FOOD/BEERGUZZLER REVIEW/FOOD Restaurants get one chance to hit BW with their best shot. JEN GR AB LE
HIGH NOTE CAFE The devil is in the details JOSH GROSS
A familiar refrain echoes around Boise Weekly’s editorial department whenever we receive a menu from a new restaurant: “Enough already with the f@#$ing pulled pork sandwiches.” Restaurant after restaurant opens with nearly identical menus stocked with nary a hint of culinary adventure, and as critics, we’re about porked out. But The High Note Cafe, which took over the old Willi B’s space at 225 N. Fifth St. in July, is another story. Though its menu reads like so many others around town, the devil is in the details. And the High Note Cafe—open This pulled pork sandwich hits a high note, pulling ahead of the local competition. until 3 a.m. Thursdays through Saturdays— has its deets in a deliciously different order. tomato ($3.50 cup, $4.50 bowl), a rich, coco- takes long or costs much. Lunch can be For example: the Pork Torta ($8.95) is nutty concoction that may ruin other tomato grabbed in a flash, and there isn’t anything on a pulled pork sandwich. But instead of the the menu more than $10. soups for anyone who has a bowl. standard issue heap of greasy pig piled on a The spot’s one detraction is that its Another stand-out item is the brunch round bun with some sort of slaw, the pork is atmosphere can be a bit awkward, not just burrito, available anytime layered lengthwise in a hoagie, because the High Note is more empty than an and filled with eggs, chopped with a black bean spread, urban cafe ought to be, but because it feels roast beef, black bean puree, jack cheese, cabbage, tomato, HIGH NOTE CAFE emptier than it actually is. Though the space grilled onions, covered with cilantro and green salsa. It has 225 N. Fifth St. has been brightened up from its Willi B’s days a lime creme fraiche and a fresh, bright flavor with a 208-429-1911 with local art and a good jukebox, the room served with two house-made rare punch. thehighnotecafe.com feels strangely exposed and somewhat boxy. salsas. The price for that bad The other sandwiches and But even with its mildly off atmosphere, boy is $6.50, and the wait salads on the menu follow suit, High Note Cafe is still a slightly different time when the bars close is a using small details and fresh helluva lot shorter than the line at any of the take on a market-proven menu and is ingredients to rise above their simple billing. easily one of the best low-cost chowhouses downtown pizza joints. The house-made soups are some of the best downtown. In fact, nothing at the High Note Cafe examples, especially High Note’s creamy
NEWS/FOOD For more info on Burgerlicious, visit burgerlicious.greenhostusa.com. And speaking of beef, competitors cradled buns the size of small Burger buffs no longer need to hop in their rides to get a grass-fed plates, piled high with 2 pounds of bright-red sloppy joe meat at Payette patty slathered in sauce and saddled between buns. Burgerlicious food Brewery Oct. 6. In the Archie’s Place second annual Sloppy Joe-Eating truck will now bring the burger to you. Contest, contenders were pitted against their own stomachs and the “We have local grass-fed meat only—K4D [Family] Farms in Weiser— clock as they struggled to down a huge sandwich. and our specialty is our sauces, because it’s, ‘Burgerlicious: Embrace Upstart Justin Sane took home top honors in the “mere mortals” Your Saucy Side,’” explained Ingrid Bolen, Burgerlicious co-owner. heat, while Big Hungry, last year’s winner, managed to complete the Bolen, who was laid off from the State of Idaho two years ago, said main challenge in just under 1 minute, 30 she decided to open a food truck to reinseconds. Boise Weekly’s Andrew Crisp vent herself and “do something interesttook home second. ing.” Bolen and business partner Lora Moving from sloppy joes to tasty pies, Gaut rolled out Burgerlicious at Crooked Boise’s Flying Pie Pizzaria, the 34-yearFence Brewery Sept. 28. old restaurant with locations on Fairview “We looked at what’s out there right Avenue and State Street, is opening up a now, and there’s so many awesome third location at 601 Main St. in Meridian barbecue trucks and there’s so many awein early 2013. some taco trucks, we thought there’s this Occupying 3,400 square feet, the shop niche that’s missing and we personally will have 25 to 30 employees, according both love burgers—especially grass-fed to the Idaho Business Review. meat. I’m a convert,” said Bolen. IBR reports owner Florian Penalva is Burgerlicious has a limited menu— also working on a location near Boise grass-fed beef patties or store-bought State but doesn’t have a site yet. veggie burgers topped with a variety of specialty sauces, like horseradish or bleu Contestants got sloppy at Payette Brewing. —Tara Morgan and Andrew Crisp cheese bacon.
WHERE’S THE BEEF?
ED G LAZAR
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PUMPKIN ALES, REALLY? A confession: This is a categor y of brews whose appeal has always escaped me. I’ve got nothing against pumpkins, I just think they’re better suited to pies, Halloween jack-o-lanterns or even soups. That said, their popularity is undeniable, with people clamoring for them year after year. It has become a categor y that I could no longer ignore. I’m not sure what I was expecting, but the pumpkin influence and pie spice character was fairly restrained in the trio I tried, and each was ver y different stylistically. BUFFALO BILL’S PUMPKIN ALE Billed as America’s original pumpkin ale, this brew is a lovely, honey-colored pour with a thin head that fades quickly. The nose is dominated by lightly sour grain aromas with just a touch of spice and hops. It’s an easy drinking ale with lively carbonation and noticeable but subdued pumpkin elements. You get a hint of nutmeg and cinnamon backing the sweet, brown sugarlaced malt flavors. CROOKED FENCE BREWING EVIL HARVEST A thick mocha froth that leaves a nice lacing covers this amber-colored brew. You get a beautiful mix of restrained spice (nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger) coloring the creamy toasted malt aromas. It’s an eminently drinkable, nicely balanced ale with smooth malt playing against just the right hit of bitter hops and spice. This is a 22-ounce bomber with a great label. UINTA PUNK’N HARVEST PUMPKIN ALE In the glass, this beer is an orangetinged, golden brew sporting little or no head. The pumpkin pie aromas are definitely dialed in with ample spice, fruit-laced malt and subtle hops. In the mouth, it drinks like a brown ale leading off with toasty malt, backed by very light, resiny hops and warming touches of fruit and spice. The finish is smooth and creamy. —David Kirkpatrick
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