The next morning dawned with an unpleasant surprise: snow. The whole valley was draped in clouds and the atmosphere was damp and cold, the temperature hovering just above zero.
LA ESFINGE – PERU 8
soft pink morning light as Edu and Dani reached the start of Via. Dani took the lead and after just a few metres, all doubt had evaporated. No wonder, since the rock features come at you in rapid succession: double cracks, perfect dihedrals, tricky slabs, but a long way from a cakewalk climb. Placing protection and route-finding created the greatest puzzles on the Sphinx. The leader often found himself in a position where a fall would have severe consequences. The climbers took extreme care to not fall and to climb perfectly. By the afternoon Edu and Dani were standing on the summit, taking in the panorama. They both agreed that they had just climbed the best route of their lives.
The boys on speed
Alpine rock climbing can be compressed down to a series of first moments: the first glance up a wall. The first few metres climbed. The first smell and feel of the rock. These are moments that can never be repeated or recreated. Each time, it’s all new, even if you return to a wall to climb it again. Another set of vivid first moments, all over again. For Dani and Edu, Via del 85 was not a route they wanted to climb solely because of its beauty or stunning location. They wanted to push themselves to the limit by climbing it as fast as possible. This idea clearly pulsated in them after years of climbing competitions. Of course this approach is not easy for everyone to understand, especially the part about needing to constantly pushing oneself. Why do we take such risks? Over and over again? For Edu and Dani, life has to be a challenge. That’s imperative.
Due to the weather, the idea of making a speed ascent of Via del 85 appeared to be as likely as a bathtub full of hot water suddenly materialising in the middle of basecamp. Dani phoned in a weather report, which promised improvement, though not for a few days. No problem, as Edu and Dani are champions at making the most of their time. Over the ensuing days they had snowball fights, sculpted a busty snow woman, sang Spanish folk songs, played cards and, in general, became classic examples of men behaving badly. One evening the curtain of cloud withdrew and the sun shone through. Within a few hours the snow was history. Hope was back on the cards. The next morning was clear. Compared to a few days previously, they thinned the rack down to the bare minimum. Apart from a couple of cams and nuts, a 40-metre rope and a load of faith in the ability of themselves and their partner, Dani and Edu took nothing with them. That is exactly what speed climbing is all about: the right tactics, blind trust and an honest evaluation of the opportunities you have at your disposal. Even if you are sure you have all these capabilities in the chalk bag, climbing is still a risk. One small error, one slip or missed handhold far above the sparse protection and the consequences could be dire. There was no way they could hope to be rescued here, in such a remote location. They were on their own. OK, enough of the gloomy picture. It was time for the climbers to build up some speed! Edu and Dani got fired up, though they still found themselves struggling with the thin air. Edu dispatched the first 300 metres in a block lead. They were now halfway up the 750 metre long route. They swapped leads, and Dani took the sharp end. They simul-climbed and used every trick in the speed-climber’s book to keep moving. And after 1:45:43, Edu and Dani stood on the summit ridge together. Blood beat like a bass drum in their temples and it felt like their lungs would rip apart. No team has ever been faster on this route. There were no problems on the descent and when the boys reached basecamp the weather was still perfect. Their shapely snow woman had become an unrecognisable heap of mush. The two were pleased that there was still some time left before they had to break camp. “Edu, we still have one day,” said Dani. “Who knows when we’ll ever be here again. Let’s do something with it.” They did not have to think very long because the Sphinx still had one riddle to solve: a king line by the name of Cruz del Sur. “Oh man, I can hardly believe it. That is one of the best climbs I have ever done, Edu.” “I am happy for you, Dani, but so far you have said that at every belay.” Even the complex boulder section on the final 7a/7a+ pitch did not stop Dani and Edu’s run. Yet again they demonstrated their abilities, and after six hours and a few minutes they once again stood atop La Esfinge.
Lost wagers are debts of honour.
It is rare that folks achieve anything without having something to say about it afterwards. Summits are not usually silent places. Especially when it is two comedians like Edu and Dani. “Amigo, this is our last tour,” said Dani. “I hope you haven’t forgotten about that celebratory beer you owe me?” “And I thought that in such a significant moment you were going to say something meaningful like: ‘It is not the mountain we conquer, but ourselves.’” “Sounds like Alex Huber?” “It’s Edmund Hillary, in fact. Let’s go, I need a beer.” “Tranquilo, you’ll get your beer. But first of all show me how to get down this mountain on your gums.” “Couldn’t be easier.” Dani lay on his stomach, lowered his head so that his nose almost touched the ground, opened his mouth and then started to crawl like a stranded walrus. “Now you try – works like a charm!” A priceless picture. Edu started to gabble away because he could not believe what his friend was doing while Dani rolled up in laughter because Edu, snorting and floundering, looked just as idiotic. After a few minutes they were both completely out of breath. They agreed that they should keep at least some of their energy for the descent. They threw their arms around each other again before heading back down.