baked the ultimate food high spring 2015 | issue 4
fall 2014 | A
MASTHEAD
baked SPRING 2015
Baked serves to inform students about the local food culture. We offer new cooking techniques, different local restaurants, quick and easy recipes, and the latest news in the food world. Baked is published once a semester with funding from your student fee. All contents of the publication are copyright 2015 by their respective creators.
EDITORIAL editor-in-chief AUDREY MORGAN managing editor FRIEDA PROJANSKY senior editors RIDDLEY GEMPERLEIN-SCHIRM, ELLEN MEYERS, GABRIELA RICCARDI assistant editors RENEE CHERRY, CORY FERNANDEZ, JULIE MCCULLOUGH food editor KATE BERNHARDT assistant food editor CALLIE WEINSTEIN writers ALINA BAGAMANOVA, NORA HORVATH, HALEY SCHLUTER
DESIGN & PHOTOGRAPHY creative director BETH FRITZINGER photo director JACKIE BARR photographers NATALIE MONTESANO, TERESA SABGA illustrators ERIN REEVES, LISE SUKHU designers MARA CORBETT, LINDSAY DAWSON, CHLOE MEISTER, SHAWNA RABBAS, KATHERINE SOTELO, AIMEE SY
DIGITAL digital director TERESA SABGA assistant digital director JACQUELINE FRATINI
COMMUNICATIONS pr director CHARLOTTE STOCKDALE pr team AMANDA ROTHENBERG, PHOEBE SMITH, LIZ SPROUT, JOCELYN WERLE social media coordinator MAX WEBB faculty advisor MELISSA CHESSHER spring 2015 | 3
TABLE OF CONTENTS
06 Simmer Down
24 The Giving Tree
07 Be A #FoodPorn Star
28 Fired Up!
08 Sweet Nothings
38 Baked's Beach Bag
10 Rise And Dine
40 Suck It.
11 Love At First Bite
42 Paint Your Palate
12 From Scratch
52 From The Garden
14 Now And Then
53 Food For Fuel
16 Wine A Little (Or A Lot)
54 #MyFoodHigh
19 Seeds Of Change 22 Cracking The Code
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EDITOR'S LETTER HERE AT BAKED, we aim to connect readers to the Syracuse food community—a mission I kept in mind when sampling eight slices of pizza for my first story. As editor-in-chief, I’m still overeating in the name of research, but for a wider audience. Thanks to the hard work of founding editor Teresa and others, Baked now has a strong presence on campus and in the city. We’ve covered subjects beyond the Syracuse limits—Skaneateles restaurant The Krebs changed its menu, but it hasn’t lost the small-town charm that once drew a U.S. president to its front porch (page 14). Like Baked, it’s constantly evolving while staying true to its roots. In this issue, you’ll find the recipes and guides we’re known for—so you can get drunk in the classiest way this summer (page 16) and finally put your grill to use (page 28)—but we’ve also dug a little deeper. Learn how ESF students are helping children connect with their food through gardening on page 19. If you just want to take pictures of your food without the shame, turn to page 7 for tips from our favorite social media pros. Who knows, you might be featured in our next Instagram roundup (page 54).
Enjoy the food high,
Audrey Morgan editor-in-chief
PHOTO: TERESA SABGA
spring 2015 | 5
BACK TO BASICS
Simmer down Three cooking techniques you need to know. WORDS: ALINA BAGAMANOVA | ILLUSTRATIONS: ERIN REEVES
Do you know the methods behind your favorite meals? Master these textbook culinary terms and you’ll be cooking with the best of ‘em in no time.
SAUTÉING This method of dry-heat cooking, borrowed from the French, requires a hot pan and a dash of oil. Make sure you constantly move the pan and stir your protein or vegetables to avoid burning— tossing and flipping yield the best results.
BLANCHING To retain color, flavor, and texture, bring a pot of water to a boil and cook vegetables until just softened. Afterwards, remove them immediately and plunge into an ice bath (a process known as “shocking”). The ice water will stop the cooking process and preserve the nutrients in your vegetables.
BRAISING A combination of both moist and dry-heat cooking, this technique tenderizes meat— usually tougher cuts like lamb shoulder. After pan-searing, leave it to simmer in a stock or acidic liquid like wine, beer, or tomatoes. The end result: delicate forkfuls that will melt in your mouth. HEAD TO BAKEDMAGAZINE.COM FOR MORE COOKING TECHNIQUES!
BE A #FOODPORN STAR ...because a picture is worth a thousand likes.
If you’ve ever aspired to be an Instagram sensation, now is your chance. We reached out to our favorite food bloggers, writers, and photographers for their pro tips. Take notes.
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“Photo processing apps are fun, but you don't need to go crazy with the filters. My favorite app is VSCO Cam, which has subtle films as well as tools to let you adjust white balance, lighting, and sharpness.” Stephanie Le, blogger and creator of i am a food blog | @iamafoodblog
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“Learn to edit. Only post pictures that really look great and represent your aesthetic. Don't just post every single food picture you take. Your feed needs to be well curated too!” Barrett Prendergast, chef and owner of catering company Valleybrink Road | @valleybrinkroad PHOTO: TERESA SABGA
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“Always use natural light which is ideally coming from one direction (like, put your plate of food next to a window).” Izy Hossack, blogger and creator of Top With Cinnamon | @topwithcinnamon
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“Go for the overhead shot. Upclose-and-personal shots of your carbonara with the phone held at an angle are so 2007 (I kid, but only partially). Stand on a chair or the table (shoes off, please!) and capture the spread or dish from above—that way, your viewer will feel like they’re observing a moment in time, not about to get a faceful of pasta.” Rochelle Bilow, associate web editor of Bon Appétit | @rochellebilow
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SWEET NO
The breakdown on five natural sweeteners. WORDS: FRIEDA PROJANSKY | PHOTO: JACKIE BARR
Whether or not you have a sweet tooth, odds are you consume sugar on a daily basis. The problem: sugar contains no nutrients, proteins, enzymes, or healthy fats. In fact, the fructose in table sugar causes more than just a crash—it provides empty calories and increases your appetite. The search for alternatives is on, but not all of them are harmless. With that in mind, we ranked the trendiest sweeteners from best to worst.
1. STEVIA This sweetener, which can be purchased as a liquid or powder, comes from the leaves of the stevia plant. With virtually no calories, it can lower both blood pressure and blood sugar levels. Though perfect for sweetening summer beverages like tea and lemonade, stevia has a bitter, metallic aftertaste, which may be its one downside. Thankfully, there are multiple brands to choose from.
2. HONEY Natural honey provides disease-fighting antioxidants that may reduce the risk of heart disease and cancer. With 40 percent fructose, it can work against weight loss—but don’t rule this classic out in small portions. Use honey by drizzling over nuts, adding to milkshakes, or spreading on toast with peanut butter.
3. YACON SYRUP This sugar substitute is derived from the South American yacon plant. It’s high in fructooligosaccharide sugar molecules—yes, a tongue-twister— which feed on good bacteria in the intestine. These molecules help fight constipation and benefit your metabolism, potentially leading to weight loss. Similar to molasses in consistency, yacon can be added to oatmeal and gingerbread. Keep in mind, however, that too much of this syrup may cause digestion problems.
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OTHINGS 4. XYLITOL & ERYTHRITOL All sweeteners ending in -ol are sugar alcohols extracted from plant products, which contain less fructose and fewer calories than table sugar. These two are considered safest to use, especially when pure. Purchased as granules or in powdered form, sugar alcohols can be substituted in baked goods like pies and cheesecake. Warning: as with yacon syrup, consuming excessive amounts of sugar alcohol can cause digestive complications.
5. AGAVE SYRUP Agave has a lower glycemic index than table sugar, which means it’s less likely to spike your blood pressure. Despite this benefit, its fructose level encourages more food consumption through empty calories. Labeled as natural, this syrup is processed and most commonly contains 80 percent fructose, so it’s metabolized in the same way as table sugar. If you do choose to consume agave (hopefully in its unprocessed form), it’s great in coffee and drizzled over fruit or yogurt.
spring 2015 | 9
RISE&
DINE
To honor the most important meal of the day, Baked polled over 200 students about their quirkiest breakfast habits.
WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE CEREAL CATCHPHRASE? They’reeeee great.
21%
Crunchatize me, Captain.
13%
I’m cuckoo for Cocoa Puffs.
11%
Snap, Crackle, Pop.
15%
Silly rabbit, Trix are for kids.
13%
They’re magically delicious.
21%
Gotta have my pops.
5%
BACON VS. SAUSAGE Bacon....72% Sausage....28%
BLOODY MARY VS. MIMOSA Bloody Mary....18% Mimosa....82%
Stella’s is most cited as a favorite Syracuse diner.
MY TOASTER SPENDS THE MOST TIME TOASTING: • Plantain • Cinnamon Raisin Ezekiel Bread • Chicken nuggets • Nothing. I don’t own a toaster. 10 | bakedmagazine.com
About 1 in every 3 students prefers their eggs scrambled. Omelets come in at a close second!
88%
of students love coffee—others swear by tea.
34%
of students say Starbucks is their caffeine companion.
WORDS: HALEY SCHLUTER
Move over, Tinder. We swipe right for these foodie sites. It’s important that the person you love loves what you love—corny or not, this is rather significant for a functional relationship. Remembering that dating should be the result of some mutual affections, let’s take a look at three websites that act as matchmakers for the most passionate of lovers out there: food lovers.
GLUTEN-FREE SINGLES If you’re gluten-free, it’s crucial that your partner is also gluten-free to avoid the inevitable argument that will ensue when someone decides to eat pizza on a romantic night out. With that in mind, some brilliant lad developed this dating website so gluten-intolerant folks could be removed from the nonCeliac dating pool once and for all. We just want our damn pasta, okay?!
SINGLES WITH FOOD ALLERGIES This website pairs members who have allergies to the most universally beloved foods. Two shellfish-intolerants can go on a date, so love can be found sans lobster. The deathly allergic "peanut chick" and the always annoying “allergic-to-all-forms-of-yeast" kid can find matches who are not put off by their dietary restrictions. Because everyone deserves love, especially those who cannot experience the sheer ecstasy that is peanut butter.
HIDINE This highly sexist and elitist website aims to prove that chivalry isn’t dead— it’s just handicapped—by providing wealthy old men who love “food” with women who also love “food” for a dinner date. Clearly based off of a mutual love for cuisine that is bound to satisfy, it asks the real questions needed to find love, like “How old are you?” and “What type of man are you looking for?” If your love for food perfectly matches up with someone else’s, then you’ll be set up on a date where “going Dutch” is highly against the rules. spring 2015 | 11
FROM SCRATCH In Italy, food acted as this student’s language, tearing down cultural and linguistic barriers. WORDS: RIDDLEY GEMPERLEIN-SCHIRM | PHOTOS: JACKIE BARR + RIDDLEY GEMPERLEIN-SCHIRM
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lour covers every inch of the kitchen. It will take hours to clean the fine white dust from each crevice of the room outfitted with only the essentials: a gas range stove, metal sink, fridge, and wooden table long enough to fit 10 people lying side-byside...or at least 400-plus ravioli. A meal to end all meals: this is what Italians call Sunday lunch. It’s the only day of the week when spending six hours eating, drinking, and talking is not only acceptable, but tradition. For my host family, Olivia and Gabrielle, this midday eating celebration is a once-a-month ordeal since Olivia doesn’t love hosting—it’s too stressful. “Leave it to people who cook much,” she says, in broken English. Her friend Lucia, whose ravioli are the stuff of legends, hosts instead. 12 | bakedmagazine.com
Today, generations of Italians across different families gather in Lucia’s farmhouse nestled in the hills of Tuscany, right outside of Florence. My host family invited me to partake in the prep for this grand feast at 2 p.m., despite my inability to communicate with them and lack of Italian cultural graces. The pasta machine whirls as Lucia cranks its handle. The off-yellow dough feeds through the roller’s successively smaller settings again and again until it’s a little thicker than paper. A family friend helms the filling. Once a sheet of pasta is finished, she places equal spoonfuls of parsley-studded whipped potatoes two inches from one another on the sheet’s closer edge, folding the dough over, sealing and cutting the ravioli, and then crimping the edges. There’s enough pasta to
feed a small village. But the six women buzzing around the kitchen aren’t just cooking—they’re meticulous about each and every raviolo. Cinghiale, or wild boar meat, infuses the kitchen with its gamy smell, having simmered for the better part of the morning in crushed tomatoes drowned in olive oil and garlic. It is cooked until tender enough to cut with a spoon. This will be the pasta’s sauce. Moments after walking into the kitchen, Lucia grabs me, pulling me into a comforting-yet-suffocating embrace. We kiss cheeks. “Lavora,” Lucia says, guiding me toward the ravioli table. Work. My mind reels. I have no idea what kind of lavora Lucia wants. She hands me a small, wooden-handled tool akin to a pizza wheel. I am to cut, using my index finger as a ruler. In Italy, food was my language. Forming connections was as simple as talking to my host family for hours at the dinner table every night, and as daunting as making 400 ravioli, having met everyone only seconds before. A week before heading to Italy to attend culinary school at the Florence University of the Arts, I tried to convince my parents to let me withdraw. Senior year was approaching, which meant
graduation, job searching, and the unshakable fear of impending failure in the severely niche marketplace of food writing. Sure, a 20-year-old questioning her career choice is nothing new, but it was for me. I have a fork and knife tattooed on my wrist. My parents poured all their money into journalism school and took out a second mortgage on their home to pay for internships. Questioning my career was not only disturbing, but devastating.
"Questioning my career was not only disturbing, but devastating." And yet I traveled, consequentially falling in love with Italian cuisine and food culture. That afternoon, I discovered why I love food: “To cook is to lay hands on the body of the world,” as John Thorne says in his book Simple Cooking. It is to feel. To be open, present, and vulnerable. Elbows deep in flour, frantically attempting to cut the ravioli into perfect, Italian-grandmother-approved squares, all I could say was, and is, “Grazie.”
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NOW AND
THEN
After a change in ownership, this stylish Skaneateles restaurant still pays homage to its storied history. WORDS: GABRIELA RICCARDI PHOTOS: COURTESY OF THE KREBS + THE SKANEATELES HISTORICAL SOCIETY
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resident Franklin Delano Roosevelt wasn’t said to have a polished palate. Creamed chipped beef and hearty chowders, syrup-speckled cornmeal mush, and the First Lady’s scrambled eggs were no strangers to the White House dinner table. When the King and Queen of England visited, the Roosevelts served hot dogs. Perhaps it was the homey atmosphere that drew FDR, then governor of New York, to the tidy, trim white terrace of The Krebs for dinner on a visit to quaint
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and quiet Skaneateles. Maybe it was the way the owners arranged it like a household, complete with bedrooms, or the way they presented seven-course meals without a menu. Since it first opened its doors in 1899, the restaurant has become a dining landmark—a Skaneateles mainstay known for its family atmosphere and delectable dishes. But with the death of longtime owner Jan Loveless in 2010, the little Finger Lakes town almost lost its historical jewel. Cora Krebs began selling her home-baked brownies and cakes to Skaneateles neighbors in the late 1800s, according to the town’s historical records, and eventually built a reputable business that would later become The Krebs. Ownership passed among sets of friends through the years, but following the death of Loveless, there was nobody willing to take on the business. And so the tidy, trim white terrace stood empty—until another family stepped in to salvage it. Adam Weitsman, owner of a billiondollar CNY scrap metal business, and his wife Kim, split their time between New York City and Skaneateles. The pair saw The Krebs as an opportunity to preserve and refine a cornerstone of Skaneateles history.
away from the family-style portions once served, opting instead for a tasting menu that harkens back to the restaurant’s seven-course roots. Johnson lines cocktails with cucumber peels and cinnamon sticks and frames main courses with upscale add-ins like brandade and guanciale. His goal: for The Krebs to be recognized as the best restaurant in America, or perhaps the first CNY restaurant to court a Michelin star. Gone, perhaps, is the small-home feel—the four-poster beds and humble hat racks—but in its place is a contemporary elegance. The Krebs adorns its new rooms with cool gray pigments, hammered metal mirrors, chic damask curtains, and tweedy textured table dressings.
"I tell people now that this is the one restaurant to pull me out of New York City." Austin Johnson EXECUTIVE CHEF, THE KREBS
The new owners poured more than four million dollars into renovating the establishment. More importantly, they hired master chef Austin Johnson from NoMad, a Michelin-starred NYC restaurant, to reinvent its menu.
But the new team hasn’t shifted the restaurant’s support beams—at its core, The Krebs is still about community. It’s joined the local food movement, looking to regional sources for ingredients. It pledges to give back to quaint and quiet Skaneateles by donating at least $100,000 annually to local charities.
“I tell people now that this is the one restaurant to pull me out of New York City,” Johnson says. He’s modified and modernized The Krebs’s menu, using his culinary experience in settings as diverse as an Alaskan fishing vessel to rethink classics like the restaurant’s famous Lobster Newburg. He’s steered
“We just want to maintain the integrity and the authenticity of what The Krebs has always been,” Johnson says. Though the staff, the menu, and the atmosphere have changed, the tidy, trim terrace still skirts the front of the Krebs, gleaming with what looks like a fresh coat of white paint. spring 2015 | 15
WINE A LITTLE Road trip! Taste your way through the Finger Lakes, making stops at the seven best vineyards the region has to offer. With rolling hills, gorgeous lakeside views, and wines that express its unique terroir, Finger Lakes Wine Country is quickly becoming a destination for vino lovers everywhere. Since we know a mere tasting isn’t sufficient, we’ve asked Wine Appreciation professor Tim Barr and culinary specialist Chris Uyehara for bottle recommendations.
1. ANYELA’S VINEYARDS Closest in distance to Syracuse, this elegant winery offers cheese and fruit plates that you can enjoy in its grand tasting room. Bottle to Buy: 2012 Riesling ($16)
2. HEART & HANDS WINE COMPANY The name is fitting: this vineyard is run by a husband and wife team and hand-picks its grapes. Bottle to Buy: 2013 Riesling ($18)
3. SWEDISH HILL WINERY
With its complimentary tour of the facilities after Memorial Day (and a famous miniature donkey!), this quaint winery is worth the lengthy drive. Bottle to Buy: 2010 Late Harvest Vignoles ($23)
4. LAMOREAUX LANDING WINE CELLARS If you love sipping bubbly with your pinky in the air, this is the place for you. Bottle to Buy: 2007 Blanc de Blanc ($30)
5. HERMANN J. WIEMER VINEYARD One of the oldest and most respected vineyards in the Finger Lakes, this winery makes what is widely considered to be some of the best riesling in America. Bottle to Buy: Reserve Dry Riesling 2013 ($29)
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6. GLENORA WINE CELLARS This vineyard’s signature bottle is both sweet and cheap—perfect for the college student whose Wine Wednesdays are limited to Barefoot. Bottle to Buy: Niagara ($10)
7. DR. KONSTANTIN FRANK VINIFERA WINE CELLARS Riesling may be the drink of choice when it comes to the Finger Lakes, but this fourth generation winery also produces a great chardonnay. Bottle to Buy: Chardonnay 2012 ($15) 16 | bakedmagazine.com
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6
(OR A LOT)
SYRACUSE
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spring 2015 | 17
into the
woods At our sister school SUNYESF, faculty and students are doing more than just hugging trees. They’re saving an American species from extinction, tapping for treasure where you’d least expect it, and fueling new generations with the tools to be health-conscious consumers. Read on to learn how our neighbors are getting their hands dirty.
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INTO THE WOODS
Seeds of Change Urban gardens are an oasis in a food desert. WORDS: TERESA SABGA ILLUSTRATION: LISE SUKHU
spring 2015 | 19
A
banging noise pulsates through the walls of Dr. King Elementary School. Fists fire toward the ceiling as others come crashing down—this is the sound of 25 second graders smashing Oreos. Each student is required to answer a question about soil and composting to earn the other components of the “Dirt and Worms” snack activity: pudding (soil), gummy worms (red wrigglers), and sprinkles (nutrients). This exercise marks the year’s first lesson taught by SUNY-ESF’s studentrun club, the Student Environmental Education Coalition (SEEC). Since the fall of 2011, SEEC has worked with Julia Yeatts, a second grade teacher at Dr. King, to create supplementary hands-on lessons based on her classroom’s curriculum. “When the kids have something to touch, they connect with it and see themselves as special,” Yeatts says. Every Monday, the club’s 20 active members teach Dr. King’s students about nutrition and the value of fresh food by building raised beds and gardening. SEEC President Olivia Donachie sees this partnership playing an essential role in the battle against a much larger issue than education. "Kids come to school with breakfast, but it's usually soda and Cheetos," Donachie says. "Before we started this program, they had no idea what real food was because they're technically in a food desert." The USDA declared Syracuse a food desert due to the city’s disparities
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in food access. There are no stores selling healthful foods within walking distance of Dr. King in Syracuse’s South Side, leaving residents without access to fresh fruits and vegetables. Lack of transportation forces residents to eat fast food, canned goods, and soda, as these are the only affordable and available food items in surrounding bodegas and gas stations. Syracuse is generally a poor, workingclass city—one divided by racial and socioeconomic inequalities. The story of segregation in this city mirrors that of America. In the 60s and 70s, the nation experienced white flight—white people leaving urban cities—creating dense urban areas that were and still are economically depressed and racially segregated. The supermarket industry followed these demographic trends by fleeing cities for suburban settlements and undergoing shifts in vertical integration, or supermarkets’ ownership of their own supply chains. “Wegmans in Fayetteville is the perfect example of this,” says Evan Weissman, assistant professor of food studies at Syracuse University. “It’s located in affluent suburbs, but noticeably, it’s also located directly on the Interstate, so the trucks bringing products to market can get there quickly.” Three years ago, Wegmans decided to close its North Side grocery store, which opened in 1970. The Pond Street branch was the smallest store in the entire supermarket chain, which catered to generations of residents, senior citizens, and a
INTO THE WOODS growing immigrant population. At this time, the Erie Boulevard PriceRite and the Tops Friendly Markets near South Campus had not yet opened, leaving the most destitute neighborhoods in desperation. Since then, city officials have made proposals and efforts to restore food access for the future.
"We need access to grocery stores. No one should be denied of that." Evan Weissman ASSISTANT PROFESSOR OF FOOD STUDIES AT SU
Thankfully, a food desert’s narrative isn’t all doom and gloom—it’s also about grassroot efforts working to create alternatives. “We need access to grocery stores—no one should be denied of that,” Weissman says. “But I think that there are many cool initiatives out there.” One of these initiatives is Helping Hands, an after-school garden project run by the non-profit communitybased organization Concerned Citizens Action Program. With the help of volunteers from both Helping Hands and SEEC, Dr. King students have learned how to prepare, plant, and harvest their own vegetables. In the winter, they grow seedlings in hydroponic systems to continue the organizations’ efforts year-round. Former Common Councilor for the Fourth District and Helping Hands President Mike Atkins built the urban
garden of five raised beds at Dr. King in 2011, fueling the growth of SEEC and neighborhood youth engagement. “New York City is a place where no land is being used to grow produce, yet every single bodega has a storefront packed with fruits,” Atkins says. “There, I can find an apple within one block, but I can’t in Syracuse where agriculture is the number one career and commodity. It’s 2015. We need change.” Atkins plans to complete the construction of an urban garden on the corner of South State Street and Raynor Avenue. High tunnels will be built for indoor year-round gardening of collard greens, lettuce, tomatoes, and herbs. A tent will host weekly farmers markets, holiday and community farm events, health counseling, and healthy eating programs. “When the kids are in the soil and seeing their food grow, they take ownership,” Yeatts says of Dr. King’s gardening programs. She laughs as she describes how the children consider SEEC members “the scientists.” Her second grade classroom is now known as the “goto science room,” where all science questions will be answered. “It’s amazing how connected these kids are and how passionate they’ve become about the soil,” Yeatts says. “I have former students from four years ago come back to this classroom and ask, ‘Hey, are you still doing that thing? Where’s SEEC?’ So clearly their efforts have made a mark.”
spring 2015 | 21
CRACKING THE
CODE Using genetic modification, researchers are working toward a full revival of the American chestnut tree.
WORDS: AUDREY MORGAN PHOTOS: NATALIE MONTESANO
O
ver the past 25 years, SUNY-ESF professors William Powell and Charles Maynard have led research to develop a blight-resistant American chestnut tree. While the project could restore the chestnut to the kind of cultural prominence suggested by a famous Christmas song, it has drawn criticism from those who fear the unintended consequences of releasing a genetically engineered plant into the wild. The restoration of the American chestnut tree to the forest ecosystems of the eastern United States is an ongoing project rooted in history. About 100 years ago, the species was among the most common trees in the eastern forests. When Americans began importing Asian species 22 | bakedmagazine.com
of the chestnut tree around the turn of the 20th century, a disease that had previously co-evolved with the Asian species killed off three to five billion American chestnut trees within the next 50 years. “Our idea was, ‘Is there some gene out there that could make this tree resistant to the blight?’” Powell says. “We want to change the tree in a way that would only change blight resistance but nothing else in the tree. That way we get all the benefits and none of the risks because it's a tree that was already out there.” Researchers have found a gene in bread wheat that detoxifies an acid produced by the blight’s fungus to attack the tree. The gene doesn’t kill the fungus as a pesticide would, but simply keeps the fungus from killing the tree.
INTO THE WOODS “The fungus can still live on the bark of the tree," Powell says. "Therefore it's very unlikely that it would ever develop any ability to overcome this type of resistance, because we're not actually putting any selective pressure on the fungus itself.” The new species, though genetically altered, will still have the benefits of the original. Its crop will feed wildlife from deer to blue jays; its rot-resistant wood could be used for wood products in place of pressure-treated wood, which is made using a number of chemicals. With a project called the Ten Thousand Chestnut Challenge, researchers hope to raise money to plant 10,000 chestnut trees in a controlled environment. The eventual goal: to return the species to its native habitat. Despite much support, the project has received its share of criticism. Those against the use of genetically modified organisms (GMOs) have condemned research efforts, according to Syracuse.com. Jim Minor, president of the New York Forest Owners Association, said his organization has not taken an official stance on the project, citing one member who believes the researchers will lose control of the genetically modified plant once it is released into the wild. His personal position, however, is one of “cautious optimism.” “Some people don’t want Frankentrees out in the forests. They want things perfectly natural,” Minor says. “The problem is the forest is not the way it is naturally because of all these invasive blights and pathogens we’ve introduced.” Powell counters criticisms of genetic engineering, saying that the blight-resistant chestnut will in fact be better for the environment than hybrid chestnuts created through crossbreeding.
“Hybrid trees don't have to be regulated, but they are mixing together tens of thousands of genes,” Powell says. “We are moving just a couple genes into this tree to find resistance, so we're making a very small change. And we think our tree will actually benefit the environment more than those other trees, which have a lot of traits that are not going to benefit the environment.” Researchers are also testing to make sure the genetically engineered trees aren’t impacting the environment differently than those found in nature. Their tests include assessments of the trees’ effects on leaf litter decomposition and insect larvae, which prefer chestnut leaves to oak leaves. Lab manager Kathleen Baier, who has been working on the project for eight years, says she is frustrated by the notion that genetically engineered organisms are an experiment with unknown implications. “They are tested, they are tested, they are tested, they are tested,” Baier says. “And now we have five more years of testing before anybody will be able to consider planting these trees. So they will have been tested for about 20 years by that point. People say it's an experiment—that it's untested—and that just isn't the truth.” Powell hopes the chestnut project can serve as a model for the genetic engineering of other tree species that have fallen victim to disease. “Our forests are under extreme stress from pests and pathogens. We need our full toolbox to fight this, and genetic engineering is one of those tools we can use,” Powell says. “The chestnut blight was brought over by people, so why shouldn’t we go back and fix it?”
spring 2015 || 23 23 fall 2014
The GivingTree For some students, money really does grow on trees.
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INTO THE WOODS
WORDS: NORA HORVATH PHOTOS: TERESA SABGA
From the middle of February to the end of March, during prime sap collection time, SUNY-ESF students and staff tap for and produce maple syrup and maple butter at Tully’s Heiberg Memorial Forest to be sold at the ESF bookstore. Proceeds from the store, managed by the ESF Alumni Association, fund both need and meritbased scholarships for students at the university. It takes 40 gallons of sap and a long day’s work to make just one gallon of syrup. We followed southern forest property manager Mark Appleby through the grueling—but ultimately rewarding—process.
spring 2015 | 25
INTO THE WOODS
TO LEARN ABOUT THE PROCESS AND VIEW MORE PHOTOS, GO TO BAKEDMAGAZINE.COM. 26 | bakedmagazine.com
S U M M E R = L O V I N' The sun’s out and that long, brutal winter is just a distant memory. Reach into our beach bag for your summer essentials, own the grill at outdoor gatherings, and cool down with our favorite frozen treats. Here’s to a season you’re sure to savor.
spring 2015 || 27 27 fall 2014
Take our recipes to the grill for the hottest summer cookouts. PHOTOS: TERESA SABGA
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SUMMER LOVIN'
spring 2015 | 29
SERVES: 4 TIME: 55 minutes INGREDIENTS • 1 lime, juiced • 1 can light beer • 1 teaspoon honey • 2 cloves garlic, minced • 2 tablespoons cilantro, chopped • 4 boneless chicken breasts DIRECTIONS 1. Preheat grill to medium and lightly oil the grate. 2. In a medium-sized bowl, combine lime juice, beer, honey, garlic, cilantro, salt, and pepper until honey dissolves. Toss the chicken in mixture and marinate for 30 minutes. 3. Place chicken on grill and cook until tender. Serve immediately. (Adapted from allrecipes.com.)
FOR OUR BELL PEPPER, ONION, AND PESTO CROSTINI RECIPE, GO TO BAKEDMAGAZINE.COM.
30 | bakedmagazine.com
SUMMER LOVIN'
spring 2015 | 31
SERVES: 4 TIME: 35 minutes INGREDIENTS • 1½ pounds ground beef • 1 clove garlic, minced • 1 teaspoon hot sauce • 4 strips bacon, diced • ½ onion, chopped • 1 cup sharp cheddar, grated • 4 burger buns • Lettuce, tomato, pickles • Salt and pepper DIRECTIONS 1. Preheat grill to medium. 2. In a large bowl, combine beef, garlic, hot sauce, salt, and pepper. Form 4 thick burgers and set aside. 3. In a large skillet over medium heat, fry bacon until crispy. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Keep skillet on the stovetop and sauté onions in bacon fat until tender, about 5 minutes. 4. In a medium bowl, mix onions, bacon, and cheese. Place a spoonful of the bacon-cheese mixture into the center of each patty. 5. Grill burgers over medium-high heat, approximately 4 minutes each side for medium. Serve in buns with desired garnishes. (Adapted from foodnetwork.com.) 32 | bakedmagazine.com
SUMMER LOVIN'
spring 2015 | 33
SUMMER LOVIN'
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SERVES: 4 TIME: 35 minutes INGREDIENTS • 2 tomatoes, diced • 1 ball fresh mozzarella, diced • ¼ cup basil, chopped • 2 cloves garlic, minced and separated • 2 tablespoons olive oil • 1 pound flank steak • Salt and pepper DIRECTIONS 1. In a medium bowl, toss tomatoes, mozzarella, basil, and 1 clove of minced garlic in 1 tablespoon olive oil. Cover and refrigerate. 2. Preheat grill to medium-high. Place steak in large resealable bag and add 1 clove of minced garlic, 1 tablespoon of olive oil, salt, and pepper. Seal the bag and let it marinate for at least 10 minutes. 3. Grill steak to desired degree of doneness, and serve with salad. (Adapted from allrecipes.com.)
VISIT BAKEDMAGAZINE.COM FOR THE BEST RUBS AND MARINADES. spring | 35 fall2015 2014 |A
SERVES: 10 TIME: 20 minutes INGREDIENTS • 10 graham crackers • ⅓ cup Nutella • ⅓ cup marshmallow fluff • 3 bananas, thinly sliced • 3 tablespoons hazelnuts, chopped DIRECTIONS 1. Preheat grill to medium. 2. Break graham crackers in half. Spread Nutella on one half and marshmallow fluff on the other. Top with sliced bananas and hazelnuts. Sandwich crackers together. 3. Wrap s’mores in parchment paper and then in aluminum foil. Grill for about 10 minutes, until fluff is gooey and slightly toasted. Remove from foil and serve. (Adapted from foodandwine.com.)
FOR 10 UNUSUAL THINGS TO GRILL, HEAD TO BAKEDMAGAZINE.COM. 36 bakedmagazine.com 36 | bakedmagazine.com
SUMMER LOVIN'
spring 2015| |37 37 fall 2014
SUMMER LOVIN'
BAKED'S BEACH BAG Stock up on these editors' picks for your next trip to paradise.
HEALTHY CHOICE Great news for your bikini bod: secretly healthy Terra Real Vegetable Chips will satisfy your junk food cravings. (Terrachips.com, $7)
REQUIRED READING The memoir Bon Appétempt: A Coming-Of-Age Story (with Recipes!) follows the culinary efforts of author Amelia Morris, who learns life lessons through her kitchen failures. (Barnes & Noble, $25)
SEASIDE CARRYALL Keep things light or lug your life to the shore with Kestrel’s “Congress” Vinyl Tote, aka the most versatile bag under the sun. (Nordstrom, $144)
POWER UP Health Warrior’s Coconut Chia Bars contain superfood benefits with some tropical sweetness. (Luckyvitamin.com, $1)
SWEET DEAL Peeled Snacks’ Much-Ado-About-Mango unloads chewy fruity greatness right from a bag. (Peeledsnacks.com, $3)
GO NUTS Thai Lime and Chili Almonds from Trader Joe's provide that spicy kick you need to get off your beach towel. (Trader Joe’s, $6)
LAY LOW Tuffo’s Water-Resistant Outdoor Blanket comes with a carrying case, which makes it ideal for on-the-go activity—rain or shine, sand or sea. (Bedbathandbeyond.com, $40)
CRUNCH TIME Angie’s BOOMCHICKAPOP Kettle Corn Popcorn will complement your seaside adventures with its addictive combination of salty and sweet. (Boomchickapop. com, $5)
CHIP AND DIP Sabra’s Classic Hummus with Pretzels twoin-one single packs are perfect for outdoor dipping. (Price varies by store)
HAPPY TRAILS Snack on Archer Farms Monster Trail Mix for energy to stay active in the water, or simply to lie in the sun—because that’s hard work too. (Target, $7)
ICE, ICE BABY Adios, lukewarm water. This stainless steel Hydroflask Water Bottle guarantees ice cold water all day long. (hydroflask.com, $34)
SUCK
IT. These pops are worth the brain freeze.
PHOTO: JACKIE BARR Each recipe calls for a 12-mold popsicle tray.
40 | bakedmagazine.com
BLUEBERRY ORANGE POPSICLES INGREDIENTS • 1 cup blueberries • 2 oranges, juiced • ¾ cup coconut milk • ½ cup coconut water
DIRECTIONS Add blueberries, orange juice, coconut milk, and coconut water to a blender and pulse until smooth and combined. Pour mixture into popsicle molds. Freeze until solidified. Serve cold.
BLACKBERRY LEMON FROZEN YOGURT POPSICLES INGREDIENTS • 1 lemon peel • ½ cup water • ½ cup sugar • 1½ cups plain yogurt • 2 tablespoons honey • 2 cups blackberries
DIRECTIONS In a medium saucepan over medium heat, add sugar and water and bring to a boil. Add lemon peel and lower heat. Continue to simmer for 5 minutes, then refrigerate. Add yogurt and honey to cooled syrup; stir to combine. Fold in blackberries and pour mixture into popsicle molds. Freeze until solidified. Serve cold.
SUMMER LOVIN' SWEET PEACH ICED TEA POPSICLES INGREDIENTS • 1 medium peach • 3 cups sweet tea
DIRECTIONS Rinse and thinly slice the peach. Place 1 to 2 slices into each mold and pour tea over slices. Freeze until solidified. Serve cold.
STRAWBERRY WATERMELON POPSICLES
AVOCADO LIME POPSICLES
INGREDIENTS • 2 cups fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced • 2 cups watermelon, cubed • ⅓ cup agave syrup
• ½ cup agave syrup • 1 cup water • 2 avocados, sliced • 3 tablespoons lime juice • Pinch of salt
DIRECTIONS
DIRECTIONS
Mix strawberries, watermelon, and agave syrup together in a blender until smooth and combined. Pour mixture into popsicle molds. Freeze until solidified. Serve cold.
INGREDIENTS
Mix agave syrup and water together until dissolved. Pour mixture into blender. Add remaining ingredients and pulse until smooth and combined. Pour mixture into popsicle molds. Freeze until solidified. Serve cold.
spring 2015 | 41
PAINTYOUR
PALATE It’s been a long winter—taste the rainbow with these menus straight off the color wheel. PHOTOS: JACKIE BARR
42 | bakedmagazine.com
THE RECIPAGES
STRAWBERRY AVOCADO SALAD Serves: 1 Time: 10 minutes
• In a small bowl, whisk together the sugar, olive oil, honey, vinegar, and lemon juice. Set aside.
2 tablespoons sugar • Place greens in a separate bowl and 2 tablespoons olive oil top with avocado and strawberry slices. 4 teaspoons honey Drizzle dressing over top and serve. 1 tablespoon vinegar 1 teaspoon lemon juice 1 cup spinach 1 cup romaine lettuce 1 avocado, peeled, pitted, and sliced 10 strawberries, hulled and sliced
SUMMER GAZPACHO Serves: 8 Time: 40 minutes 1½ pounds ripe tomatoes 2 slices day-old bread 1 medium cucumber 1 shallot 2 cloves garlic 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar ¼ cup olive oil Salt and pepper
• Quarter tomatoes and remove stems.
Tear bread into large chunks. Peel and roughly chop cucumber, shallots, and garlic.
• Place bread pieces into a food processor or blender. Squeeze tomato quarters over the bread, then add them to the food processor. Let sit for 15 minutes.
• Pulse tomatoes and bread until they form a rough porridge. Add cucumber, shallots, garlic, vinegar, and ½ teaspoon salt. Repeat until mixture is smooth.
• With the blender running, stream in olive oil. • Chill the soup for 2 to 4 hours. Serve cold. (Adapted from thekitchn.com.)
HEAD TO BAKEDMAGAZINE.COM FOR OUR STRAWBERRY HIBISCUS ICED TEA LEMONADE RECIPE. spring 2015 | 43
44 | bakedmagazine.com
THE RECIPAGES
SALTED-ROSEMARY BEET CHIPS Serves: 4 Time: 30 minutes 3 beets, rinsed and scrubbed 1 tablespoon olive oil 3 sprigs rosemary, chopped Salt and pepper
• Preheat oven to 375°. • Slice beets thinly. Place beets on a baking sheet and lightly drizzle with olive oil. Add a pinch of salt and the rosemary. Toss to coat and arrange in a single layer, spacing each slice 1 inch apart.
• Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until crispy and slightly brown.
• Remove from oven. Let cool, then serve. (Adapted from minimalistbaker.com.)
GRILLED SALMON + BLUEBERRY PAN SAUCE Serves: 2 Time: 40 minutes 1 tablespoon olive oil ¾ cup shallots, sliced 1 clove garlic, sliced ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon thyme, chopped ⅛ teaspoon ground allspice 1 cup fresh blueberries ¼ cup water 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 4 (7 oz.) salmon fillets with skin 3 tablespoons mint, chopped
• In a large skillet over medium heat, add 1 tablespoon oil and shallots. Sauté until tender, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, salt, thyme, pepper, and allspice; stir for 30 seconds. Add blueberries, water, and vinegar. Using the back of your fork, mash berries and cook until sauce thickens. Set aside and let cool.
• Coat salmon with oil, salt, thyme, allspice, and black pepper. On a grill pan over medium-high heat, cook salmon until just opaque in center, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Remove from heat and transfer to plates.
• Stir 2 tablespoons chopped mint leaves into blueberry sauce. Spoon sauce over salmon, sprinkle with remaining mint, and serve. (Adapted from bonappetit.com.)
HEAD TO BAKEDMAGAZINE.COM FOR OUR BLACKBERRY GIN AND TONIC RECIPE. spring 2015 | 45
46 | bakedmagazine.com
THE RECIPAGES
PESTO CHICKEN SALAD LETTUCE WRAPS Serves: 10 Time: 20 minutes 4 boneless chicken breasts ¼ cup + 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons lemon juice ½ cup pesto ¼ cup Asiago cheese, grated 3 tablespoons basil, chopped 10 large lettuce leaves
• In a medium skillet over medium heat, warm 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Add chicken and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Sear for 6 to 10 minutes, or until cooked through. Once cooked on both sides, remove from pan. Let cool before dicing.
• In a medium bowl, combine olive oil,
pesto, lemon juice, cheese, and basil. Add cubed chicken and mix until chicken is fully coated with pesto dressing.
• Spoon pesto chicken into a lettuce leaf and top with cheese. Wrap and serve cold. Repeat with remaining lettuce and pesto chicken.
CUCUMBER AVOCADO TOAST Serves: 4 Time: 5 minutes 4 slices multigrain bread ½ cucumber, sliced 2 avocados
• Lightly toast multigrain bread until golden brown.
• Halve avocados and mash onto bread. Top with cucumber slices and drizzle with olive oil, if desired.
TEQUILA MINT LEMONADE Serves: 2 Time: 15 minutes 8 lemons, juiced ½ cup sugar 1½ cups water 4 ounces tequila ¼ cup seltzer water 2 slices lemon 10 mint leaves
• In a medium saucepan over medium
heat, combine sugar and water to make simple syrup. Bring to a boil and simmer. Let cool.
• In a large pitcher, combine ice cubes,
lemon juice, simple syrup, mint leaves, tequila, lemon slices, and seltzer. Serve cold.
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THE RECIPAGES
STRAWBERRY MILK WHOOPIE PIES Serves: 15 Time: 40 minutes FOR THE SHELLS: 2¼ cups all-purpose flour 1½ teaspoons baking powder ¼ teaspoon salt 8 tablespoons vegetable shortening ¾ cup powdered strawberry milk mix ½ cup brown sugar 1 whole egg 1 egg white 1 cup heavy cream 2 tablespoons milk 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon white vinegar FOR THE FILLING: 3 cups confectioners sugar 1 cup unsalted butter, softened 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• Preheat oven to 375° and line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
• In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, salt, and baking powder. Set aside.
• Using a hand mixer, combine vegetable shortening, strawberry milk powder, and brown sugar, until crumbly. Add the egg and the egg white to the mixture and beat well. Add the heavy cream; mix until smooth.
• In a ramekin, combine milk, baking soda,
and vinegar. Stir until mixture foams. Add baking soda mixture to the batter, then add flour mixture. Mix on low speed until thick and combined.
• Pour mixture into a piping bag and pipe batter into 2-inch rounds. Bake for 7 to 10 minutes, until cakes are golden around the edges.
• Using a hand mixer on low speed, mix confectioners sugar, butter, and vanilla extract until just combined. Whip at high speed until light and fluffy. Sandwich filling between two whoopie pie shells and serve. (Adapted from sprinklebakes.com.)
WATERMELON MOJITO Serves: 1 Time: 5 minutes
• Muddle watermelon cubes, lime juice, and
¼ cup watermelon, cubed 1 lime, juiced 2 teaspoons sugar 2 mint leaves 2 ounces white rum 4 ounces ginger ale
• Stir in a handful of mint leaves. Add white
sugar in a glass. rum, ice, and ginger ale.
HEAD TO BAKEDMAGAZINE.COM FOR OUR ROASTED STRAWBERRY BUTTERMILK SHERBERT RECIPE. spring 2015 | 49
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THE RECIPAGES
LEMON CREPES + HONEY RICOTTA Serves: 6 Time: 90 minutes 1 cup all-purpose flour 4 large eggs 3 tablespoons butter, melted ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 2 teaspoons lemon juice 1½ cups milk ½ cup + 1 tablespoon sugar ½ cup water 1 cup ricotta 1 tablespoon honey ½ teaspoon lemon zest, grated
• Blend the flour, eggs, butter, salt, lemon juice, milk, and 1 tablespoon of sugar until foamy. Refrigerate for up to 1 day.
• In a saucepan, boil water and the remaining ½ cup sugar, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Add lemon slices and simmer until tender and translucent, 5 to 7 minutes. Let cool.
• Lightly butter a medium skillet over medium heat and add ¼ cup crepe batter. Swirl it around until it completely covers the bottom of the pan. Cook 2 to 3 minutes until golden brown. Flip crepe and continue to cook 1 to 2 minutes more. Repeat with rest of batter.
• In a separate bowl, combine ricotta, honey, and lemon zest. Spread ricotta mixture on crepes and fold inward. Serve with lemon slices and honey. (Adapted from realsimple.com.)
LEMON MARGARITAS Serves: 1 Time: 5 minutes 1½ ounces lemon juice 1½ ounces tequila 1 ounce triple sec Salt for rimming the glass
• Rub the rim of a glass with lemon juice and coat in salt.
• Shake together the lemon juice, tequila, and triple sec in a cocktail shaker for about 10 seconds.
• Pour over ice into glass. (Adapted from whiteonricecouple.com.)
HEAD TO BAKEDMAGAZINE.COM FOR OUR CRUSTLESS CAULIFLOWER QUICHE RECIPE. spring 2015 | 51
Parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme... How well do you know your herbs?
1.SAGE 2.OREGANO 3.DILL 4.ROSEMARY 5.THYME 6.PARSLEY
52 || bakedmagazine.com 52 PHOTO: bakedmagazine.com JACKIE BARR
FOOD FOR FUEL
HARDER, BETTER, FASTER, STRONGER
WORDS: RENEE CHERRY | PHOTO: TERESA SABGA
Meet Steph Skilton, the SU soccer star who makes a killer veggie omelet. Name: Steph Skilton Sport: Soccer Hometown: Auckland, New Zealand Age: 20 Height: 5’9” Weight: 141 lbs. Position: Center Forward Total Goals for ‘Cuse: 17 Total Goals at FIFA U-20 Women’s World Cup: 2 Steph Skilton is only a sophomore, yet she’s already played twice in the FIFA U-20 Women’s World Cup—her team was the first in New Zealand to make it out of its group stage. Less obvious than Steph’s passion for soccer is her love of food. Growing up, she learned to cook by helping her mom in the kitchen, and looks forward to making dinner with her roommate every evening after practice. Naturally, we were curious about the diet of a World Cup athlete, so we found out what fuels Steph on the field. Breakfast of Champions: Protein shake and banana Typical Lunch: Turkey or chicken salad wrap What She’s Cooking: Stir-fry, roasted vegetables with chicken or steak, burrito bowls Favorite Food: Lasagna Sweet On: Mint-flavored chocolate Drink of Choice: Coffee Snack Obsession: Hummus and pretzels Weirdest Combo: Marmite and avocado on toast or crackers Claim to Fame: Omelets and Pad Thai
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