Auxiliary Magazine - December 09
December/January 09/10 Issue of Auxiliary Magazine. Download a free pdf of the issue or purchase a print copy on our website.
a different winter boudoir lingerie rotersand jeffree star wet style DECEMBER 2009 editor s letter mission statement First I’d like to say, welcome to our one-year anniversary issue! We’ve been releasing Auxiliary for a whole year now; I can’t believe it, time flies. Though a lot has changed in the last year, and Auxiliary has undergone a lot of development. But through it all I can very soundly say that we have stuck to our vision. The buzz around the Auxiliary gang is that this is our best issue yet, and I agree. It is a clearer, more on point, better realization of the same vision we had this time last year. We’ve come a long way to get here, and we’ve had a lot of fun doing it. We’ve been able to include some great features and work with some great people in the past six issues. I invite you to look through our back issues, all available for free on our website. One of the themes of this issue has been looking back at the last decade. In this issue we have a music decade retrospective and a couple of articles reviewing the past ten years. But while we contemplate and draw from the past, even more so we are looking to the future. We have some ambitious plans for Auxiliary over the next few months. Some of which we’ve started to realize. Since our last issue we have launched a new website and started to publish content on it much more frequently. If you haven’t already, be sure to check it out. You will also find references to additional web content throughout this issue; many of our articles have extra content online. Another theme of this issue is the winter and holiday season, we have a couple photo editorials and articles in this vein that will get you ready for the next couple of months. Altogether our one-year anniversary issue has become a blend of retrospection and anticipation of what is to come. Now that we have developed through one year, we plan to continue to develop and work to push Auxiliary to the next level. I would like to take the chance to thank everyone for their support over the last year and hope you will stay with us for the next year to come. Auxiliary Magazine. auxiliary = alternative, supplementary, to provide what is missing, to give support. ‘ We have always had a love for the different, the unique, the creative. But from all sides we’ve heard what we love is on it’s way out, is suffering, is dying, is dead. Today an alternative aesthetic is seen more than ever. Yet the core, the base, the scene; everyone is telling us is in a sad state. Reality is what you make it. Our goal is to provide high quality fashion editorials, photographs, and articles; unique reviews and insights on the best media out there; and to create discussion and passion about alternative subcultures. There is a lot of amazing and creative stuff happening. We hope to find it, highlight it, and encourage it to grow. That is why we’ve created Auxiliary Magazine; an online and print magazine dedicated to fashion, music, and lifestyle with a darker aesthetic. There are no other boundaries than that. That is the strong point of alternative culture; and we hope to include it all. And that is a lot of ground to cover. So contribute! Send us your fashion, your music, your events, your opinions, your projects, your ideas. This magazine isn’t for a select few, we don’t know it all, this magazine is for you and what we all love. Sincerely, Jennifer Link contributors Staff Contributors Photographs / Illustrations Editor in Chief Jennifer Link Aaron Andrews Luke Copping darkNES DJ Franck Hbomb EJTower Meagan Hendrickson Mike Kieffer Vanity Kills Jennifer Link Rachel Mazurek Paul Morin Darren M. Orlowski Numi Prasarn Sally Reardon Lizz Schumer Photographers Jennifer Link www.jennifer-link.com Luke Copping www.lukecopping.com Joey B www.joeybphotography.com Steve Prue www.teamrockstarimages.com Candylust www.candylust.org Fashion Editor Meagan Hendrickson Music Editor Mike Kieffer Associate Editor Luke Copping Copy Editor Jenny Santomauro Images on 25 Le Samurai courtesy of the Criterion Collection Hard Core Logo courtesy Liane Hentscher/Shadow Shows Inc. Illustration on 28 - Alec Lewellyn Photographs on 34 and 35 - Jennifer Link www.auxiliarymagazine.com email : firstname.lastname@example.org Graphic Design issue 7 : december 2009 ISSN 1948-9676 Logo Design Melanie Beitel No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, without the permission in writting from the publisher, except small excerpts for review purposes. Submitted work, reviews, ads, and photographs are copyrighted by their respective owners and fall under previous declaration. Copyright Auxiliary Magazine 2009. Layout Design Jennifer Link Luke Copping Kristen Szramkowski AUXILIARY december 2009 Illustrations on 13, 22, 26 and 27 Maki Naro www.page8productions.com 2 Instructional Photographs on 37, 38, and 39 Distilled Minds Studios www.distilledminds.com Illustrations on 36, 37, 38, and 39 Lina Gonzalez www.lina-g.com Advertising email : email@example.com for our 2010 advertisers guide or with any other inquires contents on the cove rotersand jeffree star boudoir lingerie wet style : : : : 14 29 48 04 Photographer : Luke Copping Stylist : Meagan Hendrickson Makeup : Rachel Mazurek Hair : Jennifer Buscaglia Model : Kerry Quaile beauty media 4 wet style and accessories that will withstand the wet and cold of winter 12 update the 80s punk rocker 13 the naughty list beauty picks for the holiday 25 the essentials : Hard Core Logo and Le SamouraĂŻ lifestyle 26 decade debate : where we are now jet packs vs. electric cars 28 my life as a goth girl 29 the PinUp Jeffree Star in Trash and Vaudville music 14 Rotersand 17 music reviews Bauhaus, v01d, Bad Lieutenant, Ikon, Assemblage 23 and more 19 guest music review darkNES of The Gothsicles 19 quick picks 20 decade retrospective a look at the last 10 years in music 22 WAV, AIFF, MP3, FLAC... WTF? a survival guide for todayâ€™s audio formats 23 DJ tracks : DJ Franck Hbomb of Das Bunker fashion 34 style dangerous curves ahead! 36 make it yours three DIY gift ideas 40 paperdoll 46 designer feature : spragwerks organic mechanic jewelry 48 boudoir 18th century inspired lingerie 54 winter manor stylish yet functional outerwear 63 where to buy editorial 24 the medium is the manifesto 3 december 2009 AUXILIARY wet photographer Luke Copping fashion stylist Meagan Hendrickson makeup artist Rachel Mazurek hair stylist Jennifer Buscaglia models Samantha Sham and Kerry Quaile assistant Cris Puccia THIS PAGE Epershand Necklace curvy ampersand pendant by Isette. december 2009 AUXILIARY THIS PAGE Black Vapid word pendant by Isette. AUXILIARY december 2009 THIS PAGE Avant Garde Typography Necklace in red acrylic by Plastique. december 2009 AUXILIARY THIS PAGE Mustache Love Necklace with heart detail by Isette. AUXILIARY december 2009 THIS PAGE Golden Ratio Earrings with 9mm Inverted Suspension Diamond Ring both by Plastique. december 2009 AUXILIARY THIS PAGE Black Turgid word pendant by Isette. AUXILIARY december 2009 THIS PAGE CBSTâ€™s Closet Diamond Necklace in white acrylic. BEAUTY TIP To beat the wet and cold of winter try Lip Tar by Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics. december 2009 AUXILIARY update BEAUTY making the old new again author Rachel Mazurek photographer Luke Copping makeup artist Rachel Mazurek hair stylist Erin Moser model Erin Moser Rock stars like Cyndi Lauper and Dale Bozzio defined the hybrid look during the 80s. It mixes elements of new wave, punk, and pop for a versatile, trendsetting style that rolls previous genres into one fashionable and experimental melting pot. Once an edgy and somewhat dangerous look, adaptations of this style have become more visible in past years. Taking many of the original style cues, but mixing in more of a modern fashion aesthetic to bring them up to date. To see a mohawk and bold bright makeup styling paired with edgy and well designed wardrobe pieces is becoming a more common movement, as the alternative market become more style conscious. Hair Bold punk inspired styles that make a statement are on the rise again. Rather than just going for the shock value, make sure that it functions well with your look, and make sure that your hair is maintained well. There are plenty of products available today that will give you the soaring heights and volumes you want without resorting to older techniques like using glue or dried egg whites. You want your hair to appear healthy but edgy; it’s best to find a stylist you really trust and work with them on developing a look like this. Eyes This is one look where you should not be afraid to play with color. A good mix of a neutral base with one or two nice bold colors on top will work well and keep the eye look from becoming to overdone. Strong blacks and whites can also be added to the mix for pop and contrast. Use products that are highly pigmented and offer good coverage. Anything by Yaby or an eye product from the Ben Nye Lumiere line will work perfectly. But feel free to experiment with brands. And don’t be afraid to experiment with shape and blending; you want to draw a lot of interest to the eye area. Just remember to plan your color palette well ahead of time and find some combinations that work for you. Lips Feel free to be bolder with the lips regardless of your preferred application. As long as the color does not work against the eye look, you have a lot of freedom here. If you like lipstick, bold colors can work well, especially if they are out of the range of classic reds. Be a little different. Try a bright peach or a dark berry color with lots of shine. If you like gloss, a nude or neutral with a touch of metallic or sparkle to the base would be a good choice, as would something with warm undertones. Good products to try are Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Lip Tar, MAC Lipglass, and any of Make Up For Ever’s fantastic line of lip products. AUXILIARY december 2009 BEAUTY The Naughty List by Vanity Kills Those days of dreading the annual winter festivities gift exchange with your girl gang are over! Sex up the season and indulge the decadent sides of all the fierce females on your Friends List with these glorious gift ideas: stuff they’ll actually, you know… want. Not a single cellophane wrapped “Falala Fruitcake” fragranced holiday bath set made it onto the list (though I’m sure you’ll get one from Aunt Trudy anyway). Also please take notice as to how tactfully I’ve abstained from cracking the token joke about putting the HO in “Holiday Season”. LIPS mary man eater NAILS polly psychosexual Pocket Rocket Lip Gloss - Urban Decay Nail Varnish - Illamasqua available at www.urbandecay.com . $19 Remember, she’s not a slut, she’s just popular! Let your promiscuous pal discover the thrill of finding Urban Decay’s Pocket Rocket Lip Gloss in her fishnet and PVC trimmed stocking this year. Fashioned after nudie cutie pens, tilting the tube’s cap unwraps a package that’s sure to delight your flirty friend. And it’s slightly more tactful than an appointment card for the local free clinic. available at www.sephora.com . $14 Tune into your “Hai –Guise-I’m –taking-a-psychology-class-in college” comrade’s quirky Freud-quoting brain with Illamasqua Nail Varnish in Phallic. Her Id will thank you profusely. Here’s to hoping that she’ll devote more time to tricking out her nails with this gorgeous shimmery midnight navy shade and ease up on informing everyone how they secretly wish to hook up with various members of their own family. CHEEKS nancy nympho EYES tammy trophy wife-in-training Blush - NARS Magic Dust - Lime Crime available at www.sephora.com . $25 We’ve all been acquainted with that pleasure enthusiast who simply cannot resist telling you every last TMI detail of her latest bedroom escapade over breakfast. Thanks to her lurid tales of debauchery, you will never look at sausage links in the same light again. A gift of Nars Blush in Orgasm will extend her post-coital afterglow. Its peachy pink shimmer flatters a multitude of skintones and should satisfy the Samantha of any group. available at www.limecrimemakeup.com . $12 What do you gift your currency conscious girl who makes no secret of her gold digging ways? Generally disliked by the rest of your crew, she openly admits that her singular desire consists of being some balding investment banker’s arm candy. Her idolizing of Anna Nicole Smith and bragging of her alleged ability to seize a man’s assets quicker than the IRS rubs most of your girlfriends the wrong way, yet you somehow find all this materialistic madness endearing. Fixing her up with a renowned Manhattan neurosurgeon truly is the best gift you could bestow upon her. Alas, until you start becoming a fixture at Park Avenue cocktail parties, Lime Crime Magic Dust in Treasure Chest might just be the next best thing. A coat of this highly reflective gold pigment applied to her lids with a slightly damp tapered edge brush will have to hold her over until those Tiffany’s shopping sprees. Not quite as gratifying as scoring a rich husband, but bound to co-ordinate nicely with the dollar signs in her eyes. PERFUME lilly lolita Sin & Salvation Perfume Oil Blends - Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab available at www.blackphoenixalchemylab.com . $15 This youthful maiden resembles something that might reside in your spinster aunt’s creepy Victorian porcelain doll collection. She considers bonnets, petticoats, and bloomers to be part of a perfectly socially acceptable daily ensemble despite the fact that you remember attending her 30th birthday party. Five years ago. Bring her back to the days of batting your lashes at bouncers and sneaking into clubs with fake IDs with the deliciously girly Jailbait scented oil from Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s Sin and Salvation Collection. If one looks like they’re en route to a Whatever Happened to Baby Jane: The Musical audition when grabbing a gallon of milk at the 7-11, they’re destined to smell of bubblegum, oranges, and cherry lollipops for the rest of their days. Unfortunately, I have no say as to what horrors you’ll be subjected to when left at the mercy of your co-workers’ taste courtesy of your office’s cruel and unusual punishment tactic known only by the codename Secret Santa. 13 december 2009 AUXILIARY ROTERSAND Since Rasc, Gun, and Krischan formed Rotersand in 2002, they have become a very well respected and highly popular band, known for their catchy melodies, great basslines, and intelligent vocals. With the release of their new album Random is Resistance, Rotersand prove they can and will continue to make albums that can dominate the clubs and alternative charts but also remain true to their unique sound and artistic vision. AUXILIARY december 2009 14 interview by Mike Kieffer and Jennifer Link MUSI C How does a Rotersand album come into existence? How long did Random Is Resistance take to create, where did you work on it, and how did it vary, if at all, in process from past albums? of time when all this information will be used directly against us; in some countries it already happens today. But even in our “Western” societies this information is gathered, sold, and used to make us notice and buy the certain products in certain stores at a certain time. It starts with a first sketch of a bassline or a vocal line or an inspiring chord progression, or sometimes just a slogan or one word. And from there we shape it step by step, note by note, beat by beat, as long as it still gives us that kind of unmistakable Rotersand feeling we need to keep going. All three of us have some sort of personal studio equipment to record guitars or vocals and do some programming with. For the final production we mostly meet in Krischan´s Studio 600. Was the release of Random Is Resistance on 10/23 premeditated? It was clear we would release on a Friday in October, so we thought it would be fun for us and our fans to go for that Friday the 23rd. A date good to remember for all Rotersandies, even ourselves. You have stated before that Rotersand draws off many different styles of music. And each band member has a different background in electronic music. What styles in particular did you draw from for Random Is Resistance? This is the first album without a title track. Perhaps the song “War On Error” was once named ‘Random Is Resistance’? It actually wasn’t. We were thinking of a song and title to complement the album title and its message. “War On Error” with its play on words paints a picture of a situation in which random has become the only means of opposing an omnipotent totalitarian system (political and/or economical). The system in turn has declared a war on error to suppress any attempt to retain or re-establish human individuality that cannot entirely be logged, calculated, or predicted. So for us it was just a perfect way to come up with a slogan for our thoughts and feelings. In a German review somebody described our new album, Random Is Resistance, as a kind of time travel through different music styles of the last decade, and we can definitely relate to that. That is owed a great deal to the fact that all three of us draw from different musical backgrounds. In collaborating as a band, we are privileged to be able to combine ideas and influences from a large pool of rather diverse personal taste and know how. It is that combination of musical personalities that shapes our sound; much more than certain styles we could be trying to implement. It goes from Pink Floyd and Queen to contemporary techno music (mainly Detroit provenience), has audible roots in EBM and a bit of euro-trance, but than again also in 70s glamrock and classical and pop music. That’s us. Is it important to you to make smash hit club songs? It seems with every Rotersand album there has been one. Or is that just coincidence? Just one? [winks] Yes it is important to us. We love to do that, as we love the dance floors. First we are a band, second we are songwriters. We are about dynamism and the eternal search for the perfect balance between aural beauty and sonic violence. You have also said before that lyrically Rotersand often opposes images of vigorous force with sentiments of melancholic Weltschmerz or world-weariness. Did you continue this theme in imagery with Random Is Resistance? And if so, how? Personally I like to hear DJs play new music when I go to clubs, but most often I will hear hits from several albums past when a band has just released a new album. It seems there is often a lag in new music getting our there, have you noticed this, and if so does it bother you? Songs like “Waiting to Be Born” or “We Will Kill Them All” or “A Million Worlds to Lose” are definitely to be mentioned here. “Waiting to Be Born” is about a young woman who has never really experienced love, passion, or luck so far. But she is confident that her life will be starting some day. The song describes that very moment when for the first time she feels that her life is going to change and finally really begins. This could be a young girl who is in the process of growing up, it could be a woman realizing that her life doesn’t go anywhere, or it can be a spouse who is on the brink of breaking up a relationship. And of course the situation described is not limited to females; most probably all of us are more or less familiar with that kind of notion. Yes we have noticed that and by now we do not write band’s names or songs on wish lists for DJs, we just write the current year on it (2009 for instance). We are lucky that we are one of the very few bands that get their current releases played. “War on Error” stayed at #1 on the German Alternative Dance Charts for the maximum period of 8 full weeks and still is a big club hit in Europe. But despite that, there is definitely not enough new music being played by DJs. What are the tour plans for this album? Where do you plan to tour? Random Is Resistance brings to mind Equilibrium-esq totalitarian future-verses where order and structure suppress human individuality. It seems each album title has a story behind it, be it inspirational news stories about finding new beginnings in endings such as with Welcome To Goodbye or personal eerie tour experiences with 1023. Can you please share the story behind this album title? We tour Europe a lot but we will also play the Kinetik Festival in Montréal in May. As far as we know, that will be the only chance to see us on your side of the Atlantic. To tour the US is very expensive because of the work permits, flights, transportation/ lodging, etc. We would like to and we will come to America again but we still don’t know when. Buy more Rotersand records so we can finance a US tour soon! Random is Resistance connects quite strong with our first album Truth Is Fanatic we just have become more radical in the way we perceive and describe the unquestioned wonders of modern information and media society. By the end of the day it is the question “who am I” and “how come, I want, like, prefer, use, and buy this and not that.” And it is about our fear of personal information being gathered and stored day by day and that we provide more information with almost every step we take in today’s global society. In a way the commercial media system we are controlled and strongly influenced by is fueled by our souls day in day out. Do we want this? Are we even aware of this? Songs like “War on Error”, Speak to Me”, or “ Yes We Care” reflect on this. The information that is stored within companies like Google make the atom bombs of modern media and information society. It may be just a question Any new elements you’d like to add to your live performance? Oh yes, we integrate more and more technology into it and it becomes more and more time-consuming to set it all up every evening. But we love to do it. A major strength of Rotersand is that the music can exist in multiple settings, intimately at home, at the club, and live. When you create the music, or when you release a new album, what do you have in mind as the best setting for Rotersand? 15 december 2009 AUXILIARY MUSI C For me it is live. It has to give me those goose bumps when I imagine a song played live. A good live song also works in clubs, whenever there’s a DJ with the heart and the guts to play it. If you could connect with a listener in the very way you intend your music to, what would that listener take from listening to Rotersand and Random Is Resistance in particular? Stir your mind and make you think about life in general and what’s important for you as a person. Give you the feeling that you are not alone with what goes on in your head and heart. And while doing so, you will be shaking your butt and still your heart should be touched from time to time, by the words, by the music, or by the combination of both. How has the sound of Rotersand evolved over the years to fit into the current state of music? We are always excited about new songs or albums or movies that have been released. But most of this is not coming from the EBM/dark-whatever scene. So we hopefully develop within the evolving electronic and alternative music culture we feel connected to. As we are using more of these typical Rotersand melodies that some people refer to as being “trancy”, you could say we’re heading backwards in some respect and we would understand you saying so. But we like these features so much and a few songs like “Waiting to Be Born” or “First Time” were literally begging for that kind of euphorical moments. So we just go for it, although to some it might sound old fashioned or cheesy. We do not ponder what we are doing; we follow our emotions and simply record what we want to hear ourselves. In a live concert at the latest, everybody will love these moments, as we will celebrate them as party highlights. When I first listened to Truth Is Fanatic I remember thinking, ‘this is what EBM of today should sound like.’ And after seeing Rotersand live for the first time, I realized in addition to great music there was also a great passion behind the band. Many people will say that no good EBM music is being made anymore, but for those reasons Rotersand is always one of my first examples of how that isn’t true. Would you say Rotersand is simply just about the music, or is making new EBM/industrial music and continuing that aesthetic a part of it? Thank you very much! Sounds good [to us, but] seriously, it is more about music we like and want to hear ourselves in the clubs or at home as you said before. We don’t see ourselves as EBM warriors at all, although a band like Front 242 is one of my personal all time idols. It seems everyone is down and out about the state of the scene, but I feel Rotersand is a ray of hope in a sea of mediocre music, in-love-with-the-past club goers, and passionless live shows. What are your feelings on the state of EBM/ industrial music and the future of that scene? There is so much great music around and being released month by month. Just make Mrs. and Mr. DJ play it! Would you say personally you are a part of the EBM/industrial scene or does it just so happen the music you want to create appeals to that crowd? Rotersand most obviously has some of its roots in EBM but we are not happy with all that uninspired, cookie monster trash that lacks soul, inspiration, and dedication. How do you feel about the music DJs or internet radios like LastFM group Rotersand with? We wouldn’t want to tell anybody where rank us or group us with. That is too personal a choice. As long as people like our music and can relate to it, we’re fine. The more variety there is with regard to musical taste and development, the better for us. We love to ask this question because at Auxiliary we try to cover a wide range of music, so we are curious what the artists we feature can add to that. What are you listening to currently? What music has been on your playlist that you really want people to know about? At the moment we listen to music from A like in Abba, over to C as in current techno, to X like in Xlover, to Y like in Thom Yorke, and Z like in Zoot Woman. music reviews MUSI C Rotersand - Random Is Resistance released by Metropolis Records on 27 October 2009 data : 4th album . 12 tracks . 56:17 run time . www.rotersand.net reviewed by : Mike Kieffer genre : EBM, futurepop What is a club night without hearing Rotersand? Well for me it would be unfulfilling, and now with their new album Random Is Resistance, there is no excuse for the DJ not to play them. The instant club hit, “War On Error”, has already seen success with its hard hitting base lines, epic synths, and cool samples along with the individualistic lyrics empowering the listener, surely it will continue to get played for years to come. Beyond this smash hit you will find other great songs that could also be staples in the scene. “Speak To Me” is a great melodic track, hypnotizing the listener as it slowly builds up to a dramatic finish. Although the lyrics are not going to solve world hunger or inspire people to have emotional breakdowns, they are above the state of cheesy, and in a pop type album this suites me just fine. Throughout the album you will find many influences, from EBM to techno, to euro-trance, to art-rock. This helps the album by letting each track be slightly different from each other and working to keep the whole album interesting and really enjoyable straight through. Looking down the track list, it is hard to find a weak song. These guys know how to write great songs. This album has longevity, and at some point over the next year every track on this album will be my favorite. If you have been a fan of Rotersand in the past, or have ever liked the genre then pick this album up, I dare you to not enjoy it. recommended tracks : War On Error, Beneath the Stars if you like you may like : VNV Nation, Covenant grade : overall 9 - music 9 - lyrics 8 - recording quality 10 this issue’s COLLECTOR’S PICK Bauhaus - Mask (3 CD Omnibus Edition) Bad Lieutenant - Never Cry Another Tear released by Beggar’s Banquet on 20 October 2009 data : 44 tracks . www.bauhausmusik.com reviewed by : Paul Morin genre : goth Having already re-issued, re-packaged and reevaluated everything possible from the hippie generation, and having given up on the teenagers who have never known anything other than downloading, the music industry has turned its sights on the Gen-X crowd, giving deluxe treatments to alternative classics by The Cure, New Order, and now Bauhaus. The latest “Omnibus Edition” of Mask issued by Beggar’s Banquet (joining The Cult’s Love and Bauhaus’ In the Flat Field) presents a borderline obsessive archive of sights and sounds: 3 discs housed in a gray and black box with new CD and slipcase artwork (as well as faithfully recreating the original) and a 48 page booklet to boot. This is not your average cash-in tribute to a band. This is a box set that documents a time and a place, created by fans for fans. Disc 1 presents the album in its entirety, thankfully re-mastered with much needed enhancements to the original murky recordings. Disc 2 contains unreleased tracks and B-sides, and disc 3 gives an amped-up live performance of the band from 1981. It’s debatable whether anyone will want to sit through 4 different versions of “Hair of the Dog” or “Kick in the Eye” in one sitting, but nonetheless the various versions and outtakes present an intimate portrait of the band (including an absurd out of tune and off the rails version of “Ziggy Stardust” where Peter Murphy jokes “our next single” at the end). Complete with handwritten lyric sheets, rare photos, sketches, interviews with the band, and commentary surrounding the album, it is an immaculately created time capsule that captures Bauhaus at the height of their creativity and momentum. For those unfamiliar with the album, this is essential stuff. It is a crossroads between punk, goth, and alternative. To the already initiated, it is a well researched documentary of the album that explains exactly how, when, and why it all came about. Give the band and the label a break: Don’t download it. Buy it. It is a work of art and a slice of musical history, and deserves to be treated as such. recommended tracks : Mask, The Passion of Lovers if you like you may like : Love and Rockets, Peter Murphy, Tones on Tail grade : overall 10 - music 10 - lyrics 10 - recording quality 10 released by Triple Echo Records on 10 November 2009 data : 1st album . 12 tracks . 55:22 run time . myspace.com/badlieutenantmusic reviewed by : Paul Morin genre : indie, alternative This isn’t the first time Joy Division/New Order’s Bernard Sumner has had to reinvent himself. By now, the man should be a master at the task, having changed the music world to fit his needs more than once in his lifetime. Sumner’s latest project, Bad Lieutenant, comes in the wake of a very heated and public split from New Order bassist Peter Hook, so whether or not this is a quote side project unquote or a new future for Sumner remains up in the air. That said, Bad Lieutenant bears more than a striking resemblance to (surprise) New Order. And, in fact, lead song “Sink or Swim” could easily be confused with Hook’s project Monaco. Fortunately, Bad Lieutenant adds a few surprises to the mix. It is centered on the guitar and is much more of a straight-ahead rock album than the new wave funk and punk of New Order and is closer to Sumner’s work with Electronic. The guitars (all 3 of them) are up front and active, including a few songs which burst into (gasp) extended solos. There is also the addition of guitarist/vocalist Jake Evans, who sings harmonies on a few songs and takes the lead on others. His voice, hauntingly reminiscent of Doves’ front man Jimi Goodwin, provides a nice counterpoint, bringing a more autumnal shade than Sumner’s bright, springy step. In the end, the songs don’t really go anywhere surprising; they are pop songs in a familiar vein you would expect from anything Sumner touches. However, they also reveal a great deal of promise; there is genuine talent in this band and a fresh, revved up and ready to go attitude that jumps out at the listener, not to mention some of the most inspired guitar work from Sumner himself in decades. Not the best album of the year, but certainly one of the most promising. recommended tracks : Sink or Swim, Dynamo if you like you may like : New Order, Doves grade : overall 6 - music 6 - lyrics 6 - recording quality 10 17 december 2009 AUXILIARY music reviews MUSI C v01d - This Is Not A False Alarm Anymore & Burnt Upon Re-Entry (limited) released by Artoffact Records on 24 November 2009 data : 1st album . 21 tracks . 98:34 run time . v01d.net reviewed by : Aaron Andrews genre : EBM, experimental synthpop v01d, aka Joseph Byer, has been remixing artists such as Standeg, Interlace, Massiv in Mensch and working on pro-duction and touring keyboards for Ayria. On the heels of his first single, Weakener featuring Ayria’s Jennifer Parkin, Artoffact is releasing a double package of both This Is Not A False Alarm Anymore & Burnt Upon Re-Entry. The former a studio and the latter a remix album, the two are offered together as a limited set. The studio album half, This Is Not A False Alarm Anymore, has influences that come from all over electronic music, from IDM conventions like out of step beats, dubstep bass lines that modulate and flex, to guitar parts that have the air of many a 16Volt tune. Under all the compositions built on those obvious pieces, v01d makes use of ambient noises and synth effects placed subtly but critically to add a depth. The resulting complexity is a big part of the charm that the material has. Vocally, there is a heavy reliance on treatments. These effects for the studio album make the replacement of the vocals in the alternate versions even more different and exciting. Although there’s continuity with use of effects, the singing style doesn’t stick with a consistent format and the best way to describe the variety is a blending of MC 900 ft Jesus, Jack Dangers, and H3llb3nt. The combination of these different pieces and styles result in an album that isn’t the most groundbreaking but is interesting and engaging to listen to. The elements are all blended in an intelligent method. I never felt that Byer was making the wrong choices; the compositions all work excellently. The songs all stand up to repeated listening. The remix disc, Burnt Upon Re-Entry, features extra tracks and remixes by the likes of Standeg, Headscan, Diskonected, and Memmaker. There are some great versions on this disc, especially v01d’s second takes of his own songs. The alternates and remixes all build upon the original tracks and pick up the best elements for highlighting. Headscan’s remix of “Resurrected Upon Landing”, for example, takes the drum n’ bass intro and builds it into a hot breakcore track. The alternate versions benefit by adding female vocals to “Burnt Upon Re-Entry (2nd Approach)”, “Weakener (Weaken Us ft. Ayria)”, and “End of Life (Early Recall).” The resulting attachment from the more personal mood of the untreated vocals only adds to the already strong song writ-ing. recommended tracks : Holding Pattern, Gods Look Down, Resurrected Upon Landing, Weakener (Weaken Us ft. Ayria), Resurrected Upon Landing (Headscan Remix) if you like you may like : Haujobb, Ayria, Gary Numan grade : overall 7 - music 7 - lyrics 6 - recording quality 8 Ikon - Love, Hate and Sorrow W.A.S.T.E. - A Silent Mantra of Rage reviewed by : Paul Morin genre : goth, post-punk, EBM Austrailian goth-rockers Ikon have carried the torch of old school goth and post-punk for almost two decades and show no signs of stopping on their latest offering, Love, Hate and Sorrow. Though probably best known in the goth community for their dance-floor friendly version of Death in June’s “Fall Apart”, their longevity gives a clue to the consistent quality and depth of their catalog. The songs have a similar structure and sound to one another and adhere strictly to a dark new wave, or more specifically early New Order, book of music, using a basic verse-chorus-verse-chorus formula with jangling guitar and bass layered in so many effects that they constantly run the risk of sounding like an 80s cover band. Lyrically they fall into some bad goth stereotypes; songs generally have to do with “me” and “you” and the status of “our” relationship, which is often tumultuous and confusing in an Ian Curtis or Robert Smith sense. And one song in particular mentions “Odin’s rage”. If you can’t overlook these shortcomings and stereotypes, this isn’t the band for you. If you relish in the darker side of life, this band captures the old school goth feel and preserves it like no other. The guitar and bass often reveal shockingly beautiful moments that reveal a deep reverence for their influences and, at times, easily rival them. Vocalist Chris McCarter, veering somewhere between David Tibet and Ian McCulloch, delivers lines that soar out of the dark or bellow in anguish. All in all, Love, Hate and Sorrow doesn’t do much to expand on Ikon’s formula; if you’ve heard them before, you know what to expect and the same old sound is back again. And, as usual, it’s of exceptional quality. If you haven’t, and you’re a fan of old school goth and post-punk, do yourself a favor. recommended tracks : A Line on a Dark Day, Torn Apart if you like you may like : Red Lorry Yellow Lorry, Fields of the Nephilim grade : overall 7 - music 8 - lyrics 5 - recording quality 8 reviewed by : Aaron Andrews genre : rhythmic noise For his third release Southern California’s W.A.S.T.E. tenders A Silent Mantra of Rage, a double disc. The first half is 12 tracks of studio album and the second half is made up of 16 remixes and previously unreleased work. It’s everything you expect from a noise act: a pounding onslaught of rhythm, lots of distortion and song titles that allude to humanities baser natures. Throw in a few samples alluding to those baser natures, bang you’re right on target. Are you looking to lose yourself in a fistpumping floor stomping daze? You will not be disappointed. This material is at its best when played as loud as you can make it and really gets better the louder you listen. A Silent Mantra of Rage is not breaking new ground or exploring unknown frontiers; it’s out to punch people who think about such things right in the face. It suc-cessfully delivers an angry dose of high power rhythm and distortion to be eagerly welcomed by anyone willing to crank up the volume and be lost in the layers of carefully timed throbbing intensity. There are a few lower paced interludes sprinkled in as a helpful break in the midst of madness, just enough to catch your breath. The second disc contains remixes by such artists as Xotox, Mono No Aware, C/A/T, Mono-Amine, Alter Der Ruine, Contaminant and The People Republic Of Europe. The remixes are a good variety of similar artists and an excellent reminder of the ways these kindred hearts approach their own distinct sounds. I found that this variety made me favor the second disc a bit more. This album is sure to appeal to fans of rhythmic noise and sure to make those already not friendly to the sound cringe. It delivers exactly to formulaic expectation, and if you have friendly ears you won’t be disappointed. recommended tracks : The Beast, Gun To The Head, A Glorious Genocide, Gun To The Head (Magnum Force! Mix By Contaminant), Kill Your Own (Ambient Overdose Mix By Fractured Transmission) if you like you may like : NKVD, Terrorfakt, C/A/T grade : overall 6 - music 6 - recording quality 7 released by Apollyon/Vendetta Music on 26 October 2009 data : 6th album . 12 tracks . 53:09 run time . www.ikondomain.com AUXILIARY december 2009 released by Vendetta on 27 October 2009 data : 3rd album . 28 tracks . 150:56 run time . www.myspace.com/waste guest music review MUSI C darkNES of The Gothsicles My name’s Brian, and I do this thing called “The Gothsicles” which has heretofore been a musical pairing of old school video games and vampirey stuff. I realize those are two of the most worn out premises right now, but it was an exciting idea in 2002. Since that time, we’ve played a buttload of shows and festivals all over the place, including Infest UK, Blacksun, and the upcoming Kinetik 2010 in Montreal. Two albums have been released with the latest, Sega Lugosi’s Dead, through WTII Records. I used to really push my stage name “darkNES” and am sometimes still credited that way, so if they use that on this, that’s what that’s all about. Be sure to check out The Gothsicles at www.thegothsicles.com Assemblage 23 - Compass released by Metropolis Records on 20 October 2009 data : 6th album . 10 tracks . 51:16 run time . www.assemblage23.com genre : synthpop I got some pre-review jitters when Auxiliary asked me to do a “guest review” because the with the way these things tend to go, I’d get some total drek to review, shit all over it and then wind up playing with whoever I just shit on a month later, and then have to worry about some guy taking an actual shit in my keyboard case backstage, and no one needs to deal with that. Fortunately for me, they gave me the new Assemblage 23, a band, which I’m convinced, is incapable of writing a bad song (the fucking assholes). photo by Chrissie Martin video-gamey arp in particular that just kills me. Next up is one of those, “Hey, whoa, what?” kinda tracks cause it’s a way harder edge and raw sounding than you’d guess about (holy shit, was that stutter edit? (e-e-e-e-dit)). I mean, that’s obviously a really popular sound right now, but A23 makes it they own. The fantastic newness continues on “Impermanence” with this almost French house pumpy thing going on, to this great line in “How Can You Sleep” (“you lie like other people breathe”) to “Alive” to “Greed” and I don’t know why you would want to name a track “Angels & Demons” right after that movie came out, but the song totally rocks. I’m obviously flubbing the ending here cause this review is due in a couple hours and it’s like a grillion o’clock in the morning, but the main idea is that this album effin’ rules for real x1000. There’s a difference between effort and effects and that’s where this band comes in. Compass takes it to a new level, though. If you’re like me and have always dug the classic A23 sound, no worries, you’re gonna find that. What I found really great, however, was the way in which Mr. Shear was able to expand, and in some cases, honestly experiment with his trademark sounds. The fact that even six albums deep Assemblage 23 refuses to phone it in is just goddamn inspiring. The album in question starts off super strong with “Smoke”, a well-crafted dance floor smasha with a big ol’ A23 chorus. Female backing vox kick in on said chorus, which is something I don’t recall hearing much of (if ever?) from Assemblage, but it totally works. There’s some great bit-crushing going in this track and this one recommended tracks : Smoke, Collapse, Leave This All Behind if you like you may like : Necessary Response, The Necessary Responses grade : overall 10 - music 10 - lyrics 10 - recording quality 10 quick picks Leæther Strip - Yes I’m Limited V released by Alfa Matrix on 13 November 2009 genre : electro industrial Claus Larsen’s direct approach to lyrics have gotten me strange looks over the years, and if I learned one thing it’s to not sing along while listening with headphones. This latest release features 27 rarities that need to be heard by any fan. CD1 is the kind of pure electro industrial fun we’d expect with lyrics that test our will to not sing along. CD2 has early 80s demos, and they are definitely from the early 80s. Fear not because, later on CD2, there are remixes by Die Krupps, Project Pitchfork and others that save the day, for me anyways, because I hate the 80s. 8/10 - MK I:Scintilla - Prey On You EP released by Alfa Matrix on 22 September 2009 genre : synthpop/industrial-rock I:Scintilla’s EP keeps getting stuck in my head; I wake up in the morning with a song bouncing around, and I am excited about it. The track “Prey On You” is a kickass synthpop track, and the Senastian Komor Mix has found a solid spot in my DJ set list. The other two tracks “Ammunition” and “Hollowed” are industrial-rock, where “Ammunition” is more industrial-metal. All three songs have solid female vocals and tight programming. The remixes make this EP worth picking up. The diversity in the songs makes me curious about the new 2010 album. 8/10 - MK 19 X-Fusion - Ultima Radio released by Scanner/Dark Dimensions on 25 Sept 09 genre : harsh electro The intro track “The Calm Before the Storm” is a warning to prepare yourself for an audio onslaught that will leave you looking around at the end wondering “what just happened?” X-Fusion is in the top echelon of harsh electro, and listening to this album makes other established artists in the genre sound like amateurs. Ultima Radio is not just a repetitive beat with distorted vocals; it combines catchy melodies, strong synths, well-placed breakdowns and buildups, and samples worth sampling. This is arguably X-Fusions best work to date. 9/10 - MK december 2009 AUXILIARY decade retrospective a look at the last 10 years in music disclaimer : these are personal opinions and are not based on charts or polls or anything of that sort Paul Morin music contributor Aaron Andrews Mike Kieffer music editor music contributor Darren M. Orlowski music contributor best album Calla Scavengers 2001 Underworld A Hundred Days Off 2002 Skinny Puppy The Greater Wrong of the Right 2004 LCD Sound System Sound of Silver 2007 album you liked from the first 5 years that you wouldn’t be caught listening to now Gorillaz Gorillaz 2001 Various Artists Digital Empire: Trance 2000 Happy 2b Hardcore Chapter 4 2000 Amy Whinehouse Frank 2003 Black Rebel Motorcycle Junkie XL A Broadcast Motorcycle Club 2001 From the Computer Hell Cabin 2003 Celldweller Celldweller 2003 Social Distortion Sex, Love and Rock ‘N’ Roll 2004 album you played the most Club Black Rebel most disappointing album DJ Shadow The Outsider 2006 Depeche Mode Exciter 2001 Chemlab Oxidizer 2004 Weezer Raditude 2009 most influential album Radiohead Kid A 2000 Burial Burial 2006 Daft Punk Discovery 2001 Tom Waits Orphans: Brawlers, Bawlers & Bastards 2006 album you loved that everyone else hated Earth Hibernaculum 2007 Tracey Thorn Out of the Woods 2007 Colony 5 Fixed 2005 Dirwood Up For Days 2009 album you hated that everyone loved Bright Eyes Fevers & Mirrors 2000 VNV Nation Futureperfect 2002 Depeche Mode Playing the Angel 2005 Cold Play A Rush of Blood to the Head 2002 album you told your friends about the most The National Alligator 2005 M83 Before the Dawn Heals Us 2005 Babyland The Finger 2004 Jamie Lidell Multiply 2005 album you heard the most (club, radio, etc.) The Faint Danse Macabre 2001 The Killers Hot Fuss 2004 Seabound No Sleep Demon 2001 Kings of Leon Only by the Night 2008 Interpol Turn on the Bright Lights 2002 cEvin Key Ghost of Each Room 2001 Absurd Minds Deception 2000 Mark Farina Mushroom Jazz Vol. 3 2001 The Church 1980–present Kraftwerk 1974–present Suicide Commando 1986–Current Lady Gaga 2006–present album you will still be listening to in 2020 bonus : band that is still around that you didn’t expect to be AUXILIARY december 2009 20 MUSI C share your picks online at www.auxiliarymagazine.com search : decade retrospective Meagan Hendrickson Luke Copping Alex Kourelis David Lopian Jason Draper DJ Jet associate editor of Digital Geist of Canto V of The Failures’ Union Vampire Freaks mastermind The Cure Join the Dots: B-sides and Rarities 2004 Arcade Fire Funeral 2004 Sasha Involver 2004 Katatonia Night is the New Day 2009 Tegan & Sara The Con 2007 Neuroticfish Gelb 2005 Wumpscut Wreath of Barbs (Selected Remix Works) 2005 Polyphonic Spree The Beginning stages of… 2002 ATB Two Worlds 2000 Korn Untouchables 2002 The Rapture Echoes 2004 VNV Nation Futureperfect 2002 Zombie Ghost Train Glad Rags & Body Bags 2007 Red Sparowes At the Soundless Dawn 2005 Soundtrack Trilogy (25th Vangelis Blade Runner Bad Religion The Process of Belief 2002 Jimmy Eat World Bleed American 2001 Necessary Response The Cure The Cure 2004 Guns N’ Roses Chinese Democracy 2008 Apoptygma Berzerk Rocket Science 2009 The Gathering The West Pole 2009 R.E.M. Around the Sun 2004 Frozen Plasma Artificial 2006 The Faint Danse Macabre 2001 Interpol Turn on the Bright Lights 2002 BT Emotional Technology 2003 Opeth Blackwater Park 2001 Interpol Turn on the Bright Lights 2002 mind.in.a.box Dreamweb 2005 XPQ 21-Chi 2002 Lady Gaga The Fame 2008 Coldplay A Rush of Blood to the Head 2002 R.E.M. Around the Sun 2004 Black Eyes Black Eyes 2003 Apoptygma Berzerk You and Me Against the World 2005 VNV Nation Futureperfect 2002 Franz Ferdinand You Could Have It So Much Better 2005 The Chemical Brothers Push the Button 2005 Gnarls Barkley St. Elsewhere 2006 Franz Ferdinand Franz Ferdinand 2004 Psyclon Nine We the Fallen 2009 A Place to Bury Strangers A Place to Bury Strangers 2007 Bohren and der Club of Gore Black Earth 2002 Apparat Walls 2007 Van Canto A Storm to Come 2006 Cheap Girls Find Me a Drink Home 2008 Faderhead FH2 2007 Covenant United States of Mind 2000 Flaming Lips Yoshimi Battles the Pink Robots 2002 Apoptygma Berzerk Welcome to Earth 2000 Soilwork Stabbing the Drama 2005 The Postal Service Give Up 2003 Grendel Soilbeed EP 2005 Death in June Rule of Thirds 2008 White Lies To Lose My Life… 2009 Amon Tobin Out from Out Where 2002 Porcupine Tree In Absentia 2002 Jet’s To Brazil Perfecting Loneliness 2002 Code 64 Departure 2006 Apoptygma Berzerk 1989–present Kings of Leon 1999–present Gary Numan 1977–present Portishead 1994–present Depeche Mode 1980–Present Skinny Puppy 1982–1995, 2000, 2003–present fashion editor anniversary) 2007 21 Blood Spills Not Far From The Wound 2007 december 2009 AUXILIARY WAV, AIFF, MP3, FLAC... your survival guide for today’s audio formats by Darren M. Orlowski WTF? Remember when you were a kid and you wanted to listen to music? All you had to do was “put the needle on the record, when the drum beats go like this.” Honestly, I don’t think it was ever that easy, but in the era of digital media it isn’t getting much easier. With the audio CD slowly disappearing and digital media taking its place, it can be quite confusing trying to keep track of what’s what and what’s good for you. The average listener wants their music files to have a good balance between quality and size, where an audiophile will prefer quality to size. Navigating the different formats can be difficult, let alone understanding them in the first place. Chances are you are or have already digitized some of your music. Hopefully this will be a helpful guide for you. When you transfer a CD to your computer, your audio files will be in either WAV or AIFF format. These file types are two different ways of doing the same thing. Both have the same bit rate and sample rate as CDs, and both are very large cumbersome files. Before we move on, I’m going to discuss a couple common terms that you will see when working with audio formats. CD quality sample rate is 44.1 kHz. Some audio converters let you change the sample rate and some don’t, I suggest leaving it at 44.1 kHz as I feel changing it affects the quality a lot more than the size. Bit rate is very important; you’ll get the best quality to size ratio when changing this during audio conversion. 16 bits is CD quality, and I’ll discuss MP3 bit rates in more detail in a… bit. When converting audio files some encoders allow you to switch between a constant bit rate and a variable bit rate. A constant bit rate means that the bit rate will stay the same during compression. Choosing variable bit rate will change the compression bit rate throughout the file depending on the music itself. Parts of the music without a lot going on will be compressed more than parts that have a lot of action. Variable bit rate will have a big affect on the size of your compressed file. Two other terms you’ll see a lot are lossless and lossy compression. These are used to describe the type of converting that you will do. Lossless compression means that you’ll reduce the size of the audio file without affecting the quality of the sound. Lossy compression is reducing the size and the quality of the file. The most common lossless files out there are ALAC and FLAC, once again two different ways to arrive at the same point. Basically ALAC is Apple and FLAC isn’t. When you convert using these, you can get an audio file down to about half its size while keeping it at whatever quality you started with. This is good for audiophiles, but if you want to pack as many songs on your portable music player as possible you can get a better quality to size ratio using lossy compression. Another problem with ALAC and FLAC is many players don’t support them, so it’s good for moving music around, but you may have to convert your filed to a WAV or AIFF if you want to listen to it. In the world of lossy compression, MP3s reign supreme. And just like Lady Gaga and everything else in the music industry, you don’t have to be the best to make it big, just the most popular. MP3 technically comes from MPEG-1 Audio Layer 3. Apple uses a slightly different format, which is called AAC, and uses MPEG-2 and MPEG-4. There is a bit of a debate on which is better, but they both use the same concept for compressing audio. Human hearing picks up midrange audio the best, such as speech, guitars, and horns. The lower you go, the less you hear and the more you feel. Since most home audio systems and especially ear buds can’t go very low, removing some of this won’t be too noticeable. As you move up the audio spectrum toward the sounds of hi hats, whistles and Mom’s yelling, you get to an area of hearing that gets the most wear and tear. At birth, most humans can hear from 20 kHz – 20,000 kHz. By the time you reach adulthood, the upper end is already worn down to 16,000 kHz. So, once again, losing some of the upper range doesn’t have too much affect on the audio, to a point. Most audio converters will allow you to select the bit rate you want to bring your audio down to, starting with 320 kbits/sec and moving down to 32 kbits/sec. The advantage of this is every step down you go your file size gets considerably smaller, but sound quality also diminishes. A 320 kbits/sec MP3 or AAC file is roughly 20% of the original WAV file in size, and a 128 kbits/sec file is close to 10%. For car and home audio systems, I would recommend staying between 320 kbits/sec and 224 kbits/sec. This will give you a good quality to size ratio. Though I will say: the bigger and better your system is, the more you’re going to notice something is dj tracks missing. 128 kbits/sec to 192 kbits/sec is good for earbuds, but the lower you get the highs start sounding swishy and the bass gets thinner. Everything under 128 kbits/sec, in my opinion, is only good for voice recordings like audio books. The main thing to remember about converting audio using lossy compression is that once you take it away, you can never put it back. If you’re converting a CD collection or CD quality music you’ve downloaded, I would advise storing the original in case you ever want to go back. Another thing to remember is that it’s not what you convert your audio to but how you convert it. A good audio encoder will make all the difference. iTunes has a good encoder for AAC but its MP3 encoder is sub par. Another problem with AAC is that not all computer players support it. MP3 is the way to go if you want your music to play on everything. LAME is the MP3 encoder you want to get for two reasons: it sounds great and it’s free. If you like the simplicity of iTunes or you just don’t want to change, you should look into iTunes-LAME. If you’re a PC person and like to keep all things Apple away from your computer, then look in to LameXP. It’s small and simple, but it still gives you the option to tweak a lot of the settings. Though I will warn you that the music that the program plays once the converting process is completed is obnoxious and loud. If you want to hear what these different formats sound like, check out the listening examples on the Auxiliary Magazine website so you can hear what the different levels of MP3 and AAC sound like and what you’re missing. visit www.auxiliarymagazine.com for audio samples and more search : audio guide MUSI C DJ Franck Hbomb Das Bunker recently celebrated its thirteenth anniversary. For the past thirteen years, Das Bunker has been the soul of the industrial music scene in Los Angeles. It began as a small club night specializing in obscure industrial and noise bands, but it rapidly developed a cult following that allowed it to grow to the industrial giant that it is today. Founder and co-promoter of the worldrenowned Das Bunker, DJ Franck Hbomb is a purveyor of the finest electro industrial music. His efforts on bringing the power noise movement to the wasteland of Los Angeles has been working, and it’s spread like a virus to infect the rest of the USA. “Aware” Fractured Transmission Even before the release of his first full length, Willing Suspension of Disbelief, Nick had a buzz running through our scene that his was one of the best power noize albums of 2010. Watch out, Fractured Transmission is out to get you! “The Spoor of the Wolf in the Wet Earth” Marching Dynamics The Workers Party of Haiti is another sensational rendition of The Operative’s state of mind. Mixing genres and doing it well, none of the 14 tracks disappoint. “Noise Preacher” Phosgore Phosgore is a German industrial DJ who started making his own harsh body music arranged with some trance-y tidbits. Awesome discovery! Straight to the floor! “Noizemaker” Captive Six What can I say about this EP other than it is the other brainchild of Ben Arp aka C/A/T/. The music just exudes a pure adrenaline rush. “Godmachine” Centhron Who is Centhron? I didn’t know until I heard “Godmachine”, so I will say awesomely arranged and layered EBM from the fatherland, honest and clever. “The Fall of Light” Der Blaue Reiter Although I don’t yet spin martial industrial/neofolk at a club right now, I am quite fond of those genres and have been for a long time. To me this is probably the best track of the best album I have heard in years. Emotional, captivating, and full of hope. Just grandiose. “Fatalist” Triarii Another martial industrial band I adore. From Berlin, Triarri has been able to recreate the sound of the battlefields of two millennia of wars, it might sounds weird to some, just don’t hate. Well produced and always on top of his craft. “The Sea and the Silence ” Electronic Substance Abuse (part 1 the Sea) In his third album, Jamie shows again that he is an absolute master when it comes to intricate compositions and always brings out the unexpected in his music. This track is particularly interesting because of its concept of trying to envelope the listener into this very comfortable unsettling moment before releasing the beats. “Kill All Those Motherfuckers” Extize Receiver Woah this is another Canadian project well versed in delivering some intense beats infused with noise, not to mention every track is a dance floor filler. Don’t forget your stomping boots and move all the furniture. Viva la poutine EH!!! “The Last Dream of Jesus” Haus Arafna If you like your noise with rhythm and not the other way around, there’s Haus Arafna and the Galakthorroe record label. Hope your ears and brains are ready to take punishments. Extra heavy beats interwoven with powerful noise and anthem distortion, my all time favorite ripping guts track. E D I TORI AL The ideas and viewpoints of our readers published to voice an alternative perspective on current day society, topics, and events. the medium is the manifesto by EJTower People quietly signal to each other across tables in restaurants and cafes, over clothing store racks, they’re pointing, and they’re saying, “Look over there.” Some speak in muffled outrage at what they see, and this response is an old one. In truth, it is a boring one. But increasingly others are speaking with secret admiration for what catches their attention. A woman, a man: heavily tattooed, skin stretched and adorned by steel rods and rings, hair dyed or shaved or grown out. A person going about their everyday life as a countercultural combatant whose every waking moment and draw of breath challenges our established order of acceptable self-expression and the presumed nature of our human bodies. As the first decade of the 21st century comes to a close, we should wonder at the significance of this current counterculture and take note of the important shift that has taken place in the last ten years. radical fashion has changed from being the modification of “clothing, as extension of the skin,” to the literal modification of the skin and body. A Pew Research Center study from January 2007 notes that 36% of people, then aged 18-35, reported having one tattoo or more, and 30% of them reported having pierced something other than ear lobes. More than a third of the generation that came of age in the last decade is now engaged in some way with self-expression through body modification. Body modification is not new, but when comparing this generation’s use of it to that of their parents, aged 41-64, a slim 10% reported having one tattoo or more, and an even slimmer 6% reported ever piercing something other than an ear lobe, barely a tenth of that generation has considered modifying their bodies to express the self. But if “the medium is the message,” as Marshall McLuhan asserts, what is the message of the manifesto being written here in the flesh? The historical precursors to the current counterculture (hippie, punk, metal, goth, grunge, etc.) can be seen as chiefly concerned with attacking the cultural uniforms of the day through radical fashion. This is often used as an insult to undermine the seriousness of these groups, but radical fashion is quite important, as revolutionary media analyst Marshall McLuhan noted: “Clothing, as an extension of the skin, can be seen… as a means of defining the self socially… Clothing was then a nonverbal manifesto of political upset.” So, by engaging in radical fashion, the historical countercultures were modifying their society, creating new social roles and new social spaces for themselves outside of those understood by the dominant culture of the day. I believe the answer to this question will become even clearer in the coming decades. The current counterculture is engaged in the creation of a new conception of the body as a plastic medium, infinitely moldable and personally customizable. In a sense they are creating a concept of body to fit the society their historical precursors wished to create. The techniques currently being developed by medical science to solve and cure problems with the human body I believe will eventually become the next affordable means to modify and enhance the human body. Through the use of genetic engineering, biological implants, robotic prosthesis, and modification of cognition through computer implants, the radical nature of today’s “traditional” body modification will appear as quaint as punk kids in 1979 screwing spikes into leather jackets. Eventually a medium shift will occur yet again, from the modification of the body, as an extension of the being, to the literal modification of the being: a literal modification of self. The major significance of the current counterculture is a shift in the medium of expression. It is not that counterculture has ceased to engage in radical fashion, but that Let us know what you think! We think it is important that alternative culture has a voice on important and current topics. AUXILIARY december 2009 Our editorial section is for your opinions. email : firstname.lastname@example.org 24 film MED I A theessentials ) ) There are the classics, there are the cult films, there are the masterpieces; there are many films that are obvious essentials. These are essentials that may have gone unnoticed. by Luke Copping hard core logo le samouraï directed by : Bruce McDonald released : 1996 starring : Hugh Dillon, Callum Keith Rennie, Julian Richings directed by: Jean-Pierre Melville released : 1967 starring : Alain Delon, François Périer, Nathalie Delon The comparison between Hard Core Logo and Rob Reiner’s This is Spinal Tap is simultaneously flattering and unfortunate. Both are noteworthy mockumentaries that provide a look inside the delusions and myths of the rock and roll zeitgeist. Spinal Tap, a memorable and humorous outing in its own right, feels bloated and misled. Like the characters the film presents, while funny, you never really get the sense that anything is on the line. For the four aging rockers presented in Hard Core Logo, you have a very pronounced feeling that everything is on the line, whether they realize it or not. Film audiences have a long standing tradition of rooting for the bad guy: those utterly despicable but possibly redeemable anti-heroes, who, despite the abominable nature of the acts they commit, are still ruled by a single ethical beacon or purity of drive. For those few fleeting moments, we find ourselves identifying with their complicated motivations or their singular ideological tenacity more than we ever could with some fresh faced holier than thou hero whose moral superiority often leaves us feeling contemptuous. The greatest heroes are flawed and tragic. We often find ourselves hoping for the redemption of their defining villain, simply because we find their complications interesting. Alain Delon defined the archetype of the sympathetic anti-hero in his performance of Jef Costello in Le Samouraï. A perfectionist assassin who leads a spartan lifestyle, Jef follows his strict personal code of conduct with a quietly fervent enthusiasm that often borders on outright zealotry. The phrase “cool and collected” may have been created simply to describe this character. Jef goes about his business like an automaton: quiet, precise, and calculating. He does not speak unless necessary, and his expression hardly changes throughout the film. It’s not until the film’s climax that you begin to see Jef’s motivations coalesce into something tangible. These final acts reel back throughout the and pull together pieces that have been there all along, and they finally give you an understanding of just how tragically dedicated to his code this unfeeling character actually is. Calling Hard Core Logo a mockumentary may be a disservice. It’s equal parts faux documentary, road film, and concert diary, jumping back and forth between painfully sharp comedic moments and shining outbursts of violent emotion. The story of a legendary Canadian punk band who reunite for one last reunion tour, and the eventual crescendos of self destruction and metamorphosis that their trip brings about, it gathers archetypes from across the rock spectrum. This includes the misled idealism and traumatic bitterness of the frontman, the successful and vain guitarist struggling to escape his roots by escaping into his own ego, the mentally unbalanced bassist, and a strange and aimless drummer named Pipefitter. The film jams these characters into one tiny and decaying van for a few final days of mayhem, scams, catharsis, and wonderfully performed concert scenes. An entrancing film that adds notes of Western and Asian cinema to aspects of French new wave filmmaking, Melville’s work on Le Samouraï had a far reaching influence on filmmakers like John Woo and Jim Jarmusch. The Killer and Ghost Dog: The Way of the Samurai pay tribute to Melville’s masterpiece of the 60s. There is a musical nature to the pacing of the film, and much like music, the notes not being played are just as important as what you hear. The use of quiet in the film is profound, creating an atmosphere around Jef that allows his actions and calm to make bold statements. Melville does not try to force understanding on his audience with excessive dialogue. The story of Jef Costello is simply what it is: laid out before you for you to dissect. The film has a distinctly Canadian flavor. McDonald intersperses scenes with long shots of the western Canadian highways and landscapes, wide open spaces that exacerbate a wrenching sense of claustrophobia when viewed for hours at a time through the window of an old van. The dialogue and pacing, informed by both Michael Turner’s book of the same name, as well as many of Hugh Dillon’s experiences playing in his own real life bands, rise and fall in a manner that keeps the viewer slightly off balance. It jumps back and forth between long uncomfortable silences, frenetic musical numbers, and the violent infighting that only familiarity can breed. And much like punk rock itself should be, it’s unpredictable and surprising. That’s the charm of the whole thing. 25 december 2009 AUXILIARY the great decade debate : where we are now transportation jet packs vs. electric cars by Lizz Schumer Here we are on the cusp of a new decade. But what do we have to show for it? Remember watching The Jetsons as kids? I think every American kid anxiously awaited the day when we could step into a tube and teleport instantly anywhere in the universe, or have a robot to do the laundry and wash dishes. Turns out, the new millennium isn’t as exciting as everyone hoped it would be. Jet packs? Not for general use. Flying cars? Not intentionally. But for all the technological disappointments, our forefathers might not think the human race is slacking off too badly. Remember Lost in Space? How about James Bond in Thunderball? It seemed like every TV show back in the day had some personal flying device incorporated. After all, what could be cooler than strapping on your jet pack and powering off “to infinity and beyond”? Here we are almost in 2010, and the average citizen still hasn’t gone where no man has gone before. The technology was pretty impressive even on the big screen, and some scientific types are still working on improving that same science today. In the 1960s, Bell Aerosystems seemed to be on the brink of personal flying machines when it created the Bell Belt Rocket. Yes, the same jet pack seen in the Lost in Space TV show and in the James Bond movie Thunderball. Originally designed for the army, these personal propulsion devices ran on hydrogen peroxide and could propel a man of average size up to 9 feet at a speed of 12 km/h. Unfortunately, Bell Aerosystems was not able to improve flying time to longer than 30 seconds, even after reviving the design in 2000. The original Belt Rocket did not have provisions for a controlled landing should its power source fail, and did not go high enough to allow for parachute usage. This put a serious cramp in Bell Aerosystem’s plans to go global, and the design is still on the drawing board today. Jet Packs International, the developer of the record-breaking Go Fast! jet pack and the world’s most advanced jet pack creator, is working on a consumer model that would be lighter, cooler, and more powerful than the Bell Belt, and appropriate for individual use. Their designs include the famous Go Fast! jet pack which pilot Eric Scott recently used to fly across the Royal Gorge Canyon in just 21 seconds: a new world record for furthest jet pack flight. Jet Pack International currently makes three models: the Jet Pack H202, H202-Z, and T-73. The H202 and H202-Z operate on hydrogen, and the T-73 uses Jet-A fuel, and all three can carry a 180-pound person. The T-73 can go the furthest and fastest, able to go for 9 minutes at 83 mph. Best of all, while the H202 and H202-Z are only for demonstration purposes, the T-73 will soon be for sale to individuals who have undergone extensive training and certification. Maybe mankind has not gotten to the point where the average person takes a jet pack to work in the morning, but we have come a long way since the first Bell Belt. And we have come up with some other pretty cool stuff. Take electric cars, for example. Contrary to popular belief, the electric and hybrid concept is nothing new. Some of AUXILIARY december 2009 26 LI FESTY LE also point you in the right direction for an alternative fuel model, if you decide to motor into the next decade in style. As mind-boggling as even these few options are to consider, other fuel alternatives are out there, albeit in a much smaller proportion. Cars running on ethanol, biodiesel, natural gas, propane, and even hydrogen are available to reduce America’s dependence on imported oil. While they certainly increase our national independence in the realm of fuel economy, several of these choices also produce less pollution than gas or diesel, and the federal government offers tax incentives to consumers purchasing qualifying alternative fuel vehicles. Okay, so it’s not a hovercraft or a teleportation device. Looking around at the technological advances in transportation we have available to us today, it’s easy to get disillusioned about all science has failed to offer in this day and age. “Where’s my robot?” many of us may ask. Still, we may not have jet packs for general consumption, and robots may not yet clean our houses, but don’t feel down about our scientific ingenuity just yet. Think of it this way: the first steam-powered engine wasn’t invented until 1769 by Nicolas-Joseph Cugnot, and Henry Ford’s automobiles did not hit the road for sale to the public until 1901. Here we are on the brink of 2010, and we have improved so far on the automobile so as not to require gas at all. Not bad for a century and change. the first cars in the 1800s were electric, conceived to counter pollution caused by horses. At that time, most houses did not have electricity, so the idea fizzled out and was only recently revived. During the Industrial Revolution, the production and use of fossil fuel-driven cars skyrocketed, along with pollution levels, which continue to climb today. Technology is a tricky thing. Everyone has their own ideas about what we should be able to do with it, but a relatively small proportion of the population actually has the scientific know-how to pull it off. So while we’re waiting for the brains to come up with the “next big thing”, it’s kind of fun to speculate about what we thought we’d be doing in this new decade of ours, and what realities we actually have to face. Electric cars, also known as EVs, are powered by an electric motor instead of a gasoline engine. The motor gets its energy from a controller, which regulates the amount of power based on the accelerator pedal. It uses energy stored in its rechargeable batteries, which in turn get energy from household electricity. EV’s produce no tailpipe emissions, reduce oil dependency, and are cheaper to produce than gasoline cars. In addition, EV’s cost only 2 cents per mile to run, and require none of the regular maintenance of a gasoline-powered car, like oil changes, emission checks, and so forth. Next issue, we’ll look at those trusty robots we all dream about picking up our socks. Wouldn’t it be nice to have your very own Rosie to skitter around behind you and make sure your house was always in-law ready? Believe it or not, we do. Or at least, some of us do. Stay tuned to hear about all the latest in home-improvement technology, or at least laziness-enhancing technology, while we bemoan the lack of C3PO in our daily lives. Hey, a girl can dream, right? What’s not to like? Historically, EV’s have not caught on because they need regular, long recharge times, as well as car companies’ reluctance to make the switch from gas vehicles to electric. With the latest obsession on “going green” and improved battery technology, all that may change. The hybrid vehicle is one option that marries the convenience of fuel with the environmental friendliness and economy of electricity. These hybrid-electric cars combine an electric motor with a power-split device and a generator with the traditional internal combustion engine, so the electric component often acts as a backup, although these cars can be configured in a variety of ways to provide improved fuel economy, increased power or additional auxiliary power for specialized situations. Some of their special features include regenerative braking in which the electric motor applies resistance to the drive train, causing the wheels to slow down while the energy from the wheels turns over the motor, acting, in this case, as an energy generator. The energy normally wasted during braking and coasting is converted into electricity and stored until needed by the electric component. The electric motor also provides additional power to assist the engine in accelerating, passing or hill climbing, which means a smaller, more efficient engine can be used. Hybrid cars eliminate the need for idling, saving valuable energy wasted by running the motor unnecessarily. If you think switching over to a new electric or hybrid fuel vehicle means you will have to cease loyalty to brands you trust or drive a little-known foreign, think again. Popular hybrid and electric models are available from BMW, Ford, Honda, Toyota, Mercendes, and even Dodge and Chevrolet. Chances are your favorite car dealer can 27 december 2009 AUXILIARY LI FESTY LE by Vanity Kills The fictional stories and dramas of Kimmy, the subculture-elitist, fetishfashionista, yet sweetly endearing queen of the goth scene that everyone loves to hate. Irritated by the uninvited tap on my shoulder, I turned to see who would so rudely drag me back down from the wonders of cloud nine. Of course it was absolutely the last person I would have expected to see… here… tonight. Upon completed rotation, I found myself staring into the murky, soulless eyes of my most favorite person in the world; the hero of adolescent, female tattoo-junkies-in-the-making and the lord and master of pointless body modification… my oh-so-fabulous boyfriend Shayne. of a trashcan colliding with the wall behind us. I had to rewind my brain back before thoughts of debilitating body-mod hookers… back to the part where I watched Shayne pick up the nearest trashcan in an ogre-like fashion (the only time I would ever use the word Ogre and Shayne in the same sentence, and you can bet Skinny Puppy is not part of this simile) and hurl it at Eli! Oh my god, it really did happen. This can’t be happening. My brain begins its descent into shock. Eli must have survived the uninvited trashcan assault because he is still next to me. I think he is asking me if I am ok, but my head is swimming so much I can’t respond. While trying in vain to put together my response of “yes”, Eli goes into rambo-cula mode and lunges forward at his now eternal arch-foe, who holds the last remaining silver stake to quash his existence, a flash of black mist. It’s hard to imagine a former pretty-boy model stepping up and throwing down, but something vaguely of the sort was unfolding before my eyes, obscured by the deliciously throat-constricting haze of cigarette and cloves. The cocktail of smoke, massive-drama-overload, and undigested tequila was now informing me that I had a very fast approaching date with the floor, and it was one I couldn’t decline… “And what exactly do you think you’re doing?” he asked in that repulsive condescending tone he always uses when trying to cast unfounded blame on me (ok, so maybe this one time blame might be founded, but it’s not like he didn’t drive me to this). The combination of tequila and makeout-central was inhibiting a coherent response from materializing, so instead I put on the best cutesy smile I could muster, tilted my head in an unassuming fashion, and hoped for the best… while I prayed Eli would swoop in to save the day. A quick side-glance his way ruined that dream, as I saw he was doing little more than staring forward, equally dumbfounded. I guess modeling school didn’t teach fortitude in the face of imminent danger. I cursed silently whilst muted nonsense came sputtering from my lips in hopes that some tangible words would emerge, and that they would miraculously be words that would quell the malevolent, everybody-hates-you look on the contorted visage of Shaynechrist. “Oh, um, hey there Shayne…I didn’t think you liked this club?” Apparently those weren’t the right words. “I’m going to ruin your life.” A hell of a response. When I woke up, I was sitting propped-up against the side of the club, in the ally that divided Sanctum and Dollar Tree. Not exactly a warm, fuzzy place you want to wake up randomly in. My blurry vision focused enough to see that Cassy and Justine were beside me with their arms around me and attempting to force-feed me a bottle life-bolstering H2O. There was a cloud of frantic OH MY GOD KIMMY ARE YOU OKs filling the air, and it was hard to focus on anything. I sighed and drank. After I had come to my senses enough my friends eagerly filled me in on what would soon be the infamous brawl-de-Sanctum: “Oh my god you should have seen Eli, he was so dashing!” “Yeah! Shayne looked like such a total wussy, he looked like he was going to cry!” “Eli totally clobbered him…I think. Well I think Shayne hit him too…a few times…” I began to chew on my bottom lip, discovering MAC’s Russian Red doesn’t taste nearly as luscious as it looks, as Shayne divulged the details which lead to his revelation of my not-so-discrete ho-ing around. “You know, Ashley told me all about your little fling with Faggotson.” That would be Trashley to most of Sanctum’s patrons. She was the club’s ubiquitous inane BME groupie (who likes to brag about how she hangs out in circles with her friends “promoter so-and-so” and “important singer such-and-such”, yet it’s fairly obvious those “friends” wouldn’t share the sentiment), who also happened to have an obsession with Shayne. Now, it’s true a lot of the tramp-stampers want to take a ride on Shayne’s disco stick, but this girl was especially pressed… she had even tried to style her unkempt purple hair into “matching” dreads. I’m not sure if the resulting dangling rats-nest’s could actually match anything of worth, but she sure had her heart set on winning over lord of the douches. Of course it had been that hooker who had rained on my parade; she had always hated the fact that I, and not her, was with Shayne, and subsequently made it her mission to put an end to that holy union. Of course she would also have been at Sanctum to see me meet up with my secret beau! I had been so blinded by this infatuation with Eli that I had overlooked this glaring flaw in my plan. Oooh, if I lived through my present ordeal I would make it my mission to rip out her stupid sub-dermal chest implants. This was a fun thought, but I was brought back to reality by the sound AUXILIARY december 2009 They went back and forth for a while, embellishing (very nearly into swoon-worthy territory) the feats of Eli The Magnificent. From their long, exaggerated version I gathered that a trashcan was thrown, blows were exchanged, and some cops who had been walking by had heard the commotion and came in to break up the fight. The whereabouts of the fighters was apparently unknown, but Justine seemed to have a more pressing matter to discuss with me. “Kimmy, you know this seriously has to be the last straw. You CAN’T stay with Shayne after what he did tonight.” “And did you see the way he was looking at Ashley!?” Cassy helpfully piped in. I looked up at Justine and could do nothing but agree with her. How could I possibly stay with Shayne after this? If it hadn’t been absolutely crystal clear before, it sure was now. Kimmy Hart was just not in the cards. 28 the PinUp Auxiliaryâ€™s playful take on the sexy centerfold pin up. Flip the page, cut out, and tac on your wall! Jeffree Star Auxiliary Magazine Presentes photographer Steve Prue hair stylist Kristin Jackson model and makeup Jeffree Star featuring fashion by Trash andVaudville december 2009 AUXILIARY name : Jeffree Star nickname : Cunt aka Mrs. Orange County birthday : 11.15.1986 birthplace : Huntington Beach, California eye color : hazel hair color : originally sandy brown turn-ons : shopping at Chanel turn-offs : men with bitchy girlfriends who call me screaming that I stole their man why do you model? : I love the ability to change my appearance and become someone I’m not for a few hours. Creating art is my life and modeling is an extension of that. how did you get into modeling? : My obsession with fashion drove me to start modeling. I wanted to be the girls in Vogue. I wanted to be airbrushed and dead inside. favorite musical artist : The Spice Girls favorite movie : The Craft, I used to be gothic, don’t shoot me. favorite tv show : Dexter favorite book : Survivor by Chuck Palahniuk favorite cocktail : semen & passion favorite color : clear favorite tattoo : JonBenet Ramsey on my arm favorite article of clothing : my Louis Vuitton fur panties favorite fashion designer : Alexander McQueen favorite fashion style : being naked but rocking an amazing hand bag favorite star/icon : Lil Kim favorite outdoor activity : tasering people who talk shit favorite indoor activity: cuddling with a butcher knife favorite club/club night/place to go out : Saddleranch in Hollywood, California, bros everywhere! anything you’d like to say to our readers? : Go to a private place and please masturbate to my photos after you read this... I promise it will be spiritual. AUXILIARY december 2009 Trash and Vaudville vest paired with vintage jean shorts and boots by Gucci. december 2009 AUXILIARY fashion by Trash andVaudville Jeffree Star style Dangerous Curves Ahead! When most people think of sex symbols nowadays, women like Megan Fox, Christina Aguilera, and Gwen Stefani come to mind. These modern ladies have evoked the sultry stylings of the classic pinup with snug wiggle dresses, belted skirts, and the highest of high heels: their homage to those sexy vixens of past eras. The pin-up is a glamour model that exudes sexiness, confidence, and playfulness through photography and drawings. Pin-ups of famous actresses, like Betty Grabel, became widely popular during World War II when soldiers would post these photographs in their lockers or bedsides. Some famous pin-up models like Bettie Page and Jayne Mansfield have become pop icons. Their images can be found on t-shirts, jewelry, and even have clothing labels using their names as inspiration. Pin-ups are timeless portraits of beauty that any gal of any size can take a fashion pointer or two from. Be prepared, there are dangerous curves ahead! styled and written by Meagan Hendrickson TOP Red studded top by Switchblade Stiletto available at Cats Like Us is an offthe-shoulder top that adds a little sexiness to this day look. ACCESSORIES A leopard print scarf is just the playful accessory for a dramatic look. You can tie it around your head or around your neck. SWEATER Man’s Ruin Cardigan by Sourpuss available at Cats Like Us is a little black cardigan that shows off some “T” all on its own so you don’t have to display your real goods. HANDBAG Poison Totebag by Lucky 13 available at Cats Like Us, because pin-ups need a place to keep all their beauty secrets in and this spacious tote does just the trick! PANTS Black skinny jeans by Mossimo because every lady needs to show off their derriere in a nice pair of jeans. Besides that “T” needs the “A” to go with it! SHOES Leopard print flats are great little shoes for this ensemble and add an animalistic flare. AUXILIARY december 2009 34 FASHI ON JACKET Black faux fur jacket by Mossimo is a practical but stylish addition. Being a hot lady does not protect you from the outdoor elements, so snuggle up in this cropped jacket for an evening of jaw dropping glances from your admirers. ACCESSORIES Elbow length leather gloves by Mossimo when paired with the faux fur jacket and leopard dress brings the “wow factor” to this ensemble. Silver wrist cuff from Bombshell Jewelry by Metal Mafia adds some simple “bling” to this evening outfit. Crystal pendant necklace from Bombshell Jewelry by Metal Mafia looks luxurious on the neck line and pairs nicely with the silver wrist cuff. HANDBAG Pinup Western Purse by Sourpuss available at Cats Like Us, because a glamorous pin-up needs a nice evening bag for her beauty secrets. Powder that nose ladies! DRESS Leopard Cincher Dress by Switchblade Stiletto available at Cats Like Us is the perfect curve hugging dress. Every pin-up needs some (or a lot of) leopard print in their wardrobe! SHOES Black patent pumps from Madden Girl by Steve Madden are simple, sophisticated, and tie all the details of this evening look together. Every pin-up needs a shiny pair of dancing shoes! 35 december 2009 AUXILIARY by Sally Reardon make it festive Once upon a time, the holiday season was a simple one. A time of eggnog-drinking, tree-trimming, and simple joys when pmacaroni necklace presents brought smiles of glee. Somewhere in our adult lives, making gifts got more difficult, becoming more about how much we spend and who we spend it on. What happened to the creative spirit behind giftgiving? Here at Auxiliary, we’ve kept the DIY spirit alive as we glue, stitch, and craft our way through everything from fashions to home décor. Holiday season doesn’t have to change from the macaroni-necklace ethos of childhood, but we have a few suggestions for an upgrade or two. In the continued mission to craft DIY that doesn’t look “homemade,” we present a few holiday projects designed to be as easy as they are attractive, complete with some custom-designed graphics to suit an alternative ilk. Buck the trend of equating thoughtfulness with a high price tag and get reacquainted with your sewing machine. You’ll be glad you did. tentacle tie The perfect gift for the boys on your list. This is a project with just a few steps and no sewing required. savage rose corsage A great gift for all the girls on your list this year. Project can be modified to be a broach or pin. Make a traditional corsage with teeth! down the rabbit hole pillow The perfect gift to warm up anyone’s home. Give this home decor item that will add a little style to any room. photographer Candylust illustrator Lina Gonzalez fashion stylist Sally Reardon models Austin Hill and Sally Reardon AUXILIARY december 2009 FASHI ON tentacle tie INGREDIENTS l Photo transfer paper for your printer. Choose light or dark (depending on the color of chosen tie youâ€™ll need to buy a different type). l 1 plain standard size tie in any color. We recommend a tie that is 100% silk purchased from your local discount formalwear store. l Iron l Ironing board l Tentacle & Ship PDF graphics file. (available as a free download at auxiliarymagazine.com, search: make it yours) DIFFICULTY 2 / 5 stars INSTRUCTIONS S T E P O N E Open graphic up as a PDF on your computer. Print to 100% scale on a sheet of transfer paper. S T E P T W O Trim around graphic allowing for a small border around image. Techniques for transferring image may differ from brand-to-brand, so consult the instructions on the package for advice on transferring techniques, iron temperature, paper removal, and set time. Make sure to align the edges of your image properly for best results! S T E P T H R E E Set your image in place and carefully iron on. Let cool. S T E P F O U R Your tie is ready for wearing and giving! 37 december 2009 AUXILIARY savage rose corsage INGREDIENTS l 2 separating zippers at least 20” in length. We used 2 black 20” separating zippers but you can use any color you desire. l Thread in the color of your choice. l Pins. l Hand sewing needles. l 1 pin back or barrette, depending on whether you want to make a hair accessory or a brooch. DIFFICULTY 3 / 5 stars Some basic handsewing is required. INSTRUCTIONS TO MAKE THE OUTER ROSEBUD : S T E P O N E Set aside one complete zipper for the first part of the project. Unzip the zipper most of the way down as shown. S T E P T W O Fold a petal as shown. The teeth of the zipper should face outwards. Construct both sides simultaneously to make sure your petal looks balanced. Pin. S T E P T H R E E Repeat step 2 but “pinch” less for a smaller petal. Pin. S T E P F O U R Your finished flower will have 6 petals (3 large, 3 small), so measure the amount used for your larger and smaller petals to make sure you will have enough zipper left over to complete the project. If needed make the petals a little larger or smaller. S T E P F I V E Secure the petals on the underside with a few small stitches. TO MAKE THE INNER ROSEBUD : S T E P O N E Unzip the remaining zipper completely so you have 2 separate pieces. S T E P T W O Snip the tip off of your remaining 1/2 of a zipper. S T E P T H R E E Roll your zipper up tightly to resemble a bud, how much zipper you use depends on how big you want your bud. Sew your bud on the underside with by hand. S T E P F O U R Fold your bud as shown to form one petal. The trick is to make a “triangle” shape on the underside, like a pleat. Pin to secure. S T E P F I V E Repeat the process to form another petal but pinch out a smaller amount. S T E P S I X Repeat step 4 to form your final petal. Pin to secure. Check to make sure your petals are to your liking and fully formed. Stitch each petal near the base to secure so that each one is sewn to the “bud”. ASSEMBLY : Place your inner rosebud on top of your outer rosebud. Sew through both layers of the rose and secure with small hand stitches. Sew your pin back or barrette by hand to the underside. Voila! A simple zipper blossoms into a beautiful handmade accessory. AUXILIARY december 2009 38 FASHI ON down the rabbit hole pillow INGREDIENTS Rabbit PDF graphics file. (available as a free download at auxiliarymagazine.com, search: make it yours) l Assorted fabric scraps or small pieces of fabric. l Solid color fabric for your pillow base. You will need 1/2 yard of fabric at least 36” wide. Avoid velvet, satin, velour, leather or PVC (they are hard to print on). Good fabric choices are plain cotton or silk. We used plain white cotton for the front and checkerboard twill. l Polyester stuffing l Sewing machine l Chalk pencil l Thread in color of your choice. l Sewing scissors or very sharp scissors. l Pins l Hand sewing needles l Ruler l DIFFICULTY 3 / 5 stars Some basic handsewing is required. INSTRUCTIONS S T E P O N E Cut 2 squares measuring 9”x11.5”. We recommend using a plain piece of standard printing paper as a guide and measuring an additional 1/2” all the way around with your ruler. Mark the lines with a chalk pencil or lightly with a plain pencil. Cut out around the lines. Pin the squares together, sew all around with a 1/2” seam allowance leaving a small opening of about 3” at the top for stuffing. STEP TWO S T E P T H R E E Turn pillow inside-out so the “good” side of the fabric faces out. S T E P F O U R Open rabbit graphic up as a PDF on your computer. Print to 100% scale on a sheet of transfer paper. S T E P F I V E Trim around graphic allowing a small border around image. Techniques for transferring image may differ from brand-to-brand, so consult the instructions on the package for advice on transferring techniques, iron temperature, paper removal, and set time. If you’re unsure where to center the image try marking the placement with the chalk pen. Set your image in place and carefully iron on, following package instructions. Let cool completely… be patient or you may get a sticky or peeling graphic! STEP SIX S T E P S E V E N Stuff your pillow until it is nice and fluffy. S T E P E I G H T Handstitch the opening closed. 39 december 2009 AUXILIARY PAPERDOLL How to Assemble Backdrop For this project you will need the following... 11x17 paper, scissors or craft knife, glue, and a cardboard box big enough to fit dolls. 1 Print or photocopy curtain. 2 Carefully cut out curtain. 3 Cut a rectangular hole out of one side. of cardboard box approximatly 15 inches long and 9 inches high. 4 Glue along edges and affix curtain cutout to box opening. Tip : Create a complete diorama by using a shoebox decorated on the inside! Note : curtain graphic without text available at www.auxiliarymagazine.com, search : paperdoll How to Assemble Your Paper Doll 1 Print or photocopy pages onto medium to heavy-weight paper (card stock preferable). 2 Using scissors or craft knife (adult supervision optional), carefully cut around figures including the rectangular base. Note the two lines on either side of the figure on the base, cut as indicated to create notches. 3 Using the same weight of paper, cut a strip approximately 6 inches long. Fold strip in half to create crease. 4 Using the notches made on the base in step 2, attach the folded strip of paper so it creates a triangle behind the figure. Adjust for balance, and... VOILA! Your figure is standing on her own! Now put some clothes on her! illustrator Kate Dolamore fashion stylist Numi Prasarn special thanks Sally Reardon THIS PAGE Purple Makes You Prettier Dress by Sew Moe Designs. AUXILIARY december 2009 UPPER THIS PAGE Inspired by a Victorian Traveller Dress in grey bamboo by Sew Moe Designs. LOWER THIS PAGE Navy Fleece Pocket Dress by Sew Moe Designs. december 2009 AUXILIARY THIS PAGE Victorian Sweater in black fleece by Sew Moe Designs with Knee Length Black Tutu with Burgundy Hem by MTCoffinzUnderground. AUXILIARY december 2009 UPPER THIS PAGE Knee Length Royal Purple TuTu by MTCoffinzUnderground. LOWER THIS PAGE Burgundy Tulle with Flocked Polka Dot Tulle by MTCoffinzUnderground. december 2009 AUXILIARY (left to right) Sk8 Belt Buckle, Rachet Belt Buckle, and R.I.P. Belt Buckle all with leather Belt Straps. AUXILIARY december 2009 s K r e w g a r p s echanhuic M ic n a g Or Lizz Sc mer interview by Luke Copping photographer ickson n eaga Hendr art director M FASHI ON Working as an industrial mechanic in the post-industrial wasteland of Northeastern NJ to designing jewelry in Los Angeles seems like an implausible transition. But that’s exactly what Rich Sandomeno did. Out of that risk was born Spragwerks, the jewelry company that fuses Rich’s passion for industrial design with his vision of a post-apocalyptic world where the boundaries between the organic and mechanic dissolve. “My grandfather was a mechanic, my father was a mechanic, so I sort of fell into it out of not having the confidence to make art,” Rich explained. “One day I woke up and realized I didn’t want to be a mechanic for the rest of my life, so I started taking night classes at the School of Visual Arts in NYC. I only took about two classes in jewelry making, but it just stuck, so I built a small shop, people started liking it, and things started to take off. Eventually I realized I had to give it 100% or not do it at all,” he said. “I had a condo to sell, so I gave myself a year to devote completely to my jewelry, to Spragwerks, so I started traveling around to shows and tattoo conventions, meeting people and selling my stuff. That’s what really got me started.” Thus began the jewelry company that has been slowly growing since 2002, from a small shop and shows at concerts and conventions to a thriving online market and retail distribution across the country. “It’s been a real grassroots movement,” Rich said when asked how he started distributing his wares. “I’m really, really grateful to be allowed to do what I do, to the people who’ve gotten into it and helped it all along. I do a lot of branding, a lot of self-promotion, but I’ve gotten really lucky.” Coming from a blue collar, working class background, Rich never saw himself becoming a successful artist. “Growing up it was always, ‘you want to do what?’ You never think it’s going to work out, that this whole thing is going to turn into something. But I never believed in the system,” he said. “I never bought into the whole idea that this wasn’t a viable life choice. You just keep focused and keep doing your thing, and eventually it’s going to work. I do whatever I have to do to keep at it: taking a job at a junk shop or doing some commission work on the side. Whatever it takes to keep going.” Looking at Rich’s industrial designs, it’s easy to see how his roots inform his art. The pieces are all handmade and wrought out of sterling silver, accented with copper, gold, and found objects. The versatility of his designs, from the eclectic wrench ring to a more traditional spike link bracelet, speaks to a variety of patrons. Yet every piece stays true to his aesthetic: industrial foundations with artistic appeal. His art is universally inspired by the world around him. “Sometimes I’ll just be walking down the street or driving down the freeway and I see something, and it just clicks,” he said. “All the inspiration, all the answers, are right there at our feet. Literally, art is everywhere.” Organic is the word best used to described Spragwerks and the jewelry, belt buckles, barware, and even wedding rings that Rich designs. Not only did the business grow up from his passion and spread largely by word of mouth, but also everything he makes comes from a commitment to lifetime durability, personal, handmade construction, and a dedication to his own sense of artistry. “It’s so fake you know, to follow what someone else says is cool, what someone else calls beautiful,” he explained. “I look at things like early weaponry, the Renaissance and Medieval periods where everyone just made their own weapons, their own tools. It was very real, very labor-intensive, and that’s what I’m all about. If there’s one thing I like to say about my art, it’s that you can’t force it. There’s something very raw about taking a piece from a two-dimensional drawing to a three-dimensional object. It changes, takes on a new meaning. At a certain point, a piece starts to speak to me, telling me what it’s going to be. I’m just the channel. I don’t make stuff to sell, do whatever it takes to make a few bucks. I’m not interested in making stuff so people can like it. I do what I do, and hope people end up liking it, and that’s the only way it can be.” Spragwerks is sold primarily online, although stores in L.A., New York, Boston, Chicago, and parts of Canada all carry the line. Rich has also worked with Revolver and Ink magazines, and he will do custom work if commissioned. “I like to make things you don’t see anywhere else,” he says. “That’s how I got into it, making belt buckles and cuffs I couldn’t find. And I’m a big believer in shameless self-promotion. If you don’t like what you make, don’t believe in what you do, how can you expect anyone else to?” Although Spragwerks draws primarily from Rich’s own artistic conceptions, he acknowledges the difficult necessity of discerning the target consumer. “I like to think of my customers as people who do things, who have definite interests,” he explained. “Maybe it’s a banker who wants skull cufflinks, or a skateboarder who wants a ratchet belt buckle, or someone’s dad who’s a mechanic and would get a kick out of the stuff. I think most people have a dark side, and I like to think about these people with a mainstream lifestyle but an interest in the counterculture.” Above all, whether he’s making gritty, tree-inspired wedding bands, earrings and pendants with torture devices, weapons, or even molar imprints, one thing informs every piece Rich does: it’s all about the tension between industrial and organic, form and function, and beauty from the unexpected. “If you follow the trends, you lose your own artistic sensibility, your own identity,” Rich finished. “Fads come and go, but style is forever.” If you don’t believe in what you do, how can you expect anyone else to? UPPER Hand polished and antiqued Suspect Belt Buckle with black leather Belt Strap. LOWER (left to right) Scapel Pendant with 16/18 inch Ball Chain, Skull Hammer Pendant with 20/22 inch Ball Chain, and Headsaw Pendant with 20/22 inch Ball Chain. photographer Jennifer Link fashion stylist Meagan Hendrickson makeup artist Maria Rivaldo hair stylist Kristin Draudt Boudoir model Agata Waclawska Dare to flirt with decadence and intrigue in these 18th century inspired designs OPPOSITE PAGE Vintage Lace Ruffled Bridal Caplet with two handmade rosettes by Cobblestone Lane paired with pink camisole and white ruffled shorts. Handcrafted Swan Song mask in opalescent bronze, trimmed in rich pink and gold by Sweet Ruin. THIS PAGE Handcrafted Swan Song mask in opalescent bronze trimmed in rich pink and gold by Sweet Ruin with Pumpkin Spice vintage slip featuring crème brûlée tulle ruffle and creamy yellow raw edged organza ruffle by Cobblestone Lane. december 2009 AUXILIARY THIS PAGE Shabby Couture slip dress with raw edged cotton and vintage lace ruffles by Cobblestone Lane. Sweet Marie mask in robins egg-blue and ivory damask featuring a portrait of Marie Antoinette by Sweet Ruin. AUXILIARY december 2009 THIS PAGE Sweet Marie mask in robins egg-blue and ivory damask featuring a portrait of Marie Antoinette by Sweet Ruin. Marie Antoinette Victorian style corset top in blue and white satin with crystal trim accents by Gigi Devlin Corsetiere. december 2009 AUXILIARY THIS PAGE Vintage Lace Ruffled Bridal Caplet with two handmade rosettes by Cobblestone Lane paired with pink camisole and white ruffled shorts. Handcrafted Swan Song mask in opalescent bronze, trimmed in rich pink and gold by Sweet Ruin. OPPOSITE PAGE Sweet Marie mask in robins egg-blue and ivory damask featuring a portrait of Marie Antoinette by Sweet Ruin. Marie Antoinette Victorian style corset top in blue and white satin with crystal trim accents by Gigi Devlin Corsetiere. AUXILIARY december 2009 december 2009 AUXILIARY Winter Manor Stylish yet functional outerwear for the cold season photographer Joey B fashion stylist Meagan Hendrickson art director Jennifer Link assistant Allison M Brown makeup artist Jessica Jean and Leane Christine hair stylist Jessica Jean models Christie Ann Campbell AUXILIARY december 2009 and Ashley Nichole James OPPOSITE PAGE Bolero Jacket in black and ivory tapestry with liberty coin button details by Shrine. THIS PAGE Black Forest Coat in black and blue tapestry with corseted back by Shrine. december 2009 AUXILIARY AUXILIARY december 2009 THIS PAGE Silence & Noise Hooded Jacket in red exclusive to Urban Outfitters. THIS PAGE Lark & Wolff by Steven Alan Twiggy Jacket in grey exclusive to Urban Outfitters. december 2009 AUXILIARY AUXILIARY december 2009 THIS PAGE Historitek elegant tailored tail coat in black with black brocade detailing by Plastik Wrap. OPPOSITE PAGE Invader nylon coat with fleece lining and a waterproof membrane with alternate taller neckline by Plastik Wrap. december 2009 AUXILIARY AUXILIARY december 2009 THIS PAGE Historitek tail coat with matching black brocade Spats by Plastik Wrap. OPPOSITE PAGE Invader coat with belted front in black by Plastik Wrap. december 2009 AUXILIARY where to buy Ben Nye www.bennye.com Lucky 13 www.lucky13.com MTCoffinzUnderground wwww.MTcoffinzUnderground.etsy.com Sourpuss www.sourpussclothing.com Cats Like Us www.catslikeus.com MAC Cosmetics www.maccosmetics.com Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics www.occmakeup.com Spragwerks www.spragwerks.com CBTâ€™s Closet www.cbtscloset.etsy.com Madden Girl by Steve Madden www.stevemadden.com Plastik Wrap www.plastikwrap.com Sweet Ruin www.sweetruin.etsy.com Cobblestone Lane www.cobblestonelane.etsy.com Make Up For Ever www.makeupforever.com Plastique www.plastique.etsy.com Switchblade Stiletto www.switchbladestiletto.com Gigi Devlin Corsetiere www.gigidevlin.com Metal Mafia www.metalmafia.com Sew Moe Designs www.sewmoe.com Trash and Vaudeville 4 St Marks Place, NYC Isette www.isette.etsy.com Mossimo www.target.com Shrine www.shrinestore.com Urban Outfitters www.urbanoutfitters.com Yaby www.yabycosmetics.com www.auxiliarymagazine.com next issue february 2010