh, the garden of Jasmine, and even today the main college building wears its pristine look with the crest of the Unicorn. HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 MONTY’S HOTEL “The reason most people don’t express their individuality and actually deny it is not fear of what prime ministers think of them…… It’s what their families and their friends down at the bar are going to think of them” - David Icke Monty ’s Hotel, also known as Montgomery Hotel & Bar, currently has a functional bar only. The hotel was opened in Park Lane, Secunderabad during 1880-1890 for entertaining British officers. Its architecture is mainly European and Gothic. It has steep pitched roofs with wooden bracings and an imposing European façade. LOCATION: PARK LANE, SECUNDERABAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS PRINCESS ESIN WOMEN’S EDUCATIONAL CENTRE “Education is a human right with immense power to transform. On its foundation rest the cornerstones of freedom, democracy and sustainable human development” Kofi Annan Princess Esin Women’s Educational Centre is located on a sprawling campus of 11282 sq.yards belonging to Nizamia Hyderabad Women’s Association Trust (NHWAT). The Centre was established in 1973 to serve the educational needs of women. Located within the Purani Haveli, the Madare-Deccan Pavilion and Zanana Mahal Complex are the most impressive. LOCATION: PURANI HAVELI ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: BUILDING WITH INTERNAL COURTYARD 87 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 I PRAKASH BUILDING “Business, more than any other occupation, is a continual dealing with the future; it is a continual calculation, an instinctive exercise in foresight” Henry R. Luce This building was the residence of one Sri Inder Prakash and located in Shivaji Nagar, behind the old jail of Secunderabad. A leading businessman of Secunderabad during his time, the building is said to be more than 100 years old. It is a two storied building with projected balconies, vast iron railings, wooden brackets and all representing a vernacular style with beautiful proportions and details. LOCATION: SHIVAJI NAGAR ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: VERNACULAR TYPOLOGY: SMALLER BUILDINGS IN A ROW A. MAJEED KHAN’S RESIDENCE “There is nothing better than that a man should rejoice in his own works, for that is his heritage” - Bible This residence is situated on the road leading to Dabirpura and is near Purani Haveli. The house which is named as ‘Bait-ush-Shifu’ was the residence of one royal Tabeeb (Indian medicine doctor), Imtiazuddin. Later, another famous Hakeem, Mohmd-urRehman also used to live in this house on rent. The house is more than hundred years old. In olden days, during Muharram, Alum’s were installed here, hence the building served the purpose of an Ashoor Khana. 88 LOCATION: PURANI HAVELI ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: OTHER TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 STATE ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM “The best museums and museum exhibits about science or technology give you the feeling that, hey, this is interesting, but maybe I could do something here, too” - Paul Allen The AP State Museum in Hyderabad is the oldest and one of the finest museums in the state. The Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan created the Department of Archaeology in the year 1915 and a museum was set up in 1930 to store its collections. It was then known as the Hyderabad Museum. Finally in the year 1968 the name of the museum was changed to AP State Museum. The building of the museum is itself very impressive, standing as an embodiment of the Indo Saracenic style of architecture and was built by the Nizam himself in the year 1928. LOCATION: PUBLIC GARDEN ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: REGIONAL MUGHAL VARIATION TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS The museum’s main attraction is its Egyptian mummy, which was brought to Hyderabad as a gift to the Nizam. LADY HYDARI CLUB “A lady’s imagination is very rapid; it jumps from admiration to love, from love to matrimony in a moment” - Jane Austen Lady Hydari, the wife of the Nizam’s Prime Minister Sir Akbar Hydari, is commemorated by The Lady Hydari Club. It was started in 1901 as the Hyderabad Ladies’ Association Club, through the combined efforts of Lady Hydari, Lady Casson Walker, Begum Khedive Jung and Lady Glancy to enable English and Indian ladies to meet with equality and mutual respect. The single storied building has excellent architectural style with Asaf Jahi arches and columns. LOCATION: BASHEERBAGH ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: REGIONAL MUGHAL VARIATION TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS 89 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 MOAZZAM JAHI MARKET “Fortune is like the market, where, many times, if you can stay a little, the price will fall” - Francis Bacon This market place was constructed in 1935 during the reign of the last Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan, and was given the name Moazzam Jahi Market after the Nizam’s second son, Nawab Moazzam Jah Bahadur. The building sits on a triangular site and the three octagonal towers define the three corners. The tower near the main road junction is the tallest having a pavillion at the top. The remains of an old water supply system need to be incorporated in the conservation master plan. LOCATION: MALA KUNTA ROAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: CITY IMPROVEMENT BOARD TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS The market building which completed its construction in 1935 was inaugurated by Mir Osman Ali Khan. The Moazzam Jahi Market building is a great landmark of Hyderabad even today, and the main landmark is built entirely in stone. AIWAN-E-ALI “Every ceremony or rite has a value if it is performed without alteration. A ceremony is a book in which a great deal is written. Anyone who understands can read it. One rite often contains more than a hundred books” - G. I. Gurdjieff Diwan Khana-e-Aliya, popularly known as Aiwan-e-Ali, was the office of Sarf-e-Khas (Privy purse). Inside the main gate stands the magnificent palace structure built along with other Chowmahalla palaces, probably during the period of Nizam - II (1763-1803 AD). The palace is built in Moghal architectural style. 90 LOCATION: PRESENT SETWIN OFFICE, KHILWAT ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: REGIONAL MUGHAL VARIATION TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 VICTORIA MATERNITY HOSPITAL “Abolition of a woman’s right to abortion, when and if she wants it, amounts to compulsory maternity: a form of rape by the State” - Edward Abbey The Asif Jahi’s of erstwhile Hyderabad Deccan have always been pioneers in establishing medical institutions; the Victoria Zanana Hospital presently known as Government Maternity Hospital is one example. LOCATION: AFZAL GUNJ BRIDGE (WEST) ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: CITY IMPROVEMENT BOARD TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS The Victoria Zanana Hospital was founded in 1902 in memory of the first empress of India, Queen Victoria. The hospital was rebuilt in 1911, during the reign of the 7th Nizam, after it was partially destroyed by the 1908 floods. New sections have been added in this hospital. The old buildings of the hospital have Moghal architecture and small domes on the top. Formerly, the land of the hospital was the property of a minister of the Qutb Shahis, whose name was Ameen-ul-Mulk, which is the reason many from the older generation still call it Ameen Bagh Hospital. VILAYAT MANZIL “The mother art is architecture. Without architecture of our own we have no soul of our own civilization” - Frank Lloyd Wright Vilayat Manzil was the property of the Nawab Vilayat Jung Wali-udDaula, son of the Prime Minister of Hyderabad state, Sir Vicar-ul-Umra. The palace has two wings, one constructed during 1910-1913, and the other during 1920-1925. The building is a striking exemplar of Indo-European style of architecture, with sloping roofs topped with lime plaster and with battlements as a part of the structure, also a Paigah speciality. LOCATION: BEGUMPET ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS 91 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 ANDHRA PATRIKA BUILDING “News is important information that may influence your investments. Noise is talk or buzz or some headline that prevents you from seeing a story clearly. News is useful. Noise is a distraction. Calling what’s noise and news after the fact is easy” - Maria Bartiromo The building was used as the office of the Jagir administrator and later occupied by ‘Andhra Patrika’ news magazine. It is now used for the Institution of AP Lok Ayukta and Upa Lok Ayukta. LOCATION: BASHEERBAGH ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS Situated on a high terrace on the Basheerbagh Road, the front portion of the building is divided into three portions. The central part contains a big open verandah stretching from east to west, while on the two sides of the verandah are two halls with big wooden windows in a projected wall facing the road. The building has a simple European façade with iconic columns. This was originally an old building renovated by the City Improvement Board in the 1930s and used as a guest-house. HOMEOPATHIC HOSPITAL “Medicine, the only profession that labors incessantly to destroy the reason for its existence” - James Bryce In the Old City, the homeopathic Hospital is housed in an old palace of the Nizam called ‘Moti Mahal’ or ‘Khushnuma Building’. The building is more than 100 years old, stretching from Moti Galli on one side to Mahboob chowk on the other. For 25 years it was used as the Indian Medicine Department, but in 1969 it was turned into a Homeopathic Hospital. Currently the hospital has been shifted and it is used as a function hall. 92 LOCATION: MAHBOOB CHOWK, MOTIGALLI ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 SARDAR MAHAL “Noble life demands a noble architecture for noble uses of noble men. Lack of culture means what it has always meant: ignoble civilization and therefore imminent downfall” - Frank Lloyd Wright The Sardar Mahal was built in European style by Nizam VI Mir Mahboob Ali Khan in 1900 for one of his favourite wives, Sardar Begum. The building subsequently took her name. The Mahal, in which the Nizam stayed for a brief while, was initially given on rent to the Charminar Unani Hospital and later the City Civil Court operated out of it. However, in 1962, the erstwhile MCH bought it and set up a permanent base there. LOCATION: NEAR CHARMINAR ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: INDO-EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS The Mahal which currently houses Greater Hyderabad Municipal Corporation (GHMC) south zone office will soon be converted into a heritage museum by the department of tourism as part of the Charminar pedestrianisation project (CPP). The Mahal is planned to be restored to its former glory at a cost of Rs 2.5 crore. NIZAM CLUB “Sense shines with a double luster when it is set in humility. An able yet humble man is a jewel worth a kingdom” - William Penn Considered to be a jewel in the crown of 400 years old Hyderabad, the Nizam Club has already completed 100 years. The club was established by the sixth Nizam, Nawab Mir Mahboob Ali Khan Bahadur as an alternative to the Secunderabad Club. Thus, Nizam Club came into existence on September 26, 1884. The club was initially housed at the Abid Centre, and was shifted to its present location opposite the Assembly in 1906. LOCATION: OPP. LEGISLATIVE ASSEMBLY, SAIFABAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: INDO-EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: OTHER BUILDINGS 93 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 DEVDI MAHARAJA KISHAN PERSHAD BAHADUR “Poetry is certainly something more than good sense, but it must be good sense, just as a palace is more than a house, but it must be a house” - Samuel Taylor Coleridge Maharaja Kishan Pershad Bahadur’s palace was near Shah Ali Banda, about a mile to the South of Charminar. The original palace was constructed by Maharaja Chandulal, Mader-ul-Meham and great grandfather of Maharaja Kishan Pershad (1802). Maharaja Kishan Pershad also made many additions to this palace. Jilu Khana (ante-chamber) was specially decorated during the Muharrum period and towards the east was Aina Khana (Mirror Hall). It currently houses a maternity hospital. LOCATION : SHAH ALI BANDA ARCHITECTURAL STYLE : EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY : INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS TOMB OF FAKHAR UL MULK “Let there be no inscription upon my tomb; let no man write my epitaph: no man can write my epitaph” - Robert Emmet The Tomb of Nawab Fakhar ul Mulk is indeed a monument built with delicate taste of architecture. Before their death, both Nawab Fakhr-ulMulk and his wife took keen interest in the construction of this tomb area, which is made of granite stone. The front portion is provided with an iron gate. In the rear part, there is a big courtyard. It is the burial-ground where Nawab Fakhr-ul-Mulk, his wife and relatives are buried. 94 LOCATION: SANATHNAGAR ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: CITY IMPROVEMENT BOARD TYPOLOGY: RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 VIJAY MARIE CHURCH “The ordinary ministry is that which receives all of its direction from the will of God revealed in the Scriptures and from those means which God has appointed in the church for its continual edification” William Ames The Vijay Marie Church was originally a small Chapel built by Fr. Malberti in 1903, costing Rs. 3,500. The present church was built under the then St. Joseph’s Cathedral’s Assistant Parish Priest, Fr. Xavier Roch, much later in 1954 - when the seventh Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan laid the foundation. The Italy-made resplendent statuette of Mother Mary with Jesus in her arms which was brought by Fr. Malberti for the original chapel is a unique aspect of the church. LOCATION: KHAIRATABAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: OTHER TYPOLOGY: RELIGIOUS BUILDING It is presumably the world’s first octagonal church. The main altar is at the geometric centre of the church that enables people to participate in the Holy Mass from anywhere around it.The chruch was also known as ‘Our Lady of Health Church’. SAMADHI PURANMAL “No great work has ever been produced except after a long interval of still and musing meditation” - Walter Bagehot Seth Puranmalji was the contemporary of Maharaja Chandulal, the Prime Minister of Hyderabad, during the reign of the Nizam -IV, Nawab Mir Nasiruddoula. He raised a beautiful garden at Asifnagar wherein he built two closely situated domed pavilions and open stair-cases. The samadhi of Puranmalji is believed to have been built around 1850, located near Sitaram Bagh on the Asifnagar Road. LOCATION: SITARAM BAGH ROAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: INDO-EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: RELIGIOUS BUILDING 95 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 SAINT JOSEPH’S CATHEDRAL “We say nothing essential about the cathedral when we speak of its stones. We say nothing essential about Man when we seek to define him by the qualities of men” - Antoine de SaintExupery St Joseph’s is a Roman Catholic Cathedral, located at Gunfoundry, north of Abids and King Koti, and is the cathedral of the Archdiocese of Hyderabad. LOCATION: GUNFOUNDRY ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS Established in the year 1820, the construction of the present structure began in 1869 when Fr. Antonio Tagliabue, bought an extensive plot of land near Chaderghaat, to build a school, a church and a convent. Msgr. Pietro Caprotti, laid its foundation on 18th March 1870 and Fr. Luigi Malberti, took charge in 1872 and completed the main building which was consecrated and opened for divine worship on Christmas Eve of 1875. The façade and the belltowers were completed in 1891; the bells, imported from Italy, were installed in 1892. PARSI FIRE TEMPLE “Where there is no temple there shall be no homes” - T. S. Elliot The Bai Maneckbai Nusserwanji Chenoy Fire Temple on Tilak Road, near Abids, is now more than 100 years old. Built by the famous Chenoy family in 1904, the temple is a simple brick-and-lime mortar structure but a classic example of the European style of architecture. The maintenance of the building has been very good; the facade looks impressive with four sets of Doric pillars supporting the Madras roof and the stairway bordered by curved sidewalls. 96 LOCATION: TILAK ROAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 AZHA KHANA-E-ZEHRA “Mother is the name for God in the lips and hearts of little children” - William Makepeace Thackeray After the death of Zahra Begum, the mother of Nawab Mir Osman Ali Khan, the Nizam-VII, the Azha Khana-e-Zahra was constructed in the locality of Darush-Shifa on the bank of the river Musi. The Ashur Khana was constructed around the year 1942. It was named Azha Khan-e-Zahra after his mother’s name. It is magnificent from both outside and inside, and is divided into three parts. From the main door to the Ashur Khana, there is a big courtyard. Just before the main LOCATION: DARUSH-SHIFA ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: CITY IMPROVEMENT BOARD TYPOLOGY: RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS door, there is a platform over a terrace where holy Alams are erected. The Azha Khana is so extensive that it provides seating accommodation for 10,000 people at a time. It is decorated with chandeliers and fluorescent lights. Over the main gate is a clock on which a black flag always unfurls, indicating the name Azha Khana Zahra. This building has a separate trust for its maintenance and is listed for its architectural value. 97 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 MEHBOOB CHOWK MOSQUE “There is a powerful need for symbolism, and that means the architecture must have something that appeals to the human heart” - Kenzo Tange The Mehboob Chowk, a torpid looking quadrangle with an imposing tower in the middle, marks the end of Lad Bazaar. The green and white Chowk Mosque, standing nearby, on a high platform imposes Mughal styles. The mosque was constructed by Khwaja Abdullah Khan in 1817. It is a fine mosque built on an elevated area; the tower and the mosque are important landmarks of the Old City. LOCATION: MAHABOOB CHOWK ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: NEO QUTB SHAHI TYPOLOGY: RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS The bustling Lad Bazaar operates around this chowk; things such as the black metalware and woodcrafted articles which are sold in the Lad Bazaar are designed and made at this Chowk. The recesses around the platform below the Chowk Mosque are filled with various workshops and vendors. MAHARAJA CHANDULAL TEMPLE “The entire world is my temple, and a very fine one too, if I’m not mistaken, and I’ll never lack priests to serve it as long as there are men” - Desiderius Erasmus Situated in Alwal, this magnificent temple of Lord Venkateswara was constructed by Maharaja Chandulal (1776-1845). In the same compound there are temples of other deities. The enclosure of the temple is surmounted by a gopuram as high as 40 feet. The ‘sanctum sanctorum’ is gold plated from the ground level to the top is gold-plated. The temple is a fine example of Hindu architecture. 98 LOCATION: ALWAL ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: TEMPLE DESIGN TYPOLOGY: RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 CLOCK TOWER FATEH MAIDAN “The clock never stops, never stops, never waits. We’re growing old. It’s getting late” - Ben Folds The foundation stone of this Clock Tower was laid by Nawab Zafar Jung Bahadur (Nawab Shams-ul-Mulk), the minister for defense in the Nizam State. This foundation was laid in 1904 at Fateh Maidan on the occasion of the Golden Jubilee of the Nizam-VI. It is a landmark of the city today. LOCATION: FATEH MAIDAN ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: MONUMENTAL STRUCTURE KISHAN BAGH TEMPLE Typology: Religious Building “Your daily life is your temple and your religion. When you enter into it take with you your all” - Kahlil Gibran Dedicated to Lord Krishna, this temple is situated at Bahadurpura, near Zoological Gardens. It was built sometime in 1820 by Raja Raghuram, who was the Vakil (Ambassador) of different Samasthans or petty principalities under the Nizam. The temple architecture is Dravidian and has a tower well adorned with sculptures which gets progressively smaller with each storey. LOCATION: BAHADURPURA ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: TEMPLE DESIGN TYPOLOGY: RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS 99 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 CLOCK TOWER MEHBOOB CHOWK “Trying to determine what is going on in the world by reading newspapers is like trying to tell the time by watching the second hand of a clock” - Ben Hecht In front of the mosque at Mahboob Chowk is the five-storied building of the Clock Tower, which was constructed by Nawab Sir Asman Jah Bahadur in a park in 1850. The works were completed in 1852 and in the same year the clock was fixed to the tower. To the 100 LOCATION: MAHBOOB CHOWK ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: INDO-EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: MONUMENTAL STRUCTURE south of the tower is a market, which was built by Sir Salar Jung-I. Before the construction of the market, there was a mansion of a noble, Sahebzada SharfudDoula, and some shops which were taken over by Salar Jung-I. HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 GATE PORTION SHAMRAJ BAHADUR “I believe the future is only the past again, entered through another gate” Arthur W. Pinero Raja Roy Rayan Bahadur also known as Rai-i-Rayan Shamraj Bahadur was the daftardar (Revenue officer) in the erstwhile court of the Nizam of Hyderabad; he was a Marathi Deshastha Brahmin. He constructed a big gate in the front portion of his palace in 1904 and a big clock was fixed over it in the same year. The palace is situated near Shah Ali Banda and now only the front portion of the building with the clock tower remains. It is in the shape of a minaret with a small dome over it. The palace is already damaged and partitioned into several portions. LOCATION: SHAH ALI BANDA ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: INDO-EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: MONUMENTAL STRUCTURE MALWALA PALACE “The road to excess leads to the palace of wisdom... for we never know what is enough until we know what is more than enough” - William Blake Built in 1845 by Raja Ram Pershad Lal Bahadur, it used to be one of the palaces that cluster around Charminar. It had two courtyards. Architecturally unique, it was constructed in Mughal & Rajasthani style and in Hyderabadi courtyard style. It is known for its richly carved wooden pavilion. Later, Raja Shivraj Bahadur expanded the palace. LOCATION: KOTLA ALI JAH ROAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: RMV & EUROPEAN STYLE TYPOLOGY: BUILDINGS WITH INTERNAL COURTYARD 101 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 D. LAKSHMAIAH’S RESIDENCE “A house must be built on solid foundations if it is to last. The same principle applies to man, otherwise he too will sink back into the soft ground and become swallowed up by the world of illusion” - Sai Baba The residence of Shri D Lakshmaiah is situated in a small bylane of Shivaji Nagar very near to Doklamma Gudi (Temple). Mr Lakshmaiah was the son of Shri Govind Raj, who had constructed the building more than 50 years ago. It is a double storey building with a parapet supported by iron railings and wooden brackets. The façade is ornate, with beautiful ‘pilasters’ (a slightly-projecting column built into or applied to the face of a wall, commonly flat or rectangular in form) and window details executed in lime mortar. LOCATION: SHIVAJI NAGAR ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: VERNACULAR TYPOLOGY: SMALL BUILDINGS IN A ROW D. PENTAIAH’S RESIDENCE “My house is my refuge, an emotional piece of architecture, not a cold piece of convenience” - Luis Barragan The residence of D Pentaiah is located at Burgu Chatti Bazar at Shivaji Nagar in a lane opposite to the Old Jail Building of Secunderabad. Pentaiah was an influential landlord of Secunderabad. He was also a member of the Board of Secunderabad. He built the house more than 60 years ago. The façade of the house has wooden structure with conical shapes in the centre, cast iron railings and wood carvings. 102 LOCATION: SHIVAJI NAGAR ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: VERNACULAR TYPOLOGY: SMALL BUILDINGS IN A ROW HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 JAWAHAR BAL BHAVAN “Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn’t pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same” - Ronald Reagan The Jawahar Bal Bhavan is situated inside the high walls of the Public Garden. The bhavan is a mini school where children can take les- LOCATION: PUBLIC GARDENS ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: CITY IMPROVEMENT BOARD TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS sons in fine arts activities and entertainment. It has a swimming pool, a library, an aviary and various toys and objects of educational interest. 103 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 LAKSHMI PAPER MART BUILDING “Travelling is the ruin of all happiness! There’s no looking at a building after seeing Italy” - Fanny Burney This building belongs to the Malani Family and is more than 80 years old. The two-storied building is rented to Laxmi Paper Mart and other businessmen. The Malani Family also runs its business here. The front portion on the first floor facing the road is provided with iron railings. The central part has a semi-circular arch with conical roofs on the sides. LOCATION: M.G ROAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: VERNACULAR TYPOLOGY: SMALL BUILDINGS IN A ROW MOHANLAL MALANI’S RESIDENCE “A man travels the world in search of what he needs and returns home to find it” George Edward Moore This two-storied building is situated near the police station at James Street. The façade of the building is composed of a network of wooden arches in light blue colour, below which are iron bars in white colour supported by wooden structure. LOCATION: M.G ROAD, SECUNDERABAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: VERNACULAR TYPOLOGY: SMALL BUILDINGS IN A ROW 104 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 RAZA ALI BUNGALOW “To be happy at home is the ultimate result of all ambition, the end to which every enterprise and labor tends, and of which every desire prompts the prosecution” - Samuel Johnson After crossing the railway bridge near Thuggi Jail, to the east lies the Raza Ali Bungalow. Situated on a high platform, it extends towards the east-west direction and measures about 100 feet in length. The bungalow can be reached from either side by a flight of steps, about 10 to 15 in number. The façade has pointed arcades, projected windows and wooden roofs over the verandas. LOCATION: NEAR THUGGI JAIL, UPPAL ROAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: INDO-EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: SMALL BUILDINGS IN A ROW NANU BHAI G.SHAH’S BUILDING “Architecture is the learned game, correct and magnificent, of forms assembled in the light” - Le Corbusier Nanu Bhai G Shah’s Building is also known as Raja Sukhdev Pershad Building. Situated near the Jain Temple of Sultan Bazar, it is a double storied building, constructed more than 80 years ago in the typical Rajasthani style with rounded columns and iron railings on the first and ground floors. LOCATION: SULTAN BAZAAR ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: VERNACULAR TYPOLOGY: SMALL BUILDINGS IN A ROW 105 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 KHUSRO MANZIL “On a level plain, simple mounds look like hills; and the insipid flatness of our present bourgeoisie is to be measured by the altitude of its great intellects” - Karl Marx Nawab Khusro Jung Bahadur was the son of Major General Nawab Sir Afsur-ul-Mulk Bahadur, Chief Commander of Regular Forces in Hyderabad State during the period of the Nizam-VI. Thus, Nawab Khusro Jung hailed from one of the 106 LOCATION: A.C GUARDS ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: INDO-EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDING most prominent families of the Nizam’s state. He died in 1930. The building situated on a hillock between Lakdi-ka-pul and Masab Tank was constructed in 1920. It is divided into several rooms and was housing the Census Department. It has a façade in European style and a flight of steps leading to the high platform. HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 RAJA BHAGWANDAS BUILDING “The way of architecture is the quiet voice that underlies it and has guided it from the beginning” - Arthur Erickson Sultan Bazaar is one of the oldest bazaars to be steeped in history; it has its own attraction judging by the people who throng the place throughout the day. Amid all the chaos, two buildings— Raja Sukhdev Pershad Building and Raja Bhagwandas Building stand out on either side of the Jain Temple, famous for their Rajasthani style of architecture. These two still survive thanks to their listing as heritage buildings. Raja Bhagwandas Building is three-storied and much bigger in size. Notwithstanding 20-odd tenants, it is in a dilapidated state. But a significant feature is the way the entire building looks like it is leaning onto the road. LOCATION: SULTAN BAZAAR ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: VERNACULAR TYPOLOGY: SMALL BUILDINGS IN A ROW FACADE - BAITUL GHOUS “The job of buildings is to improve human relations: architecture must ease them, not make them worse” - Ralph Erskine The façade has three similar projected verandas in the vernacular style. The building is more than 85 years old and the first floor verandahs have pointed and ornamental wooden roofs. LOCATION: MOZAMJAHI MARKET ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: VERNACULAR TYPOLOGY: SMALL BUILDINGS IN A ROW 107 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 GOSHAMAHAL BARADARI “God the Father, the supreme Architect, had already built this cosmic home we behold, the most sacred temple of His godhead, by the laws of His mysterious wisdom” - Giovanni Pico della Mirandola The British brought in freemasonry (Freemasonry is a fraternal organisation that arose from obscure origins in the late 16th to early 17th century), to Hyderabad 120 years ago in 1872 when the St. Johns Lodge met regularly. Almost at the same time, the Mayo lodge also met here. The Nizam of Hyderabad donated a building to permanently house the movement in Goshamahal Baradari, where even today several lodges function. LOCATION: GOSHAMAHAL, BEGUM BAZAAR ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: QUTB SHAHI TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDING The Goshamahal Baradari is more than a grand old structure that symbolizes the evolution of Freemasons in Hyderabad. More than 300 years old, this structure with its massive, majestic balustrades, walls adorned by portraits and photographs of Freemasons in their regalia and an equally lavish banquet hall, is today the oldest Masonic temple in the country. FAÇADE - HIFAZATH HUSSAIN “Architecture tends to consume everything else, it has become one’s entire life” - Arne Jacobsen This building is situated opposite Osman Gunj. The three-storied building is more than 85 years old. On the second and third floors, which have small balconies in the front, there are vertical iron structures separated from each other with a long wooden framework. On the top floor is a wooden pointed arch like roof divided into four wooden arches covering the verandah. 108 LOCATION: OPPOSITE OSMAN GUNJ ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: VERNACULAR TYPOLOGY: SMALL BUILDINGS IN A ROW HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 SHYAM RAO CHUNGI’S RESIDENCE “He is happiest, be he king or peasant, who finds peace in his home” - Johann Wolfgang von Goethe This house is built in a vast open space at Padmarao Nagar, also known as Walker ’s Town, in Secunderabad. The front portion of the building has a portico. It has a LOCATION: PADMARAO NAGAR ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: INDO-EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDING castle-like feel and was constructed in European style with battlement like parapets. Probably this building was occupied by a British officer, during the Asaf Jahi period, when Secunderabad was a cantonment area. 109 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 YOUSUF TEKHRI “Territory is but the body of a nation. The people who inhabit its hills and valleys are its soul, its spirit, its life” - James A. Garfield On the Toli Chowki Road leading to the Golconda Fort lies this magnificent building on a hill. There are large open areas on either side of it. The building was owned in the past by the Subedar of Gulburga, Nawab Yousufuddin Khan, who lived during the period of the NizamVI, Nawab Mir Mahboob Ali Khan Bahadur (1866-1911). As it is on a hill, the building is called Yousuf Tekhri (Hillock). LOCATION: TOLI CHOWKI ROAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: OTHER TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDING ASMAN MAHAL “You can’t put your feet on the ground until you’ve touched the sky” - Paul Auster The actual name of the building, which is situated on a hillock across Lakdi-ka-pul, was Mumtaz Mansion, after the name of Mumtaz yar-udDoula, the son-in-law of Nawab Afsrul-Mulk. It is believed to have been constructed in 1911. It has pointed arches and domes and is listed for its architectural value. It is believed that the name Asman Mahal is probably derived from a movie of the same name released in 1964. 110 LOCATION: LAKDI-KA-PUL ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: INDO-EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDING HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 DEVDI BANSILAL “Home is any four walls that enclose the right person” - Helen Rowland Also known as the Raja Moti Lal Bansilal Bungalow, this building has an interesting façade and was constructed under the supervision of Nawab Mehdi Nawaz Jung in the year 1930, during the time of Raja Bahadur Sir Bansilal Motilal. It was later owned by his descendents, the Pitti family. LOCATION: BEGUM BAZAR ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: VERNACULAR TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS DEVDI IMAAD JUNG BAHADUR “When you’re safe at home you wish you were having an adventure; when you’re having an adventure you wish you were safe at home” - Thornton Wilder The old Fine Arts College was the Devdi of Imad Jung Bahadur, brother of Sir Nizamath Jung Bahadur. It was built during 1890-1895. The building was constructed in western style with a raised main floor having a classical façade consisting of semi-circular arches and a colonnade. LOCATION: GUNFOUNDRY ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDING 111 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 DILKUSHA GUEST HOUSE “Death most resembles a prophet who is without honor in his own land or a poet who is a stranger among his people” - Kahlil Gibran Dilkusha was the residence of Sir Akbar Hydari, a civil servant in British India and Prime Minister of Hyderabad in 1940s. Since 1905 he 112 LOCATION: RAJ BHAVAN ROAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDING lived in this building till his death. This guest-house has a simple European façade and is located next to the Raj Bhavan. It overlooked the Hussain Sagar Lake and had a beautiful rock garden at the back. HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 MAHBOOBIA GIRLS HIGH SCHOOL & JUNIOR COLLEGE “Education is simply the soul of a society as it passes from one generation to another” - Gilbert K. Chesterton An Arzdasht (request) to His Highness the Nizam for sanctioning a grant for a girls’ school, resulted in the school forming in February 1907. Originally it was named the New Zenana School, which was later changed to Mahboobia when the then Nizam, Mir Mahboob Ali Khan consented that it bear his name. This building originally consisted of the central hall with three small rooms on either side. Later on, the South wing and the North wing came up due to the increasing numbers. The new block was constructed in 1960 when it became a Higher Secondary School. LOCATION: GUNFOUNDRY ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: ASAF JAHI MADRAASA-E-ALIYA “The education of the will is the object of our existence.” - Ralph Waldo Emerson The Aliya school and the college were once considered the best institutions in the city. The school was first set up by seventh Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan on the premises and the junior college was established later during the post-independence era. Aliya School and Junior College are for boys. Aliya and Mahboobia institutions — with the available infrastructural facilities — are providing education to thousands of poor students. LOCATION: GUNFOUNDRY ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: ASAF JAHI 113 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 REDDY HOSTEL “An education isn’t how much you have committed to memory, or even how much you know. It’s being able to differentiate between what you know and what you don’t” - Anatole France The Raja Bahadur Venkata Rama Reddy Educational Society was established in the year 1918 by a great visionary Late Raja Bahadur Venkata Rama Reddy, the then Commissioner of Police during the days of the Nizam of Hyderabad. Reddy Hostel has completed 90 yrs of existence. As a mark of its glorious service to the society, the Board of Management of the Educational Society celebrated Platinum Jubilee Celebration in 1994. LOCATION: ABIDS ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: OTHER TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDING The RBVR Reddy Boys Hostel today has 155 rooms which accommodate 450 Boys. Along with education for boys, the need for establishing a Hostel for Girls also was felt by Raja Bahadur Reddy, and a Girls hostel was started in the year 1933. Today the Girls Hostel accommodates about 225 Girls. PREM CHAND’S RESIDENCE “All through history, there have always been movements where business was not just about the accumulation of proceeds but also for the public good” - Anita Roddick Prem Chand Aggarwal, a businessman from Secunderabad, purchased this building, which was constructed in 1925, from a Nawab. The building is quite grandiose, facing the new Arts & Science College, Secunderabad, on the other side of the road. 114 LOCATION: S.P ROAD, SECUNDERABAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: INDO-EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDING HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 COLLEGE OF NURSING “Difficulty, my brethren, is the nurse of greatness - a harsh nurse, who roughly rocks her foster children into strength and athletic proportion” - William C. Bryant The College of Nursing is on the Raj Bhavan Road adjacent to Dilkusha Guest House. The college functions through two places: while one wing of the college is on the Raj Bhavan Road, known as LOCATION: RAJ BHAVAN ROAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: REGIONAL MUGHAL VARIATION TYPOLOGY: SMALLER INDIVIDUAL BUILDING Vijay Housing Building, which trains girls in nursing, the other wing functions in the Osmania General Hospital, supervising the lecturers’ training in practical courses of nursing. The Raj Bhavan, the Lake View Guest House and the College of Nursing are all situated in one line. 115 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 BAITUL ASHRAF “It makes you feel at home when you can talk to somebody and really talk about anything” - Eddie Murray Near Niloufer Hospital and the Agha Khan Hostel, Baitul Ashraf was a two-storied house that belong to a poet named Dr Ashraf. It is situated on an elevated platform in European style and is believed to be more than 100 years old. The house has a Georgian façade with lofty columns approached by a wide flight of steps. It is currently being used as a function hall. LOCATION: LAKDI-KA-PUL ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDING RAJ BHAVANOLD BUILDING “Government exists to protect us from each other. Where government has gone beyond its limits is in deciding to protect us from ourselves” - Ronald Reagan Designed and constructed in 1936 by a French architect, the main house of Raj Bhavan has load bearing brick construction with jack arched roof slabs; with a deliberate but innovative attempt to flatten the ceiling using Chicken mesh reinforcement for the lime mortar filling below the curved surface. The building has survived more than 6 decades in excellent structural condition. 116 LOCATION: RAJ BHAVAN ROAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: INDO-EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDING HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 PARWARISH BAGH “Love and freedom are vital to the creation and upbringing of a child” Sylvia Pankhurst The Parwarish Bagh was the property of Nawab Moin-ud-Doula, a Paigah noble. It actually belongs to the first wife of the noble, Mahboob-ul-nisa Begum. The name Parwarish Bagh for the property is from Parwarish-ulnisa Begum, the wife of Nawab Asman Jah Nawab Bashir-ud-Doula Bahadur, who was born in 1841. Hence, it is more than 100 years old. Outside, there is a huge gate which leads to the palace complex. The façade has a series of semi-circular doors and lantern-type parapets on the roof in European style. It is listed for its architectural style. LOCATION : LINGAMPALLY ARCHITECTURAL STYLE : INDO-EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY : INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS PANJ MAHALLA “Architecture is an art when one consciously or unconsciously creates aesthetic emotion in the atmosphere and when this environment produces well being” - Luis Barragan Owned by the Nawab of Machli Bunder, the buildings have a long façade with canopied windows. There are a number of buildings found inside the Panj Mahalla compound. LOCATION : LINGAMPALLY ARCHITECTURAL STYLE : INDO-EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY : INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS 117 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 MINI BAL BHAVAN “Your children are not your children. They are the sons and daughters of Life’s longing for itself. They came through you but not from you and though they are with you yet they belong not to you” Kahlil Gibran The Public Garden, also known as Bagh-e-Aam, is located in the heart ofthe city near Fateh Maidan and is the largest city garden in India. The site forthe Public Garden was acquired by the Nizam’s Government in 1864 from RajaBalakrishna on the advice of Salar Jung I. The Public Garden was laid during the period of the Nizam-VI, Nawab Mir Mahboob Ali Khan, in 118 LOCATION: PUBLIC GARDEN ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: OTHER TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS 1872. In the same year, an iron bungalow was shifted from Farhath Mahal, a palace of the Nizam, to the Public Gardens. Known as Mini-Bal Bhavan, it is a small bungalow consisting of deep verandas on all four sides and has excellent cast iron jalli work and a metal roof, somewhat in the Jugendstil pattern. The building now houses the office of the Department of Horticulture. HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 TAJ MAHAL HOTEL “You are never too old to set another goal or to dream a new dream.” - C.S. Lewis There are two parts to this heritage building – the old and the new. The old building is believed to be more than 60 years old. The buildings have a very prominent architectural style that shows ounces of Indo-European influence. Today, the Hotel Taj Mahal is one of their premier heritage hotels in the city that provides a truly imperial style of living. The hotel overlooks the breathtaking backdrop of Hyderabad’s imposing architectural landmarks and also provides comprehensive sightseeing tours of the same. It comprises of 45 aesthetically alluring rooms. It is owned by one of the biggest players in Hyderabad’s heritage game, the Nadimane Hotels Private Limited. LOCATION: KING KOTI RD, ABIDS ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: INDO-EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDING CENTRAL BANK BUILDING “Fifty years ago wealth was stored and transmitted physically through gold bars, stock certificates, bank notes, and coins” Scott Cook The complex of Central Bank Building lies in the Bank Street area. The building belongs to the Raja of Dubbak Samasthan (Siddipet Taluk, Medak District). There are three buildings in the area housing the Central Bank and the peoples’ Tutorial College. The buildings are two-storeyed and have western archtiecture. The age of the main building may be more than 100 years. LOCATION: BANK STREET, KOTI ARCHITECTURALSTYLE: EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS 119 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 BARADARI KHURSHEED NAWAB JAH BAHADUR OF Never underestimate the power of passion.- Eve Sawyer The Baradari (palace) of Khurshid Jah lies between the Asmangarh Palace and the Iqbal-udDoula Palace. It was one of the most prominent palaces of Hyderabad, designed personally by Nawab Fakhruddin Khan, the grandfather of Sir Khurshid Jah. During the period of Sir Khurshid, a lot of extension and improvement of this palace were carried out. It was constructed between 1880 and 1890. The palace, with spacious rooms and vast corridors, is still in a fair state of preservation. In its inner courtyard, there was a star-like cistern called the ‘Tara Hauz’ with a beautiful fountain. LOCATION : SHAH GUNJ ARCHITECTURAL STYLE : EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY : PALACES AND COMPLEXES Till recently a grand mela (fair) was held at the Devdi of Khurshid Jah on the occasion of NagPanchami festival. It has a relatively austere European façade with ionic columns and a barrel vault roof. It is listed for architectural and historical value. CENTRAL CO-OPERATIVE TRAINING COLLEGE “That’s the value of a college education... I don’t know anywhere in the world where you can make an investment and make that kind of return” - Gaston Caperton The Central Co-operative Training College is adjacent to Nizam College. The building was constructed in 1930. As soon as one entered the building, he could find a big hall with marble flooring which can accommodate about 1000 persons for any function. The hall is named after Maharaja Sir Kishan Pershad, the Prime Minister of Hyderabad State. It is now leased out for handicrafts exhibition and the building architecture is hardly visible. 120 LOCATION : GUNFOUNDRY ARCHITECTURAL STYLE : EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY : INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 GOVERNMENT UNANI HOSPITAL “Live your life fom your heart. Share from your heart. And your story will touch and heal people's souls.” - Melody Beattie In the year 1810, a few paces away from the Charminar on the side of Moghalpura entrance arch, in a tiny mosque called Sajida Begum Masjid; a scholar from Afghanistan started holding classes in religious subjects and basis sciences. A course in Unani Tib was also started by him. Till 1910 it functioned as a semi Government institution and in 1911 it was taken over by the Government. LOCATION: DIAGONALLY OPPOSITE CHARMINAR ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: CITY IMPROVEMENT BOARD TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS In 1938-39 this school was upgraded into a college and shifted to the present building at Charminar. At present the college is functioning in the premises of the Govt. Unani Hospital which was built in 1929, next to the Charminar during the reign of the 7th Nizam, Nawab Mir Osman Ali Khan Bahadur. it has established itself as one of the most important Unani and Ayurvedic hospitals in the nation and also is a great testament to Indo-Saracenic architecture. 121 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 MAHAL WANAPARTHI We must never cease from exploration. And the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we began and to know the place for the first time. - T S Eliot Situated near the Mozamjahi market, the Wanaparthy building belonged to the Raja of Wanaparthy in Mahaboobnagar district. It was built in 1915 by the Raja, who used it as his residence. The architecture is western with semi-circular arches and an imposing dome with a lantern. LOCATION : JAMBAGH ROAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE : EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY : INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS BAQUER BAGH “He that loveth maketh his own the grandeur he loves” - Ralph Waldo Emerson The Baquer Bagh is the property of Abdul Baquer Khan. Inside the garden there is a big building of Indo-Islamic structure. The building, which is more than 50 years old, is situated at Saidabad. LOCATION: SAIDABAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: INDO-EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS 122 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 GOVERNMENT ENT HOSPITAL “This life is a hospital in which every patient is possessed with a desire to change his bed” - Charles Baudelaire The hospital building was erected by the famous Parsi bankers, Pestonji and company, who supervised revenues of Berar from 1839-1845. It was then known as LOCATION: BANK STREET, KOTI ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS Pestonji ki koti. Later the building was occupied by Raja Pratap Girji and thus was known as Pratap gir koti. It now houses the 125-bed ENT Hospital set up sometime in 1965 and has specialty departments in otoneurology, allergy, pathology, audiology and radiology. 123 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 JUBILEE HALL “Architecture can’t fully represent the chaos and turmoil that are part of the human personality, but you need to put some of that turmoil into the architecture, or it isn’t real” - Frank Stella Jubilee Hall is a royal palace built during the reign of Mir Osman Ali Khan. It is located in Bagh-e-Aaam (Public Garden) on the Nampally Road. In 1937, Jubilee Hall was the venue for the silver Jubilee celebration of the Nizam’s accession to the throne; hence the origination of its name. It is an example of the revival of Qutub Shahi style of architecture. A special gold plated chair was made 124 LOCATION: PUBLIC GARDEN ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: CITY IMPROVEMENT BOARD TYPOLOGY: INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS on this occasion, inscribed with the Nizam’s crest; the chair is now exhibited at Purani Haveli. The building has an elegant facade built in the IndoPersian style. At the centre, a small but high stage for the throne of the Nizam was built, in the shape of the ‘Dastar’ (Crown) of the Nizam; it is clearly visible as the white square in the middle. HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 PAVILLION IN BHAGWANDAS GARDEN “Some men like to make a little garden out of life and walk down a path” - Jean Anouilh Raja Bhagwandas Hari Das accompanied Nizam-ul-Mulk Asaf Jah-1 and came to Hyderabad in 1729. Along with 3 brothers he had inherited a jewellery business and also banking, patronised by the royals. The family of four brothers was held in high esteem for their nobility and loyalty to the ruler. They were Jagirdars and owned more than 120 Bungalows. Seth Kishan Das, uncle of Raja Bhagwan Das stayed in a house in Karwan which was 200 years old very similar to Tippu Sultans palace. The house was made of wood in the style of the Asaf Jahi period. It is surrounded by a big garden with a high compound wall. A large well is in existence which is still used by the local people. LOCATION: KARWAN ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: REGIONAL MUGHAL VARIATION TYPOLOGY: PAVILLIONS WITH GARDEN GATE PORTION –DARGAH HAZRATH NOORUDDIN SHAH “The longest part of the journey is said to be the passing of the gate” - Marcus Terentius Varro Situated near Darussallam road, the gate portion and the surrounding area came to prominence during the reign of Nizam VI, Nawab Mir Mahboob Ali Khan. Behind the gate portion is a grave yard. LOCATION: DARUSSALAM ROAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: QUTB SHAHI TYPOLOGY: MONUMENTAL STRUCTURE 125 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 OLD M.C.H OFFICE “We can't all leave a prestigious background or lots of money to visit our children, but we can leave them a legacy of love” - Naomi Rhode The head office of the Municipal Corporation, which is now shifted to Tank Bund, was earlier located in this building. The office was originally housed in Ameen Bagh, which was the residence of Mohammad Ameen, Prime-Minister of Sultan Abdulla Qutb Shah (1626-1672). The office was shifted to DarusShifa in 1906 during the tenure of A H Stevason who was the superintendent of the municipal department. The portion of the building facing west and the Aza Khana-eZahra is a new construction. LOCATION : DARUS-SHIFA ARCHITECTURAL STYLE : EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY : INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS DEVDI NAWAB SHAMSHEER JUNG “When a strong man armed, keepeth his palace, his goods are in peace” - Bible The palace of Nawab Shamsheer Jung Bahadur-II is situated at Yakutpura. Shamsheer was the son of Shamsheer Jung-I, who lived during the period of Salar Jung-I. The Shamsheer Jung family made a remarkable contribution to the wealth and welfare of the Hyderabad State. It also contributed to the economic welfare of the poor class and to the civic and political administration of the state. 126 LOCATION : YAKUTPURA ARCHITECTURAL STYLE : EUROPEAN TYPOLOGY : INDIVIDUAL BUILDINGS HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 VICTORIA MEMORIAL ORPHANAGE “The earth is a great big orphanage for most animals” - Eric Roberts Victoria Memorial Home functions as an orphanage and a vocational school. Built in 1903 by Mir Mahaboob Ali Khan the sixth Nizam, the building named “Mahale- Saroornagar” houses the Home. When the Nizam decided not to reside in the palace, it was converted into an orphanage in memory of Queen Victoria. The word ‘Orphanage’ was replaced by ‘Home’ in 1953 on Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru’s suggestion. LOCATION: SAROORNAGAR ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: CITY IMPROVEMENT BOARD TYPOLOGY: PALACES AND COMPLEXES The palace looks expansive with high ceiling, huge halls and rooms, and is preserved for its architectural and historical value, being listed as a Grade II building. The building is rectangular in shape, 420-feet in length, 285-feet in width and 32-feet in height. A large hall partitioned for the principal’s room, office, and library, leads into a rectangular courtyard. 127 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 128 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 THERE ARE SEVEN HERITAGE BUILDINGS, TWO PROTECTED MONUMENTS AND ONE ROCK FORMATION WHICH ARE EITHER DEMOLISHED OR ARE UNTRACED. THREE THE REASONS HERITAGE MONUMENTS ARE VARIED. WERE DEMOL- ISHED DUE TO ROAD WIDENING AND ONE WAS RENOVATED INTO A MODERN EDIFICE. THE REST THREE REMAINS UNTRACED DUE TO THE RAPID CHANGE IN THE LANDSCAPE OF THE CITY. THE TWO PROTECTED HERITAGE MONUMENTS REMAINS UNTRACED WITHOUT ANY INFORMATION EITHER. THE ROCK PARK ON OLD BOMBAY ROAD NEAR DARGAH HUSSAIN SHAH WALI ALSO REMAINS UNTRACED. 129 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 RAVI BAR “It is love, not reason, that is stronger than death.” Thomas Mann LOCATION THEN: TROOP BAZAR ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: INDO-EUROPEAN STATUS: DEMOLISHED Ravi Bar used to be on the road connecting the Urdu Galli Road to Troop Bazar Road. The building was believed to be more than 50 years old. It was possessed by Abdul Rahim, the minister of the Nizam’s state. The veterinary hospital was housed in it, but it was later sold to the owner of the Ravi Bar. The façade of the building was quite appealing and displayed Indo-European architecture. ADIL ALAM MANSION “If I were asked to name the chief benefit of the house, I should say: the house shelters day-dreaming, the house protects the dreamer, the house allows one to dream in peace” - Gaston Bachelard The bungalow of Rani of Gadwal, constructed between 1915 and 1920 was a mix of Indo-European style of architecture. More than two decades ago, the Mansion was occupied by the Andhra Pradesh Public Service Commission. The building was demolished and coverted into a modern buidling by the Commission. LOCATION THEN: NAMPALLY STATION ROAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE : INDO-EUROPEAN STATUS: DEMOLISHED DEVDI RANACHAND-AHOTICHAND “Death hangs over thee, While thou still live, while thou may, do good” - Marcus Aurelius LOCATION THEN: MEHDIPATNAM ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: OTHER STATUS: DEMOLISHED 130 The building was said to be more than 90 years old and going by its name, the building belonged to two brothers - Ranachand and Ahotichand. It was a double-storeyed building with hemispherical sun shades, typically European in style. It was pulled down due to the road widening drive. HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 RITZ HOTEL (HILL FORT) UNTRACED HERITAGE BUILDINGS DEVDI ASMAN JAH LOCATION: SHAH GUNJ ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: EUROPEAN STATUS: UNTRACED “The home to everyone is his castle and fortress, as well for his defense against injury and violence, as for his repose” - Edward Coke LOCATION: NAUBAT PAHAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: INDO EUROPEAN STATUS: DEMOLISHED “The great advantage of a hotel is that it is a refuge from home life” - George Bernard Shaw Hill Fort Palace was where the younger son of the last Nizam, Prince Moazzam Jah, stayed. It is now known as the Ritz Hotel. Built originally by Sir Nizamat Jung, the architectural style was based on the Trinity College in Cambridge where he had studied, and the castles described in the novels of Sir Walter Scott. The building was completed in 1915 and named the ‘Hill Fort Palace’. CENTRAL BUILDING DIVISION LOCATION THEN: MUKHRAM JAH ROAD ARCHITECTURAL STYLE: OTHER STATUS: DEMOLISHED “The more sophisticated we get, the more advanced our buildings and vehicles become, the more vulnerable we are” - Stephen Ambrose The Central Building Division at the Mukarram Jahi road was more than 80 years old. It was a PWD Building. This building was believed to be purchased by the Government before 1947, when Sir Mohammed Mirzsa Ismail was the Prime Minister of Hyderabad State. It was demolished due to the road widening drive. Asman Garh Palace was constructed by Sir Asman Jah, a noble from the Paigah family. Asman Garh Palace is built in accordance with that of the castles of Europe. Built in 1885, the palace has some unparalleled architectural features; Sir Asman Jah, chose the Gothic style with pointed arches supported by small Corinthian pillars and stretched arrow-slit windows, topping the building with castle battlements. A flight of steps leads to a platform with the staircase branching off on either side. Another peculiar feature, the gateway at the entrance, which is in the shape of the royal turban of the Seventh Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan, was added much later in 1925-26. In the years gone by, this gateway was visible from a distance. ALI MANZIL LOCATION: ADJACENT TO NIZAM TRUST OFFICE ARCHEOLOGICAL STYLE: INDO-EUROPEAN STATUS: UNTRACED “You cannot change your destination overnight, but you can change your direction overnight” - Jim Rohn Near Fateh Maidan, besides Nizam’s Charitable Trust (Parade Villa) is situated an old building after the name of Ali Mohammed, the murshid of the sulaimani community. It might have been constructed about 70 years ago. The building has beautiful sunshades over windows and sloped roofs over verandahs with decorative wooden brackets. UNTRACED PROTECTED ARCHAEOLOGICAL MONUMENTS Jawada Grave & Mosque Fortification & Baradari, Malkajgiri (No Information) UNTRACED HERITAGE ROCK FORMATION Rock Garden, Old Bombay Road near Dargah Hussain Shah Wali 131 ESTIMATED BY GEOLOGISTS TO BE SOME 2,500 MILLION YEARS OLD, THE PRIMORDIAL ROCKS IN HYDERABAD ARE SAID TO BE AMONGST THE OLDEST AND HARDEST ROCKS IN THE WORLD. HAVING RISEN FROM THE EARTH’S BELLY, THESE ROCKS COVER PARTS OF ANDHRA PRADESH, KARNATAKA AND MADHYA PRADESH. OVER THE YEARS, THESE ROCKS HAVE BEEN NAMED AS PER THEIR IMPLAUSIBLE SHAPES. SO THERE IS TORTOISE ROCK, BEAR’S NOSE, CLUB SANDWICH AND SO ON. BUT AS HYDERABAD IS EMERGING AT RAPID PACE AND IS BUILDING ITSELF UP TO SKYSCRAPERS, THESE ROCKS HAVE SUFFERED. MANY HAVE BEEN BLOWN TO SMITHEREENS. SOME HAVE BECOME TEMPLES OR SHRINES, SOME EVEN ADVERTISING OPTIONS OR A LOVER’S SIGNATURE. THERE ARE EFFORTS TO PRESERVE WHAT IS LEFT WHICH GIVES HOPE THAT THESE UNIQUE FEATURES OF NATURE WILL SEE FEW MORE MILLENNIUMS. HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 HILLOCKS AROUND DURGAM CHERUVU LAKE 134 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 “BEAR’S NOSE” INSIDE SHILPARAMAM, MADHAPUR 135 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 “OBELISK” ON ROAD NO.66, JUBILEE HILLS 136 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 “CLIFF ROCK” BETWEEN ROAD NO. 45 & 46, JUBILEE HILLS 137 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 “TOADSTOOL” NEXT TO BLUE CROSS, JUBILEE HILLS 138 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 “TORTOISE ROCK” IN NANDI HILLS LAYOUT NEAR JUBILEE HILLS 139 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 “MUSHROOM ROCK” INSIDE THE UNIVERSITY OF HYDERABAD CAMPUS 140 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 “MONSTER ROCK” NEAR FILM NAGAR, BETWEEN ROAD NO. 70 & 71, JUBILEE HILLS 141 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 EUROPEAN European colonists brought with them to India concepts of their “world view” and a whole baggage of the history of European architecture — Neo-Classical, Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance. The initial structures were utilitarian warehouses and walled trading posts, giving way to fortified towns along the coastline. The Portuguese adapted to India the climatically appropriate Iberian galleried patio house and the Baroque churches of Goa. The St. Francis Church at Cochin, built by the Portuguese in 1510, is believed to be the first church built by the Europeans in India. INDO-EUROPEAN claim 1912) with an aim to beautify the city after the devastating floods of 1908. The City Improvement Board (CIB) functioned for nearly half a decade and built new roads, cleared slums, constructed housing colonies and several public buildings particularly during the nineteen thirties. Redevelopment of localities, roads and the Musi riverfront by the CIB triggered the construction of several city landmarks like the Osmania General Hospital, the High Court and the Moazam Jahi Market. OTHER There are few buildings where the architectural style is referred to be as other. This is because the style is an amalgamation of varied styles or is unique is on its own. REGIONAL MUGHAL VARIATION (RMV) After the glorious Mughal Architecture, India saw the development of the Indo-European Architecture, which was the amalgamation of the styles of the European countries, like Portugal, Holland, France and England. CITY IMPROVEMENT BOARD STYLE “Regional Mughal Variation” style is typified by cusped arches, canopied and projected balconies over window openings or jharokas. QUTB SHAHI The city improvement board-Majlis-eAaraish-e-Balda was set up in 1914 (few sources 142 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 Qutb Shahis built with massive granite walls. Granite and lime mortar are the chief ingredients of Golconda Fort, the Royal Tombs, the Charminar and the innumerable Qutb Shahi mosques. The architectural ancestors of the Qutb Shahis were the Bahmanis. Qutb Shahis therefore began with Bahmani moorings and proceeded to evolve an individual style that culminated in architectural marvels like the Charminar and other landmarks. NEO QUTB SHAHI torical context in which it exists. It has often been dismissed as crude and unrefined, but also has proponents who highlight its importance in current design. TEMPLE DESIGN The word neo means new. It is derived from the Greek word neos, which means young, fresh, new or recent. Qutb Shahi style came to an abrupt halt following the Mughal conquest of 1687. During the later half of the 19th century, there was a revival of the Qutb Shahi style. Mosques and tombs were built with domes and arches similar to the Qutb Shahi ones. A very conspicuous specimen of Neo Qutb Shahi style are the Darush-Shifa & Mosque, Mehboob Chowk Mosque, Dargah Hazrath Shajauddin and Dargah Yousufain. MOORISH The principles of temple design culminate in the vast and rich knowledge laid down by the sastra, religious scriptures, such at the Silpasastra and Sthapanaveda. The most important part of the temple is the sanctum sanctorum, or garbhagriha, which is where the main deity of the temple is located. In a South Indian temple the room is usually square with a low roof and no windows or doors, except the front door. Over the deity is a tower. In North Indian temples the tower is usually quite high, and in South Indian temples the tower is usually low or medium height. The main entrance of the temple is usually from the east. ASAF JAHI STYLE Moorish architecture is a term used to describe the articulated Islamic architecture of North Africa and parts of Spain and Portugal where the Moors were dominant from 711-1492. The Asaf Jahi architecture, including palaces, tombs and mosques, belonging to Kings and nobles, are good examples of a mixture of the Mughal and European art styles. A Typical example in Hyderabad is the Mahboobia Girls High School & Junior College. VERNACULAR Vernacular architecture is a term used to categorize methods of construction which use locally available resources to address local needs. Vernacular architecture tends to evolve over time to reflect the environmental, cultural and his- 143 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 PROTECTED MONUMENTS Akkanna Sarai Armenian Cemetery Badshahi Ashurkhana Charminar Dabirpura Gate Darga Hazrath Saidanima Saheba Dargah Syed Shah Raziuddin Golconda Gunfoundry Hakim’s Tomb and Mosque Hayat Bakshi Begum’s Mosque Khairath Khan’s Tomb Khairati Begum’s Mosque & Tomb Khazana Building Kulsum Begum Mosque Mecca Masjid Miyan Mishk Masjid Monsieur Raymond’s Obelisk Mushirabad Mosque Paigah Tombs Patancheru Tombs Premamati’s Mosque Puranapul Darwaza Purani Idgah Qutb Shahi Tombs Shaikpet Mosque & Sarai Shamsheer Kotha Taramati Baradari Toli Masjid Uppal Mosque 24 36 24 14 25 26 26 18 36 34 29 28 33 37 37 16 32 27 31 22 27 31 32 25 20 35 35 30 28 34 HERITAGE BUILDINGS A. Majeed Khan’s residence Adil Alam Mansion Afzal Gunj Mosque Air & Land Warfare Building Aiwan-e-Ali Ali Manzil Aliabad Sarai Allauddin’s Building Amberpet Burj Ameen Manzil Andhra Patrika Building AP High Court Asman Mahal 144 88 130 76 75 90 131 64 68 60 69 92 50 110 Asmangarh Palace 83 Azha Khana-e-Zehra 97 Baitul Ashraf 116 Baquer Bagh 122 Baradari of Nawab Khursheed Jah 120 Bella Vista (Admn Staff College ) 85 Central Bank Building 119 Central Building Division 131 Central Co-operative Training College120 Charkaman 58 Chowmahalla & Khilwat Khana 42 City College 52 Clock Tower – Secunderabad 59 Clock Tower & PS, James Street 79 Clock Tower Mehboob Chowk 100 Clock Tower, Fateh Maidan 99 Clock Tower, Sultan Bazar 61 College of Nursing 115 D. Lakshmaiah’s Residence 102 D. Pentaiah’s Residence 102 Dargah Hazrath Shajauddin 71 Dargah Syed Mir Mahmood Wali 78 Dargah Yousufain 76 Darush Shifa & Mosque 75 Devdi Asman Jah 131 Devdi Bansilal 111 Devdi Imaad Jung Bahadur 111 Devdi Iqbal-ud-Doula 66 Devdi Kishan Pershad Bahadur 94 Devdi Mehdi Nawaz Jung 68 Devdi Nawab Shamsheer Jung 126 Devdi Nazir Nawaz Jung 81 Devdi Ranachand-Ahotichand 130 Dhanrajgirji Complex 84 Dilkusha Guest House 112 Directorate of Industries 85 Errum Manzil 81 Façade - Baitul Ghous 107 Façade - Hifazath Hussain 108 Falaknuma Palace – Main Palace 40 Gandhi Medical College 70 Gate Portion–Devdi Akram Ali Khan 65 Gate Portion – Shahi Jilu Khana 63 Gate Portion - Shamraj Bahadur 101 Gate Portion-Dargah Nooruddin Shah125 Gate Portion, Dewan Devdi 61 Golden Threshold 69 Goshamahal Baradari 108 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 Government ENT Hospital Government Unani Hospital Greenlands Guest House Homeopathic Hospital Hyderabad Public School I Prakash Building Jamay Masjid Jawahar Bal Bhavan Jhamsingh Temple & Mosque Jubilee Hall Kaman Chatta Bazar Khusro Manzil King Koti Complex Kishan Bagh Temple Lady Hydari Club Lakshmi Paper Mart Building Mahal Wanaparthi Maharaja Chandulal Temple Mahboob Mansion Mahboobia Girls High School Malwala Palace Manjhli Begum ki Haveli Mehboob Chowk Mosque Mini Bal Bhavan Mishk Mahal Moazzam Jahi Market Moghulpura Tombs Mohanlal Malani’s Residence Monty’s Hotel Nanu Bhai G.Shah’s Building Nizam Club Nizam College Nizamia Observatory Old M.C.H Office Osmania Arts college Osmania General Hospital Paigah Plaza Panj Mahalla Parsi Dharamshala Parsi Fire Temple Parwarish Bagh Pavillion in Bhagwandas Garden Prem Chand’s Residence 123 121 84 92 54 88 74 103 73 124 63 106 82 99 89 104 122 98 82 113 101 66 98 118 67 90 78 104 87 105 93 86 62 126 46 44 80 117 60 96 117 125 114 Princess Esin Women’s Centre Purana Pul Purani Haveli Complex Qila Kohna & Mosque Raj Bhavan- Old Building Raja Bhagwandas Building Raza Ali Bungalow Ravi Bar Reddy Hostel Residency Complex Ritz Hotel (Hill Fort) Roshan Mahal Saint Joseph’s Cathedral Samadhi Puranmal Sardar Mahal Shyam Rao Chungi’s Residence Sitaram Bagh Temple Spanish Mosque St George’s Church St Mary’s Church St. John’s Church State Archaeological Museum State Central Library Taj Mahal Hotel Tomb of Fakhar ul Mulk Victoria Maternity Hospital Victoria Memorial Orphanage Vijay Marie Church Vikhar Manzil Vilayat Manzil Yousuf Tekhri 87 64 83 79 116 107 105 130 114 48 131 65 96 95 93 109 72 71 74 77 72 89 56 119 94 91 127 95 80 91 110 HERITAGE PRECINCTS : ROCKS Hillocks around Durgam Cheruvu “Bear’s Nose”, Madhapur “Obelisk”, Jubilee Hills “Cliff Rock”, Jubilee hills “Toadstool”, Jubilee Hills “Tortoise Rock”, Nandi Hills layout “Mushroom Rock” “Monster Rock”, Jubilee Hills 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT ● Study: HUDA- Conser vation of Historical Buildings and Areas in Hyderabad City ● Prof. P Chenna Reddy, Director, Department of Archaeology and Museums, Govt. of AP ● Dr Omar Khalidi, Massachusetts Institute of Technology ● Raza Ali Khan’s ‘Hyderabad: City in History’ & ‘Hyderabad – 400 years) ● S.P Shorey’s ‘In Search of Monuments’ ● Wikipedia ● blessingonthenet.com ● aponline.com ● culturopedia.com ● INTACH 145 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 BEHIND THE LENS M Vidya Sagar Rao, the man behind the lens for all the photos featured in this Picutre Book, has been in the field for the past 25 years. Having worked in various profiles within the field; right from Still Photography in Telugu films, to vernacular newspapers to political photography to industrial photography to daily English newspapers, he even owned a studio for sometime. With a religious passion towards his job, he has been able to click some of the most momentous occasions of past events. M. VIDYA SAGAR RAO PHOTOGRAPHER After taking up the assignment of photographing the heritage monuments of Hyderabad, he has traveled extensively throughout the city, day and night, into remote by lanes and unfamiliar territories, encountering angry watchmen, religiously peppered locals and even ignorant villagers and shopkeepers who had heritage and protected monuments right in front of them. Overcoming all these hurdles, ultimately he managed to successfully capture some of the best images of the heritage sites, rarely ever seen before. According to him, the experience of Heritage Capital Hyderabad pictures has been an eye-opener. He says, “To really understand and capture the vast treasure which the city lives with has opened up my view of the heritage we own, something which I never knew. After this immensely gratifying experience, I feel fortunate to be associated with the project and hope that the readers would definitely get enlightened about the historical significance of this princely city through this book. I just have to click. The Iraqi scientist ‘Ibn alHaytham’ started it and then Johann Zahn in 1685 made into a small and portable one to be practical for photography. The rulers made their signature buildings, many made historic monuments. Looking at them in awe, all I had to do was to click. And all I saw was just magical.” 146 HERITAGE CAPITAL HYDERABAD-2008 A CIVILIZATION IS A HERITAGE OF BELIEFS, CUSTOMS, AND KNOWLEDGE SLOWLY ACCUMULATED IN THE COURSE OF CENTURIES, ELEMENTS DIFFICULT AT TIMES TO JUSTIFY BY LOGIC, BUT JUSTIFYING THEMSELVES AS PATHS WHEN THEY LEAD SOMEWHERE, SINCE THEY OPEN UP FOR MAN HIS INNER DISTANCE. - ANTOINE DE SAINT 147 PRESENTED BY: INDIAN EXPRESS NEWSPAPERS (MUMBAI) LTD.