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Schrodt: No, the exposure encountered when climbing high is exhilarating. The adrenaline rush is addictive. Schiffhauer: I was definitely afraid of heights before I started climbing, and still am today. I don’t have a problem with it while I’m climbing, as I have faith in the equipment and my ability to use it. But, the exposure felt while freely standing at the top of cliff, building, tall bridge, etc., and looking down over the edge, well that still makes be cringe a bit. Smith: Not even close.
Q
Do you think rock climbing is more of a mental or physical sport?
Henderson: The thing that makes climbing so difficult is the combination of mental and physical challenges. Schrodt: No, it is both all of the time. You can’t separate the decision-making and judgment required from the physical exertion necessary. Often when climbing, I find myself in the zone, completely focused to the extent that everything else is absent from my consciousness. Schiffhauer: There are both mental and physical aspects to climbing, all depending upon what it is you’re climbing. A route can be physically easy and mentally challenging, or vice-versa, or any combination in between. Smith: I think it’s more mental because you have to know you’re strong, know the rock won’t break, know your gear is good, know you won’t fall and know you have the best belay from someone like John Henderson. Every part of climbing is mental.
John Henderson 64
Bakersfield Life
June 2011
Jim Schrodt
Q
How do you mentally prepare yourself to climb?
Henderson: The best way to prepare mentally is to be well prepared physically. Check to make sure your harness is on properly. Check to make sure you’re properly tied into the rope. Make sure all of your equipment is in good condition. It is also helpful to have a partner in which you have confidence. It helps to be climbing a lot and be in good physical condition. When all that is done, you look out over the beautiful scenery, smile and remind yourself that there is no place on earth you would rather be. John Muir said, “It is better to be in the mountains thinking about God, than in church thinking about the mountains.” Schrodt: I just relax while getting ready. I look up and study the climb, decide what will be required while sorting gear and tying into the rope. Sometimes you lead on the sharp end of the rope, placing gear for protection as you go, while your partner belays, and other times you follow on top rope cleaning the gear the leader placed while he belays from above. It is customary to swing leads with your partner, but sometimes one partner will do most or all of the leading. The risk of falling is greater while leading as you will fall twice the distance — you are above your protection, plus stretch in the rope. When following or top roping, you only fall as far as the slack and stretch in the rope allows. Schiffhauer: I don’t think I really mentally prepare myself to climb. I guess if it’s going to be a spooky climb, I’ll try to stay calm and think about how fun or challenging it’s going to be. But in most cases, I’m just excited to climb. Smith: I don’t know that I prepare myself to climb. I just climb cause I love to.
Marc Schiffhauer
Scott Smith