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ISSUE ONE 2016 UN EDITION 2016
Reviving Africa’s textile industry Redonner vie a l'industrie textile en Afrique
Spotlight on Nigeria Highlights from IDEA 2016 Domestic textile machinery orders see growth Pleins feux sur le Nigeria Les faits saillants d'IDEX Les commandes pour l'équipement textile domestique sont à la hausse
ITM 2016 welcomes local and foreign visitors
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CONTENTS Developments
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News, updates and market reports
Développements
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Infos, nouveautés et dossiers du marché
Spotlight on Nigeria
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The move to develop garment exports
Pleins feux sur le Nigeria
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Le mouvement vers le développement d’exports de vetements
The growth of Rwanda’s textile industry
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China backs Rwanda in textile investment plans
La croissance de l’industrie du textile au Rwanda 7 La Chine soutient le Rwanda avec ses projets d’investissement dans le secteur du textile
Eritrea’s cotton sector set for growth
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Garments to be made from 100 per cent Eritrean cotton
Le secteur du coton en Érythrée au point de croissance
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Les vetements seront fabriqués en coton a 100% d’origine érythréenne
Textile machinery orders on the rise
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The Italian market has seen a recovery in orders
Les commandes pour l’équipement textile sont à la hausse 18 Le marché intérieur a vu une reprise de commandes
Africa’s sourcing potential
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Boosting African trade and economy under AGOA
Le potentiel de l’approvisionnement de l’Afrique 22 La stimulation du commerce et l’économie africain avec LAGOA
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AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE ONE 2016
Serving the world of business
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NEWS IN BRIEF Nigeria enters US$56mn deal with Chinese investor
NIGERIA’S KWARA STATE government said it had signed a US$56mn investment deal with a Chinese investor for the construction of a textile industrial park in the state. Governor Abdulfatah Ahmed signed the deal during a trip to East China. The new agreement which will see the Kwara Chitex Industrial Park being built was signed between Governor Ahmed and Shi Zengchao, the managing director of Ningbo Jinsheng Star Import and Export Company at the 18th China Shejand Investment and Trade Symposium in Ningbo, East China. The new investment deal will see US$3.7bn investments in 31 projectis where US$1.4bn would be for the Kwara Chitex Industrial Park. "We are looking for investors, especially in the area of manufacturing. We have a youthful population, which shows there is a strong workforce that can support industrialisation. There are opportunities in textiles, agriculture, mining and other areas. The potentials are huge," he said.
ITM 2016 attracts huge turnout
THE FAIR OFFERED international and local exhibitors a chance to present their new technologies. According to event organisers, a great volume of sales and business contacts have been made at the show. The exhibition, organised by Tüyap Fairs and Exhibitions Organization Inc & Teknik Fairs Ltd partnership with the Cooperation of TEMSAD (Turkish Textile & Machinery Industrialists Association), showcased a range of innovations and technologies. The exhibition, organised by Tüyap Fairs and Exhibitions Organization Inc & Teknik Fairs Ltd partnership with the Cooperation of TEMSAD (Turkish Textile & Machinery Industrialists Association), exhibited a range of innovations and technologies. These include yarns, knitting, weaving, dyeing, printing, finishing and hosiery machines, sub-industries and chemicals. More than 1,000 textile technology producers presented their latest models in operation.
Jordan’s exports of garments above US$1.4bn
JORDAN'S EXPORTS OF garments grew by 8.7 per cent in 2015 to more than US$1.4bn despite the closure of traditional markets of Jordanian exports following regional upheaval. The US market totalled 90 per cent of the Kingdom's garments' exports, a statement by the Jordan Chamber of Industry recently revealed. The total value of the Kingdom's garments exports amounted to US$1.4bn. Adel Abu Tawileh of the Jordan Chamber of Industry said investments in the garments manufacture sector are set to rise if member countries of the Jordanian-European partnership agreement simplify rules of origin. Abu Tawileh noted that there are 1,300 garment production facilities in the Kingdom,
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TEXTILE CALENDAR / CALENDRIER July 5-6 View Premium Selection
Munich, Germany
www.viewmunich.com
12-14 hometextiles sourcing New York City
New York, USA
www.hometextilessourcing.com
12-14 East Africa International Trade Exhibition
Dar es Salaam, Tanzania
www.expogr.com/tanzania/general
13-14 The London Textile Fair
London, UK
www.thelondontextilefair.co.uk
August 12-14 Jinjiang Fair Yantai
Guangzhou, China
www.cn-jit.com
24-27 Intertextile Shanghai
Shanghai, China
www.intertextilehome.com
31-3 Sep Textech Bangladesh
Dhaka, Bangladesh
www.cems-textech.com
September 3-6 Irantex Tehran
Tehran, Iraq
www.spnco.net
7-9 Textile Expo Uzbekistan
Tashkent, Uzbekistan
www.textileexpo.uz
12-15 Texworld Le Bourget
Paris, Le Bourget
www.texworld.fr.messefrankfurt.com
29-2 Oct Modexpo Bucharest
Bucharest, Romania
www.modexpo.ro/en
October 7-9 CAITME
Tashkent Uzbekistan
www.caitme.uz
18-21 Exintex Puebla
Puebla, Mexico
www.exintex.com
November 8-10 ATF
Cape Town, South Africa
www.atfexpo.co.za
14-15 International Apparel and Textile Fair Dubai
Dubai, UAE
www.internationalapparelandtextilefair.com
23-25 Textech Indonesia Jakarta
Indonesia, Jakarta
www.cems-textech.com
Further information on these events can usually be obtained from the Embassy (Commercial Office) of the country in question. Des renseignements plus complets sur ces évènements peuvent être demandés de l’Ambassade (Bureau Commerciel) du pays en question
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE ONE 2016
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NEWS IN BRIEF IDC invests more than US$800mn in textiles and clothing industry THE TExTILE AND clothing industry received more than US$800mn in investment in 2015 from the Independent Development Corportation (IDC). The IDC was one of the exhibitors at Source Africa - the annual panAfrican textile, clothing and footwear trade event, which took place on 8-9 June at Cape Town International Convention Centre (CTICC) in Cape Town, South Africa. The 2016 edition of the event welcomed manufacturers, buyers, suppliers and service providers from across Africa, Asia and the United States of America. Source Africa took place at the same time as the three day imbizo on the textile and clothing industry by the South African Clothing and Textile Workers Union. The show offers a platform for traders from within the continent and further beyond to promote Africanmade textiles to international buyers and to improve trade between African countries. This year’s show will see exhibitors from China and the USA,
with one in particular stating that investment into Africa keeps growing. Finn Holm-Olsen, from US-Aid said. "Four or five years ago it was really a struggle to get buyers to come to Africa. That is not a problem anymore - they are coming in their droves." A representative from IDC, Shakeel Meer, said the investment is aimed at boosting the number of job opportunities in the textile and clothing industry which has faced many job cuts. "As a country we know that the unemployment is the biggest challenge that we've got and the only way to resolve it is by starting up new businesses," said Meer. "By expanding and we need to work with private sector to find those opportunities to identify sectors where we can grow and be competitive." He noted that despite the tough times the textile industry has faced it appears to be stabilising. "We are here to support textile and clothing in particular. We see opportunities for the industry to develop.”
AFWN 2016 to hold textile and garment conference
AFRICA FASHION WEEK Nigeria 2016 (AFWN) is taking place in Lagos, Nigeria between 1-3 July and will for the first time hold a textile and garment manufacturing conference. The event, which is taking place at Eko Hotel & Suites V.I, Lagos, Nigeria is set to discuss a number of topics including job opportunities in the garment manufacturing industry, ways industry leaders can tap into the skills available from the foreign market, and the challenges the manufacturing industry faces which poses the question if whether the textile manufacturing is a viable option. According to event organisers, the conference aims to help promote Nigerian brands through worldwide exposure and distribution. It will explore a number of systems that are expected to create opportunities for Nigerians, attracting The AFWN 2016 conference will discuss job young, talented and creative creation in the garment manufacturing industry fashion entrepreneurs. A number of industry experts from across the globe are due to attend the event which will have an extensive programme covering a wide range of areas including marketing, banking, e-commerce and manufacturing. Speakers at the event will include Dr. Mustapha Akinwunmi Hon. Commissioner For Finance Lagos State, Dapo Adelegan (President, Nigerian-British Chamber of Commerce and Akintunde Oyebode executive secretary Lagos State Employment Trust Fund.
Iran’s textile industry benefits from Swiss technology SWITZERLAND’S TEXTILE MACHINERY producers as long term partners of Iranian textile companies are keen to play a major role in reviving Iran’s textiles sector. Following the recent ending of international sanctions which prevented its continued development. A seminar was held in Iran, back in April, which was organised by Swissmem, the Swiss national textile machinery representative body, and participants included leading technology providers and a total of 350 delegate companies from the capital city itself, as well as from other textile manufacturing centres, including Isfahan, Yazd and Mashad. Swissmem president Ernesto Maurer stated that the seminar was a success in terms of both the number of companies which attended and importance of the Iranian companies taking part. Before the sanctions were placed there was a good customer and company relationship, Maurer noted. Iran is now keen to improve their relationship and business operations to pre-sanction levels. Maurer found problems with transfer of funds between Iran and Switzerland as one of the major challenges during the sanctions period. Therefore this was a key theme at the seminar, with two speeches arranged by experts on international financial transactions. The seminar has further
helped strengthen ties between their respective industries. In 2015, export sales to Iran totalled US$6.6mn. Switzerland is the main provider of technology to the country and is expecting the Iranian industry to account for a larger share of its global export sales total of more than US$1bn. One of the big Swiss company representatives at the event, Christian Lerch, of Jakob Müller, reflected that the Iranian delegates were pleased by the partnership efforts of Swissmem and that they brought a significant presence to their country in what is still a challenging business environment. A number of Jakob Müller customers took part, and they welcomed the opportunity to discuss technical and business information, as well as the chance to network and take part in the social programme. They wanted to demonstrate a real personal interest alongside the business benefits it will bring. The Iran textile industry came from Mehran Zehtab, of Kian Sanat Afzar, an engineering service company which represents Swiss companies Retech, SSM and Heberlein in Iran. Zehtab stated that Swissmem is needed in Iran so they will be able to meet the requirements of their specialist fields including synthetic fiber production and melt spinning in particular. Companies in Iran are eager to learn about the latest technology for the market.
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1888 Mills and CmiA enter new deal COTTON MADE IN Africa (CmiA), a project launched and managed by the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF), an initiative supporting small farmers in Africa to grow cotton in a fair and sustainable way, have signed an agreement to sell its produce to an American textile manufacturer in home and hospitality segment, 1888. The partnership agreement is expected to protect the environment and to support the small-scale cotton farmers. “CmiA, offers a great opportunity to align our business and sustainability initiatives,” said Jonathan Simon, CEO of 1888 Mills. “Our customers appreciate the outstanding craftsmanship and design of our products and with CmiA we can offer even more: A luxurious product made from high quality cotton that is produced in an ecologically and socially sustainable way.”
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SPOTLIGHT ON NIGERIA
NEPC moves to strengthen garment exports Nigerian Export Promotion Council (NEPC) has engaged Style House, a Fashion Creative Consulting Agency in Nigeria to manage its Human Capital Development Centre (HCDC) in Lagos, to develop capacity for the garment sector.
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NDER THE ARRANgEMENT, Style House will manage the HCDC and run training programmes that meet international standards for developing the skills of practitioners in the garment-making sector to meet the requirements of the fashion industry for exports, NEPC announced on its website. “Nigeria is awash with creative talents in the fashion industry, whose designs can compete anywhere globally. However, there is a wide gap in production and finishing, which affects the marketability of garments made in Nigeria at an international scale. Nigeria needs to participate more in the global market for garments, which was about US$800bn in 2015 and expected to reach
one trillion dollars by 2020. The purpose of this centre is to build capacity of Nigerian garment producers in apparel production for local but particularly the export market,” Olusegun Awolowo, executive director and CEO of NEPC told reporters after a tour of the facility. Awolowo said the objectives of the centre include the creation of a pool of skilled personnel
“Nigeria is awash with creative talents in the fashion industry, whose designs can compete anywhere globally.
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Nigeria needs to meet global standards in garment-making for worldwide export. (Photo: guppyimages/Fotolia)
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for employment in garment manufacturing, inculcating international best practices in apparel production, building capacity for entrepreneurs in apparel production thereby making the sector more competitive and strengthening the existing sector for domestic production and export purposes. In her remarks, Omoyemi Akerele, founder of Style House said, “We are excited about this opportunity to partner with NEPC on developing capacity for the garment sector. We will bring our experience and knowledge of the industry to bear in the management of the Centre. Our testimonial speaks of successfully creating a revolution in the Nigerian Fashion Industry by using our powerful knowledge to brainstorm truly innovative concepts and execute them professionally with enthusiasm that is yet to be surpassed.” NEPC recently relocated the Human Capital Development Centre to its office complex at Apapa Lagos. The centre was originally set up over 10 years ago in Ikoyi, as the AgOA Human Capital Development Centre, in partnership with the United States Agency for International Development (USAID). It is equipped with machines and facilities to enhance learning for skills development in the sector. NEPC intends to reach out to national and international development partners to support funding requirements for training at the facility. The United Nations Industrial Development Organisation (UNIDO) is in talks with NEPC to collaborate on the centre. NEPC is Nigeria's apex agency for the promotion of non-oil exports. It promotes the development and diversification of Nigeria's export trade; assists in promoting the development of export-oriented industries and plays a leading role in the creation of export incentives. Style House Files is a Creative Development Agency that is primarily focused on the advancement of the Nigerian and African Fashion industry. Its leading initiative – Lagos Fashion and Design Week (LFDW), is positioned as a cutting edge fashion event on the African fashion calendar. ❑
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RWANDA
Rwanda and Chinese investors discuss plans to aid textile industry
Rwanda’s government is mulling a joint venture with Chinese investors to establish a garment factory in the capital Kigali. Rwanda wants to develop its own textile industry and create jobs through the factories. (Photo: poco_bw/Fotolia)
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peaking to tailors in Kigali, minister of trade and industry, Francois Kanimba, said the Kigali garment factory, put at US$1.3mn, was expected to open by the end of this year. The investment would include the procuring of 670 machines to produce different types of clothes, according to officials. Rwanda wants to develop its own textile industry, cut imports of garments and create jobs through the factory. Last year, imported clothes both new and second hand cost Rwanda more than US$100mn. Every year, Rwanda is reportedly spending over US$15mn importing second hand clothes. Kanimba said, in order to reduce the reliance on
imported clothing, the government was seeking funds and skills from Chinese investors for the textile industry. "Recent study shows that among the economic platforms, tailoring tops opportunities for increasing more locally made products," Kanimba said, noting some imported "knitted clothes such as uniforms" can be made by locals. He added that the Chinese investors had also offered to train local tailors. The East African nation has two textile companies in Kigali, including China-based C&H Garments whose products are exported. C&H Garments has invested in computerised sewing machines and will train up to 400 workers from the region. â?‘
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TEXTILE NEWS
Record turn out and big success for IDEA 2016 Companies from more than 70 countries presented their latest innovations at IDEA 2016 and hosted premier industry experts to present their outlook for select industries at a regional level. The trade fair for the international industry received more than 7,000 visitors from more than 60 countries, the largest turnout ever received in the event's history which took place inside the Boston Convention and Exhibition Centre. IDEA 2016 took place at the Boston Convention centre between 2-5 May 2016.
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HE TRADE FAIR took place between 2-5 May 2016 at the Boston Convention and Exhibition Centre in Boston, Massachusetts. A total of 555 companies displayed their products and services at the three-day event, an increase of 15 per cent over IDEA 2013. The event involved three days of exhibits, market intelligence, education, and face-to-face discussions. “With the increase of six per cent in registrants, this provided the larger crowd with additional space to move about and comfortably interact with each other,” said Dave Rousse, president, INDA and organiser of the event. Stating that the new Boston venue was wellaccepted, Rousse continued, "We are all fortunate to be in a dynamic, innovation-driven industry with continued great prospects, as evidenced by the many announcements of new products, new machinery and new capabilities during the show.” INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, serves hundreds of member companies in the nonwovens/engineered fabrics industry in global commerce. INDA stated since 1968 its events have helped members connect, learn, innovate, and develop their businesses. INDA educational courses, market data, test methods, consultancy, and issue advocacy help members succeed by providing
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them the information they need to execute business strategies, the organisation noted. “This record-setting turnout confirms IDEA as the world’s preeminent event for nonwovens and engineered fabrics,” said INDA president Dave Rousse. “We are delighted with the enthusiasm of exhibitors and visitors alike regarding the value of this show to advance their business interests. The new Boston venue was well-accepted. We are all fortunate to be in a dynamic, innovation-driven industry with continued great prospects, as evidenced by the many announcements of new products, new machinery and new capabilities during the show.”
“INDA stated that since 1968 its events have helped members connect, learn, innovate, and develop their businesses.
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This year IDEA occupied all 500,000 square feet at the Boston Exhibition and Convention Center, about 25 per cent more than in Miami Beach. “With the increase of six per cent in registrants, this provided the larger crowd with additional space to move about and comfortably interact with each other,” said Rousse.
Attendees at IDEA 2016’s welcome reception were entertained with a live band, dance music, and Southern cuisine at the House of Blues. The show also featured the presentation of awards for outstanding achievements. Mogul, a Turkish nonwovens producer, and Diaper Recycling Technology/MobiAir, a Singapore manufacturer of modular plug-and-play air handling systems, were both handed awards for entrepreneurship by an industry Magazine. These awards recognise the companies, individuals and new products that have changed the face of the global engineered fabrics industry. ITW Dynatec’s Ultra Strand Coating System was also presented with an award in the equipment category, while Jacob Holm’s SoftLite lightweight nonwovens won in roll goods category and BASF’s SAVIVA SAP technology won in the raw materials category. The IDEA 2016 Lifetime Achievement Award was awarded to Leo Cancio, advisor at Clopay Plastic Products. INDA’s IDEA16 Achievement Awards recognised the brightest innovations from the leading companies, individuals, and new products in the nonwovens and engineered fabrics industry. Through online voting, the following companies were selected as winners from the finalists: ITW Dynatec’s Ultra Strand Coating System – the patent-pending strand applicator is specifically
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TEXTILE NEWS designed for the disposable hygiene market. Roll good - Jacob Holm’s SoftLite lightweight nonwovens – with basis weights as low as 15 grams, SoftLite™ fabrics are lighter while also providing powerful performance and soft comfort for hygiene uses. Raw materials - BASF’s SAVIVA™ SAP Technology based on its round shaped particles, with micro-pores, SAVIVA has an innovative liquid distribution mechanism, making it a highly efficient superabsorbent polymer in a diaper core. Short Life Converted Products -WipeMeWorld’s WipeMe® flushable wipe on a roll – These wipes can be dispensed and flushed the same way as traditional toilet paper. Long Life Converted Products - Impossible
UAE’s printed textiles market set for growth
THE UAE’S PRINTED textile market is set to reach 29.8bn sq m by 2020 due to more advanced technology coming to the market aimed at improving print speeds, design and efficiency. Screen printing still holds a major share of the global textile printing market pavilions. "growth in the coming years will surely be driven largely by the digital textile printing market,” said chairman of International Expo Consults, Abdul Rahman Falaknaz, adding “Open system inkjet print heads that enable use of inks from multiple vendors, and launch of lower priced competitive solutions are expected to fast-track the adoption of digital printing technology.” The chairman also noted that the textile printing industry has had a positive response from the international fashion industry. A recent runway show at New York Fashion Week saw models wearing clothing made of digitally printed textiles. Ashok Sawlani, current managing Committee member at Texmas said, "The textile sector is one of the largest trade segments of Dubai. The potential of the textile trade is enhanced with the construction of Dubai Textile City by Texmas, an association of textile merchants, and the upcoming Dubai Design District (D3) promises a new dimension to textiles business with a large number of new and established fashion designers.”
Objects, LLC’s Composite-Based Additive Manufacturing (CBAM) 3D printed pieces – which involvesn new, industrial 3D printing technology using nonwoven fabrics – such as carbon, glass, and aramid – to make strong yet lightweight fiberreinforced composite parts. Bicma, manufacturer of hygienic disposable absorbent converting machinery displayed its absorbent hygiene technology at the show. The company presented a range of technology for disposable hygiene converting machinery for the production of baby diapers, adult incontinence products and sanitary napkins. With more than 20 years of experience, Bicma is renowned for its specialty machines for the disposable market and holds the expertise in manufacturing best in class
hygiene product machineries. Bicma’s core activities focus on equipments for the production of femcare, baby care and incontinence care products. IDEA is a nonwovens' event featuring an international exhibition, conference and seminars. The events is expected to attract more than 7,000 business visitors from 70 countries and provides a common platform for discussion between stakeholders from across the global technical textile value chain, welcoming participants, visitors and other key decision makers from a diverse cross section of the technical textile industry. IDEA proved to be a success in 2016 and will be back in 2019,but this time it will be held at the Miami Beach Convention Centre, in Miami Beach, Florida on 26-28 March 2019. ❑
Oerlikon buys Truetzschler’s staple fiber technology technology portfolio OERLIKON HAS ENTERERD a deal to acquire the complete staple fibers technology portfolio of Trützschler Nonwovens &Man-Made Fibers gmbH, Egelsbach, germany. The firm is part of the german Truetzschler group, which is a specialist in fiber preparation for the yarn spinning and nonwovens industries. The deal will provide access to new customers in the market for synthetic staple fibers. Oerlikon stated that it is in the process of enhancing its technology and market position in its core business areas by taking advantage of the ongoing consolidation in the chemical fibers market, which was spuured on by the market downturn in China. With the acquisition of the former Fleissner staple fibers technology portfolio and the intellectual property (IP) of Trutzschler Nonwovens & Man-Made Fibers gmbH, the Segment is at the forefront of technology and equipment in the global staple fibers market. The
acquisition extend the Manmade Fibers Segment’s staple fibers technology expertise and widens the segment’s customer base and service business in the respective areas. Staple fibers projects are overtime becoming more and more tied to continuous polycondensation facilities. The Manmade Fibers Segment is well positioned to operate as a provider of complete solutions. Both companies have agreed not to reveal information related to the transaction. Truetzschler group is will no longer continue with its staple fiber business as it will instead spend more time on its core business activities. Dr. Roland Fischer, CEO of the Oerlikon group, stated, “The acquisition of the staple fibers technology portfolio of Truetzschler is another important step in line with our strategy to strengthen our position outside the filament business, where we occupy a leading technology and market position.”
CTCP creates positive impact on South Africa’s technical textile sector THE SOUTH AFRICAN textile and clothing sector faced a number of challenges at the beginning of the new millennium. Textile and clothing manufacturers in the country have been affected by cheaper imports of Chinese fabrics and finished products. Employment in the sectors fell with more than 100,000 people in the textile and clothing sector losing their jobs. The South African government and the Department of Trade and Industry (DTI) have worked together to improve the industry with the roll out of the Clothing Textile Competitiveness Programme (CTCP), a programme managed by the IDC and the CTCP Desk, which was structured to drive competitiveness and increase productivity and employment opportunities in the South African textile and clothing sectors. The DTI’s new CTCP programme, the South Africa Technical Textile Cluster (SATTC) was set-up in 2011. The SATTC is a vertically integrated value chain cluster with an interlinked and innovative product offering, currently involved in the CTCP
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE ONE 2016
initiative. This market-driven public-private partnership cluster includes Gelvenor Consolidated Fabrics, Canvas and Tent, Stepahead Military Headwear Distributors, Fields Wear, Parachute Systems and Durban Overall, all of whom share a collective vision to become recognised global suppliers who outline the standards for quality and innovation in the technical textiles sector and to make South Africa a preferred global supply source. Over the last five years the SATTC has introduced a number of ground-breaking technological developments that have both enhanced productivity and product quality output. These developments include the installation of the Eton Material Handling System, a productivity improvement system, which was implemented by Canvas and Tent and reported significant improved productivity results. SATTC’s other investments in technology include Gelvenor Consolidated Fabric’s multi-axial machinery for energy-efficient fabric applications, which has opened new global markets.
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PRODUCT NEWS Epson presents advanced product range at drupa 2016
EPSON SHOWCASED ITS most advanced range of professional production inkjet printers and presses at drupa 2016 for label, sign & display, photographic, apparel, décor and product decoration applications. The event, which took place in Düsseldorf, Germany, saw Epson demonstrate its new products on its stand which was split across five zones: Prepress, Sign & Display, Label, Copy Shop and Technology. This enabled visitors at the show to focus on specialist demonstrations and applications and experience the significant business benefits each can deliver. The firm has enhanced its development programme and more than doubled the rate of new product launches for the professional printing industry since the last drupa held back in 2012. Epson stated that it aims to ensure that its inkjet printers, presses and inks produce new levels of quality, performance, ease of use and ROI. Over the past six months , Epson has launched 13 new printers and these will be demonstrated together for the first time at drupa. Epson designs and manufactures compact, precise and energy-saving inkjet printers and all use Epson’s own micropiezo printheads and ink. Every part of an Epson printer, including hardware, printhead, ink and firmware is optimised to ensure the best possible performance. Ensuring the technology is as environmentally friendly as possible is key to Epson. The design and precision of the inkjet printers and presses reduces energy and ink use, and reduces waste. For instance, the new SureColor SC-S printers that were on display at drupa use up to 4 x less energy compared to latex technology, around 15 per cent less ink than the previous SureColor generation and in some cases up to 50 per cent less ink than latex technology. Epson’s third generation PrecisionCore TFP printhead in single head and linehead configurations is enabling its printers and presses to deliver higher quality, higher speeds and better allround performance.
Marzoni unveils new spinning new technology
MARzONI HAS LAuNCHED new spinning technology for the textiles sector including the MDS1 ring spinning frame with Marzoli original components, the Mac3000 compact system and the MRM software platform. The MDS1 ring spinning frame is equipped with the following Marzoli original components: the PA 3000 pressure arm, Marzoli rings and the R²F sensors. According to the firm, these components contribute to the achievement of excellent output quality and enhanced production efficiency and ergonomics. Marzoli PA3000 pressure arm, features a bridge bar and the particular shape of the cradle, enables a perfect control of the fibers during main draft. As a result of this, customers will be able to see a huge improvement of yarn CV% and a significant reduction of IPI values. Marzoli rings have been created with coating and finishing operations to ensure high hardness and low friction features. This enables low heat, no wear of the ring and an extended running life of the traveler. The R²F are sensors integrated on the ring rail that continuously monitor the speed of the ring travelers. They work by giving a signal to the operator through flashing lights where idle travelers are and give them a warning if there are any slipping spindles. The integration of R²F sensors with YarNet, the special Marzoli software platform for production management, allows to carry out useful statistical analysis on the number of yarn breaks and slipping spindles in relation to machine settings and external conditions. This in turn gives customers the information for efficiency and productivity optimisation. Marzoli has also rolled out Mac3000. The firm noted that this innovative compact system includes all the most advanced technology for compact spinning. Marzoli reported that the results obtained produced outstanding quality levels on all types of yarns (carded and combed) and with all types of fibers (cotton, synthetic and technical). Customers are set to benefit from constant compacting action and reduced maintenance costs.
Dilo Group showcases new innovations at IDEA 2016 DILO GROUP, A leading equipment supplier of complete lines for staple fibre nonwoven fabric, had its new machinery concepts on display at IDEA 2016 which took place between 3–5 May 2016. The most recent machine concepts from DiloGroup companies DiloTemafa, DiloSpinnbau and DiloMachines were the new equipment components, which improve product quality and increase line capacity. DiloTemafa has introduced versions of the Baltromix bale opener and the card willow which work especially well in the processing of longer fibres at highest throughput. Cleaning intervals will be longer, while cleaning times will be reduced as a result of the design changes. The DON dosing opener is still an intermediate between fibre
Dilo is using needle module technology to increase needle insertion and precision. (Photo: Dilo Group)
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preparation and the card feeder and offers a fine opening stage, the company said. DiloSpinnbau has a new ‘Unifeed’ card feeder which enables the principle of volumetric charged feeding with the characteristics of a chute feeder but without the conventional overhead trunk which allows for lower ceiling height requirement. The fibre flock matt is condensed by a vacuum delivery apron to ensure improved uniformity of mass distribution. Extra flaps control this over the working width. The feeder can be changed depending on whether the fibres are medium/fine to coarse and medium to long staple fibres. The newly developed card ‘VectorQuadroCard’ uses a modular transfer group between breast and main section. The quick change facility of this roller group gives different carding options. According to the firm, the delivery system is also flexible to offer parallel laid, random or condensed web. The preopener section on this card has four worker/stripper pairs with five pairs on the main cylinder. The key is to ensure high throughput with good web quality. Customers can also benefit from DiloMachines new DLSC horizontal crosslapper version which enables electromechanical web infeed speeds up to 200 m/min depending on fibre specification. Such infeed speeds will prevent the lapper being the line bottleneck. This lapper works together with the CV1A web regulation system for improved felt evenness and can achieve fibre savings. This very high web infeed speed has been possible through a further increase in the drive power within the three apron layering technology. A web guiding system (“extended web guide”) can be added to avoid web wrinkles at lapper reversals.
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PRODUCT NEWS Shima Seiki launches MACH2X for wholegarment knitwear SHIMA SEIKI HAS introduced MACH2X, a wholegarment machine that offers four needlebeds and Shima Seiki’s original SlideNeedle. It can design beautifully shaped, high-quality wholegarment products which conform to the body for enhanced comfort and a more elegant silhouette. Improvements in speed and productivity can also be seen on this machine. Mach2x can reach a maximum knitting speed of 1.6 meters per second. The R2carriage system enables quicker carriage returns to increase efficiency per knitted course. Split Stitch technique also enables efficient knitting by removing empty courses. Furthermore, MACH2X123/153 features 18L gauge capability that enables a large-hook version of the SlideNeedle is used for knitting 15-gauge fabrics at 18-gauge needle pitch for very high productivity when knitting ultrafine
gauge garments. The tighter needle pitch also produces a tighter fabric especially for ribs, improving the quality of wholegarment pieces. This is the result of a thorough re-evaluation of the old design of the previously used latch needle. A flexible twopiece slider mechanism splits and extends beyond the needle hook for further potential especially in complicated transfers. According to the company, SlideNeedle achieves symmetrical loop formation for knitting the best possible quality fabrics. Other improvements include a control unit that is featured on the machine for easier shipping and installation, better maintenance, and more efficient use of space. A USB memory interface and a backup power supply are also available. MACH2X also features a reduced overall height for improved access to top tension
Uster Quantum 3 yarn clearer for quality management MODERN MILL MANAGERS have a lot of responsibility on their shoulders as they produce top quality textiles while also ensuring the company’s efficiency and profitability goals are met. Today’s systems for quality testing and monitoring systems work to help overcome these challenges, with solutions such as usterR® Quantum 3 yarn clearers and uster Quantum Expert 3 data systems offering total control of every area of quality management. The uster Quantum 3 Anniversary Edition installed in combination with the uster Quantum Expert 3 improves quality management significantly, while also improving production efficiency. The uster Quantum Expert 3 enables routine tasks to be completed faster, without the need for constant patrols between machines or assessment of multiple data reports. The uster systems provide all the quality assurance the mill needs. Managers will be aware of any possible problems from a single print-out alert and the uster Quantum Expert 3 examines the whole picture, customised to the mill’s individual requirements. Planning and preparation for management meetings is also streamlined as a result of informative reports being produced based on data collected from the winding machine control units. The uster Quantum Expert 3 also provides the special yarn body visualisation, as well as a clear picture of quality and productivity trends. Therefore any talks that take place are based on concrete facts and decisions made on the basis of accurate data. In turn, mill managers and production personnel, spend less time on everyday issues, so they can instead spend their time on thinking of ways to further improve productivity. Quality-oriented spinning mills, especially those serving competitive global markets, aim to deliver the yarn quality customers demand, while also sustaining high productivity levels. According to uster Technologies, firms investing in the new uster Quantum 3 Anniversary Edition yarn clearers can expect a quick return. Yarn monitoring means quality is sustained and warns customers of any potential problems.
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units. Shima Seiki noted that improvements in both quality and productivity make MACH2X an ideal machine for high-quality whole garment production. MACH2X features a new computer-controlled takedown system which features front and rear panels over which small pins are placed for separately controlling takedown tension for the front and back when knitting wholegarment knitwear. Every panel is also split into 1.5-inch sections which can be individually monitored for specific tension control across the entire width of the garment. This precise control over takedown tension permits three-dimensional shaping of wholegarment items - such as enabling shoulder lines for set-in sleeves to be positioned over the shoulder toward the back, allows for a more dimensionally accurate garment which fits better to the shape of the torso.
DuPont’s new Artisti textile inks
DuPONT ADVANCED PRINTING has launched its new DuPont Artistri inks, offering brighter colours, shorter production cycles and higher production throughput for direct-to-garment (DTG) and roll-to-roll (RTR) printing. The new inks were displayed at drupa 2016 trade fair which was held between 31 May-10 June in Düsseldorf, Germany, alongside the rest of DuPon’t product range. “Artistri inks have long been considered best-in-class, and these innovations move the bar even higher,” stated Eric Beyeler, global marketing manager, DuPont Advanced Printing. “These inks deliver both brighter colors and faster printing capability, which provide a competitive advantage for our customers.” DuPont noted the Artistri®Brite DTG inks offer improvements to DuPont’s industry-leading white ink for DTG printing.
Groz-Beckert showcases highlights at ITM 2016
GROz-BECkERT HAD TRANSPARENT knitting and warp knitting machines on display at this year’s ITM exhibition held in Istanbul, Turkey. The event gave vistors the opportunity to see how all the components work together. The "Circularknit" exhibit, a circular knitting machine replica created using acrylic glass, featured 14 different knitting technologies from gauge E10 to E50. The transparent "Warpknit" presented the warp knitting modules that are new in the Groz-Beckert product range. One of the big highlights was the further developed litespeed version "litespeed plus". Its optimised needle geometry lowers the machine temperature and in turn provides huge energy savings for customers in the knitting process. The acrylic model "litespeed plus" will show the needle "live in action", the company said. In the product area weaving, Groz-Beckert alongside others showcased the quick and universal knitting machine knotMaster AS/3 at the ITM. One of the benefits to using the powerful knotting machine is its easy service and maintenance. Touch screen control ensures ITMA took place in Istanbul, Turkey between operation is smooth, according 29 May-1 June 2016 to Groz-Beckert. Featuring four tying methods, single knots, automatic repetition, doubles detector and yarn break detector the AS/3 provides many useful features and, with its widespread range of applications. Furthermore the knotting machine is capable of handling various different yarns such as cotton, wool, synthetic in addition to blended and elastic yarns. In the felting section, special needle solutions for various applications in the nonwovens industry were the main focus. The individual needle types of the Groz-Beckert range of products are different in terms of barb size and shape as well as working part gauge and cross-section, the right needle can be offered for each application.
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COTTON
Dolce Vita opens door for Eritrea’s textile industry Dolce Vita, the brand name of the Eritrean subsidiary of the zambaiti Group, za.Er, based in Asmara, Eritrea has recently launched a new label, ‘Made in Eritrea’ for international export in the textile market, producing women’s and children’s clothing and household linen made from 100 per cent cotton.
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OLCE VITA’S RETAIL outlets can be found in Asmara and three more are situated in the Eritrean cities of keren, Dekemhare and Mendefera. za.Er’s collection ranges from tops featuring a matching collar, sleeves and buttons to basic shirts and has overtime, produced a wide selection of fashionable products to become the trusted brand it is today. za.Er’s core values centre around quality, efficiency and hard work. The company was set-up at the time of the Italian colonisation and was formerly known as barattolo factory and was in operation until the Coordinating Committee of the Armed Forces, Police, and Territorial Army (Derg) took control of it and nationalised it, when soon after the factory was abandoned. The company’s CEO Pietro zambaiti told Africa and Middle East Textiles, “We employ 540 workers in three business units; spinning - where we utilise 100 per cent African Cotton and export yarn to Europe, shirting - where we produce 800 shirts a day all exported to Europe and other garments- pants, polo and recently uniforms (civil and military).” The products are designed in Italy and files are sent directly to the factory via email and printed on the plotter before the cutting process begins. Production is monitored on a daily basis with a highly accurated system developed locally and supports all production and warehouse transfer datas. StartAfrica produces its garments exclusively in East Africa at za.Er. The company's mission is to produce and market cotton garments made in East Africa, offering skilled workers with jobs and providing them with technical training and assistance, moving forwards towards a new vision of Africa - unlocking its potential, strengths and desire to grow and achieve an integregrate cotton textile chain in East Africa. The spinning unit produces 70,000 kg of twisted yarn per month. Currrent production is 300,000 shirts a year, however za.Er plans for the first time to experiment with Eritrean cotton, aiming to increase production to 450,000 shirts a year by the end of 2017. Most customers are situated in Italy such as the Italian Scout Association, while other customers include department stores such as Lina Cente, Nara shirt or Pierre Cardin and customers based in Croatia, Turkey and Thailand among others. The company plans to export to the MiddleEastern market in the near future and also Sudan
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Za.Er Plc is a pioneering project baed in Asmara, Eritrea. (Photo: Za.Er)
and other East African countries. Other products produced such as bed linens and shirts is giving urban dwellers a range of options to choose from. Both the young and old in Eritrea wear finely tailored shirts with mixed or classic fabrics and local demand for the clothing is dominated by the male population, with around twenty male shirts sold for every one female shirt, according to
“Za.Er’s core values centre around quality, efficiency and hard work, noted Zambaiti.
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Eritrean news website Shabait. It reported that the company CEO, Pietro zambaiti, said za.Er’s principal lies in promoting the values of professionalism and discipline in an environment without affecting smaller businesses. According to zambaiti, employees are given the chance to grow and the company now aims to attract other investors to the country. za.Er’s workers are spread across the production line which is divided into three areas:
garmenting, spinning and shirting. “We witness the employees working ardently in each department under the purview of their departmental heads and supervisors. With about 540 staff members, eighty per cent of which are women, it was important for za.Er to create a stafffriendly environment. “As any forward-looking company, za.Er has created an atmosphere where employees have the possibility to grow within the company, continue to learn while getting a higher salary than the average wage in Eritrea,” added zambaiti. The company is managed by an Eritrean management team which consists of head of departments and Eritrean professionals who have gained international work experience. At the factory, attendance, break times and schedules are monitored by supervisors. Pietro explained that by using this system, employees learn the values of discipline at work and are provided incentives for good work. The reward for their good efforts is reflected in their salary. Workers who combine both discipline and technical expertise, is a key factor that has resulted in za.Er’s success.
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COTTON Depending on the number of years within the company, workers recieve a pay rise each year. Heads of department have made their way up purely through hard work. Shabait reported that some of the workforce at the factory were on their lunch break while others worked. Employees are provided with fair labour conditions, with the two shifts enabling production to run smoothly from 7 a.m to 4 p.m. The whole process is organised so that new staff on training wear green gowns, while supervisors wear red ones. All new staff have to undergo safety and security training, including training for specific tasks such as ironing. Most of the time expertise comes from Italy and other countries to ensure employees are working, in line with the standards imposed by the international market. The textiles industry is usually under heat for poor working conditions across the world, which makes za.Er’s staff friendly environment an added plus, noted Pietro. The company manages to have both a quality product while keeping its employees happy. Pietro explained that creating a nice working environment prevents employee turnover. “We want to recruit people who are not dreaming of leaving the country but instead willing to learn, work and grow in their endeavors and be part of Eritrea’s development,” zambaiti told Shabait. Employee turnover is a huge challenge the company is faced with and to combat the problem, social services are made available and free of charge. With about eighty per cent of workers being female, child care was a key need for workers and so a pre-school was set up within the facility. Qualified social workers are in charge of employees’ children and some of their duties included feeding them and helping them with homework. za.Er has even gone further to organise schooling at higher grades, sending students to the Italian School of Asmara.
The machines used for producing garments include Plotter FK System and Lectra, Maica, Juki and Pfaff. (Photo: Za.Er)
In addition to all of this, bus services are also available to workers while a nurse is on call to respond to the needs of employees. All employees remain Eritreans, except the CEO Pietro who comes to visit the factory for two weeks every two months on average. Two women who left Eritrea to study, returned and are now in charge of the managerial part of the company.
By 2020, Za.Er is aiming to source 100 per cent of its cotton from Eritrea. za.Er plays a huge role in nation branding, with “Made in Eritrea” products being worn in
Workers at Za.Er’s production facility. (Photo: Za.Er)
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE ONE 2016
different parts of the world, which can only be beneficial to Eritrea. Pietro added that despite challenges in terms of energy supply, the company is planning to grow productivity but also diversify its sector of activities. “It is not all about producing and selling. I do love my job but I love Eritrea and, to me, I am working P.R. for the country and am confident that its huge economic potential will be witnessed by continuing its openness and cooperation with the international.” Values of professionalism, a staff friendly environment and a system of merit are the key components to the success of za.Er exporting “Made in Eritrea” products. By 2020, za.Er aims to source 100 per cent of its cotton from Eritrea and it seems elsewhere across Africa countries are heading towards sustainable cotton production. Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) and African Cotton and Textiles Industries Federation (ACTIF) have recently signed a new strategic partnership to promote sustainable cotton and textiles in sub-Saharan Africa. The aim of the alliance is to increase the productivity, competitiveness and sustainability of cotton production on the African continent, as well as to strengthen textile production there. “The Aid by Trade Foundation and its Cotton Made in Africa (CmiA) initiative is the most important programme for sustainable cotton production in Africa,” said Jaswinder Bedi, chairman of ACTIF in a recent statement. “With the sustainable and certified CmiA cotton we can lay a reliable foundation for our business which aims to build up an integrated textile value chain on the African continent suitable for the domestic as well as international textile market.” StartAfrica is now working on a future project to design an ethical kidswear brand in Africa which will be styled in Milan and made in Africa. ❑
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ANTI-CONTREFAÇON
Le marché anti-contrefaçon vera une croissance énorme jusqu’à 2022 On s’attend à ce que le marché anti-contrefaçon mondial soit témoin d’une croissance rapide au cours de la période de prévision à cause d’une conscience croissante concernant les produits contrefaits. Une demande croissante pour l’emballage véritable avec des progrès technologiques est attendue d’avoir un impact sur le marché au cours des sept années à venir. ES PRODUITS CONTREFAITS posent un problème grave à l'économie mondiale et aboutissent aux pertes monétaires massives à travers toutes les industries. Les produits forgés liés à la santé, les textiles, l’alimentation et des produits de consommation ont incité des pertes financières graves et des problèmes liés à l'authenticité à travers le monde dans le passé récent. On s'attend à ce que la demande de la technologie d’anti-contrefaçon augmente au cours de l’avenir proche dû aux lois et aux règlements rigoureux à contributer à l’amélioration imposés par les gouvernements. Les gouvernements et les agences relatives à travers le monde prennent des mesures supplémentaires pour empêcher des opérations parce qu’ils ont un impact negative sur l’économie. L’information des consommateurs croissante du consommateur quant à l'emballage faux est projetée de contribuer à l’amélioration de l’économie dans un avenir proche. Des technologies d’anti-contrefaçon sont mises en œuvre par beaucoup d'entreprises industrielles et d’organismes de réglementation ces dernières années à travers presque toutes les industries. Les mesures d’anti-contrefaites jouent un rôle clé dans la préservation de la valeur de marque de n'importe quel produit. Pour ces raisons, les entreprises à travers presque toutes les industries, grandes et petites, ont bien investi dans les mesures d’anti-contrefaçon. Une telle tendance est prévue gagner plus de traction au cours de la période de prévision et d'effectuer franchement le marché.
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Ainsi, pour sauvegarder l'entreprise contre des pertes financières et la dévaluation de marque, les entreprises accueillent des technologies appropriées d'identification dans leur fabrication de produit et des opérations d'emballage. Les préoccupations croissantes de sécurité parmi les consommateurs sont un facteur clé prévu motiver des entreprises pour adopter la technologie de l'authentification adéquate et anticontrefaçon Les soucis croissants de la santé des personnes, en tant que faux produits ont négativement affecté le secteur de produits pharmaceutiques pendant ces dernières années, a encouragé de façon approfondie la technologie anticontrefaçon dans ce secteur. Des politiques régulatrices anticontrefaçon rigoureuses, particulièrement liées à l'industrie pharmaceutique, sont projetées pour aboutir à ce secteur étant témoin du taux de croissance le plus haut parmi toutes les industries d'application. L'augmentation de technologies de contrefaçon facilement disponibles et bon marché a incité des entreprises d'emballage à opter pour la technologie d'authentification avec un but de sauvegarder contre des pertes financières et l'évaluation de marque. Chaque société exige d'une chaîne d'approvisionnements efficace pour augmenter ses résultats. Le suivi et le retraçage sont le plus utile pour que les entreprises puissant garder un contrôle sur leurs chaînes d'approvisionnement. On s'attend à ce que des sociétés de logistique et de transport bénéficient le plus de telles
technologies qu'elles aident en traçant effectivement les paquets. On s'attend à ce que l'existence de plusieurs technologies de contrefaçon et de non-disponibilité des mesures anticontrefaçon soit une contrainte importante pour le marché au cours de la période de prévision. On s'attend à ce que le coût d'installation initial énorme gêne la croissance du marché au cours de la période de prévision. On s'attend aux innovations et des avances technologiques en raison de la demande croissante à travers toutes les industries pour offrir des occasions suffisantes pour les participants d'industrie. On s'attend à ce que la demande de la technologie d'authentification à distance promette des occasions abondantes dans un proche avenir. Le marché peut être segmenté sur la base de la technologie, l'utilisation, l'industrie d'utilisation finale et des regions. Quant à la technologie, les segments de produit clé sont le code et l’impression, RFID, des hologrammes, des étiquettes de sécurité et des conceptions d'emballage La segmentation d'utilisation comprend la technologie du suivi et du retraçage, les indicateurs d’effraction, les caractéristiques visibles, les caractéristiques cachés et les indicateurs légaux. Les industries principales d'usage final pour ce marché comprennent la nourriture et les boissons, des services médicaux et des produits pharmaceutiques, les produits industriels et automobiles, ainsi que les produits de consommation, l’habillement et les accessoires. ❑
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PLEINS FEUX SUR L’EGYPTE
L'industrie textile de l'Egypte gagnerait de la re-évaluation de sa devise L'ARGUMENT EST SOUVENT fait que l’Egypte gagnerait peu d'une dévaluation de devise parce qu'il n'a presque rien pour exporter – personne ne veut acheter ses produits. N'importe quelle dévaluation ferait un peu plus qu'élargissent le déficit de balance des paiements. OURTANT TOUT À fait au contraire, au moins une industrie égyptienne - l’industrie textile - a prouvé qu’elle peut faire la tâche, si seulement donné la chance. Dans la décade avant l'insurrection de l'Egypte en 2011, les exportations textiles cotonnières ont augmenté 19 pour cent par an en moyenne, ayant monté de US$108.9mn en 2001-02 à US$628.0 mn par 2010-11, selon les statistiques de la banque centrale. Les exportations de vêtements prêts-à-porter sont montées presque aussi vite, 17.6 pour cent par an, de US$187.2mn à US$771.2mn. Malheureusement, depuis l'insurrection, cette croissance a arrêté, avec les exportations de textiles cotonniers augmentant de seulement 3.1 pour cent annuellement dans les quatre ans jusqu'au juin de 2015 et les vêtements prêts-à-porter de seulement 1.4 pour cent. Les exportations textiles ont contracté dans les deux ans après le juillet de 2013, quand Mohammed Morsi a été enlevé du pouvoir et un degré de stabilité politique a été restitué. Beaucoup d’entreprises plus petites se sont fermées entièrement. Le gouvernement a haussé les prix d'électricité et de gaz naturel en juillet 2014, avec ceux payés par l’industrie montant surtout brusquement. Les factures de travail et d'eau ont aussi augmenté, et à cause des inquiétudes de sécurité, le gouvernement a rendu plus dur pour importer beaucoup de produits chimiques. Tout cela est arrivé à la fois quand les prix textiles tombaient dans le monde entier. Le problème le plus grand reste que la forte livre veut dire que les exportations sont trop chères. “Le taux de change est au sommet de la liste,”a dit M. Kassem. Bien que la livre égyptienne ait été dévaluée contre le dollar plusieurs fois l'année dernière, depuis le milieu 2013 elle s’est fortifiée contre l'euro, la devise d'un des marchés principaux
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Les exportations textiles ont contracté dans les deux ans après le juillet de 2013. (Photo: antoniotruzzi/Fotolia)
TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 1ERE EDITION/2016
d'exportation de l'Egypte. Pendant ce temps, les devises de beaucoup de concurrents de l'Egypte se sont affaiblies, en faisant leurs produits plus attrayants. Le taux de change est essentiel pour le succès d'un projet que M. Kassem pousse en avant: la construction d'une nouvelle ville textile près de Minya, 200 km au sud de Caire. Environ 1.3mn de mètres carrés ont été mis à côté pour la ville, qui doit être une entreprise conjointe avec le Conseil de Confection et de Textile National Chinois. Un protocole d’accord avec les chinois a été signé le mois dernier. Cela doit être un investissement tout-à-fait privé, un chinois et un égyptien.
“Le problème le plus grand reste que la forte livre veut dire que les exportations sont trop chères.
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Les investisseurs prévoient un centre textile pour fournir des fils et de l'étoffe aux producteurs de vêtement à travers l'Afrique, où l'industrie est toujours dans sa première enfance. Ils prévoient de se concentrer sur la filature et le tissage aussi bien que sur la teinture et le finissage. Ils ont choisi Minya parace que c’est près de la Mer Rouge, pour les exportations en Afrique sub-Saharienne, la Méditerranée et l'Afrique du Nord.. L'Egypte a une industrie forte de la confection, a dit M. Kassem, mais ses fils et industries d'étoffe ne sont pas aussi établis. Dans le monde entier, l'industrie textile vaut US$450bn. L'Afrique du Nord, ci-inclue l'Egypte, exporte US$10bn de textiles et l'Afrique sub-Saharienne US$2bn. Tous dépendent du fil et du tissu importés. Les Etats-Unis permet des textiles africains l'entrée hors taxe par l'acte africain de croissance, signé en 2000. Dans les cinq prochaines années, les exportations du continent pourraient excéder/dépasser US$20bn par année, qui traduit en demande énorme de fil et de tissu, a exprimé M. Kassem. Il y a une main-d’oevre disponible à Minya. Plus cela fait partie du plan du gouvernement de développer la Haute Égypte. Le centre textile traditionnel de Mahalla sur le delta de Nil a été exclu surtout en l'absence du terrain. Les investisseurs attendant le gouvernement pour livrer la terre et pour fournir l'infrastructure et la formation. Finalement ils planifient une série de telles villes textiles jusqu'en haut le Nil jusqu'à Assouan. La ville textile pourrait devenir une source significative de devise étrangère pour l'Egypte et fournir des emplois dans une région particulièrement déprimée. Mais la vitesse de son implémentation, aussi bien que le succès d'exportateurs textiles dans le reste de l'Egypte, sera étroitement lié à une devise qui n’évalue pas ses fabricants hors du marché. ❑
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EVENT NEWS
‘Yarn’ing for textile development
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Indo Intertex 2016 was held at Jakarta International Expo, Indonesia from 27-30 April at the Jakarta International Expo, where more than 610 exhibitors showcased their products and services.
RODUCTS AND SOLUTIONS on display included the latest in spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing, printing, textile testing and measurement and control equipment, garment machineries and accessories, textile products as well as all kinds of dyestuff and pigments with expansion in the specialised digital garment printing area. The huge response from international renowned textile and garment manufacturers shows eagerness to tap into growth opportunities in Indonesia as the country continues its strategic push for quality value added products and higher productivity with sustainable technologies in response towards Asean Economic Community (AEC). The IndoIntertex 2016 and similar events hold the potential to further transform and upgrade Indonesia’s textile industry by bringing a full array of product exhibits from all over the world with strong support from international trade bodies and government agencies. Germany, Italy, China, Korea, Taiwan were some of the countries the companies hailed from along with a number of loyal exhibitors like PICANOL, JUKI, BROTHER, Groz-Beckert which displayed the latest new needle generation and FONGS displaying dyeing machine which aimed to improve efficiency, energy saving and environment-friendly. A strong feature of this year’s fair was the wide range of Chinese exhibitors taking part, which have been grouped by product category to ensure sourcing efficiency for buyers.
The huge response from international renowned textile and garment manufacturers shows eagerness to tap into growth opportunities in Indonesia. (Photo: Indo Intertex)
Upgrading to meet challenges
development in the world market over the long term, Indonesia could improve its export-oriented textile and readymade garments (RMG) sectors and offer more competitive pricings. While boosting added value to products is one of the best countermeasures, it’s also highly imperative for Indonesia’s garment industry to upgrade its machinery and equipment to effectively meet market challenges. The theme of Indo Intertex 2016 was ‘Moving forward for ASEAN’s bright market’. Aside from acting as a technology showcase, it also featured initiatives underpinning the focus on sustainability. The event provided an integral element for BizMatch app to assist buyers and sellers connect and facilitate necessary meetings, allowing them to maximise their networking opportunities at the event. The Indonesian Textile Association concurrently organised the seminar under the theme ‘Energy Efficiency and conservation for textile and garment industry in Indonesia’ where professional speakers highlighted the potential energy conservation and sustainable industry development. Asia Non-woven Fabric Association (ANFA) discussed the prospect of developing applications for non-wovens in Indonesia while World Textile Information Network (WTIN) created a new conference platform for digital printing technologies, which covered topics that included ‘introducing
The theme of Indointertex 2016 was ‘Moving forward for ASEAN’s bright market’. (Photo: Indo Intertex)
Indonesia's garment industry has several challenges to address including increasing competition from other countries. (Photo Indo Intertex)
“A strong feature of this year’s fair was the wide range of Chinese exhibitors taking part, which have been grouped by product category.
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Textile Materials and Technology
Along with a one-stop demonstration of textile machinery and equipment, the event concurrently presented a manual screen printing demonstration area to enable onsite visitors to interact directly with the screen printing consultant while industry players could access the latest technology, first-hand information and development trends of the textile and clothing market. Indonesia’s garment industry has several challenges that it needs to address, including the rising labour cost, and the increasing competition from other countries such as Vietnam and Cambodia. To secure sustainable business
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EVENT NEWS digital printing into traditional printing operations’ and ‘the development of digital textile printing solutions as a contribution to a more sustainable manufacturing process’. One of the products displayed at the event is the new Montex 8500 stenter from Montforts. It includes several new features and options including an optional integrated support belt for heavy coated fabrics and a newly designed operator's platform with improved access. The product includes enhanced visualisation introducing 'smartphone' features, a new stentering chain and an Eco Booster heat recovery module where an additional Exhaust Air Cleaning device can be added. It also has new and further enhanced visualisation software Qualitex 800 with 'finger tip' control features, offering smart phone-type techniques for machine operators and ensuring smarter operating procedures. “The new stenter also incorporates the latest improved operator's inlet section platform featuring an optionally available slideable monitor across the machine,” a Monforts press release informed.Suessen demonstrated the PS7 Twindisc and the Twisttrap Navel in the rotor spinning technologies. Suessen's Elite Compactset is currently the world's most in demand, compact spinning system according to the company’s press release. “The Elite Compactset Advanced with the new components and devices makes the system even more attractive for its customers and more competitive in the market,” it added. According to the company, the HP-GX 3010Top Weighting Arm in 'RPT' version replaces pneumatic top arm systems on ring spinning machines, reusing the top roller equipment. Alongside, PS7 Twindisc and Twisttrap Navel, it displayed its Spinbox SQ equipped with Suessen premium parts spinning components such as Profil Rotors, Profil Pads, Torquestop, Solidring and Fibre Channel. “The PS7 Twindisc has a reduced width of the disc and thus a smaller contact area to the rotor shaft, which guarantees significantly reduced energy consumption,” Suessen informed. The Twisttrap Navel creates additional false twist in the zone of highest spinning tension, within the rotor, when spinning knitting yarn of cotton in the range of Ne 18 to Ne 40. This, according to Suessen, helps achieve production
The event brought a full array of product exhibits from all over the world. (Photo: Indo Intertex)
increase of 5-15 per cent by reducing the twist multiplier without increasing the rotor speed. The company also offers modernisation packages like Trash Channel, Carbon Fibre Rod, SRK Modernisation and Package Cradle Shock Absorber. Another firm, Rieter, demonstrated its products available across the spinning process and presented innovations for 4-end spinning systems, fiber preparation and spinning preparation. Their R 35 rotor spinning machine (in operation) was displayed at the event. The machine has properties of the 4 spinning systems and the 4 Com4 yarns for downstream processing. Picanol participated at the event to promote its latest airjet and rapier technology. It was the only high-end weaving machine supplier to join the exhibition with a direct presence through PT. Picanol Indonesia, a subsidiary of Picanol Group that handles the sale of new weaving machines and original spare parts along wth electronic workshop for PCB repaid and electronic troubleshooting. ❑
Italian textile machinery showcased at Indo Intertex ITALIAN MACHINERY BUILDERS marked Italy’s interest in the Asian market by taking part in the 2016 edition of Indo Intertex, the exhibition for textile and garment machinery and accessories held at Jakarta from 27-30 April.
Ten Italian machinery manufacturers exhibited in the common exhibition area hosted by the Italian Trade Agency and Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers (ACIMIT), the ICEACIMIT Punto Italia. The following
The common exhibition area hosted by the Italian Trade Agency and ACIMIT showcased machinery from 10 Italian companies. (Photo: Indo Intertex)
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE ONE 2016
companies were present at event – Carù, Crosta, Durst, Fadis, Ferraro, Monti-Mac, Pugi Group, Testa, Textape, Triveneta. Indonesia is one of the most relevant markets for Italian textile machine manufacturers in the area. According to ACIMIT figures, around US$27mn worth of Italian machinery were sold over the first eleven months of 2015 in the Indonesian market. Although there has been a drop in exports recorded compared to the same period for 2014, ACIMIT report that Italian manufacturers believe the Indonesian market is full of potential, and ready to develop business opportunities. ACIMIT president Raffaella said, “The textile industry is a driving force for the Indonesian economy. In recent years, the local government has supported an overall modernisation of existing technology. However, we believe that further investments are required on the part of Indonesian manufacturers in order to allow them to establish themselves fully in world markets.” Italy’s participation at Indo Intertex can be seen as a part of an intense programme of activities aimed at promoting the Italian textile machinery sector in Indonesia.
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TEXTILE MACHINERY
Q1, a mixed bag for Italian textile
MACHINE MANUFACTURERS Italian textile machine manufacturers see growth in its domestic market while exports drop in the first quarter of 2016.
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RECENT REPORT from the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers (ACIMIT) showed that Italian textile machinery manufacturers witnessed a recovery in orders from the domestic market during the first quarter of 2016. However, orders from foreign markets have seen a slight drop. ACIMIT is an organisation that works to promote the Italian textile machinery sector, an industrial sector comprising around 300 manufacturers, and support its activity. The report shows that during the period from January to March 2016 overall orders increased by 3 per cent compared to the same period the previous year. The value of the index for the first quarter of 2016 came in at 93.6 points (basis 2010=100).
In Italy, the index recorded an absolute value of 65 points, an 82 per cent growth compared to January–March 2015. In Italy the index recorded an absolute value of 65 points, an 82 per cent growth compared to January–March 2015, which had recorded the lowest point in terms of orders in recent years. The value of international orders came in at 100 points, a 3 per cent drop over the same quarter for 2015. ACIMIT president Raffaella Carabelli commented on the encouraging signs from the
The positive trends in the domestic industry have encouraged many Italian textile manufacturers to return to investing, ACIMIT reports. (Photo: antoniotruzzi/Fotolia)
domestic market, “The ACIMIT survey has certainly highlighted a positive moment, which is also a consequence of what was witnessed at the last edition of ITMA, the textile and garment machinery exhibition held in Milan last November.” She also said that following the positive trends in the industry, many Italian textile manufacturers have returned to investing. She
Italian Textile Machinery The Index of orders at Constant Value (Basis 2010 = 100)
The Italian textile machinery index of orders at constant value (basis 2010=100). (Photo: ACIMIT)
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attributed this to the support provided by the current government and the measures taken to promote the acquisition of machinery. However, the situation appears less encouraging on foreign markets. “The current global economic situation is not too positive,” said Carabelli. “The recovery in China in 2015 has yet to be verified, while other Asian countries, such as Bangladesh, which invested significantly last year, are showing signs of slowing down. The outlook for 2016 is spotty at best,” she added. This trend is also reflected in the 38th annual International Textile Machinery Shipment Statistics (ITMSS) released by the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF), which shows that the shipments in some of the textile machinery segments experiencing declines in 2015, as a result of the impact of the global economic slowdown on the textile machinery industry. The report states that the deliveries of new shortstaple spindles fell by nearly 8 per cent from 2014 to 2015. Shipped long-staple spindles and open-end rotors decreased by 61 per cent and 6 per cent, respectively. The number of shipped draw-texturing spindles fell by 26 per cent and shipments for new circular knitting machines by 6 per cent year-onyear. In contrast, deliveries of shuttle-less looms increased by 14 per cent in 2015 and shipments of flat-knitting machines rose by 52 per cent. ❑
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ITM 2016
Innovations at the ITM 2016
Germany-based Saurer Group recently presented its latest innovative spinning and winding machines offering customers triple added value in the spheres of energy, economics and ergonomics at the ITM (International Textile Machinery) 2016, at the Beylikdüzü Tüyap Convention and Congress Center in Istanbul from 1-4 June.
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The spinning and winding machines were introduced at this year's ITM. (Photo: antoniotruzzi/Fotolia)
The new machine cuts down on cost and reduces energy consumption. (Photo: antoniotruzzi/Fotolia)
HE COMPANY, WHICH specialises mostly in machinery and components for yarn processing presented its new rotor spinning machine, ‘Autocoro 9’ and winding machine, ‘Autoconer 6’ at the fair. The new Autocoro 9 with its intelligent individual spinning position technology has rotor speeds of 180,000 rpm, take-up speeds of 300 m/min and reduces the spinning costs by 19 per cent, energy consumption by 25 per cent and servicing outlay by 60 per cent. The machine, uses features like the intelligent sensor technology, smart process control, autocalibration and functionally optimised processes turns an automatic package winder, winding at the most productive settings virtually without the need for operators. “Innovations such as LaunchControl, SmartCycle, SmartJet and Speedster FX boost
productivity upto 12 per cent compared with the previous model. The new Eco-Drum-Drive system, SmartCycle and the intelligent vacuum control system ‘power on demand’ reduce the energy consumption on the Autoconer 6 by up to 20 per cent,” said the press release before the event. The company’s subsidiary, Saurer Zincer, also exhibited its new Zinser 72 ring spinning machine
“Innovations such as LaunchControl, SmartCycle, SmartJet and Speedster FX boost productivity upto 12 per cent compared with the previous model.
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE ONE 2016
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equipped with the self-cleaning Impact FX unit. It boasts an energy saving mode for suction and lowers production costs by upto 11 per cent according to the company. The new two-end TwinSuction system saves two-thirds of the energy consumption in combination with the sensor-controlled OptiSuction yarn break suction system. The ZinserImpact 72 compact spinning machine is equipped with the self-cleaning Impact FX unit and guarantees top productivity and optimal raw material utilisation. The new ZinserSpeed 5A speed frame boasts an energy-saving mode for suction and flyer table blowing that shaves 20 per cent off the total energy consumed. In 220 gauge, the speed frame is also up to 17 per cent shorter than its predecessor. With a doffing time of less than two minutes, the ZinserSpeed 5A ensures maximum production efficiency. ❑
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Ghana
Competition from cheap pirated textiles is forcing many local textile manufacturers to leave the industry. (Photo: Yenkassa/Flickr)
Choppy waters
for Ghanaian textiles
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Ghanaian textiles battle against counterfeit goods, unreliable power supply and rising costs.
HE TEXTILE INDuSTrY of Ghana, once a thriving industry has gone through a series of challenges in the past decade and has moved from its former state of glory to a pale shadow of itself. Now only 3,000 jobs remain in an industry which employed about 25,000 workers in the 1980s. The industry was not only a source of employment but had also contributed significantly to the country’s GDP. The decline of the industry in the recent years has resulted in the shutdown of production lines of many of the companies in the textiles sector. The surviving textile companies, Akosombo Textiles Limited, Texstyles Ghana Limited, Printex Ghana Limited and Ghana Textiles Manufacturing Company have had a tough time competing against imported pirated designs. Most of these companies produced high quality materials, designs and textile brands, which sold well on the local market as well as other markets in
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the West African sub-region. Wax prints produced by these companies were in high demand on the Ghanaian market because they were used in making traditional apparels such as the Kaba and other traditional wears. Sadly, cheap pirated textile with their affordability and visual resemblance to the original currently holds sway over the local market.
The threat of counterfeit goods
Ghana’s markets are flooded with cheap imports, mainly from China. Competition from cheap pirated textiles is the biggest hurdle before local
“Now only 3,000 jobs remain in an industry which employed about 25,000 workers in the 1980s.
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textile manufacturers. “The productivity of local companies is fast declining because of pirated textiles that come into the country,” Ghana Employers’ Association (GEA) director Charles Asante-Bempong said to the Independent. He pointed out that while the pirated textiles were cheaper, they stole designs from local manufacturers and replicated them with a lower quality and thereby killed local businesses. A walk through the markets of Ghana will show pirated designs conspicuously displayed in textile shops, where it is sold for almost half the price of the original. A pirated printed fabric, for example, sells for uS$6 while the original sells at uS$11. The harsh economic situation in the country push many Ghanaians patronise the cheap textiles. This situation has compelled a lot of genuine textile dealers to also join the sale of counterfeit ones to shore up their sales.
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Ghana According to Ghana Textile Printing managing director Kofi Boateng, a lot of textiles copying local designs are smuggled from Far East Asia. “They don’t only copy our designs they copy the trademark and logo and label. Almost every design we make has been copied.” Togo and Ivory Coast are often cited as the entry point for smugglers, with some Ghanaian market traders even travelling to China to collect designs. Earlier this year, the government suggested plans to launch a task-force to combat counterfeit goods in the country and supplement the dedicated textile group it launched in 2010. The Ministry of Trade and Industry along with law enforcement, local manufacturers and trade bodies regularly conduct raids in the country’s markets to seize pirated local prints. While the task force has seized a significant amount of pirated goods, information gathered by Weekend Finder indicates that the task force has met with hurdles and not delivered the expected results. As a result, designs of the local textile manufacturers continue to be pirated and imported into the country, with the fake ones crowding the originals out of the market.
Government measures
Earlier this year, deputy minister of trade and industry Kweku ricketts Hagan said that the government of Ghana was committed to reviving the textile industry and was doing everything possible to revive dormant manufacturing companies to make Ghana an export rather than import oriented nation. The deputy minister said that electricity and regular power supply has been the major concern of manufacturing companies and pointed out that the government has initiated some measures to solve the situation. However, according to industry players, the government measures have fallen short. Printex Ghana general manager in charge of administration Moses Zizer said when asked about the condition of textile industries in Ghana, “The situation has not improved at all; not even as we are expecting. The recent increases in cost of utilities have even made it worse. The increase in water is around 165 per cent, we use water a lot so how do you expect us to operate under such conditions.” Zizer called on the government to provide assistance to the local textiles industry to save it
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE ONE 2016
from total collapse. Printex, which is one of the surviving companies in the industry, is also struggling to survive and is currently operating at between 25 per cent and 30 per cent capacity, three times a week. He said that the decline in the market had forced the company to lay off about 50 workers and had now employed contract workers. Zizer said the efforts attempts by the government to revive the industry had not yielded any results. The industry, he said, needed assistance from the government, especially when their main external competitors had all the factors of production at their disposal. “The industry needs assistance. If you are competing with China and they have all factors of production available and at a cheaper rate; then from the word go, you are at a disadvantage,” he said. Authorities in the textile industry, he said, had shown some reluctance in helping them to rid the market of their pirated designs explaining that, “we sense some reluctance from the authorities to let us continue with our raids. We do not know if it is because it is an election year and they are anticipating displeasure from voters.” ❑
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EvEnT nEws
Source Africa highlights need for Africa to maximise AGOA opportunities Source Africa took place at the Cape Town International Convention Centre in Cape Town, South Africa focusing on African trade and market growth in the textile and apparel sector, following the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) agreement renewal to 2025.
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HE EVENT WAS hosted by Clay Hickson, Vice President, Strategy and Business Development, Worldwide responsible Accredited Production (WrAP), uSA. Speakers at the event included Nancy Whitney, deputy office director, uSAID/Southern Africa regional Economic Growth Office; Finn Holm-Olsen, director, Trade Promotion & AGOA, uSAID Contractor, East Africa Trade and Investment Hub, Kenya; Tim Armstrong, investment promotion director, Textile Development unit, The Ministry of Industry and Trade, Tanzania. Also present was Geerish Bucktowonsing, divisional manager textiles, Enterprise Mauritius; and Shakeel Meer, divisional executive: Chemicals and Textiles, Industrial Development Corporation (IDC), South Africa. The panel discussed trends and market growth under AGOA, the challenges faced by the African market, and the push to boost African trade and the economy. Sustainable development and social and environmental compliance were noted as the key factors transforming the textile and apparel sector and at the same time a range of industries throughout the globe. It is for this reason that Worldwide responsible Accredited Production (WrAP) and other compliance certifications are seen as a stamp of approval for buyers and investors. It was stated that audits alone will not bring compliance, and that these social and environmental matters require collaboration in order to achieve continuous improvement across the value chain. The 10-year AGOA renewal has led to increased confidence within the business community, especially in drumming up investor interest and companies sourcing from Africa. Bigger companies, such as the likes of Vanity Fair and PVH who traditionally buy worldwide, are now setting up in countries like Kenya and Ethiopia. Tim Armstrong highlighted that in fact the biggest cost to the textile and apparel industry is delay, placing huge importance on speed to market. Tanzania has experienced growth under the AGOA agreement, u$$29mn in trade in addition to 71 per cent growth. The country is paving the way in terms of sustainability, meeting the increased need for ecological transparency throughout the supply chain. The region keeps its use of pesticides to a minimum and in turn has spurred growing interest
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Source Africa took place in Cape Town, South Africa. (Photo: Source Africa)
from the likes of the Better Cotton Initiative and Cotton Made in Africa. Geerish Bucktowonsing from Enterprise Mauritius expressed to attendees of his amazement that Mauritius, a small nation, has sustained a leading position in terms of exports to the uSA. He attributes much of the region’s growth to their flexibility in terms of orders, quality of product, and absolute adherence to industry norms and standards. He also attributes much of the nation’s success to the tenacity, passion and commitment of the entrepreneur to adapt to changes in the market.
The panel discussed trends and market growth under AGOA, and the challenges faced by the African market. A number of questions were raised around the African market’s approach to AGOA, such as if Africa is ready to leverage on the opportunities presented by AGOA? A number of Africa’s challenges are infrastructuralfurther by the lack of
qualified workers in the region. During the seminar Q&A session, one of the participants at the seminar noted that, “Productivity is the key to unlocking Africa.” A key challenge addressed was the TransPacific Partnership (TPP). In addition to challenges such as infrastructure and productivity, this trade agreement sees countries such as Vietnam and Malaysia as direct competitors to African countries. Shakeel Meer stated that while TPP is a reality he, and the rest of the panel, urges African countries to treat TPP as an opportunity for growth, and to boost the continent’s competitive advantage in the Textile and Apparel sector. The most important point raised at the seminar was what awaits the African Textile and Apparel sector beyond 2025. As Nancy Whitney noted, the role of AGOA wa sto act as a springboard for African growth and development into the worldwide economy. It is vital for Africa to maximise the opportunities presented by AGOA, and to grow the local market. This could involve addressing restrictions between African countries to support inter-regional trade, and removing barriers such as customs and trade barriers. ❑
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