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apnea daniel myer fashion with class fall is : millinery, plaids, flappers, lolitas, dandies, dressed up accessories, elegant latex, and the per fect black dress AUXILIARY august 2009

editor s letter

mission statement

This fall and this issue are all about class! It’s back to school, back to work, time to buckle down cause summer is over. Welcome to issue five of Auxiliary Magazine. From start to finish we have articles and editorials on being classy and sophisticated. Starting out with Dismissing Class, an editorial on manners and etiquette or the lack there of. Next we have three beauty features, a beauty update on the silent film star, Prep School beauty picks, and a photo editorial featuring millinery perfect for fall. Our film primer this issue takes you through the movies of the silent era. Find inspiration in anime and manga for gothic lolita styles and fashions. We have an article on wine, the most sophisticated of beverages. There is an article about turning back the clock and neo-Victorian culture. Learn how to make your own flapper style headband with out new DIY feature, Make It New. This issue’s Style article shows multiple accessory options for the perfect little black dress. Lastly, this issue has three fashion photo editorials, elegant latex designs from four designers taking latex in new directions, shoes and handbags that will dress up any outfit, and sophisticated plaids that will get you an A+ in class. And of course being fall this issue of Auxiliary Magazine is heavy on the fashion side. We have forty-two pages of fashion articles and photo editorials! So there is no excuse not to be fashionable or classy this fall, but be sure to keep a little edge as well, we always do!

Auxiliary Magazine. Auxiliary = alternative, supplementary, to provide what is missing, to give support.

Sincerely, Jennifer Link

And that is a lot of ground to cover. So contribute! Send us your fashion, your music, your events, your opinions, your projects, your ideas. This magazine isn’t for a select few, we don’t know it all, this magazine is for you and what we all love.

We have always had a love for the dark, the different, the unique, the creative. But from all sides we’ve heard what we love is on it’s way out, is suffering, is dying, is dead. Today an alternative aesthetic is seen more than ever. Yet the core, the base, the scene (gasp!); everyone is telling us is in a sad state. Reality is what you make it. Our goal is to provide high quality fashion editorials, photographs, and articles; unique reviews and insights on the best music out there; and to create discussion and passion about alternative lifestyles. There is a lot of amazing and creative stuff happening. We hope to find it, highlight it, and encourage it to grow. And that is why we’ve created Auxiliary Magazine; an online magazine dedicated to fashion, music, and lifestyle with a darker aesthetic. There are no other boundaries than that. That is the strong point of alternative culture; and we hope to include it all.

contributors Staff


Photographs / Illustrations

Editor in Chief Jennifer Link

Aaron Andrews Meagan Breen W. Edward Cook Luke Copping K. M. Kennedy Mike Kieffer Vanity Kills Jennifer Link Gia C. Manalio-Bonaventura Amanda Marie Lombardo Rachel Mazurek Paul Morin Numi Prasarn Sally Reardon Lizz Schumer Alison Stark Straftanz

Photographers Jennifer Link Luke Copping Ella Manor Steve Prue

Graphic Design

Illustration on 27 Michael Maglio

Fashion Editor Meagan Breen Music Editor Mike Kieffer Associate Editor Luke Copping Copy Editor Jenny Santomauro email : issue 5 : august 2009 ISSN 1948-9676

Logo Design Melanie Beitel

No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, without the permission in writting from the publisher, except small excerpts for review purposes. Submitted work, reviews, ads, and photographs are copyrighted by their respective owners and fall under previous declaration. Copyright Auxiliary Magazine 2009.

AUXILIARY august 2009

Layout Design Jennifer Link Kristen Szramkowski Luke Copping 2

Illustrations on 15 and 24 Maki Naro Image on 17

DEATH NOTE © Tsugumi Ohba, Takeshi Obata/Shueisha © DNDP, VAP, Shueisha, Madhouse SHONEN JUMP™ and DEATH NOTE™ are trademarks of Shueisha, Inc. in the United States and other countries

Photographs on 18 Britta Hüning Photographs on 26 Viona Art

Photographs on 32 and 33 Distilled Minds Studios Photographs on 34 Clark Dever Photographs on 38 and 39 Jennifer Link


on the cover apnea : 28 daniel myer : 18 fashion with class : 52

Photographer : Steve Prue Hair : Kristin Jackson Model : Apnea

editorial 4 6 7

23 quick picks 24 editor picks : Meagan Breen 24 mix tape : cover songs

editor’s letter are you going to eat that? dismissing class

lifestyle 25 26 27 28

beauty 8

chapeau millinery perfect for autumn 14 update 1920s silent film star 15 prep school beauty picks : makeup primers

in vino veritas turning back the clock my life as a goth girl the PinUp Apnea in Ego Assassin


32 make it yours the Flapper Frippery edition 34 Lip Service a fashion show by Auxiliary Magazine 38 style the perfect little black dress 40 a black tie affair the formal side of latex 44 the bare accessories shoes and handbags for fall 52 head of the class plaids : a little preppy, a little punk 59 where to buy


16 film primer : the silent era 17 fashion in media gothic lolita culture in anime and manga


18 Daniel Myer 20 music reviews Pigface, Haujobb, Unto Ashes, The Field, Freeland, Black Lung, and more 23 guest music review Straftanz 3

august 2009 AUXILIARY



of us to feed. In 1959, there were only 3 billion of us on earth to worry about. We’re projected to hit 7 billion by 2012. The sad fact is we’re probably all going to be faced with the issue of being at least partially responsible for growing our own food in the future or be held in a full-nelson by the rising costs of food across the board. Think WWII victory gardens, only there’s no war going on. We just finally had the house of cards that is our economy and agricultural industry start to fall (emphasis on start). There are a few scenarios that encompass most of the outcomes from these interesting little tidbits of information.

by W. Edward Cook

First off, perhaps we’re not going to realize what is going on until it’s too late to feed everyone. The government knows that it only stays in power so long as the next meal will be on the table, so it’s going to do its darnedest to get as much food as it can to stay in power and keep the slumbering sophomoric voting public happy. Other governments will likely do this too. Most of the world honestly won’t be able to say boo about it; so, they go hungry first. But what about after that? Will starvation on a global level cull all those hungry mouths? Or will populations linger on, while we keep eating off of everyone else’s plate? And what happens when there’s only one plate of ribs left, with China, the U.S., Russia, and crazy ol’ North Korea looking at it? I try not to think too much about this scenario.

The desire to eat good food is something that I think is engrained in anyone who’s ever had a good meal. The only problem is that most of the time, when people think of “good food” its prime requirement is usually that it tastes really good, rather than tastes really good, and is really good for you. Over the past year, I’ve been exploring the subject of food, trying to come up with a way that is both delicious and good for you. It sadly, is going very poorly. There are a few problems with the desire for a good tasting, good for you food. They are frequently both time-consuming and expensive.

The second is that we start to figure out a plan to feed all these hungry mouths; and we discover that it’s not practical to eat meat with every meal because it takes more energy and land devoted to the raising of meat than it does to growing fruits and vegetables. We may even begin insisting on better quality food, but I find it more likely that we’ll just keep on churning out industrially produced and poisoned plant food to fill the gap. Fewer hormones and antibiotics, more pesticides and chemical fertilizers. Should we continue on this road, we’re going to bankrupt the world’s soil content, and then see above.

Fast food is frequently the farthest thing in the universe from “good for you”. I’ve yet to see “100% certified organic” on a drive-thru menu anywhere. If you don’t how horrible this stuff is for you, go see Super Size Me by Morgan Spurlock. It will guarantee that the smile on a certain clown’s face will seem more darkly sarcastic than warmly inviting. On the other hand, you can buy all organic produce, and 100% organically raised, grass-fed beef, which can range anywhere from 9% to 68% (53.25% on average) more expensive than its non-organic corn-fed counterparts. (That’s a personally developed statistic, after a quick phone call to the local grocery store.) And that’s all before you get to cooking it.

The third is mainly the world instituting strict population control laws. There may be a mix of the second scenario. What I’m really really hoping for is this fourth scenario (and this is a long shot, the way that hitting a bull’s eye from across the whole barroom is a long shot). We, as a species, take this opportunity as a wake up call. We admit that our philosophy and practice have been flawed from the beginning. We develop enough foresight to see the results of our actions. How does this fix our food problem? You know those victory gardens I talked about before? Everyone grows them – staples of the diet and any luxuries you’re not willing to pay the higher cost for. Speaking of organic farming, damn near everything needs to be done this way in order to ensure that we are eating food and not poison. That goes for the animals we may have to raise on our own as well. Food is going to be expensive, and the more we grow ourselves, the more affordable it will be to live. We’re also going to have to stop having a zillion kids. I know that large families are a blessing, but so is a lack of world starvation. When the day comes, I’ll have two kids maximum so I’m at least not causing any more inflation in the world population. Other possibilities are having just one child. Or none. Or adopting. You get the idea.

If you want to eat well, and avoid all that expense, then it would seem you’re stuck with growing your own produce, and raising your own food-animals. Being that I’m only willing to go so far, I’ve investigated growing my own organic produce and becoming mostly vegetarian. In this venture, I was quickly confronted with a multitude of issues related to horticulture. To produce produce on the level we have become accustomed in present-day America, one has to grow large beautiful fruit from plants under neigh-perfect conditions. Plants require different amounts of growing space, sunlight, soil acidity, density, and nutrient levels. This is before one begins to think about the subject of weeds, insects, larger herbivores, and allelopathy between the plants themselves. Plants require a large degree of care, which is why I suppose the task of growing food was allocated to specialists called “farmers” to begin with. It has struck me as odd that the only affordable food in what we are told is the greatest nation on earth, has pesticides, antibiotics, and hormones as the “secret ingredient” in all our cheap affordable cuisine. Before industrially produced food, ALL food was produced organically and seemingly the system wasn’t so bad. However, it was not possible to get all foods you wanted, regardless of season or world-weather conditions. I’ve heard stories from days past about oranges being given as Christmas presents due to the difficulty in getting them at that time of year in the Northeast. A glass of orange juice with breakfast in the morning was a luxury. There were also less

AUXILIARY august 2009

It may be that we are all already circling the drain, and we don’t even know it. We may be doomed to nutritious food as a luxury, while we march on our way to our own dystopian future where we’re all weird mutants from a low-budget 1970s science fiction movie, destined to be mocked by MST3K. God willing, there is enough time left to get some of that fourth scenario going so that those people in power who are smarter, and more qualified than myself to find better ways to fix this whole mess. In the meantime, I’m going to go figure out how to pollinate a dwarf plumcot tree… 6




by Gia C. Manalio-Bonaventura

It’s noon on a Friday. I have already separated two boys who were about to duke it out near the bathroom, explained to another that it is not proper to spit out the window, and asked three girls how they would feel if the girl they were making fun of was making fun of them with her friends. I have another two and a half hours to go before the final bell rings and my middle schoolers are out the door. Next thing I know I am overhearing that Aleesha in the eighth grade wants to go out with Jim, but Tara is already going out with Jim and Aleesha is Tara’s bff and Trish is going to tell Tara about Aleesha and she’s going to tell everyone at the dance tonight to watch out for Aleesha because she’s two-faced and even has some naked photos of herself on her Myspace. The girls don’t make an effort to conceal from me what they’re saying. They don’t care; I’m the “cool” sub. They think I understand. And I do. I understand all too well. And I interrupt project work in English class to launch into a spiel about fighting and spitting and gossip and posting naked photos on the Internet. I explain to my captive audience that in a few years they will be young adults and none of this type of behavior will be tolerated. Hitting will never solve their problems. Spitting (especially on each other) can actually be illegal. And gossip is just never nice, nor will it ever be tolerated in my classroom. I want to tell them that all this stuff that is going on with them (the anger, the insecurity, the drama) will end. But I can’t.

es with hands placed lower than they should be according to some unwritten school policy. For the obvious reasons, I can’t serve them coffee to sober them up and tell them to get a room, but that’s okay, in an hour or so I’ll be dancing to Combichrist and in my own little world, far far away from any responsibilities and with people who are old enough and mature enough to know how to act in public. When I get to the club, there are the usual suspects standing outside having a smoke. I have to dodge the spray of spit coming toward me from one particular guy to my left. I shoot him a look of disgust and almost go off on what would be my fourth spiel of the day. I tell myself you can’t lecture adults, and I keep walking. It’s pretty crowded inside and I stand on the sidelines scoping things out and looking for my friends. They’re there, in the corner, talking. I see them pointing and giggling at some girl on the dance floor. When I join them, they tell me about her big fashion faux pas. They ask if saw the “artistic modeling” photos on her Myspace. The people who run the night have worked really hard putting tonight together. The promoter had to pull a lot of strings to get the famed guest DJ to spin. The fliers had been worked on for weeks and a large group of club goers were coordinated to distribute them. Tonight, some of the club goers pick up the fliers and comment that they could have done a better job, others are bitching because they didn’t get the guest DJ spot. Others dance without any idea that any of this is going on or why. They don’t care how or why this night happens, just that it does.

This is my first year in a school, and I am impressed by how much preparation goes into every class every day. It’s like every day is a multi-venue event, and all of the people in the school work together to pull every day off. The morning bell rings and here comes the crowd of ten-to-fourteen year olds, some walking responsibly, others acting like fools. In other words, kids being kids. Most of them will grow out of it. Preparation for the dance that night isn’t that different. The teachers, administrators, and volunteers at school have been planning it for months. The kids don’t see all the behind the scenes things that go into planning the event. They don’t know or care how the date was chosen, where the DJ or the decorations come from, or who made the fliers posted all over school. They do know if the DJ plays the newest Black Eyed Peas song.

I go out for some fresh air when I notice a bit of a scuffle over by the parking lot. It’s hard to tell what’s going on; I don’t like to jump to conclusions because usually it’s just drunk people fooling around. Just like the middle school kids. Only drunk. And older. And well, you know. I realize I know one of them and then instantly the responsible teacher part of me jumps in between them and tries to calm my friend down. Like with the kids, I never think that I’ll get hit. Sooner or later this way of thinking is going to get me a black eye, but at this time, I’m not even slightly considering that. All I care about is keeping people safe and out of trouble. In other words, (out of the) classroom management.

I’m going to be a chaperone. It’s like a horrifying epiphany when I realize I’m old enough and responsible enough to be chaperoning a school dance. I tell myself it’s okay because later, I will go to my own dance of sorts at a local goth/industrial night and go back to my carefree and not-old-yet, not-as-responsible self. It won’t be that I will try to be irresponsible; it will just be that my chaperoning skills will not be needed. We’re all adults at the club.

My club side comes out in the classroom once in a while, but now I notice more and more that my teacher side is coming out in the club scene. Sometimes there isn’t that much of a difference with the participants in both situations—just age. I think about that saying, “Everything I needed to know I learned in kindergarten,” and I think about all the mini etiquette lessons I’ve given and gotten over the years and how try to live by them. I think about all the ways being in a room full of sixth graders and having classroom management skills prepare you for life. I think about how humorist and literary critic Will Cuppy said, “Etiquette means behaving yourself a little better than is absolutely necessary.”

At the dance I stand on the sidelines watching it all happen. It’s reminiscent of my own junior high dance days, only without any angst (my own at least). Everything goes off without a hitch, pretty much. Of course, there are the regular problems, kids too hopped up on candy and soda and bouncing around out of control and slow danc-

Let us know what you think! We think it is important that alternative culture has a voice on important and current topics.

Our editorial section is for your opinions. email : 7

august 2009 AUXILIARY

photographer Luke Copping fashion stylist Meagan Breen makeup artist Rachel Mazurek hair stylist Robyn Elizabeth Hancock assistant Ian Robert Lambert models Michele Stanek, Kelleth Cuthbert,


and Kate O’Connor

Millinery, per fect for

autumn and fit for a lady.

AUXILIARY august 2009

THIS PAGE Novenlux Chapeaux Grey Tilt hat with Soft and Deeply, Darkly Yours Neck Ruffle in black french lace by Misfit Chic. OPPOSITE PAGE Topsy Turvy Design Darcy green velvet bonnet with orange velvet and feather accents. august 2009 AUXILIARY

AUXILIARY august 2009

THIS PAGE Hey Sailor! Brown Satin tricorn hat with turquois brown plaid knife pleat trim, pair of full pheasant wings and Steampunk Clockhands Choker by Totus Mel. OPPOSITE PAGE The Indra Millinery Deconstructed Bonnet with The Indra Millinery matching Deconstructed Cameo choker.

august 2009 AUXILIARY

AUXILIARY august 2009

OPPOSITE PAGE Topsy Turvy Design 1860s style riding hat, The Rochester with The Black Wedding rose necklace by Londons Gate. THIS PAGE Hey Sailor! Magenta Topper hat with turquoise and brown trim and Soft and Romantic Neck Ruffle in light blue by Misfit Chic. august 2009 AUXILIARY



making the old new again a ut hor Rac h e l Mazu re k p h o to grapher Lu ke Co ppin g m ak e u p art ist Rac h e l Mazu re k h air s tylist Je n n ife r Bu sc aglia m o d el Krist e n S zramko w ski

Over the years many eras have had their specific looks emulated in fashion and counterculture, but few are as timeless or underutilized as the look of the Twenties silent film star. A paragon of style and femininity that can easily be adapted to today’s fashions, this is a great go-to look for upscale and formal events if you want to do something a little different.

hair A multitude of hairstyles will work for a silent film star look. For our look, we opted for loose curls. Keeping the hair well maintained and healthy is key for this hairstyle. You might also try a slicked-down, short hairstyle like the Eton crop. Look to silent stars like Louise Brooks, Lillian Gish, Greta Garbo, and Clara Bow for inspiration. Many of these hairstyles translate well today and can be updated with subtle, modern touches.

eyes The classic silent film eye makeup is heavy and overdone to help your eyes stand out for the camera. This can be translated to a sultry, fashionable look that references the classic version. Work with neutrals and subtle colors like jewel tones and navies. It’s key to remember that you are not creating a smoky eye; strike a balance between smudging the liner and keeping the shadow clean edged.

lips For a contemporary spin on the silent film star, try darker berry and purple shades on your lips. The trick is to create a defined and only mildly exaggerated lip shape for a striking but wearable look. Either a matte or slightly glossed lip will work, but stay away from glosses that create a wet or high gloss look. Your lips should be a compliment to your eyes, not competition. Application may take some practice until you find a shape that works best for you and achieves the desired style.

AUXILIARY august 2009



Prep School by Vanity Kills

Today’s lesson: prepping your face, eyes, and lips for color. What follows is a curriculum designed to school you in products that fill in wrinkles, minimize pores, and neutralize discoloration. The lesson will give you some tips for daytime, nighttime, photo shoots, and any other situation you may encounter. If your face is your canvas, then primers are the gesso that ensures evenly smooth application of foundations, highly pigmented eye shadows, and lipsticks. Banish flakes, creasing, and feathering for good while pursuing cosmetic standards of excellence that really make the grade.

SKIN your best face forward Photo Finish Foundation Primer - Smashbox available at . $36-42 Foundation worn alone often has a nasty habit of settling in the fine lines around your mouth, near your eyes, and on your forehead, which can get you mistaken for your own mother after an unforgiving camera had its way with your face. It’s all fun and games until you get busted for using phony identification to buy beer. Improve the odds of scoring a flattering photograph on your university student ID card by applying a thin layer of Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer, a clear, non-greasy smoothing agent, after you’ve moisturized your face. Massaging a tiny dollop of Photo Finish fills in said lines, pores, and scars, thus allowing foundation to actually do its job!

it extra cred

Too Dark Park Eyeshadow - Miss-X Cosmetics available at . $17 Prim and proper enough for your day job, fierce enough for the dance floor, Miss X Aesthetic Laboratories Eyeshadow in Too Dark Park is a class act indeed. While winged, dramatic eyeliner is generally frowned upon at most 9 to 5 gigs, a smidgen of this versatile navy blue pigment applied closely to your lashline is a pretty yet professional substitute to the predictable drab brown shades that office ladies seem to love so much. For some corporate vamp flair, wet the tip of flat angle brush, shake off excess water, and dip into the pigment. Draw a line across the upper lid as close to your lashes as possible. In the after-hours, try a midnight blue alternative to the classic black smoky eye to sultry up schoolgirl uniform staples such as pleated plaid minis, knee socks, and Mary Janes. Voila! You’ll be an instant hit at “Back to School” fetish nights that proceed to spring up like clockwork every September. It is also worth noting that this has to be the most epic name for an eye shadow EVER!

it extra cred

Mat Velvet + Matifying Foundation - Make Up For Ever available at . $34 For added photo op insurance opt for a matte finish foundation such as Make Up For Ever Mat Velvet +Matifying Foundation. Whether you’re posing under studio lights for a yearbook photo or braving the universally unflattering fluorescent monstrosities at your local DMV, steer clear of any face products that contain SPF. SPF possesses a reflective quality that can discolor your complexion when coupled with flash photography. Admittedly, while this makeup must-have is an essential component of prephoto shoot primping, its lack of SPF makes your skin vulnerable to damaging UVA/ UVB rays when worn outside. Follow the golden rule and you’ll save yourself the headache of wonky photos AND premature ultraviolet radiation induced wrinkles. Pair with a broad-spectrum sunscreen containing a minimum SPF of 30 for outdoor adventures, but wear alone on shoots.

LIPS lip service Prep + Prime Lip - MAC available at . $17.50 Extend the life of your lip color by rockin’ a coat of MAC Prep + Prime Lip under your gloss, lipstick, or stain. Why? Because, quite frankly, you have a higher list of priorities than reapplying your lipstick every 10 minutes.

it extra cred

Pomegranate Crush Lip & Cheek Stain - Stila

EYES keep your eye on the prize

available at . $24 Stila Pomegranate Crush Lip & Cheek Stain is truly the multi-tasking overachiever of the cosmetic world. For starters, it’s chock-full of pomegranate extracts that respond to your body’s unique pH level which in turn causes it to transform into a personalized light reddish purple hue. Infused with vitamins A, C, E, AND antioxidants, its light years ahead in terms of health, especially compared to your college cafeteria. Perfect for days when you’re running late for your Cultural Anthropology course and spackling on layers of makeup is the last thing on your mind. This yummy scented stain reminiscent of those wonderfully fragrant Crayola markers you doodled with in the fourth grade adds a subtle hint of rich plum color without making your otherwise bare naked and underslept face look vulgar or garish.

Eyeshadow Primer Potion - Urban Decay available at . $17-22 Ever spent an hour meticulously blending four different shadows before your weekly nightclub pilgrimage only to discover that two drinks and three Covenant songs into the evening all your painstakingly applied work has melded into one huge Amy Winehouse looking mess? To prevent smudging, creasing, and fading of any shadows, pigments, and liners you plan on using, lightly coat your entire eyelid area with an eye shadow primer, such as Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion prior to unleashing half the MAC counter on your eyes. I always found this particular shadow base to be more reliable than any other eye primer on the market today. It will keep your eyeliner experiments safe ‘till last call. Alas, you’re still responsible for who you go home with! 15

Remember boys and girls, it’s a crime not to prime!

class dismis sed

film primer :





If you’re the type of person who complains about subtitles or likes your black and white films colorized, STOP READING NOW. This primer is not for you. We’re going back…way back to before talkies ruined the silver screen. Stars like Lon Chaney and Charley Chaplin are not just novelties in the world of cinema. They were groundbreakers whose work continues to influence new generations of actors and directors.

by Luke Copping & Rachel Mazurek

The Battleship Potemkin 1925 directed by : Sergei Eisenstein A propaganda film that has stood the test of time, The Battleship Potemkin is remembered now for its cinematic style and technique rather than its message. One particular sequence on the Odessa steps was so influential that homage has been paid to it in numerous other films considered masterpieces in their own right, including The Godfather and Brazil.

Der Golem, wie er in die Welt kam 1920 directed by : Carl Boese & Paul Wegener A fine example of the German Expressionist movement, this film is the third of Wegener’s films to feature the titular golem; it is a prequel to the other films and the only one of the series not considered long lost. An early, effective film in the horror genre, the plot is steeped in Jewish and European folklore and noted for its innovative cinematography, character and set design.

The Temptress 1926 directed by : Fred Niblo Bow, Crawford, Pickford, Brooks, and Gish; the 20s spawned many actresses remembered well into the new millennium. Few, however, were as memorable as Greta Garbo, known best for many of her later talkies. The Temptress stands as the finest example of her silent film work still in existence. Garbo’s grace, beauty, and talent created a lasting and legendary impact on cinema that many actresses have tried and failed to emulate.

The Mark of Zorro 1920 directed by : Fred Niblo A defining moment in the action and swashbuckling genres was the release of The Mark of Zorro, starring Douglas Fairbanks in the title role. Fairbanks was best known for his high-flying adventure films and as one of the founding members of United Artists. After the release of this film, he was considered one of the greatest of the great leading men and unofficially crowned “The King Of Hollywood”. Despite the overpowering shadow of its star’s personal life, The Mark of Zorro defined the titular character as a cinematic hero whose adventures would go on to be adapted for film over forty times.

It 1927 directed by : Clarence G. Badger Ever wondered where the phrase “the IT girl” comes from? Clara Bow was the first IT girl and gained the moniker from this romantic comedy. Bow was a versatile actress able to bring both a compelling sexuality and lighthearted humor to her roles. Much like Harold Lloyd, she was one of the performers of the era who could truly embody the spirit and optimism of the Roaring Twenties.

Dr. Mabuse: The Gambler 1922 directed by : Fritz Lang Aside from Lang’s other great works, Metropolis and M, he was also highly regarded for his series of films concerning the nefarious misdeeds of one Dr. Mabuse, a master criminal and psychologist. This first film in the series, with a running time of four hours, is a worthwhile marathon and one of Lang’s underappreciated treasures.

The Unknown 1927 directed by : Tod Browning When horror icons Lon Chaney and Tod Browning come together the results should be nothing less than demented, and The Unknown delivers on that promise. A twisted love triangle involving circus performers (a recurring motif for Browning, director of Freaks) turns deadly in this 1927 horror masterpiece that many other actors consider Chaney’s greatest performance.

Safety Last! 1923 directed by : Fred C. Newmeyer Often overlooked due to the infrequent distribution of his films in the past, Harold Lloyd was the most prolific and optimistic of the silent comedians. His work epitomized the 1920s optimism lacking in the work of such contemporaries as Charlie Chaplin, Buster Keaton, or Harry Langdon. The image of Lloyd, a superb physical comedian and early stuntman, dangling precariously from a clock’s hands in Safety Last is a classic cinematic picture that has been referenced in a number of films well into modern times.

The Man Who Laughs 1928 directed by : J. Grubb Alexander Walking the line between melodrama, horror, and action, this early American/German adaptation of Victor Hugo’s novel is often remembered for the makeup effects that created protagonist Gwynplaine’s nightmarish rictus. The Man Who Laughs is a genre-bending, often overlooked gem as notable as similar films The Hunchback of Notre Dame and The Phantom of the Opera. The image of Conrad Veidt’s Gwynplain is so striking that it is cited as one of the key visual influences in the development of Batman villain The Joker.

Aelita: Queen of Mars 1924 directed by : Yakov Protazanov In the realm of silent film, most people initially head directly for the old Hollywood classics or for the eeriness of European Expressionist movements. Very rarely does anyone look further east to explore the Russian and Asian silent masters. This particular Soviet film showcases set design that was unrivaled among its contemporaries. Many early elements that would coalesce into the science fiction genre are notably present in this striking film. AUXILIARY august 2009




fashion media in

gothic lolita culture in anime and manga

by K. M. Kennedy The term gothic lolita has been cropping up a lot over the past decade. But, what exactly is it? Gothic lolita is a Japanese fashion revolution, which emulates meticulous fashion marrying gothic and childlike influences. It is a style and ideal that has been around since the 1970s in Japan. In recent years, it has found its way into Japan’s manga and anime. Manga reflects Japanese culture, much like the comic book, its American counterpart, reflects American culture so it seems only natural the one would eventually find its way into the other. Some may look at the dolly obsession of lolita style and cringe, but don’t let the term itself deceive you. Despite obvious reference to the Vladimir Nabokov novel Lolita, the only similarity between the fictional character Lolita in the book and the style of clothing using her name is the childlike appearance. Gothic lolita is mostly about the care put into delicate dresses, stockings, ruffles, and laces; it’s about fashion and the many hours it takes for those devoted to the culture to create original outfits and ideas. The originators of lolita culture prided themselves on their homemade garments and accessories. Not a detail is missed, from the hat on their head to the contacts that match their dress to the purse and/or umbrella. All the way down to the shoes, every inch is well thought out. Lolita style started to take off in the States in the late 1990s when Visual Kei (or gothic rock) bands started wearing the fashions. Emilie Autumn is one example of a “Loli” in the music industry bringing gothic lolita culture to the States. Her and her crumpets incorporate the fashion into their stage costumes, dressed as broken dolls. The rising popularity of gothic lolita fashion has caused it to start to pop up in all sorts of places. Death Note is one popular manga that utilizes gothic lolita culture. Originally published in 2003, Death Note turned anime by 2006, and will be released as a live action film in 2009. This is the story of a notebook dropped from the demon realm that allows its owner to kill anyone just by writing the potential victim’s name. Misa Amane, one of the notebook’s owners, represents the gothic lolita trend to the “T”: childlike and innocent with a touch of dark. Clad in nearly complete black, but topped with pigtails, she shows how deadly, yet meek, the style can truly be. Her childish and carefree smiles can be more intimidating than reassuring. Miss Amane has a troubled past, a successful modeling and singing career, but also a keen sense of fashion. She appears in a different outfit in nearly every episode, which gives fans oodles of ideas for their own fashion creations. Her outfits usually consist of black lace dresses, hair up, curled, and styled. And pretty shoes and stockings. The style not only informs her dress but also her surroundings, such as the decorating in her bedroom, which is a common for true lolitas. Even the Gothic Lolita Bible, a magazine for gothic lolita culture, has dedicated a section of their magazine to room decor. Another example of gothic lolita fashion in manga is Princess Ai, the love child of Courtney Love, Ai Yamaza, Misaho Kujiradou, and DJ Milky. This series originally ran from 2004 to 2006 producing three books, a fan book, and an upcoming animated film. You can see the unique, dark apparel throughout the entire manga series. Though Ai’s outfits are more elaborate, and usually torn, it still fits the criteria of lolita. She incorporates lacey dresses, stockings, corsets, and elaborate jewelry, but her personal style consists of strings of pearls and heart shaped items from her jewelry box to her necklaces. Each chapter presents a new, exciting outfit. Manga fans have enjoyed the vivid imagery in Princess Ai so much that they have created a fan book, Princess Ai: Rumors From The Other Side. Princess Ai will too be turned into an animated film, though no information on a release date has been announced. Le Portrait de Petit Cossette is a prime example of gothic lolita fashion in anime and manga, running only two volumes through the manga publisher TokyoPop. In 2004

they created an OVA (original video animation) that is different than an animated series in that it shortens the story to five or six episodes. Though the main character is much younger than those normally portrayed, she still fits the stereotype easily. Cosette is slightly different than other gothic lolita manga. The original story was set in the late 18th century, so her fashion sense is the popular trend in her time, and not necessarily a statement of rebellion. She wears full lace gowns, complete with gloves, ruffles, and petticoat. By keeping her hair free and loose in a ribbon, you can picture her as an innocent child. Her story is a representation of what causes an individual to prefer or appreciate the darker side of life, since her story is of tragedy and tragic love. Many of these animated films and television series make their way into the homes and the closets of their dearest fans. The ultimate sign of true media submersion is the recent appearance of cosplay, fans taking on the costumes of their favorite characters in a friendly competition with other fans. Cosplayers spend years, or at least months, playing out their costumes in order to show them off just a few times a year. Devoted lolita’s frown on cosplaying, since they see this fashion as a lifestyle, not a costume. Chobits (originally published in 2001 and turned anime in 2002) is a fan favorite among cosplayers in the gothic lolita genre. And even though Chobits spans more than one genre of anime, Chi, the main character portrays classic loli style. Chobits is a complicated, adult oriented story, and even though it portrays Chi as a loli, her particular style is much more seductive and adult. Her elaborate dresses portray the lace features that are classic to gothic lolita, but show a great deal more curves and legs then the traditional style. Usually the front of the dress sits just below her hips, but is complimented with a long flowing train in back. She wears garters and thigh highs, which is uncommon. Her hair is decorated with flowers and ribbons but free to flow and circle around her body. But again, most of the time she is dressed in short dresses, reminiscent of a maid uniform. Gothic lolita fashion and culture is one of the many aspects of our new generation, filling that gap and pointing us in a new and exciting direction that I hope continues to grow and prosper. I suppose it’s not enough to say that this fashion preference is merely a culture shift, or even a lifestyle change. Because it spans more than that, it has changed the lives of so many, and has even caught the attention of mass media such as anime and manga. This generation craves something else, and people are finally catching on to that idea. Creative individuals can grab dozens of fashion ideas and styles just by watching a handful of anime with this theme. Or at the very least, find the anime entertaining.

Misa Amane of the anime Death Note in gothic lolita attire

daniel myer. by Paul Morin photographs by Britta Hüning

You’d think with modern technology and all the wonders it brings to our table that making a phone call to Germany would be a fairly simple task. As I found out on the morning when I was scheduled to have an interview with Haujobb’s Daniel Myer, this is not the case. At least not for me.

Currently Myer’s status is a bit up in the air; after announcing the dissolution of Haujobb in numerous scathing interviews geared loosely around the state of the music business, it looked like he was calling it a day. Focusing his attention on his side projects, Architect and Destroid, and his new status as a full-time member of Covenant, it seemed Haujobb would become a forgotten name in the annals of EBM/ industrial fame. But with the recent re-release of Homes and Gardens (dubbed version “2.0” because of remastering and remixes), and internet rumors that Myer and co-conspirator Dejan Samardzic were at it again, we felt it was time to contact him and find out what, exactly, is going on.

I could chalk it up to the fact that I’m a Luddite, still often bewildered by my DVD player’s remote control. Or I could blame my phone service provider, who continually reminded me at the time of the interview that my call could not be completed. Either scenario seems particularly embarrassing to me considering that this is Daniel Myer I’m trying to reach, the same guy who pioneered industrial/EBM in the early 90s. The same guy who opened the doors of perception with Solutions for a Small Planet, after which the electronic music scene would never be the same. In short, I am having technical problems trying to reach a guru of electronic music.

AUXILIARY august 2009

I don’t know what kind of living-space Myer exists in, but I imagine it as some futurist home with technology straight out of science-fiction readily available and on display everywhere; a fantasy-land between Gary Numan and Bladerunner. Of course, I


MUSI C Are you still working with Covenant? DM : Yes. And I love the guys. I am very thankful to be with Covenant. I am a full member, [have been] since March last year.

don’t really think he lives like this, but while I am pounding away at the keys on my cell-phone like a primate in a cave, this is what I imagine. Fortunately for me, Daniel does keep a computer relatively close at hand, or at least something capable of sending and receiving information. And fortunately for me, Daniel is both understanding and gracious enough to agree to an interview by internet. A few minutes later, we are connected by the wonders of technology and sharing a discussion about the future of Daniel Myer, of Haujobb, and of electronic music.

Your former band mate Bjorn Junemann covered “Homes and Gardens (3.0)” on the latest Stendag release. Any thoughts on that? Are you working with him at all or is he on his own? DM : It’s his own. Looking back on your early work (for Homes and Gardens 2.0), do you have different thoughts or feelings about your musical journey? How do you feel about your older material as opposed to where you are now? DM : I think we could have made it big. After Solutions [for a Small Planet] we were on the top of our game. But we made some bad decisions in the past. Our older material is good, for what it is. We were young. Everyone has to start somewhere and of course you start with copying the artist you like the best. [smiles]

Something I really admire about Haujobb is your ability and drive to reinvent yourself on each new album; you’re not content to just find a formula and stick to it unlike so much of the current EBM field. So how is Haujobb 2010 different from the past? Daniel Myer : It’s funny, because when I think about it, it might have to do with our living situation. For the last 12 years or so I almost lived like a nomad, always on the run, never in the same place for very long. So every album ever since Solutions for a Small Planet was created with me and Dejan being apart for most of the time. This has changed now. Dejan moved to Leipzig last year. So we are in the same city and I am not traveling like crazy. I mean, I am still touring with other bands and for my production job I go from time to time to a different city. But now we can hang out again, you know. So I guess you can say that Haujobb 2010 is back where it all started, with me and Dejan being friends. We like to hang out, we like the same music, we like the same movies, etc... So it’s like a fresh start.

Drum and bass influences appear in many of your musical projects. How do you incorporate that into your music? What D&B producers are interesting or inspiring to you? DM : I still like a lot of that stuff and with Architect I go back to producing D&B tunes. But it’s more [of an] open kind of thing. I like it very rough, with lots of breaks and old school jungle beats. Therefore I really like End.User. I worked with him before and I will work with him again.

There seems to be some controversy surrounding the current state of the band. What is the band doing right now and what will you be doing in the near future? DM : We stopped playing live with Haujobb because it was just not worth it anymore. We couldn’t afford to pay our guest musicians without losing money. So now we just try to get back to our old strength, I guess. We don’t want to push it, we take it slow. Dejan has his day job, and I still do my other projects. We are currently working on a compilation track for EAR [EAR Compilation, Old School Electrology Volume 1].

For Ninetynine there were songs that featured guest vocalists. Do you prefer to sing you own songs or do you like handing control over to other performers? DM : I like to sing my own songs. But for Ninetynine we were in a complete other state of mind. We thought we should show the world what we are capable of doing. No one really cared though. [laughs] You have been critical of the acceptance of the last few Haujobb releases by the buying public. Are you still critical? Or is that now water under the bridge so to speak? DM : Yes, it is.

Are you currently playing out? As a band? As a DJ? If so, where? DM : No. Not with Haujobb, at least. I also quit DJing in the electro/industrial scene. But I play with Covenant and every once in a while with Diary of Dreams. And there are also some shows planned with Destroid for the end of the year.

Do you feel any of your other projects are more warmly received than Haujobb? DM : Destroid might have been, with better promotion...

Are there any plans to tour in North America? DM : With Covenant, yes.

You have always been in touch with the latest equipment, toys, and gadgets. Can you talk about what you’re currently using? Are there new gadgets you’re particularly impressed with? DM : I am, but I am not using it. [laughs] It’s all too expensive. In the Diary of Dreams studio, the band I am producing, I have all kinds of fancy toys. Like a very powerful Apple computer, big screens, new software, like all the latest Native Instruments stuff, etc. I really like that. And for myself, I have a little studio setup. Just a laptop, a decent soundcard, and monitor speakers. I used to install every VST plug-in I could get my hands on, [laughs] but now I stick to what I know and think is good. For example my two favorite toys are from Vemberaudio, a VST synth called Surge and a VST sampler called Short Circuit. Good stuff. For the new Haujobb material we also went back in the basement, to get our old Juno 106 and other older synths that are still there. [smiles]

Your project Architect has been a force in the IDM community. Are you going to continue to release albums under Architect? DM : Well, the sales are just down. I used to do quite well, for an IDM product, I guess. But the sales went down to 20% of what they used to be. But I will continue, because music is my passion, my life. I try to break into different scenes with Architect. For example I have my first gig in Bristol next month at a dubstep/breakcore event. I never made it to the motherland of jungle and D&B, even when I was quite popular in Germany as one of the leading artists in that genre… at least this is what the magazines were saying. [grins] So I will continue with Architect, but with a more open to other genres kind of sound. For the next record I will work with vocals for example. The guys from Klangstabil provided some raps for a couple of tracks.

What are you currently listening to? DM : All kinds of stuff. I get a lot of inspiration from music blogs. I like hypem. com to keep me up to date.

What about the other side projects, are you going to continue working with any of them or is Haujobb going to become the main focus? DM : The main focus is surviving. The music business is just down, on a low-point. So I try to make everything, to still be able to work in the music field. I am trying to get a sample library out on Zero-G, and I am still trying to get back in the videogame industry. I wrote a soundtrack for a game back in 2000.

Last but not least, is there anything you’d like to tell die-hard Haujobb fans that are anxiously waiting to hear from you again? DM : Thank you for waiting. There is more to come, I promise! 19

august 2009 AUXILIARY

music reviews


Pigface - 6

released by Full Effect on 9 June 2009 data : 6th album . 11 tracks . 48:43 run time . reviewed by : Mike Kieffer genre : industrial rock Pigface, the industrial supergroup, has finally released a full-length album of all new material since 2003’s Easy Listening… For 6, Martin Akins, the ringleader, has assembled an all-star industrial cast of around 30 musicians. Knowing most of the names or at least the bands they came from, and having truly enjoyed the 2003 Pigface effort, I had high expectations. It was unfortunate that after the first listen I felt un-satisfied. It wasn’t a complete waste of my time, there were a few tracks that I found enjoyable but mostly it was average and I actually found myself annoyed at some. After a few days of digesting my immediate reaction and generally just thinking about the style of Pigface, I came to a realization. The realization was that previous Pigface albums annoyed the crap out of my parents, friends, co-workers, and random passersby’s and perhaps this 7-year gap

between albums has made me forget their mode of expression? I made myself give the album a second chance and I am glad that I did. This album is full of great songs, from Chris Connely belting out about a clean up crew in “Electric Knives Club” to the KMFDM parody “KMFPF” all the way to the end track “Up and Down” which showcases the freestyle poetry of The Enigma. This album is filled with gems, they are just a bit in the rough and need to be examined a little closer. The production on this album is consistent with previous albums, keeping the dirty, raw, DIY feel to it. The songs lyrics carry the anarchist attitude that Pigface is known for, there is no holding back any punches. After all the dust settled I felt that 6 was good, falling somewhere in the middle of other Pigface albums. If you are a fan of Pigface then you should pick this up, who knows if and when another album would be made. recommended tracks : Mercenary, Fight the Power if you like you may like : Revolting Cocks, 16Volt grade : overall 7 - music 7 - lyrics 7 - recording quality 7

Haujobb - Home & Gardens 2.0

Unto Ashes - The Blood Of My Lady

reviewed by : Alex Kourelis genre : EBM Homes & Gardens 2.0 is of course a re-release of the same album Haujobb released originally in 1993 however with expanded production as a digital-only release. While I grew to really love Haujobb over the years because of the way they developed from Solutions for a Small Planet to Ninetynine to Polarity and beyond, Homes & Gardens was an album I found difficult to enjoy. To be perfectly honest it encompasses a lot of what I dislike about EBM today, so maybe that’s a sign Haujobb was truly ahead of their time with the archetype. What can be respected is how far Haujobb has come since this album and how timeless some of their tracks really are. When you count this as a starting point and consider how creatively affluent Haujobb has proven they are, only then can you count Homes & Gardens a disappointment. Let’s first consider the time this album was originally released. 1993 was the year of Front 242 on Lollapalooza, Skinny Puppy had released Last Rights the year prior, Ministry was still in their prime… and they all obviously had strong influences on Haujobb. Back then it was cool to sample Aliens and Blade Runner in every single song. Almost 16 years later and countless other electronic artists (myself included) sampling the same movies, it doesn’t hold up well no matter how great the remastering of it is. This remains the only album in which Daniel Myer sings like a member of Skinny Puppy and I’m thankful for that as well. In summary when I take a walk down memory lane with Haujobb this album isn’t it. Is it an important part of EBM history? Of course! Anybody with an interest in EBM should hear this album. Just make sure you check out the rest of Haujobb’s extensive (and much more enjoyable, in my opinion) catalog before you make your final judgment. grade : overall 5 - music 5 - lyrics 5 - recording quality 5

reviewed by : Paul Morin genre : goth, folk Unto Ashes, the nom de plume of Michael Laird and whichever assistants he chooses to enlist from album to album, is Gothic in the Victorian sense of the word; it is melodramatic, macabre, and melancholy. As the album cover depicting two candles on a wooden altar implies, it is the music of the occult and of the shadows. Sparse instrumentation, generally in the form of a finger-picked guitar with light ambience from horns, strings, or bells, gives the album an eerie, hollow quality while the lyrics, transcribed and read like poetry, often use an archaic diction that gives the songs a not-of-this-world feel and deal with such “light” subject matter as love, death, and spirituality. The arrangements and performances, though kept to a bare minimum, reflect the careful attention of a skilled craftsman, with soaring male/female vocal harmonies lifting heavenward or a stringed instrument creating the perfect frame for Laird’s prayers and spells to work their magic. Laird’s reverence for the past reveals itself beautifully in “The Tomb of Your Remains” (a song dating back to the 800s AD) and a musical version of Christina Rossetti’s poem “Who Has Seen The Wind”, but the real treasure here is a jaw-dropping rendition of Depeche Mode’s “Fly on the Windscreen”, which is re-envisioned as a chilling incantation with hammered dulcimer, unsettling vocal delivery and a snare drum marching the song towards the scaffold. Like a series of old ghost stories, not everyone will buy into the tales being told, but those who do will sit on the edge of their seat with goose bumps rising, waiting for his loved one to return from beyond the grave. Highly recommended for fans of Death in June or Dead Can Dance. recommended tracks : Fly on the Windscreen, Who Has Seen The Wind if you like you may like : Death in June, Dead Can Dance, Faith & the Muse grade : overall 8 - music 9 - lyrics 7 - recording quality 8

released by Artoffact Records/Dependent on 26 June 2009 data : re-release of 2nd album . 12 + 4tracks . 85:04 run time .

AUXILIARY august 2009

released by Projekt on 5 May 2009 data : 6th album . 13 tracks . 42:42 run time .


music reviews


Freeland - Cope

released by Marine Parade on 8 June 2009 data : 2nd full length . 8 tracks . 55:36 run time . reviewed by : Aaron Andrews genre : dance rock, breakbeat I thought Adam Freeland’s first album under the Freeland moniker, Now and Them, was one of the best albums of 2003. Everything about it just spoke to me, and I kept wondering where the follow up was. You can probably tell from those two sentences that Cope is not quite what I wanted. It’s not that it’s a bad album; it just has a hard time competing with such a high benchmark, especially without a killer must have tune like “We Want Your Soul” was for the debut. For Cope Freeland adds in a pinch of dance rock. This is a sound he’s thrown into his DJ sets for a while and with good results, so it’s not a stretch that he’s trying to repeat that stylistically on a studio album. Being co-produced by Alex Metric with appearances by; Joey Santiago, Twiggy Ramirez, Brody Dalle, Devo’s Jerry Casale, and Tommy Lee. This adds personality flair and a solid swagger all around. When Freeland is on target, his brand of dance rock is dead on and catchy as hell. The tracks “Borderline” and “Under Control” are solid and I found myself

this issue’s

Vapor Maché - People

falling for the hooks very quickly. Unlike “Rock On“ and a few others, which are just not worth a second listen. The rock elements continue throughout the album but in lesser degrees in the more dance-oriented tracks. The more electronic tracks provide Freeland’s signature sound but never manage to eclipse his previous work. The problem I found with this album isn’t that its poorly made or the songs are below average; I’d say they’re actually the opposite. It’s that the initial Freeland offering felt different, fresh and this one bases so much of its sound on other things. From Arcade Fire to M83 it feels like Adam has taken their sounds and interpreted them too literally, not being inspired for an artist album but acting more like a DJ adding someone’s song into the set. In the greater scheme of things this is still an above average release and has been rocking in my car stereo on and off for a few weeks, it is a fun album. If you’re into rock inspired dance music then this is certainly worth trying on and if some of the slower or breaks inspired pieces feel good go back and try out his first album. recommended tracks : Do You, Strange Things, Borderline, Morning Sun if you like you may like : Crystal Method, The Presets grade : overall 7 - music 6 - lyrics 6 - recording quality 8


James Blackshaw - The Glass Bead Game

released in June 2009 . FREE download at data : 1st album . 9 tracks . 43:59 run time

released by Young God Records on 26 May 2009 data : 5 tracks . 49:30 run time .

reviewed by : Alex Kourelis genre : glitch, downtempo, trip hop, IDM, experimental Spencer Putnam is an extremely talented electronic musician. Under the monachre of Vapor Maché, the release of People is a showcase of interesting pieces connecting glitchy ambience with dubstep and cinematic themes. While we have surprisingly little info regarding the artist (his site contains a very basic personal workup and links offsite to MySpace and other accounts) what we can discern is that he’s originally from Omaha, Nebraska and his influences range from Aphex Twin to Thievery Corporation. If those influences sound a bit… disconnected shall we say… you’d be surprised how close they sound to a description of the music in People. Upon a first listen, the opening track “Yano” gives a feel of this epic production space in which sound builds into a wall. By the time the twitters and breakbeats get laid down you’re already captivated by a smooth groove, which even includes a steel Jamaican-style drums by the time of the track’s completion. It’s something that certainly deserves at least one listen and if you take my recommendation you’ll probably give it more than one. Moving forward to the next track, “Quivering Joy” sees an altogether different light with keys and reverb bringing the tempo down. Further into the album these themes present themselves time and again bringing together a really cohesive and unique sound. If you’re a fan of Venetian Snares, Two Lone Swordsmen, Amon Tobin and other thematic glitch acts you’ll really enjoy this album. My only real complaint apart from the apparent lack of information available about Vapor Maché is that at times the glitch can get a bit distracting. The powerful themes present along with chord progressions are enough in themselves without a constant reminder that yes, the artist can cut audio into a billion pieces and pan them around left to right. Altogether though this was a terrific album and it is available as a free download from his site, grade : overall 8 - music 8 - recording quality 7

reviewed by : Paul Morin genre : folk Virtuoso James Blackshaw plays what can loosely be defined as folk music, though the dexterity and stamina with which he attacks a 12-string guitar and piano, giving the feel of a classical recital rather than any images of A Mighty Wind which are usually conjured by that word. It is a heady, intellectual album, meant to be studied and contemplated as much as it is to be heard, and there is an incredible depth and beauty to it. The pieces are generally dark and somber, though not bleak and opaque so much as they are striking and reflective. Strings, woodwinds, and/or light vocals (supplied by Current 93 veterans Joolie Wood and John Contreras) lay down a backdrop of harmonic changes while his fingers dance up and down the instrument in arpeggiated figures for lengthy workouts (one song, for example, clocks in at almost 20 minutes). While the droning over seemingly endless solos are reminiscent of a classical Indian raga, the repetitions of patterns recall Philip Glass, as minimally stated figures repeat themselves with increasing complexity and insistency as the songs wear on in an almost mad fever of performance. On repeated listens, subtle nuances missed the first time around pop out and announce themselves. Put simply, the music is rich, dynamic and played with an incredible passion and intensity. John Fahey, Chopin’s Preludes and Steve Hackett’s work with early Genesis also come to mind, though Blackshaw has a voice all his own, utterly unique and profound. Hand chosen and promoted for this release by self-described “fan” Michael Gira (Swans, Angels of Light), this is truly an amazing performer to keep an eye on. recommended tracks : Cross, Arc if you like you may like : John Fahey, Philip Glass, Durutti Column grade : overall 9 - music 9 - recording quality 9


august 2009 AUXILIARY

music reviews


The Field - Yesterday and Today

released by Kompakt/Anti on 26 May 2009 data : 2nd LP . 6 tracks . 60:40 run time . reviewed by : Paul Morin genre : techno, ambient, experimental The Field’s debut, From Here We Go Sublime, raised eyebrows across the board, with indie snobs and techno fans alike heralding it as an instant classic. Axel Willner’s latest offering, Yesterday and Today, shifts gears a bit, but maintains the same ingenuity and beauty that made his debut so universally accepted. Back again are the hypnotic micro-samples that resemble a CD skipping but somehow spin out patterns of sound like a kaleidoscope. Back again are the minimal, insistent, trance-inducing beats. And back again are those haunting, familiar and yet unheard of melodies that seem lifted from a deja-vu experience. But what separates this album from the previous is that the songs are a bit longer, and there is a logical progression as they flow from one to the next. The two opening tracks, slow and patient mood pieces concerned mostly with atmosphere, yield

to the first highlight on the album, “Leave It”, which moves with an energy similar to Tangerine Dream’s 80s soundtrack work or Underworld’s longer excursions, like a dark train riding off into the distance with bells and wind-chimes ringing in the breeze. From there, the album picks up steam and keeps the beats pulsing along the dance floor, finding a second highlight on “The More That I Do”, which features a sample of Elizabeth Fraser’s (Cocteau Twins) voice on infinite repeat, before sliding back into a long-winded, mellow closing number. All of this gives the album a coherence that won’t have you reaching for the next track button, and the end result floats somewhere between shoegaze, trance, ambient, and trip-hop, recalling the finer moments of each genre. Whatever you call it, it’s strikingly beautiful and easily a candidate for best album of the year. recommended tracks : Leave It, The More That I Do if you like you may like : Underworld, Gas, Cocteau Twins grade : overall 10 - music 10 - lyrics 8 - recording quality 10

Various (mixed by Armin van Buuren) - A State of Trance 2009

Black Lung - Full Spectrum Dominance

reviewed by : Alex Kourelis genre : trance Releasing the sixth installment of the wildly popular A State of Trance mix series, Armin van Buuren continues to pour fuel on the fire of his already superfluous DJ and production career. One has to begin to wonder how one man can host the most popular radio show on the planet (A State of Trance – 400 episodes strong with over 30 million listeners in 40 countries weekly), be the #1 rated DJ by DJ magazine for 2007 and 2008, tour constantly and still produce his own tracks atop it all. At 32 the Leiden, Netherlands native makes it all look easy and perennially this compilation is one of the best I’ve ever heard, on par and usually a parallel to Tiesto’s In Search of Sunrise sets. There are songs included here that I will be listening to for years. Andy Moor and Ashley Wallbridge’s “Faces” is so far my track of the year, followed closely by Josh Gabriel and Winter Kills truly haunting collaboration of “Deep Down” and Dash Berlin’s unbelievably moody “Man on the Run”. Those three tracks alone are worth the price of admission tenfold. Compiling thirty different artists together can lead to a somewhat eclectic and jumpy feeling from time to time, however this is prevalent in the mix tracks more so than individually leading me to think each mix has a theme more than a focus on mixing. There are lulls of some meandering filler that the casual trance listener might tire of but this is to be expected with just less than four and a half hours of music. While not every track is a sensational hit, this is truly a can’t-live-without-it double album. This double-album comes in the physical form of vinyl, two nonstop mix CDs (Part 1: On the Beach and Part 2: In the Club) or 30 separated tracks along with the two mixes in virtual format depending upon your purchase preference. grade : overall 10 - music 10 - recording quality 10

reviewed by : Aaron Andrews genre : grave-step, IDM, experimental Black Lung (and Snog) mastermind David Thrussell has stated that this latest release is the result of a DARPA (Defense Advanced Research Projects Agency, an agency of the US’s Department of Defense) contract. The goal of the project, “to produce a recording that reflects the ideals and reality of Vision 2020, a futuristic military strategy program that first saw the light of day in May of 2000.” Seems DARPA is a lot quieter about the project than Black Lung is, but when you’ve put together something this intriguing why not trumpet your own success? Thrussell calls this sound “grave-step”, I think it’s a good fit in quite a few places, notably on the title track where its kicked off by the kind of low frequency you’d get from a Kode 9 track. The first five tracks have a droning bed that are built on by beats running faster than dubstep but are obviously inspired by that sound. The last five tracks are more ambient/experimental, there’s low end drone but the rhythms are now more sparse. These tracks are textured and moody, especially “The World Without Us” and “The Feminine Void”. The dramatic break between the two halves is, to put it into the album concept’s terms, going from total war to the fall out; the song titles reflect just that. It seems DARPA expects a bad ending. Conceptually the two halves are excellent and need each other, but musically it’s a bit of a let down suddenly going from the pounding, abrasive beginning to the bleak and quiet end. Thrussell’s stepped up, slightly maniacal dubstep sits very well with me, I would like to hear him revisit it in the future, and his experienced hand with the quieter tracks tailored them perfectly for the desired mood. The total sum of Full Spectrum Dominance is very good. The only fault I found was that after a few days I was picking a half to listen to based on my mood or environment. recommended tracks : Full Spectrum Dominance, The Hostmen of Tyne, The Great Uncon-scious, The Wonderful Wizard Of Ounce if you like you may like : Synapscape, Brian Eno, Burial grade : overall 8 - music 8 - recording quality 8

released by Armada Music on 8 June 2009 data : 6th album . 30 tracks . 267:14 run time .

AUXILIARY august 2009

released by Tympanik on 15 June 2009 data : 11th full length . 10 tracks . 54:48 run time .

guest music review


Straftanz Who is Straftanz? Well, that is a really good question. Hailing from western Germany, Straftanz is an EBM/industrial dance group comprised of three creative individuals working under the aliases k-x, j-ing, and –jl-, with a mysterious fourth entity known only as “cyberdominated”. Straftanz describes themselves as a movement or revolution rather than a band in the traditional sense. A movement that is about the scene, dancefloor, and the people that attend the events. A movement about the idea that the scene happens in front of the stage, not on the stage. Who or what they really are is unclear. But regardless of who Straftanz is, it is clear that they know how to get the dance floor moving. Their first full release Forward Ever is packed with floor killers. If you have been out dancing in the last year, I would wager that you stomped around to one of their songs and enjoyed yourself while doing it.

Be sure to check out their sites and

Tyske Ludder - Anonymous

released by Black Rain on 5 June 2009 data : 6th album . 10 tracks . 52:02 run time .

Composition and Production Basically, with Anonymous, we are listening to classic EBM (including a nice Front 242 citation in “Bastard”) in a tight compound with a classic techno sound design. Depending on the listener, it may feel either fresh or rather boring. The beats are old-fashioned but aggressive. The arrangement is well done. The breaks are good enough, and the vocals are lacking due to their testosterone overdose. We were reminded of Gaytron’s “Männerliebe”, but that’s a good thing. Verdict This is not for everyone. Anonymous is not for people that expect what is to be expected when looking at the cover art, album title, and previous EP. It is not for people that dislike techno and know exactly why they do. This is certainly not for people that like dumb jokes about East Frisians, as they will be scared to death by the raw EBM arrangements, the brutal voice, and the overall strength. This is an album for those that claim they dislike techno music but were stored in some cultural cryotank during the 90s. To them, this album will certainly appear to be one of the freshest records of the past years. People that actually like techno music will be bored. The attitude presented is not our cup of tea but might be highly appreciated by fans of Black Rain releases or the Electronic Tremor People. We expect several tracks to work nicely on EBM dancefloors worldwide. With the decent production quality and sufficient mastering, we have no overall quality complaints. Should you buy this? We guess you already know. recommended tracks : Frya Frisenia, Bastard if you like you may like : Spetsnaz, Proceed, Feindflug, Gaytron grade : overall 3 - music 2 - lyrics 5 - recording quality 8

reviewed by : straftanz ZK genre : EBM Tyske Ludder is a band from Frisia. The inhabitants of the German part of Frisia were suppressed since we can remember. Due to the wide spread cliché of the East Friesians being rather dimwitted, making even more dimwitted jokes about them became a sport of sorts. We’ll give you an example: “Why do the people in East Frisia store even their empty bottles in the fridge? So they can offer something to those that don’t want a drink.” Even though this is not even funny, it fits quite well for this album. The album offers something to people that don’t want it. It places a nice bottle around something that doesn’t even exist. That may sound negative, but it doesn’t mean this record is bad for everyone. Let us help you decide if this piece is for you. Concept and Lyrics After the Scientific Technology EP, Ludder releases an album titled Anonymous. Some might think that this album is about anonymous Internet activism, anti-Scientology demonstrations, and the like. To keep it short: it is not, even though the cover design might imply that it is. There are no hidden hints in the lyrics. Instead, Anonymous is about old-fashioned Friesian pride, which we like as a counterstatement to the aforementioned stupid jokes. It’s about a bit of agitation and the usual dark stuff like sexual murder, murder, rape, random violence, disliking techno music, etc.

quick picks Belladonnakillz - Sorry Try Again

released by Dross:tik on 2 July 2009 genre : electronic The Canadian trio known as Belladonnakillz are back with Dross:tik records, due to the fold of Sublight Records, for their third release Sorry Try Again. The music is full of drum n bass influences, with a pleasing mix of 8-bit sounds and piano. The lyrics are tamer in comparison to older works but are still edgy, and are still a reason to call Belladonnakillz as unique. 7/10 - MK

Marsheaux - Lumineux Noir

released by Out of Line on 10 July 2009 genre : synthpop I always wanted to party with two girls from Greece, unfortunately the only way I can is to cavort to Marsheaux’s third album, Lumineux Noir. The songs are addictive, full of catchy lyrics and melodies that hook you right in. The hard part is to resist the urge to hit the back button. This album works wherever you are, be it in the club or on the couch. 8/10 - MK 23

Life Cried - Banished Psalms

released by COP Int’l./Noitekk on 5 June 2009 genre : harsh electro Life Cried’s sophomore album, Banished Psalms, takes harsh electro to a realm rarely seen in the genre, using more then just hard base and distorted screams. Each track sounds full and well mastered. Throughout the album the synth lines create an atmosphere that is dark and haunting and the aggression in the vocals makes this release like crack. 8/10 - MK august 2009 AUXILIARY

editor picks music picks by fashion editor

Meagan Breen

The Horrors Primary Colors

So what do you get when you cross mod with goth? You get The Horrors! The haunting, screeching keyboards and the droning guitars make this album a high point of my current music collection. A good indication of what sort of people make up The Horrors might be some band members’ names: Rhy “Spider” Webb (keyboards) and Coffin Joe Spurgeon (drums). I always enjoy bands that blend influences from old goth and post-punk sounds into their own musical style. recommended tracks : “Three Decades” and “Who Can Say”

The Cure Pornography

First off, I’m a huge Cure nerd. Robert Smith’s voice makes me swoon. Their hypnotic sounds have kept me enthralled through 20 plus years of music. Pornography takes my vote as the number one Cure album. Even though it may seem like a macabre, depressing choice from their discography, it has a solid emotional effect on me. The whole album is like an old friend, and every time I listen to Pornography it’s always a comfort to me. If you ever see my teased rat’s nest, you can thank Robert Smith! recommended tracks : “A Short Term Effect” and “A Strange Day”

mix tape


For this issue’s Mix Tape it’s all about cover songs! Since the dawn of time, or at least since I heard my first cover song, I’ve always asked questions and had opinions. Compiling this mix has lead to heated debate between the Auxiliary staff: Is the cover a tribute or a rip off? Is it far superior or an atrocious rendition of the original? Does a successful band even need to be covering songs? Does an unsuccessful band only cover songs to try and claim a bit of fame? Do the original artists curse off the coverers or embrace them? When you are singing the song in the shower with no music, which version are you singing? Here are some of our favorites. “Purple Haze” – The Cure [Jimi Hendrix] (Alex Kourelis) “All Along the Watchtower” – The Jimi Hendrix Experience [Bob Dylan] (Aaron Andrews) “A Forest” – The Toadies [The Cure] (Meagan Breen) “(I Can’t Get No) Satisfaction” – Devo [Rolling Stones] (Paul Morin) “Mongoloid” – Demented Are Go [Devo] (Meagan Breen) “Landslide” – Smashing Pumpkins [Fleetwood Mac] (Luke Copping) “Shut Up And Drive” – Weep [Rhianna] (Luke Copping) “Common People” – William Shatner [Pulp] (Alex Kourelis) “Like a Prayer” – Bigod 20 [Madonna] (Mike Kieffer)

Front 242 Front By Front

Listening to the Canadian radio station 102.1 The Edge on a Sunday evening was a ritual for my 14-year-old self. When Front 242’s “Headhunter” came on the radio, it was as if a new door opened up for me. Jean-Luc De Meyer’s voice combined with the unrelenting pounding snarl of the beat left me with my mouth open, literally. Front by Front is the single most influential industrial album in my collection. recommended tracks : “Im Rhythmus Bleiben”, “Felines”, and “Headhunter”

“Fade to Black” – Apoptygma Berzerk [Metallica] (Jennifer Link) “The Model” – Big Black [Kraftwerk] (Paul Morin) “Lay Lady Lay” – Ministry [Bob Dylan] (Mike Kieffer) “New Years Day” – Front Line Assembly ft. Tiffany [U2] (Aaron Andrews) “Lucretia My Reflection” – Narr! [The Sisters of Mercy] (Jennifer Link) “Blasphemous Rumors (Black Edit)” – Leaether Strip [Depeche Mode] (Mike Kieffer)

Demented Are Go! Who Put Grandma Under the Stairs (Live)

Normally, I do not like live albums, but Demented Are Go! prove they can produce a great sound inside and outside a studio. They are one of the most unique, scary, gritty, and just plain insane bands in the psychobilly scene. Who Put Grandma Under the Stairs captures the energy that the band throws at the audience, with Spark Retard’s grizzly voice and Ant the Mule Thomas’s beating of the skins. I love Demented Are Go!, enough said. recommended tracks : “One Sharp Knife”, “Holy Hack Jack”, and “Satan’s Rejects”

Cocteau Twins Head Over Heels

Elizabeth Fraser is one of my favorite female singers. Her voice is captured perfectly on Head Over Heels. This ethereal album has been the soundtrack for many evenings curled up with a book and a glass of wine. The unique sound and style of the Cocteau Twins really shines through on this album. Recommended tracks: “Sugar Hiccup” and “The Tinderbox (of a heart)”

AUXILIARY august 2009



Vino Veritas

From casual to posh, wine can add sophistication to any endeavor. When the seasons are turning, the air starts to cool and all of nature’s fiery brilliance comes to life; there’s never a better time of year to warm your heart and soul with a luscious red wine. From a romantic picnic, hike in your favorite park, quiet dinner for two, or simply pizza with your friends, there is a wine for every occasion. Of course we all have personal preferences, but red wine is versatile enough that there is one to suit any palette. I chose these particular wines with the thought of how romantic fall is. Each bottle spoke to a different part of my nostalgic nature: one very simple, one obviously romantic, one calling to my inner historian, and another that was simply reminiscent of fall. Do you feel lost roaming the aisles at the wine store? Don’t worry, most of us do! The selections below can help take the guesswork out of choosing something nice to bring home. The selections here are all in the $7 to $15 range, so there is no need to worry about breaking the bank.

by Amanda Marie Lombardo

“Good wine is a good familiar creature if it be well used.” - William Shakespeare

Cagnina Di Romagna

Root: 1

Cavalieri Reali, Italy

Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Chile The bottle is adorned with an interesting screen-printed label boasting the uniqueness of Chile’s ungrafted rootstock. This region’s vines were unharmed by a sort of plague amongst the world’s wine producers known as phylloxera due to the geographical convenience of Chile being shielded by the Andes and the Pacific Ocean. Phylloxera is an aphid type of insect that gorges on the roots of grape vines. This 19th century plague caused a large area of Europe to graft vines onto generic rootstocks. Knowing the grapes for this selection came from roots that have been in the earth for hundreds of years before I arrived added serious interest to its potential. Garnet in color, cherry nose with a very light mocha flavor that would be nicely brought out by a medium intensity Brie and sesame seed topped baguette. Follow this with a nice homemade chicken parmigiana. This vino became much easier to drink once it had ample time to aerate. I recommend finishing the bottle with some old fashioned cherry pie.

Here with a Loaf of Bread beneath the Bough, A Flask of Wine, a Book of Verse - and Thou Beside me singing in the Wilderness – And Wilderness is Paradise now. - Omar Khayyam, Persian poet An ornate Italian crest caught my eye. Decorated with a majestic unicorn, knights helmet, and an hourglass with wings drew me to this particular bottle. Upon pouring the deep vibrant purple color is enticing, matched with rich jammy aroma. The sweet raspberry flavor is abundant. This vino would be lovely slightly chilled, served with a salad garnished with berries, sunflower seeds and creamy goat cheese. Sure to delight those with an affinity for sweet red wines. I daydreamed of picnics amongst lovers while sipping this.

Ma Fleur

Gnarly Head

Pinot Noir 2008, France

Merlot 2008, California

The French are close running with the Italians for being known to have the greatest capacity for romance. Both regions’ wines reflect their affinity. The Ma Fleur Pinot Noir label is set simply on an off-white label with a pretty illustration of a thorny red rose. Upon opening, the wine has a sweet scent and an enticing cherry red hue. From first to last taste this Pinot Noir is easy on the palette. The flavor is juicy and smoky with hints of dark plum and no lingering dryness. This bottle would make a splendid, thoughtful gift for someone special. I suggest trying out your favorite sharp cheddar with it. For dinner, a nice steak, and definitely grilled veggies, or a spicy Thai dish.

“Wine is the intellectual part of a meal, meats are merely the material part.” - Alexander Dumas, French novelist What a great fall label! An illustration of some exceptionally gnarly vines surrounded by falling leaves, done all in vibrant reds, and oranges make this label very appealing. Looking like the blackest cherry dripped into my glass, the scent almost matches. Add a hint of toasted almonds to the nose and this cherry scented wine has a taste of cocoa and vanilla as the most notable flavors. Just as boasted, this wine would be great with pizza, or sweet smoky barbeque, and great friends. Or simply a night with sandwiches and movies would accompany this selection proudly.


august 2009 AUXILIARY


Turning Back theClock The idea of dressing in attire of long-lost eras is no longer reserved for Renaissance faires and stuffy historical re-enactments. Those with a penchant for bustle skirts, corsets, fedoras, powdered wigs, fake lashes, and all manner of glamour have found their niche in the modern age. This type of community, that bonds in appreciation of a foregone time, spans far beyond those belonging to the goth scene; those with an old soul longing for a home have found it. And yet, it is more than merely an aesthetic; it is a way of life, a means of expressing the rejection of societal ideals. One that dresses in clothing from another time is proclaiming, “The time in which I was borne does not suit me; and therefore I choose another.” Or, put in the modern vernacular, “I don’t want you, 21st century! I want to be classy.” This blatant rejection of modernism in favor of reviving the past has given birth to the Neo-Victorian aesthetic. Yes, this movement is about fashion, the elements of grace and dazzle that have seemingly fallen by the wayside. It is about music, borrowing not only from Victorian and Edwardian influences but also from the swing of the Jazz Era and the boldness of the blues. But more than anything, it is about self-expression. The Neo-Victorian inevitably glorifies historical elements, utilizing the most beautiful aspects and in turn, becoming it. History buffs may find this whole concept vaguely familiar. Dressing to the nines regardless of social class was practiced in Britain in the late eighteenth to the early nineteenth centuries and known as dandyism. Those that were far from wealthy acted, dressed, and spoke in an aristocratic way. This was seen as a form of protest against the division of classes. Today, it’s more about dressing with flair and sophistication, though it is clearly also a method of cultural subversion, a rejection of the technology and materialism that surrounds our society. Charles Baudelaire so eloquently defined dandyism as “one who elevates aesthetics to a living religion.” One’s style of dress was used in this case to reflect the superiority of the mind, not pertaining to social status; today, it is used to defy the constraints of modernity. And, if one chooses to escape to another era, it only makes sense to mingle with like minds and truly immerse oneself in all it has to offer. Certain forms of entertainment, such as burlesque, appeal to the same type of people that are attracted to this counterculture. In addition, it is often obvious when a band identifies with historical allegories. These bands are often expected to make appearances at period-specific events and shows. The members are generally clad in period-specific garb, exuding a kind of otherworldly elegance and grace. The music itself is characterized as adding an antiquated aural twist on modernity. Some bands incorporate orchestrations amidst industrial overtones (i.e. Emilie Autumn’s classical violin mixed with industrial beats) while others maintain an ethereal softness (i.e. Rasputina’s cello). The band or ensemble’s lyrics may allude to archaic themes or principles. The fact that acts like Emilie Autumn are now a favorite of the Hot Topic crowd reveals how appealing and accessible the aesthetic has become. It is likely that

by Alison Stark

LEFT Dances of Vice organizer Shien Lee RIGHT Victorian and 18th Century Picnic in Leipzig

not everyone grasps the depth of such a movement and may merely interpret it as a fashion statement. For those Neo-Victorian purists though, fashion is rather important, as it creates a clear, visual division between yesterday and today. The Neo-Victorian’s wardrobe is chock full of corsets and cinchers for the perfect hourglass shape, flowing skirts and dresses, garters, bloomers, petticoats, frock coats, and endless accessories including hats, jewelry, and parasols. Above all else, the wearer of these fashions aims for individuality and an aura of romanticism. There are many pieces involved in assembling every outfit, and less flesh is exposed than we’re accustomed to. To be sexy it to be subtle, not blatant and revealing. It should be said that not all Neo-Victorians wear dark makeup or consider themselves part of the goth scene, but there is certainly crossover appeal. But what fun is it to dress so stylishly without the proper place to flaunt it? In recent years, there has been an insurgence of period-specific events. Attending one of them feels like entering a time warp, imbued with refinement and kinship (or entering a Keira Knightley movie, if you prefer). One of the more popular events is Dances of Vice at The Montauk Club in Brooklyn. While Dances of Vice started with a focus on the 20s and 30s, it has evolved to incorporate Victorian, Rococo, and Jazz Age events, with sporadic monthly events featuring music, artwork, dance and other forms of entertainment. These events are wondrously lively and visually stunning; so much, in fact, that it has received extensive recognition in the press; from the New York Times to Burlesque Magazine. Each event is uniquely themed, all replicating the beauty and simplicity of another time and filled to the brim with the appropriate fashions and graceful airs of old souls. The setting, the music, the fashions, the overall atmosphere; all are necessary to simulate authenticity. There are several other regional events that recreate the past. There is the Edwardian Ball, a newborn yearly event in San Francisco and Los Angeles. The entertainment is often neo-cabaret bands, dance troupes, or acts like Cirque Berzerk, an avant-garde circus troupe. The crowd is quite large, more like a concert venue than the speakeasy environment of Dances of Vice. Other West Coast events, like the Vampires Masquerade Ball of Portland, Oregon, have a similar romantic decadence but clearly cater more to the gothic and fetish crowd. It features mostly local acts and artists as entertainment and the fashions are not limited to Victorian times. While these other events are less frequent than Dances of Vice, they hold their own individual charm and always attract a specific but large crowd. The Neo-Victorian movement and its gatherings will remain as long as people desire an escape. There will always be nostalgia for other times and places, as well as a desire to freely choose which time period to embrace as one’s home. Although we cannot physically travel across the ages, we can recapture beauty that has fallen through the cracks of time.


by Vanity Kills

To my surprise the formerly argumentative and eternally defiant Eli agreed to do as I said without as much as a single peep of protest. I smiled at my reflection in the mirror, beaming with pride over the fact that I finally grew a pair. I kissed my glass-encased counterpart and headed out the door to meet whatever destiny had in store for me. As I parted ways with the girls and made way toward my beat-up old jalopy of a car, I reveled in the aftermath of the sudden wave of euphoria that washed over me as I seized control of the Eli situation. Who needs sex, drugs, or tattoos when the greatest endorphin rush of all can be derived from telling a man what to do? And when one actually listens? Holy crap…it’s better than Christmas morning. Upon fumbling with the doors of my barely-functioning junker, I began to wonder if Justine secretly slipped me something that caused me to instantaneously excrete the wimp through the pores in my skin. Yes, she must have spiked my coffee with some mystery powder when I bent over to pick up a rogue sugar packet that had accidentally fallen onto the floor. After all I was certainly a far cry from the distressed mess who almost hit a parked car while pulling into this very spot a mere hour and a half ago. It’s amazing how the tension from my body seemed to evaporate the second I decided to channel Justine’s bitchy confidence and lay down the law. Suddenly I began entertaining the thought of bossing men around for a living. Since exactly fourteen days from now I shall be freed from the shackles of corporate slavery, it would lie in my best interest to seek Justine out at the dungeon and inquire about employment opportunities offered therein. Achhooooo! I think I just had an allergic reaction to contemplating work outside of normal business hours! Thus a return to your regularly scheduled one-track-mindedMr.Erickson-centric programming was in order. Because like any girl, my main thrill in life consists of driving myself crazy over the male species. Everything else is secondary. Meanwhile finding something to divert my attention from the massive freeway traffic jam that I just merged into became my number one priority. I traded my Cure CD for Dead Can Dance and howled along to “The Ubiquitous Mr. Lovegrove”. Boy am I glad that no one I know could see or hear me now. Forty minutes later I arrive at Lord of the Wings well beyond the socially accepted timeframe of fashionable lateness. Whatever. It’s not like it was a “date”. Just two former mortal enemies playing catch up over plates of charred bird flesh and adult beverages. Yeah, Kimmy, whatever makes you sleep at night. Still riding the confidence train, I strutted in like I owned the place. I left no room for anxiety. What could possibly go wrong? I certainly had no fear of the universally dreaded “awkward silence”. How could we run out of conversation topics in a restaurant whose theme was half J.R.R Tolkien’s Middle Earth, half 70s blaxploitation film? Not with wait staff attired to resemble the love child of Gandalf the Grey and Flavor Flav complete with wizard robes and faux gold grills. The menu which featured such delicacies as “Shaft’s Sizzlin’ Silmarillion Shrimp” and “Chicken Leg-O-Las” was a seemingly endless goldmine of opportunity to strike up some inane chatter. If you couldn’t muster up SOMETHING

to talk about at “Lorda Waaaangs”(as us locals called it) your dining companion is most likely socially retarded and has the personality of a plate. Additionally, I took precautions to eliminate any potential sexual predator funny business by arranging our meeting in a very public place. This ruled out the possibility of getting roofied, violated, and left in a ditch. And if he still showed signs of being the same self-absorbed tool I met seven years ago, I’d unapologetically throw my greasy chicken bones in his lap and jump ship at once. I covered all my bases. NOTHING COULD POSSIBLY GO WRONG! Upon entering the premises a young lady decked out in a faux Afro wig and elf ears informed me that my party was already seated and subsequently led me to our table. Damn it! This is so unfair! Eli managed to truly outdo himself in the hotness department. Tall, longhaired, and rivet shall eternally be the Holy Trinity of Sexiness in my eyes. Color me smitten. He greeted me with a hug as if we were lifelong BFFs. I was officially teleported into Bizarro World, because apparently everything I had come to assume about reality was wrong. Not only that, but my heart rate was rising at an alarming speed! Why was the close proximity of someone whose favorite pastime once included Photoshopping my head onto photos of crackwhores making me swoon? Eli further ruined my best-laid plans to remain calm and collected by shattering all my preconceived notions of what I expected in terms of behavior. Acting like a true valedictorian of Douchebag Reform School, the new and improved Eli proved himself to be polite, respectful, and actually attentive to the words that were coming out of my mouth. He inquired about my career, my friends, and my thoughts on Hollywood’s upcoming Hellraiser remake. Unlike Shayne who seemed to automatically tune me out every time I spoke. Every single insult Eli ever flung in my general direction was permanently erased from my brain’s database. Recollections of skirmishes past faded into obscurity. You know you’re blinded by pheromones when a waiter suddenly materializes at your table ready to take your order and you realize that you hadn’t even given food any thought. Unable to deal with the incoming flood of emotions, I was in dire need of booze instead. Beer wasn’t gonna cut it, so I opted for the Mackdaddy of Mordor Martini, a tasty concoction of lychee juice and vodka served in a pimp’s chalice. Inebriation claimed its victim as Eli casually asked if I’d like to accompany him to Sanctum this Friday. I nodded in agreement. Shayne wouldn’t come home from work until 2:00 AM. Pass out right after. He’d never know. NOTHING COULD POSSIBLY GO WRONG! Where is the headstrong domineering Kimmy I seemingly transformed into at 6:15 PM this afternoon? That’s right! In place where Kimmy once sat lied a puddle of lovestruck goo stuck to the seat. So blissfully ignorant of the forthcoming self inflicted maelstrom of drama she just summoned into existence.

Auxiliary Magazine Presents: APNEA photographer Steve Prue hair stylist Kristin Jackson model and makeup Apnea

the PinUp

Auxiliary’s playful take on the sexy centerfold pin up. Flip the page, cut out, and tac on your wall!

name : Amanda nickname : Apnea birthday : July 26, 1985 birthplace : Houston, TX eye color : blue-green hair color : brunette turn-ons : big pretty eyes, ambition, and someone who can make me laugh favorite movie : Lady and the Tramp favorite book : Illusions by Richard Bach favorite color : purple favorite cocktail : cherry coke favorite tattoo : was done at Ghost Town in old Ellicott City, Maryland favorite indoor activity : reading favorite outdoor activity : watching the clouds during the day or the stars at night favorite article of clothing : my panda shirt from Creep Street how did you get into modeling? : I got into it because I loved doing it, so I did it! I don’t know when people started noticing it, but eventually they did.

Ego Assassin latex shrug by Ego Assassin with vintage petticoats august 2009 AUXILIARY


Ego Assassin

by Sally Reardon

the Flapper Frippery edition Here at Auxiliary Magazine, we believe in fashion ingenuity. The best outfits are a combination of imagination and personal style, the result of which is nothing less than fantastical. We also believe that good fashion doesn’t need to cost a lot of money and can result from a combination of adventurous sale shopping, vintage purchases, and maybe even a little stitching, glue, and beading. DIY can be the perfect solution for a variety of tastes; for those on a limited budget, a little money spent on special materials can become a show-stopping ensemble that would otherwise be financially out of reach. For the meticulous, there is the chance to play the designer, exercising complete control over color, material, and embellishments. Banish your clichés of DIY because hand-made doesn’t have to look homemade. In this article, we’ll create an original spin on the flapper-inspired headbands so popular this season. The whole project takes about 15 minutes to craft and the materials can be found for under $10. Best of all, the end result looks a lot more expensive than your thrifty material splurge!


Two stars. Some experience hand-sewing or operating a sewing machine is needed. Otherwise, all you need is glue and some time. This headband is reminiscent of those worn by flapper beauties like Louise Brooks.


l 1 yard of the trim of your choice, approx 3/4”- 2” wide. We used silver vintagestyle trim, $2.50/yard at YKK of New York City. Similar trims can be found at JoAnns or your local fabric/trim shop. l 1 yard of elastic to match your trim. Black or white will do if you can’t find colors. Just make sure it won’t scratch the underside of your neck. Ours was $1/yard. l 1 feather pad. A feather pad has a front with feathers on it and a flat fabric pad on the back for easy gluing and mounting. Ours was $1.50, most craft stores will carry feather pads. If you’re going to “splurge” or spend some time looking around for any of these materials, look around for a more expensive-looking feather pad, it will make a big difference in the end result. l 1 millinery-quality flower. Finding a pretty flower made of high-quality materials can be a challenge but also a lot of fun. Craft stores will carry these, but the end effect may be less than pretty. You can try buying a single silk flower from a local florist or ebay as well. For a sequin flower like the one shown here, consider scouring thrift stores for the over-the-top “Dynasty” style 80s dresses that often incorporate sequin flowers in the decorations. You can remove the sequin flowers and give them a new, more tasteful life as a hair accessory. Finally, you can try your hand at ribbon roses (instructions can be found free online). Ours was purchased in the NYC garment district on sale for $4. l 1 barrette. Ours was $3 for a pack of 25 at Michaels craft store. l Scissors. l Glue. Any kind will do, we used superglue. l Tape measure. l Needle and thread or sewing machine (optional)

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Measure your head. Wrap the tape measure around your head wherever you plan to wear your headband. A suggestion: measure across the top of your head and behind your ears and all the way around the back of your head (like a headband, but measure the underside of your head too). The finished shot in this article shows the second style suggestion (if Louise Brooks had tucked her elastic in!).


BE CALCULATING. Decide how much of your trim you want to use versus how much elastic. CALCULATE TRIM NEEDED: EXAMPLE: My head is 22”. Distance around the top of my head to either ear = 14” + 1/2” for a seam allowance x 2 = 1” So 14” + 1” = 15”. Use 15” of your TRIM. CALCULATE ELASTIC NEEDED: EXAMPLE: Total head measurement (22”) – amount used for trim (14”) = 8” Cut 8” off ELASTIC. You do not need to add extra for seam allowances. This gives the elastic a little extra tightness so it sits snugly on your head… don’t worry, it won’t be uncomfortable! STYLE NOTE: We had extra trim, so we made two identical bands. You can make one or two, it’s up to you! If you bought wider trim you may want to stick with one.


SEW your bands together. Each band should have a 1/2” seam allowance on either end. Sew back and forth several times to secure, especially if your trim is liable to fray! You can trim the ends later if they stick out, just don’t cut off too much….leave at least 1/2” at each seam for security.


GLUE your barrette on the back of your feather pad. Set aside and let dry according to glue instructions. We left ours alone for a half an hour.


PIN your flower onto the feather pad. If yours didn’t come with a pin in it you can just GLUE it to the front or SEW it on by hand. Do not attempt to sew your flower on with the machine, it will end in disaster!


ASSEMBLE AND STYLE your beautiful creation. There are many ways to wear what you’ve made! You can wear both headbands by themselves or together. You can clip the feather/flower using the barrette to one or both headbands and wear flapper style. You can even wear the feather/flower by itself as an eye-catching accent to a fancy hairdo! Now, go paint the town red!


august 2009 AUXILIARY

Lip Service

going strong since 1987! Auxiliary Magazine’s Lip Service fashion show features current 2009 styles to rare “holy grails” by Lizz Schumer

Lip Service has been providing a variety of alternative fashions to the masses for over twenty years. In the wake of a marketing and branding rebirth and hot on the heels of a Buffalo, NY fashion show hosted by Auxiliary Magazine, Lip Service has come a long way and is still going strong. The now-iconic brand started as an alternative rock n roll clothing company in 1985 when creator Drew Bernstein (aka Lippy) convinced Brian Tucker of Live Nude to teach him how to screen print t-shirts. “I was hanging around Ape Leather a lot and got so bored that I asked if I could do something,” he said of his early start as a clothing maker and designer. A few pyramid studs later, he was laying the foundation for what would soon become a worldwide phenomenon. After selling belts for Ape Leather and other lines like Marche Noir and Nana Shoes, Bernstein wanted to do his own thing. “I had lots of crazy ideas, so one day I asked a buyer if they would buy leggings with prints on them. I used my mom’s copy machine to create a skull and dagger graphic and repeated the pattern to make a huge screen print. I took apart a pair of leggings and found out how much fabric I would need to make a pair, and bought enough to make about 200 pairs. The leggings sold like hot cakes out of stores on Melrose like Retail Slut and Na Na and up the coast to San Francisco.”

From there, the brand really started to take off. In 1985, Lip Service took a cue from London designers and came out with a black shiny vinyl motorcycle jacket, cutting the first designs in Bernstein’s dad’s garage. After coming out with the much-anticipated “Stretch Fuck’n Jeans”, the brand moved out of the garage into a small warehouse, eventually opening several retail stores on Melrose and Hollywood Boulevard. The brand’s really big break came when Izzy from Guns N’ Roses started wearing Lip Service exclusives. “Before GNR hit the big time, Izzy would come down to the warehouse and scrounge around for free stuff,” said Bernstein. “One day, he found a jacket with ‘War?’ printed all over it in a box of leftovers. He gave it to Axl, whose picture appeared everywhere in that jacket.” Before long, the brand had exploded worldwide. Today, over two decades after its inception, Lip Service is going stronger than ever with a vibrant webzine, their brand for sale in boutiques across the globe, an online web store, and distribution to the chain stores like Hot Topic and Urban Outfitters. Recently, Auxiliary Magazine hosted a Lip Service fashion show organized by Auxiliary’s Jennifer Link and Vanity Kills, a writer for both Auxiliary and Lip Service’s

Auxiliary Magazine’s Lip Service fashion show Gunmetal Polly Vinylos Senior Prom Dress

Lip Service’s Steam Machine line

rare Lip Service “holy grail”

FASHI ON webzine, as well as an avid “lippy addict”. The show featured models from the Lip Service LiveJournal community Lippy Addicts and included designs from their spring and summer collections as well as rare Lip Service pieces from past collections, known as “holy grails” to Lippy devotees.

hibit an encyclopedic amount of knowledge on all things Lippy. It dawned on me that vintage Lippy must be celebrated and worn with pride alongside 2009’s offerings. I aimed to create a primarily fan-based fashion show filled with models who already have a few cherished Lippy pieces of their own.”

“I drew a metric ton of inspiration from the ladies of LiveJournal’s Lippy Addicts,” said organizer Vanity Kills in a Lip Service webzine post. “A brainchild of the lovely Evil Kelly Chan, the close-knit community is primarily populated by ladies who ex-

The fashion show did not lack for material, considering that Lip Service releases close to 500 new styles every year as well as carry forward classic styles.

OPPOSITE PAGE photograher : Clark Dever makeup artists : Jessica Jean and Jodie McGuire THIS PAGE Trash N Dagger Trash Talk Tank Dress model : Dori Bot photographer : Jennifer Link makeup artist : Rachel Mazurek

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“Our clients buy Lip Service because they know what they’re going to get and it’s a brand they wear with pride. We have styles that are both flashy and practical without stifling your wild side,” said Mickey Finn, a sales and marketing representative from Lip Service. Finn continued, “Covering so many genres and frequently working with different designers has kept the brand fresh. We’re always alternative and consistent in our approach to ‘dare to be different’ DIY fashion.” Whether you rock the holy grail styles from back in the day and are interested in add-

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ing a few key pieces to update your look, or want to dip into Lippy for the very first time, Lip Service has a little something for every fashion freak who wants to express themselves through fashion and a brand with a trusted track record. As Bernstein puts it, “Even though our styles nowadays run the gamut from the vinyl and strapped down Fetish Classics to the soft and worn-in Blacklist, it’s still signature Lip Service and always will be.”

Patent Vinyl and Vegi Leather Classics Chicks Collar Shirt with Tie in Black and Gunmetal with Really Fancy Pants Suspender Short in Gunmetal model : Machine Sex photographer : Luke Copping makeup artist : Rachel Mazurek


Steam Machine Steam This, Punk! Pencil Skirt and Clockwork Heart L/S Top model : Jenn Lee photographer : Luke Copping makeup artist : Rachel Mazurek

august 2009 AUXILIARY



The Little Black Dress Coco Chanel originally gave birth to the concept of “the little black dress” in the 1920s. The little black dress was to be a simple yet stylish piece and has now become essential to a women’s wardrobe. Every woman needs the perfect little black dress. This dress is something you can grab out of your closet and wear with confidence, knowing it fits great. The perfect little black dress should show off your best assets and be fun! It can be worn on a day trip to the market or to a night at the club, with just a switch up of accessories and attitude!


The Tote Bag in Calaveras print by Dungaree Dolly is a fun way to add a touch of color to this all black dress. Every girl needs a fun bag in a sea of black clothing!

styled and written by Meagan Breen


Spider Barrettes by Trash Queen Clothing are creepy and cute. What more does a gal need? These clips give a playful nod to gothic horror, but ooze kitsch as the spiders are paired with mini black bows. Cleaver Necklace by Spragwerks tied together with the spider barrettes will get you noticed, or at least keep those on-lookers away. This replica cleaver pendant is handmade with quality metal and so shiny you can see your reflection!


The Dead Porcelain dress by Sweet Depression is darling with its ruffled collar and buckled belt. For a daytime look, this dress has a comfy and cutesy style.

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Zebra flats by Steve Madden have a purple band around the top of the shoe that really makes the shoes pop! The shoes bring the colors of the Calaveras tote and the spider barrettes together to create a comfortable yet fashionable day look. Patterned flats are a great way to be playful with your attire without stepping too far out of comfort zones. 38



A vintage black cage veil hat, with velvet leaf details, compliments the dress’s Old Hollywood mystique.


Gold bat earrings by Betsey Johnson are an adorably perfect mix of glam and creepy! The jewel-eyed bats wear pink bow ties, a little twist on the traditional gothy bat piece of jewelry. Gold and pearl-layered necklace by Betsey Johnson has the essential Hollywood glamour elements; a heeled shoe pendant, pearls, hearts, bows, and more pearls! This necklace paired with the gold bat earrings showcase some of Betsey Johnson’s great kitschy designs.


Beaded clutch from Target is a beautiful off-white with a gold clasp. It’s a simple and elegant addition to your evening look. The gold detailing ties in the gold earrings and necklace.


The Dead Porcelain dress by Sweet Depression is a wonderful dress for an evening look. The poof sleeves and tulle underlay give the dress an Old Hollywood starlet impression.


Bettie Page Love Pump by Draven are peep-toe Mary Janes inspired by Bettie Page herself. Polka dotted and precious, these shoes look fabulous with the beaded handbag. This traditional style shoe is a smash to dance the night away!


august 2009 AUXILIARY

photographer Jennifer Link hair stylist April Grigajtis

A Black Tie Affair

models SharonTK and Dina de Sade

The for mal side of latex. Elegant dresses, striking black and white, and hints at

menswear showcase four designers that

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are taking latex in new directions.

THIS PAGE Ego Assassin latex garter corset, Triumph long-line tank top, Overboob tops, and leggings. OPPOSITE PAGE Black and white latex dresses by Fierce Couture. august 2009 AUXILIARY

AUXILIARY august 2009

THIS PAGE Latex mini top hat, skirt, top, and gown by Vex.

THIS PAGE Soliloquy by Renee Masoomian patterned latex dress and merrywidow under clear snap-up latex dresses.

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The Bare Accessories Girly with an architectural flair, these fall shoes and handbags will dress up any outfit. Even the one you're not wearing.

photographer Ella Manor fashion stylist Numi Prasarn makeup artist and manicurist Nadja Nebas hair stylist Tetsuya Yokozuka model Megan M. Black set provided by A&G Merch lingerie provided by La Petite Coquette AUXILIARY august 2009

LINGERIE Peach lace bra by Timpa and high-waisted briefsuspender belt by La Perla. OPPOSITE PAGE Green Flick Flack pump by Irregular Choice and Nautilus pocketbook by Steampunk Trunk. THIS PAGE Tricolor wedge by Michael Antonio and burgandy clutch by Fiaz Co. august 2009 AUXILIARY

AUXILIARY august 2009

OPPOSITE PAGE Pink and beige platform pump by Jeffrey Campbell and fuschia Madison Ave clutch by Es_oneofone. THIS PAGE Black diamond cut wedge by Miss L-Fire and gwenyth collection clutch by Fiaz Co.

august 2009 AUXILIARY

AUXILIARY august 2009

THIS PAGE Heatherette Super Vixen buckle boot by Irregular Choice. OPPOSITE PAGE Black diamond cut wedge by Miss L-Fire and gold bubble purse by Mercura NYC.

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THIS PAGE Sneak By platform by Luichiny and studded Soho clutch by Es_oneofone. OPPOSITE PAGE Tease red and blue maryjane by Irregular Choice and yellow embroidered clutch by Es_oneofone. AUXILIARY august 2009

Buckle down for fall with plaids that are a little bit preppy, a little bit punk, but a solid A+ in class.

photographer Jennifer Link fashion stylist Meagan Breen

m a k e u p a r t i s t E r i c a B r o w nTHIS - B i zPAGE zle

PVC Victorian Shrug and Corset Belt both by Artifice Clothing and h a i r s t y lpurple i s t Awith p r black i l Glace r i gskirt a j t by is Clothing. m o d e l s N a t a l i a A n n a a n d B r iSerious ttany Kihl

assistant makeup artist Keyana Rivers

august 2009 AUXILIARY june 2009

AUXILIARY april 2009

THIS PAGE Kitchen Orange Greaser jacket in blackPAGE with OPPOSITE Futurstate Bitter mini skirt in silver and Device Design Company long black zip-up jacket The LAStiletto MelrosePunxxster Fluevog boot black over Switchblade PlaidinSchool caviar with Company gold heel Vest in blue plaid and Device Design OPPOSITE PAGE cowl neck top with Pok A Dot Pretty waist belt Chi is wearing Axxion long sleeve top by short by Switchblade Stiletto. Futurstate, Kitchen Orange Makeout in THISpants PAGE purple with Garter Pocket Platikwith Wrap, and Device Design Company plaidbyjacket Itoshii Melrose bootPretty in black caviar topThe by LA Gloomth andFluevog Pok A Dot waist belt with gold heel - Marie is wearing Miyuki jacket short by Switchblade Stiletto. by Futurstate and silver Kitchen Orange Makeout pants with Fluevog Lambchop mini boots august 2009 AUXILIARY

AUXILIARY august april 2009 2009


THIS PAGE Gloomth Rose Corset Jacket with Switchblade Stiletto Fearless Femes Buckled Tube Dress and black tie with plaid bows by Gloomth. OPPOSITE PAGE Switchblade Stiletto Punxxster Plaid School Blouse in white under a black cardigan sweater with Device Design Company plaid skirt.

THIS PAGE THIS PAGE Siren’s Mercy Steel Boned Corset by Switchblade Stilettowith Vicious Punk THIS PAGE Heavy Red and purple black lace white zebra print Kitchen Jitney jacket in skirt byBlazer SeriousinOrange Clothing. Mini topwith hat Rockin Bones Poofy Tutu in boots Lime purple with patent with antique detail byTransmuter Kyla Creations. august april june 2009 AUXILIARY

AUXILIARY august 2009

THIS PAGE Switchblade Stiletto Punxxster Plaid School Blouse in black with Switchblade Stiletto Punxxster Plaid School Vest in blue plaid and black skirt by Device Design Company.

THIS PAGE Gloomth Itoshii black top and Punxxster Plaid Buckle Waist Skirt in blue plaid by Switchblade Stiletto with Gloomth Zippered Denim Jacket.

august 2009 AUXILIARY

AUXILIARY august 2009

THIS PAGE Switchblade Stiletto Punxxster Plaid School Blouse in white under a short sleeve black sweater with Switchblade Stiletto Punxxster Plaid Pleated School Skirt in blue plaid. Switchblade Stiletto Punxxster Plaid Lolita Bondage Dress in blue plaid under a short sleeve black sweater.

where to buy A&G Merch


Mercura NYC

Sweet Depression

Betsey Johnson

Hey Sailor!

Michael Antonio

Switchblade Stiletto

Device Design Company

The Indra Millinery

Misfit Chic


Dungaree Dolly

Irregular Choice

Miss L-Fire

Topsy Turvey Design


Jeffrey Campbell

Novenlux Chapeaux

Totus Mel

Ego Assassin

La Pearla

Soliloquy by Renee Masoomian

Trash Queen Clothing


La Petite Coquette



Fiaz Co.

Londons Gate

Steampunk Trunk

Fierce Couture


Steve Madden

advertise in auxiliary magazine email for more details next issue october 2009

Auxiliary Magazine - August 09