India guide 1

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Another uberhip hangout, suffused in minimalist chic, with lots of good, smoked(!) food on the menu. Try the smoked melon mojitos, and leave room for the divine chocolate soufflé. On Friday and Saturday nights there’s a DJ playing everything from ’80s to Bhangra.

DELHI

Not Just Parathas NORTH INDIAN $$ (Map p78; 84 M-Block; dishes ₹80-300; hnoonmidnight) Yes, this cheery place offers not just

parathas but, with 120 types on the menu, you’ve gotta go for the speciality, be they Tawa-fried or roasted tandoori and stuffed with palak (spinach), chicken tikka or aloo gobi (potato and cauliflower), to name a few. DEFENCE COLONY & FRIENDS COLONY

Accent oIndian (Map p78; %26925151;

INDIAN $$$

Manor Hotel, 77 Friends Colony; tasting menu veg/nonveg ₹1875/1975) Overlooking the hotel veranda

and lush lawns, this is a remarkable restaurant with inspired creative Indian cuisine. Expect starters such as baked paneer pinwheel and indian coriander pesto, and main dishes such as masala wild mushrooms and water chestnut paper-roast dosai.

Swagath SOUTH INDIAN $$$ (Map p78; Defence Colony Market; mains ₹235-645; h11am-midnight; mLajpat Nagar) Supremely

scrumptious Indian fare with a focus on Mangalorean and Chettinad cuisine (especially seafood), this smart six-floor restaurant swarms with well-heeled locals, here for the excellent dhal-e-Swagath (lentil curry), delicious surmai rawas (fish), butter pepper garlic, butter chicken and similarly satiating dishes. SAKET & MEHRAULI

Olive MEDITERRANEAN $$$ (Map p78; %29574443; One Style Mile, Mehrauli; tasting lunch menu from ₹495, dinner mains from ₹575; hnoon-12pm; mQutab Minar) Uberchic,

the original Olive has reopened, much to the delight of the Delhi in-crowd. The haveli setting, decorated in rustic beach-house chic, with its mismatched antiques, is unlike anywhere else in Delhi. As well as creative Mediterranean dishes, the menu includes pasta and pizzas – as tasty as the clientele.

6

Drinking

Whether it’s cappuccino and pastries for breakfast, or beer and kebabs for supper, Delhi’s cool cafes and buzzing bars deliver. Most Delhi bars double up as both restaurants and nightclubs. The scene might not be huge, but as the sun goes down, the party

starts, particularly from Wednesday to Saturday night. A smart-casual dress code (no shorts, vests or flip-flops) applies at most places. The fancier bars are overflowing with domestic and foreign booze, but taxes can pack a nasty punch (alcoholic 20%, nonalcoholic 12.5%); taxes aren’t included here unless stated. Most bars have two-for-one happy hours from around noon till 8pm or on certain days. NEW DELHI & AROUND Latitude CAFE (Map p68; Khan Market; h11.30am-10.30pm; mKhan Market) Above the exclusively priced

Good Earth homewares store, this is Khan Market’s prettiest cafe, with sparkly chandeliers and handpainted walls. It’s a good place for a chi-chi light lunch and to pretend you’re not in Delhi.

Café Turtle CAFE Greater Kailash Part I (Map p78; N-Block); Khan Market (Map p68; 2nd fl, Full Circle Bookstore; h9.30am-9.30pm; mKhan Market) This book-

ish, boho cafe ticks all the boxes when you’re in the mood for coffee and gateau (the ‘gooey chocolate cake’ is a triumph). Big Chill CAFE (Map p68; Khan Market; hnoon-11.30pm; mKhan Market) Khan Market has two film-poster-

lined branches of BC, packed with chattering, well-manicured, wholesome folk. The menu is a telephone directory of continental, Indian and other dishes.

Café Oz CAFE (Map p68; Khan Market; h9am-midnight; mKhan Market) A busy Australian cafe, this has

reasonable food and Delhi’s best coffee, including flat whites.

Indian Coffee House CAFE (Map p72; Mohan Singh Place; h9am-9pm; mRajiv Chowk) Stuck-in-time Indian Coffee House

is down at heel, but serves up basic, cheap snacks and south Indian coffee (₹13!) and has a 2nd-floor terrace. PAHARGANJ

The following are on Map p76, and close to Metro RK Ashram. Open Hand Cafe CAFE (Main Bazaar; h8am-10pm; mRK Ashram Marg)

Bringing a touch of class to Paharganj, this South African-owned, two-level cafe has a chic, arty feel, sculptural chairs, good coffee and yummy cheesecake.


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