India guide 1

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Jammu æ Sights 1 Aquarium................................................ D3 2 Bahu Fort................................................ D3 Dogra Art Gallery............................ (see 5) 3 Gupawala Mandir....................................C1 4 Har-ki-Paori Mandir............................... D3 5 Mubarak Mandi.......................................C1 6 Raghunath Mandir................................. B2 7 Ranbireshwar Mandir.............................B1 ÿ Sleeping 8 Fortune Riviera ...................................... A3 9 Green View Hotel................................... A3 10 Hotel Samrat.......................................... A3 ú Eating 11 City Square Mall .................................... A3 12 Dhabas ................................................... A3

Fortune Riviera HOTEL $$ (%2561415; www.fortunehotels.in; Gulab Singh Marg; s/d from ₹4195/4410; aiW) Jammu’s

most stylish address includes a glass elevator in the four-story atrium, Empire State bedposts and slight hints of oriental minimalism in the flower arrangements.

Wazwan..........................................(see 16) ü Drinking 14 Café Coffee Day .....................................B2 þ Shopping J&K Government Arts Emporium (see 16) 15 Jay Kay Bookhouse................................B2 Information 16 J&K Tourism...........................................B2 Transport 17 Matador 108 Terminus ..........................D3 18 Private Buses & Shared Jeeps..............A3 19 Public Bus Station..................................A3

Green View Hotel GUESTHOUSE $ (%2573906; 69 Chand Nagar; s from ₹150, d ₹300-500; a) This budget standby is a little

quieter, friendlier and more accustomed to foreigners than most Vinaik Bazaar options. Certainly the cheap singles are miserable coffin-boxes but most doubles come with cold-shower bathroom, air-cooler and even windows. For ₹500 there’s AC and new tiling. It’s hidden at the end of a dead-end side lane east of Jewel Chowk.

Vaishnavi Dham PILGRIM HOSTEL $ (%2473275; www.maavaishnodevi.org; Railway Rd; dm/d ₹60/650; a) Although primarily for

yatri, this large, modern hostel accepts nonpilgrims out of season. It’s immediately on the right as you leave the train station’s large forecourt square.

Hari Niwas Palace Hotel HERITAGE HOTEL $$ (%2543303; www.hariniwaspalace.com; s/d from ₹2860/3320, deluxe ₹3850/4950; as) With

5 Eating & Drinking

Hotel Samrat HOTEL $$ (%2547402; s/d from ₹1650/1760; ai) The

Between Jewel Chowk and Vinaik Bazaar are several inexpensive dhabas (snack bars), a fast-food place, wine shops and two bars. City Square Mall has Domino’s Pizza and four other air-conditioned restaurants. Residency Rd has a wide range of options from cheap fish barbecues (near Raghunath Mandir) to AC vegetarian restaurants to ever-reliable Café Coffee Day opposite KC Plaza.

maharaja connections and elements of princely style, this all-white 20th-century palace has a fine cliff-top setting beside the Amar Mahal Palace. Deluxe rooms are professionally appointed but cheaper ‘Palace Mews’ units are below ground level and overall upkeep is a little flawed given the prices. Indoor pool.

neatest of numerous options as you leave the bus station, Samrat’s best rooms (single/ double ₹2090/2200) are brand new with high ceilings, lashings of marble and Chagall prints on wooden back-boards.

Wazwan KASHMIRI $$ (%2579554; Residency Rd; veg/non-veg mains ₹110/210; h12.30-4pm & 7-10pm) Filigree

lamps, wood panelling and draped crewel

K ASHMIR VALLE Y E AT I N G & JEDAAT RMI N JAMMU & THE K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) IM NKU GI N&G D R I N K I N G

peak yatra (pilgrimage) periods (early summer, early October). Basic budget options are plentiful around Vinaik Bazaar (a block southeast of the bus station) but names like Hotel Touch Wood give a premonition of their chancy nature. If booking Jammu accommodation through online discounters be aware that many hotels offered are 45km away in Katra.

13 Falak ........................................................B2


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