DRINK/WINESIPPER FOOD
Although its genetic precursors have been identified (dureza and mondeuse blanche), the actual origin of syrah remains a mystery. While some champion the theory that it came from the ancient Persian city of Shiraz (the name still used for the grape in Australia), stronger evidence places it in France’s Rhone Valley as early as the first century. Today, it is one of the world’s most popular red varieties. As our tasting proved, it’s very well suited to the Northwest, with all three of this week’s top picks coming out of Washington.
LAU R IE PEAR M AN
BRING ON THE BARREL Barrel-aged cocktail trend hits Boise TARA MORGAN On the list of things benefitting from time in a barrel—wine, whiskey, pantless cartoon prospectors—hand-crafted cocktails have traditionally been absent. But with the help of mixologist Jeffrey Morgenthaler at Portland, Ore.’s Clyde Common, barrel-aged cocktails have swept spirit menus from coast to coast. In fact, the National Restaurant Association named onsite barrel-aged drinks as one of the top 10 trends in drinks and cocktails for 2013. “We started our barrel-aging program almost a year and a half ago,” explained Mai Thai head bartender Michael Reed. “Usually, we’ve got one in service and one that’s going to take it’s place, that way we’ve always got something to offer on our menu.” To make a barrel-aged drink, Mai Thai bar staff mix a large batch of one of their signature cocktails—like The Moonraker, with Leopold Bros. Georgia peach whiskey, cognac, Cocchi Americano and absinthe— and then pour the boozy brew into a 5-liter new American oak barrel to age. “One of the advantages of doing barrel programs is that you can make it regular and consistent, and you can take a product that is a little bit harsh and you can give it that extra nurture in the barrel and its going to round out,” said Reed.
Mai Thai mixologist Michael Reed crafts small batch barrel-aged cocktails.
Alavita, the recently opened Italian concept from Fork owner Cameron Lumsden, also boasts barrel-aged cocktails on its menu. “We were just looking for something to separate us, set us apart from other cocktail programs,” said Lumsden. “And we think what’s great about the barrel-aged cocktail program is the fact that it’s a very consistent drink.” Alavita, which has close to a dozen 3and 5-gallon toasted-oak whiskey barrels, currently features four barrel-aged cocktails on its menu: a Negroni, a Manhattan, the Rock ’n’ Rye and a house cocktail called Alavita, which uses Crater Lake gin, St. Germain, sweet vermouth and bitters. In Lumsden’s opinion, barrel-aging spirits
for six to seven weeks helps to soften their harsh, boozy notes and adds a friendly vanilla tone to the drinks. “What it does is, it exposes people to maybe different kinds of cocktails that they wouldn’t normally order,” said Lumsden. For Reed, barrel-aging drinks is a way to expedite the often labor-intensive process of making craft cocktails. “It takes longer to get drinks out because technique is more important in how we do it. … If you can figure out ways in which certain cocktails are already batched and prepped, then you can produce a really nice product that doesn’t take as long because you’ve done most of the work already,” said Reed.
NEWS/FOOD now during the transition, we’re keeping that a little close to the vest until we make sure we have ever ything just the way we want it,” Caffeine fiends in Meridian and Mountain Home might have noticed said Rickard. that Moxie Java’s teal-winged signage was recently replaced by a new Rickard confirmed the stores will also keep their same staff. brand: Lucky Perk. Two owner groups that control six Treasure Valley “We’re not letting anyone go; same employees,” said Rickard. “HopeMoxie Java franchises decided to team up and go their own way. fully, we’ll be so busy, we’ll need to add more.” “We’re trying to get a little bit more control of our products and really In other changing of signage news, Falcon Tavern at 705 W. Banfocus on what our customers have been asking for,” said Dave Rickard, nock St. in Boise, has now become The Redheaded Finn Pub, under owner and manager of the former Moxie on Maple Grove and Overland new owner Ginger Ragan and her sister, roads. “We’ve always gotten along great— manager Rhonda House, who took over the two different owner groups from the space in 2012. Moxie—and when the opportunity came “We chose the name The Redheaded along to go with them, we really jumped at Finn to recognize our ethnic heritage (and the opportunity.” Ginger’s red hair),” reads the restaurant’s New Lucky Perk locations include Eagle website, redheadedfinnpub.com. and Ustick roads, Cherry Lane and Linder The menu, staff and decor at RedRoad, Overland and Eagle roads, Overland headed Finn will remain mostly the same and Meridian roads, Overland and Maple as Falcon Tavern. Grove roads, and American Legion Boule“We hope that the regulars realize we vard and N. Fourth E. in Mountain Home. are doing some new things but not taking Rickard said the stores will retain the away from the old … just adding our own same equipment but have contracted with touches and twists, and maybe adding another coffee provider. some of our cultural flavor,” reads the “We actually are reser ving who we are restaurant’s website. doing that with, they actually are local—a Six former Moxie Java locations are now called Lucky Perk. —Tara Morgan small-batch artisan roaster—but just right
THE NAME CHANGE GAME
LUCKY PERK
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QUE SYRAH
2008 HESTIA SYRAH, $36 The wine’s dark, dense, almost brooding purple color foreshadows the richness of its aromas. The nose is filled with cherry liqueur, blueberry and plum, backed by earthy touches of toasted oak. On the palate, it’s fruit-forward with creamy cherry and berry flavors, silky smooth tannins and a long, bright finish. This is an impressive wine that has received well-deserved critical acclaim. 2008 NXNW SYRAH, $30 King Estate (one of Oregon’s most stunning properties) has ventured beyond that state’s borders, creating the equally impressive North by Northwest label. The Columbia Valley syrah opens with floral berry and plum fruit aromas, colored by soft oak and mocha-laced coffee. Lean and lively in the mouth, this is a well-integrated wine, filled with tangy cherry and blueberry fruit flavors. Ripe tannins come through on the finish. 2008 SYZYGY SYRAH, $32 A blend of grapes from three different Walla Walla, Wash. vineyards, the Syzygy syrah has complex and enticing aromas including spicy plum, berry, cherry, white pepper, oak, earth, herb, meat and light smoke. It’s an elegantly structured wine that’s beautifully balanced and offers ripe berry and plum flavors that play against a core of tangy, food-friendly acidity. —David Kirkpatrick
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