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With Czech Airlines to Zurich From Prague to Zurich on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 14.20 and on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays at 19.15. Back on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 7.50 and on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 16.20.
Off the beaten track
Zurich is divided into twelve districts called “Kreise”. Most visitors do not venture beyond Kreis 1, the Old Town. That is a pity, because it is only by visiting other parts that you can see why living here is so pleasant. So try to explore at least some of them. Kreis 2 on Lake Zurich has a nice beach and is a popular entertainment spot for younger people, since it is also home to a number of hostels popular with young tourists. Kreis 4 with its Langstrasse thoroughfare was once the local red light district, but now is more alive with art and youthful bohemianism. During the day, a number of boutiques of talented fashion and other designers stand as a testament to this, as well as the ubiquitous small galleries, art-house cinemas, cafés, trendy bars and attractive restaurants. The nights can be spent dancing in the numerous local clubs. Zukunft, for example, though it literally means “future”, is already an established classic. The originally industrial district no. 5 has transformed itself into a centre of the arts. On Limmatstrasse 270, formerly a complex of the Löwenbräu brewery, you will find plenty of galleries focused on contemporary art, such as Kunsthalle Zurich, the Museum of Contemporary Art, the galleries Hauser & Wirth and Bob van Orsow, or the Migros Museum specialising in conceptual art. Reconstructed industrial buildings in the area have become home to a number of restaurants with imaginative cuisine, so you will also eat well here. Head to Kreis 6 if you want to relax. At Lennsteg 10 is the Flussbad Oberer Letten. Here, the crystal clear river Limmat is lined with wooden terraces, volleyball courts, grassy areas designed for picnics and lounging in the sun, cafés and beer gardens. Where celebrities dine
After all the fun, you could almost forget how Zurich deserved its reputation. So you should not leave without finding out why the city is so popular with the powerful, rich and famous. Kronenhalle is the quintessential Zurich legend and institution. A visit to this restaurant in the Old Town, in a five-story grey building on Rämistrasse 4, is a real experience. You might not even notice the restaurant if it weren’t for all the limousines pulling up outside. But as soon as you walk through the door, you will feel the heady atmosphere of old money, history and art. The main hall of the restaurant, the Brasserie, with its wood-panelled walls, antique chandeliers and green leather-upholstered seats, is the embodiment of dignified patrician elegance. The adjacent smaller hall named after Marc Chagall in turn exudes the feel of old Europe – stained glass windows, dark wood, Persian carpets, velvet curtains, and lamps with red shades. 52
Upstairs you will find the “Swiss Gallery” with works by renowned Swiss artists such as Giacometti, Segantini and Hodler. At Kronenhalle, seated beneath works by painters such as Braque, Chagall, Miró and Picasso, the most famous global celebrities dine while waiters in white jackets and waitresses in black serve them with a grace reminiscent of dancers. Come here for dinner and you might find yourself at the table next to Catherine Deneuve, Placido Domingo or Roman Polanski. Among those who used to eat here are Igor Stravinsky, Bertold Brecht, Thomas Mann, Richard Strauss, Federico Fellini, Friedrich Dürrenmatt, and many more. Paintings by artist regulars hang on the walls. The most regular of the renowned visitors was James Joyce, who lived in Zurich for eight years until his death. And the portrait by Varlin of the impressive and elegant Madam Zumsteg, who built the whole establishment up from scratch, oversees that everyone is satisfied. While lunch or dinner in Kronenhalle can make a considerable dent in your budget, another legendary place with a completely different atmosphere is not as expensive but equally memorable. The Sternen Grill stand, located at the nearby Bellevueplatz square, reportedly offers the best bratwurst in the city. Do not forget to have it with a bit of mustard and stange beer (pronounced “shtunghah”). Despite its seemingly extreme differences, Zurich is a place where everyone can enjoy life.
Czech Airlines’ tips What to taste? One dish is specific to Zurich: Geschnetzeltes. Little morsels of veal with onions in a sauce of cream and a little white wine, mushrooms and spices. This delicacy is usually served with Swiss potato pancakes called rösti. Where to go? The Alpine resort of Engelberg is just an hour by train from Zurich. On the glacier you can ski almost all year round, and in the summer you can enjoy hiking, fishing, golf, mountain biking, or even hang gliding and bungee jumping. What to bring back? Nobody will mind a gift of a Swiss watch, a Swiss knife or the famous Zurich Sprüngli chocolate. How to blend in? Zurich residents hardly raise an eyebrow even when they meet stars of the silver screen and royalty. Just be yourself, and they will open up to you.
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