Wine Journal November/December 2014 by ABC Fine Wine

wine journal November/December 2014

A BC F I N E W I N E & SPI R I TS W I N E M AGA ZI N E

Gift ideas for

the wine lovers in your life

TOP CHAMPAGNE PICKS

for the holiday season

Learn to

speak wine

It’s the most wonderful time of the year—for wine drinkers. The ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Journal is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Copyright 2014 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved. Not all products are available in all stores. If the product you’re looking for isn’t available, ask us to order it for you! Hannah Grantz Editor hannahg@abcfws.com Meghan Guarino Contributing Editor meghang@abcfws.com Lorena Streeter Contributing Editor lorenas@abcfws.com

OUR WINE EXPERTS: Ken Amendola North Florida Wine Supervisor Kathleen Anderson Northwest Florida Wine Supervisor Jim Greeley Southwest Florida Wine Supervisor Shayne Hebert Central Florida Wine Supervisor Atanas Nechkov Central Florida Wine Supervisor Paul Quaglini Southeast Florida Wine Supervisor Bill Stobbs West Florida Wine Supervisor

If you would like to ensure you’re receiving the Wine Journal each time it’s published, send an email to Lorena Streeter (lorenas@abcfws.com) and we’ll add you to the “always mail” list.

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Gift ideas, serving suggestions and wine etiquette… We’ll help you make it through the holidays. FOR THE FRIEND WHO HAS ALMOST EVERYTHING

Bill’s gift ideas crucial for all wine lovers

YOU CAN DRINK IT, BUT CAN YOU SPEAK IT?

Practice your wine lingo for the next dinner party

WHAT’S A CELEBRATION WITHOUT CHAMPAGNE? Atanas has his top Champagne picks for the holidays

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THERE’S NO PLEASING EVERYBODY

Trying to pick a crowd pleasing wine? Paul has some ideas

FRENCH CUISINE PROVIDES ONE WINE GUY WITH SOME INSPIRATION Jim shares his secret of Muscadet and oysters

NEW YEAR’S DAY BRUNCH IS JUST AS IMPORTANT AS THE NIGHT BEFORE Kathleen offers up some unique brunch cocktail recipes

GIVE THE GIFT THEY’LL SHARE WITH YOU

YOU CAN’ T HAVE ONE WITHOUT THE OTHER

Selecting wine for someone else is hard, but Ken can help

Shayne’s favorite food and wine pairings

WINE TO WATCH Sparkle with Cuvée Comte de Marne Brut Grand Cru

Always Be Celebrating –

Essential Gifts for the Wine Lover

BILL STOBBS

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@ABCWINEBILLS

et’s face it! There are hundreds of wine-related artifacts and accoutrements on the market these days, each one vying for our attention with promises of wine nirvana, or at least offering itself as an interesting conversation piece and enhancer of good times. And there are wine geeks out there who thrive on these toys. But I just want to put forward a few essentials that most wine lovers will agree do enhance their enjoyment of wine. Decanters. Most wine lovers will agree that a decanter comes in handy for offering wine in its optimum state. What does a decanter do? Basically, a wine decanter has two distinct purposes: eliminating sediment and crumbled cork from the wine and aerating the wine at an accelerated pace to bring out its aromas and flavors. Sediment in wine is in no way harmful to you, but it does give the wine a cloudy appearance, can impart bitter flavors and is not a pleasurable texture to hold in your mouth. As far as aerating is concerned, there is, as always, debate about which wines should be decanted. Some experts say none. Others say all. But most agree that at least heavier reds— Cabernet Sauvignon and vintage port especially—will be better for decanting. Older, quality reds are mostly decanted in order to remove sediment and should usually not stand after decanting for more 30 minutes. Younger heavy reds can seem about $20 better by decanting and then letting them stand for an hour. Decanting lighter style reds like Pinot Noir and white wines is left to the discretion of the host. How to decant? If the wine has a lot of sediment, stand the bottle upright for 24 hours before decanting. This will allow the sediment to drop to the bottom. Remove the capsule and cork. Wipe the neck of the bottle with a clean cloth, especially the inside of the neck. Pour the wine slowly and steadily into the decanter and stop when the sediment reaches the neck of the bottle. You may need a lit candle or flashlight to do this effectively. Or you can simply pour the wine through a tea strainer. Let stand until the wine is ready to be poured. It’s that simple. What shape decanter should you choose? First, do not buy decanters to match your kitchen color scheme—decanters should be clear so you can see and enjoy the color of the wine. Secondly, choose a decanter that is easy to clean (and never use detergent!). Wine Glasses. There are wine glasses for every style and variety of wine, and each one claims to be specifically created to enhance the flavor experience of whatever varietal it was made for. Again, if you are such a taste expert by all means play around with this. But most wine lovers will tell you that you only need three or four different types. And some will say fewer than that. If you don’t mind the expense and finicky care and frequent breakage, then crystal glasses are the way to go, because they reflect the light better and show the wine beautifully. Also they can be spun thinner to impart greater enjoyment. Less fine glasses are acceptable but they should not be colored or frosted. Basically, you should have red wine glasses (fairly large and with a big bowl so you can swirl and get your nose in there), white wine glasses (usually not as large and with a smaller

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WSTOBBS@ABCFWS.COM

mouth because you don’t want to oxidize whites as quickly), and champagne flutes (long and thin so as not to disperse the bubbles so expeditiously). Remember: Always hold the wine glass by the stem so the warmth of your hand doesn’t affect the temperature of the wine! Corkscrews. Are you a helixophile? One who collects corkscrews? To some extent, most wine lovers are. Those who are less experienced tend to prefer the wing (aka butterfly or angel) corkscrew, where you twist the helix down into the cork while the two wings rise, inviting you to push them down and thus easily remove the cork. The sleeker and more professional and, yes, still easy (with a little practice) way is to use a wine key, also known as a waiter’s friend, which is what sommeliers generally use. Sometimes, with longer, older or crumbling corks, a twin prong cork puller will come in handy. Wine Aerators. The jury is still out on this one. What a wine aerator does is force oxygen to be circulated quickly through the wine as you pour it thus decanting instantly. (Another method called hyperdecanting, where the wine is pulsed quickly through a blender, is generally not recommended.) Traditionalists miss the ritual and romance of preparing the wine for enjoyment and say aerators cut too quickly to the chase. Corksicles and Thermal Bags. These articles provide a method of chilling wine to the correct temperature quickly. Opinion as to their effectiveness is divided and, once again, traditionalists prefer the ritual and romance. So yes, there are a multitude of wine gadgets and accoutrements out there. A few are absolutely essential and are available at select ABC stores. As for the others—why not spend your money on the wine itself instead? For recommendations just look to the other articles in this Wine Journal!

WINE LIST RED BAROLO

Cabutto Barolo ‘Tenuta la Volta’ 2009 (pg 15) Valfieri Barbaresco ‘Bric Mentin’ 2007 (pg 15)

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Lonen Napa Cabernet (pg 15) Rugged Hills Cabernet Sauvignon (pg 11)

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE

2009 Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Olivets (pg 13) Château de Haute Serre Cahors (pg 15) Xavier Vins Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009 (pg 15)

MERLOT

Château Manoir du Gravoux 2009 (pg 15)

PINOT NOIR

Carneros Creek Pinot Noir ‘Carneros’ (pg 15) Fog Bank Pinot Noir (pg 11) Maysara 3 Degrees Pinot Noir (pg 15) Rene Lequin Colin Santenay ‘Vieilles Vignes’ (pg 15) Vista Peak Pinot Noir (pg 15)

RED BLEND

2010 Ch. Cantenac-Brown (pg 12) Giorgi Costarosa Sangue Di Giuda (pg 8) Nicolis Ambrosan Amarone (pg 12) Racemi Anarkos (pg 9)

SANGIOVESE

La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino Riserva gli Angeli (pg 8)

WHITE CHARDONNAY

Daniel Dampt Chabli (pg 14) Playtime Blonde (pg 11)

MUSCADET

Domaine de la Chauveniere Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie (pg 14)

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Domaine de L’Auriere Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine (pg 10) Poiron Dabin Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine (pg 10)

RIESLING

Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese (pg 13) Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Spatlese (pg 13) Thanisch Bernkasteler Badstube Kabinett (pg 10) Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch (pg 13)

SANCERRE

Jonathan Didier Pabiot Pouilly-Fume (pg 14) Pascal Gitton Sancerre ‘les Montachins’ (pg 14)

WHITE BLEND

Buoncristiani Triad Blanc (pg 8 & 13)

WHITE BURGUNDY

Ballot-Millot Meursault (pg 15) Jean Pascal Puligny Montrachet (pg 8) Le Chai de la Chapelle Macon-Villages (pg 15)

ROSÉ Collalto Spumante Rosé Extra Dry (pg 8) Domaine de Carteresses Tavel Rosé (pg 15) Saint Pierre de Mejans Luberon Rosé (pg 15)

SPARKLING Charles Mignon Cuvée Comte de Marne Brut Grand Cru (pg 11) Collalto Prosecco Collalto Spumante Rosé Extra Dry (pg 8) Cuvée des 6 Cépages (pg 6) Domaine Dehours Grand Réserve Brut (pg 7) Domaine Dehours La Côte en Bosses Extra Brut 2005 (pg 7) Haton Extra Brut Rosé (pg 6) Haton Extra Brut (pg 6) Moutard Arbane Champagne (pg 6 & 8) Moutard Cuvée des 6 Cépages (pg 6) Tosca Brut Prosecco (pg 11) Veuve Ambal Marie (pg 11)

Wine Tips to Save Your Life (OR A T L E A ST YOUR HOLIDAY PART Y ) HANNAH GRANTZ

TALK THE TALK It can be intimidating to hear a wine connoisseur describe their favorite Merlot (Their wine has legs?! Can it walk??). But with a little practice, you, too, can pick up a few key terms to talk the talk: Aroma: smells or f lavors in your wine, such as spices and fruits Bouquet: the complex combination of smells and/or f lavors Body: does what you’re sipping weigh your mouth down? “Body” is the weight and size (such as medium or full-bodied) you feel while drinking Finish: after you’ve swallowed your wine, that lingering aftertaste is considered the “finish” Legs: no, wine can’t walk. Legs are the dripping lines of wine you see falling down the inside of your glass after the wine has been swirled in the glass. More legs=higher alcohol content Tannin: a natural preservative in wine. Tannin dries the mouth, which is that puckery taste left in your mouth after sipping some Cabernets Vintage: the year the grapes in the wine were harvested Find ways to describe the specific wine you’re drinking— Describing or explaining your wine can seem hard to do at first. Throw out words like, approachable, balanced, tannic, meaty, elegant or complex to sound like you really know what you’re talking about. Eventually, you will. Here’s a tip—good wines can be described as concentrated (very f lavorful), crisp (pleasantly acidic), firm (pleasantly tannic), mature (aged well) or round (not too tannic; medium-bodied).

WALK THE WALK Now you know how discuss wine over dinner—but what about serving it? Pouring a red wine at the 75 degree room temperature it’s been sitting on your table at may turn up a few noses. Wines should never be stored or served above 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Red wines are best served at 60-65 degrees (unless they’re light, fruity reds like Beaujolais—stick closer to 50-55 for those). They can be chilled in the refrigerator for just a few minutes before serving to bring them down from your room temperature. White wine serving temperatures vary between 40-55 degrees; those that are light and dry or rosés and sparkling wines should be served closer to 40 degrees. Once the wine is ready to be served, be sure you’re pouring it into the right glass. The shape of your wine glass can affect the taste, plus you want to make sure you have enough room to swirl that delicious juice around without spilling it all over the table. The bowl of the glass for reds should be wider than a white wine glass, as to allow the wine to breathe, releasing aromas. Make sure to pour no more than halfway up the glass. Now you’re prepped and ready for all things wine during this party-happy holiday season. Any questions? How about recommendations of your own? Tweet us @abcwinecountry.

TOP CHAMPAGNE PICKS FOR THE HOLIDAYS 6 Champagnes from 3 Champagne Growers AT A N A S N E C H K O V

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ost Champagne-enthusiasts are aware of the three main grapes of Champagne: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. A lesser known fact is that there are seven authorized grapes in the region of Champagne which include all colors of the Pinot grape (noir, meunier, gris and blanc), Chardonnay, Petit Meslier and Arbane. François Moutard (Champagne Moutard) made headlines in Paris a few years back when he first introduced his Cuvée des 6 Cépages. Francois added to the traditional Champagne blend the two almost extinct grapes of Petit Meslier and Arbane. Ever since, several other producers have created their own cuvées of six and seven varieties, but almost all of them buy the Arbane from François, who controls 90% of all the plantings of Arbane in Champagne region. The vineyards are located in the communes of Buxeuil and Polisy in the southernmost appellation in Champagne called Côte-des-Bar. The particularity here is that the soil type is very similar to that of Chablis (Kimmeridgian soil), a type of limestone composed of tiny ancient oyster shells.

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Some of the best Champagnes, no doubt some of the best values of all time and my personal favorite, are offered today by Champagne Haton. The house of Champagne Haton was founded in 1928 in the Premier Cru village of Damery in the Marne Valley, prime country for Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir. Father and son duo Jean-Noël and Sébastien, third and fourth generation of Hatons, are today at the reins of the family business and crafting some of the best Champagnes available. At the beginning of 2000, the Hatons have decided to develop a range of ultra-premium Champagnes that can compete in quality with the best names in the appellation. Haton Extra Brut and Haton Extra Brut Rosé were born. Haton Extra Brut is a blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay. Haton Extra Brut Rosé is a blend of 40% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir and 25% Pinot Meunier.

On the southern-facing slopes of the Côte-des-Bar is where the finicky Arbane thrives the best. Arbane and Petit-Meslier were abandoned by Champagne growers in the first place because they are hard to ripen in the cool Champagne climate. Arbane and Petit Meslier bring new levels of fruit and complexity to the Champagne blend. François Moutard also makes a very delicate and complex 100% Arbane Champagne available at ABC Fine Wine & Spirits for $79.99. The Cuvée des 6 Cépages is priced at $56.99.

Haton Extra Champagnes are elaborated following these three fundamentals: A high percentage of Chardonnay in the blend (unlike the classic range which is predominantly Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir) to create cuvées of great finesse.

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Assemblage of multi-vintage wines to bring out more complexity and “skip,” when necessary, a year of poor quality harvest. A prolonged aging of 4-5 years, bringing richness of f lavors and extra body to the wines. The bottles are stored sur-latte.

Jérôme Dehours

In other words, Haton Extra is made from the best quality base-wines and those with best aging potential. Every plot is vinified separately in small tanks; a portion of the base-wine is maturated in oak barrels. Haton Extra Champagne bottles are riddled by hand. The glass bottle itself was specifically manufactured for Haton Extra; the color of the glass is black, filtering out the harmful for the wine UV rays. Haton Extra Brut and Haton Extra Brut Rosé are offered at only $44.99 and $45.99 for the rosé. One of the best f inds from VinExpo in Bordeaux last year was Champagne Dehours. Our ABC wine team tasted through two dozen offerings of fine grower Champagnes, all very carefully preselected by DIVA Nord. Everything on that tasting table was excellent, but one producer stood out of the bunch: Jerome Dehours. Our tasters were immediately seduced by the intensity of f lavors and purity of Dehours Champagnes. Two wines were retained: Domaine Dehours Grand Réserve Brut and Domaine Dehours La Côte en Bosses Extra Brut 2005. Jérôme Dehours’ wines come from a 14 hectare domain based in Cerseuil, in the Marne Valley, west of Epernay. Like much of the Champagne area, the estate is formed from a patchwork of 42 plots spread across the villages of Mareuil-le-Port, Oeuilly and Troissy. Since taking control of the family domain in 1996, Jerome has developed a viticulture rejecting pesticides and herbicides and his plots often bear grass in the rows. The diversity of sun exposure, subsoil, varietals, altitude and age of vines gives, as a result, many hues to work with in the creation of true terroir wines. Jerome’s grandfather, Ludovic, was one of the first independent growers— a revolution in the 1930s! His father Robert was, in the 1970s and with a few other growers, a precursor of the idea of ‘reserve wines’, a measure that consists of keeping aside a certain volume of wine from very good years in order to overcome difficulties and cope with future bad harvests. In fact, the Domaine Dehours Grand Réserve Brut consists of 26% reserve wine from the solera system that started in 1998. The reserve wine is the soul of the assemblage. Domaine Dehours Grand Réserve Brut – Champagne, France. Jérôme Dehours is one of the artisanal winemakers in Champagne. He is the third generation of the family which started in the 1930s. His Grand Réserve Brut is mostly Pinot Meunier, the predominant variety in this area of the Marne Valley, with some Chardonnay of the same vintage and a large dose of reserves from older vintages. The wine is yellow/gold with citrus notes, pear and apricot followed by a toasty note. There is a rare balance between lively freshness and the richness from the reserves. Domaine Dehours Grand Réserve Brut is offered at only $42.99. Domaine Dehours La Côte en Bosses Extra Brut 2005 – Champagne, France A true grower Champagne, this comes from a vineyard of just over half a hectare at the bottom of the slope in Mareuil le Port in the Marne Valley. The vineyard is planted in old vines of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. The harvest is all manual and the aging is in oak casks. The wine was bottled July 12, 2006, and disgorged December 13, 2012. Only 2,402 bottles were produced. A golden color leads to notes of toast, almond and f lowers on a rich middle and long-lasting finish. Domaine Dehours La Côte en Bosses Extra Brut 2005 is offered at only $64.99.

Dreaming of THE PERFECT

HOLIDAY W INE

PA U L Q U A G L I N I

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he most wonderful time of the year is upon us once again, and with that comes all those highly anticipated holiday get-togethers.

As my friends and family began to arrive I proudly welcomed them with a glass of Moutard Arbane Champagne ($80). A few moments later I witnessed my aunt reaching into the fridge. With a carton of Minute Maid in hand, she proceeded to offer to make mimosas for anyone who thought the Champagne was too dry. Ugh. I had carefully chosen two of my favorite wines from this past year for the big event. Jean Pascal Puligny Montrachet ($55) was my choice for those who preferred white wine and La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino Riserva gli Angeli ($70) for fans of red. As the turkey platter made its way around the table I was mortified to see one after another of my guests scooping ice cubes out of their water glasses straight into some of the best wine on the planet. I had enough and began screaming … and then mercifully I awoke and my nightmare was over. I love the holiday season, and there is nothing I enjoy more than entertaining my friends and family. I’m also well aware of the stress that comes along with trying to create that “Martha Stewart” perfect holiday dinner. I can’t offer much advice on cooking a perfectly moist turkey or a f laky pie crust, but I can offer a recommendation that is sure to make choosing your holiday wine a lot less stressful. My golden rule: remember who is coming to dinner before you start pulling corks. Americans are drinking more wine than we ever have in our history. According to Impact Databank, last year we consumed 321 million cases of wine—up 15% from 2005. The facts don’t lie, as we have solidified our status as the world’s top wine drinking nation by volume. I’m ecstatic when I read reports such as this, believing in some small way that I’ve helped make the USA number one. However, it’s important to keep things in perspective. Most of us are not drinking vintage Champagne or Brunello di Montalcino—even on special occasions—and that’s ok. I’m certainly not advocating that just because your guests wine journal | 8

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are not wine aficionados you should serve them some cleverly named two dollar wine. In fact, a holiday gathering is the perfect time to introduce high quality wines with lots of personality that will have your guests wondering where you did your holiday wine shopping. When I select wines for a diverse group I look for wines that have what I call crowd appeal. These are typically well balanced, fruit forward wines with enough complexity to get people talking about them around the dinner table. The following is a short list of wines that have worked to perfection for me on numerous occasions: Collalto Spumante Rosé Extra Dry ($19)— No matter the occasion, nothing sets a festive tone like a glass of sparkling wine. This delightful sparkler is a staple in my house throughout the holiday season. Softer than and not as dry as French Champagne, Collalto Rosé pairs well with seafood and light appetizers. Buoncristiani Triad Blanc ($30)—A complex blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Viognier with aromas of mango, pineapple, peach and a creamy texture on the finish. Triad finds an interesting middle ground between the different grape varieties in terms of f lavor, body, texture and ripeness. Thanisch Bernkasteler Badstube Kabinett ($19)—It’s no surprise that most people who say they don’t like German wine have never had one from a quality producer. Wine writer Tom Stevenson has written, “Classic German Riesling is incomparable. No other wine can offer in a single sip as much purity of fruit, intensity of f lavor, and thrilling acidity as a fine Riesling.” If you choose to offer one from a quality producer like Thanisch or Selbach Oster, I’m sure you will have your guests wondering why they don’t drink more German Riesling. Giorgi Costarosa Sangue Di Giuda ($14)— We first introduced this unique Northern Italian red wine to our guests in the spring of 2010. There is good reason why this wine quickly became one of our bestsellers. Nearly everyone who tries Costarosa falls in love with it.

Racemi Anarkos ($15)—Fruit-driven red blends are more popular than ever with our guests. Anarkos is not just another wine in this crowded category. Malvasia Nera, Primativo and Negramaro combine to make a wine with remarkable complexity. Once again your guests will be wondering where you shopped for your holiday wine. ‘Tis the season for planning every last detail of your holiday get-together. Don’t let your choice of which

wine to serve add to your stress level. Personally, I don’t believe in a lot of rules when it comes to food and wine pairing, especially with traditional holiday meals. There is such a smorgasbord of intense f lavors (cinnamon, nutmeg, cranberry, rosemary, horseradish, etc.) that finding the perfect wine is just a dream. I think if you follow my wine suggestions you will be on your way to making Martha Stewart pleased with your holiday meal planning. Now, good luck with the pie crust and happy holidays.

Musings About Museums, Muscadet, Oysters and Holiday Stuffing

JIM GREELEY

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t the tail end of my last visit to France, I had a couple of spare days before returning stateside. So I spent a day in Paris at Musée d ’Orsay admiring its astonishing col lection of impressionist a nd post-impressionist paintings, scu lptures a nd objets d ’ar t. Seeing t he incredible work s of Monet, Renoir, Ceza nne, Va n Gogh, Tou louseLautrec, Degas a nd Rodin up close a nd persona l was a n unforgettably uplif ting experience. Even t he Musée d ’Orsay bui lding is a sensor y mar vel unto itself with its stunning Beaux Arts architecture. By the time evening rolled around, I worked up an appetite for some local oysters and a chilly glass of white wine. If you’re a fan of bivalves and happen to find yourself, as I did, near Paris’ Saint-Germain district, you owe it to yourself to stop at Huiterie Regis. It’s a little gem of a restaurant, conveniently located on the Rue de Montfaucon, right across from the entrance to the Mabillon metro. I ordered a dozen exceptional les fines de claires with a bottle of Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine. The oysters were exceedingly fresh, plump and utterly delicious. Aged sur-lie, the lemony, yeasty Muscadet was a perfect foil for the salty, natural brine of the Fines de Claires. Very few food and wine pairings on planet earth go this well together! Muscadet is produced outside the coastal city of Nantes near the mouth of the Loire River. The grape that produces this tang y, zesty wine is the Melon de Bourgogne variety. The best versions are generally aged sur-lie, spending time in contact with their spent yeast cells, thereby gaining added richness and complexity. The top appellation in the region is Sèvre et Maine with its well-drained, granitic soils. Muscadet also pairs very well with poultry. I recently had an urge for another glass of stony Muscadet, but this time with

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lemon baked chicken and goat cheese. My w ine choice was Domaine de L’Auriere Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine ($10), a great example of this often overlooked, but very food friendly Loire Valley white. Now how does all of this tie in with the holiday season? Well, the holidays are a time to count one’s blessings and spend time with family and friends. It’s also a great time to enjoy a little food and a glass of wine. For most of us the traditional Thanksgiving meal centers on a great turkey with all the trimmings, accompanied by a savory stuffing. By all rights, the dressing for the bird shouldn’t be an afterthought. It won’t be if you incorporate a f lavorful oyster stuffing into your repertoire. Which brings us back to the pairing of oysters and poultr y with Muscadet; the briny, savory and buttery notes of the oyster stuffing will match best with a wine that has a little bottle age and extended sur-lie aging. I’d recommend Poiron Dabin MuscadetSèvre et Maine ($12), produced from old vines and aged 14 months on its lees. Tr y t his recipe for oyster stuf f ing ca kes featured in the NY Times and adapted from Chef Peter Woods: Total time: 45 minutes, plus about 2 hours cooling. Ingredients: 1 pint (about 2 dozen) shucked oysters with their liquor, finely chopped 12 ounces stale bread cut into 1/2-inch cubes 3 ounces (about 1/3 cup) freshly grated parmesan cheese 1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter 3 slices bacon, chopped 4 stalks celery, chopped 1 onion, chopped 1 1/2 cups chicken stock, plus extra for binding

2 tablespoons fresh oregano, chopped fine, or 1 tablespoon dried 2 tablespoons fresh thyme, chopped fine, or 1 tablespoon dried 6 fresh sage leaves, minced 2 teaspoons ground coriander Coarse salt Black pepper Neutral oil, such as grapeseed or canola, for pan-frying Preparation: 1. In a large bowl, combine oysters and their liquor, bread and cheese. Set aside. 2. In a heav y skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Add bacon and let cook 3 to 5 minutes, until fat has rendered and bacon is cooked through but not crisp. 3. Add celery and onion, stir to coat, then add stock and bring to a simmer. Let simmer until vegetables have softened, 10 minutes. Add herbs and coriander, mix well and turn off heat. 4. Add vegetable mixture to bread mixture in bowl. Toss well, season to taste with salt and pepper, then refrigerate until chilled, about 2 hours, or overnight. 5. When ready to cook, form chilled mixture into 3 1/2-ounce patties, about the size of a clementine. Let patties come to cool room temperature. Heat a film of oil in a skillet and, working in batches, pan-fry patties, turning once, until browned on both sides and hot all the way through. Serve hot, with bacon scallion cream sauce if desired. Yields about 1 dozen patties, or enough stuffing for a 15- to 18-pound turkey (see note). Note: If using as a turkey stuffing, there is no need to chill the stuf f ing. Simply stuff the turkey cavity after combining the vegetable and bread mixtures in step 4. It can also be baked separately in a baking dish, uncovered, at 350 degrees.

The Morning After the Night Before Brunch

K AT H L E E N A N D E R S O N

o what happens the day af ter your mar velous New Year’s Eve celebration? You have all this wine and liquor lef t over from the night before and it’s up to you to make the brunch cocktails. The great part is you can now use any of these recipes to wow your friends and bring in this New Year right! There is so much more than just the usual—mimosa (sure), Bellini (always)…but, there must be something else! Do I have the recipes for you! Let’s begin: Two calling for prosecco: Gin Spritz ½ oz lime juice Fresh mint leaves (muddled) 1 tsp sugar 1 ½ oz London Dr y gin Collalto Prosecco Directions: Muddle mint leaves with lime juice and sugar in Champagne f lute. Add gin and top with Collalto Prosecco. Peppered Pear Prosecco Pureed pear Fresh ground pepper Tosca Brut Prosecco Directions: Combine pureed pear and fresh pepper in bottom ¼ of Champagne f lute. Top with Tosca Brut Prosecco. One of my favorite recipes that I came across while thinking of the ultimate holiday place setting was this little number: Cherr y Jam 1 tsp cherr y jam 1/3 oz lemon juice 3 oz Veuve Ambal Marie Directions: Combine cherr y jam and lemon juice. Add to a spoon. Place the spoon balanced on top of Champagne glass, drop it in and enjoy. The cherr y jam gives the spoon weight to balance on the Champagne glass. How cool to use this as part of your plate decor as guests walk in to brunch. When you’re ready to enjoy the cocktail, just drop the spoon in and stir. A neat and unique way to start the day!

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So now that we have seen our spark ling wine concoctions, there are a few things we can do with our partial bottles of wine. It’s great when you can surprise someone with a new way to drink! The Pick Me Up 1 ½ oz Tierra Fertil Silver tequila 1 ½ oz Fog Bank Pinot Noir ½ oz lime juice ½ oz agave nectar 2 oz grapefruit soda Directions: Combine in shaker then pour over rocks and garnish with lime

New Year’s Resolution 1 ½ oz Cuesta Mesa Silver tequila ½ oz Rugged Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 1 oz triple sec 1 oz agave nectar 1 oz lime juice Garnish: orange rind Directions: Combine ingredients over ice in a shaker. Strain into martini glass and garnish with orange rind. Refresher 2 oz Playtime Chardonnay 1 oz Cayman Reef Dark rum ½ oz vanilla syrup ½ oz pineapple juice Directions: Combine ingredients in shaker and strain over ice in a rocks glass. Any and all of these wine cocktails will be a great hit for New Year’s Day brunch. Just remember, you don’t have to wait until New Year’s to tr y these drinks; they’re great all year round. This is where I saved the best for last…it seems to be the biggest hit at any party with all the ingredients ever yone loves. I begin with spark ling, I end with spark ling. Beauty Elixir 1 ½ oz Sunset Hills Small Batch Gin ½ oz strawberr y puree ¼ oz lemon juice ¼ oz simple syrup ¼ oz Haton Rosé Champagne 2 cucumber slices Directions: Muddle the cucumber; combine rest in shaker with ice then strain into glass with a cucumber garnish. I love the idea of mixing up the norm with wine, liquor and fun. Just remember the wines and liquors used in the recipes are suggestions. Go by any of your local ABC locations and check out what we have available. Let me k now if you have a chance to use these at your holiday parties (Twitter: @abcwinekat)! Drink them before your brunch party for New Year’s Day and choose one or two for the day that pairs with your meal. Use one to toast with bringing in the new year. Take these recipes with you throughout the year and tweak them to make them your own.

‘Twas the Month Before... KEN AMENDOLA

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@ABCWINEKENA

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KENA@ABCFWS.COM

es, I know; let us finish eating the Thanksgiving turkey before we start thinking about Christmas. We say that every holiday season and then you turn around and the next week is Christmas. So I thought I would help out all of the procrastinators (like me) and talk in this article about some of the wonderful wines to drink or give as a Christmas gift. Honestly, I think buying Christmas wine gifts or buying wines for your holiday dinner is fairly easy…no, really. For gift buying, you simply visit your favorite wine shop (ABC, of course). For wine as a gift, I am a firm believer that you buy the best wines you can find that fit your budget, and I recommend that you give a wine that your friend may not buy for themselves. So often people come in to buy a wine gift and look for their friend’s “favorite” Cabernet or Chard. While that is very thoughtful and “safe,” there is so much wonderful wine out there that I just can’t imagine drinking the same juice all the time. A gift should be special, so make it special. Okay, so these are some wines I think would be terrific holiday wines, both to drink with your feast or to give to the person on your list who can appreciate a wine of distinction. There are so many different traditions for Christmas dinner, unlike Thanksgiving where we all serve that bird. In my home we eat Italian, some people serve a Christmas ham or a standing rib roast, lamb or roast goat. Here are a few reds that I would serve along with Christmas dinner or give to anyone. First is for the Cabernet drinkers who just won’t drink anything else. The 2010 Ch. Cantenac-Brown ($70), a wonderful red from the Margaux region of Bordeaux, is a wine that will turn heads at your table. “Dense purple, with an extraordinary nose of sweet forest f loor, blackberry jam and graphite, this wine soars from the glass…spectacular length makes this a giant classic a fabulous sleeper of the vintage that still remains underpriced,” 94+ from the Wine Advocate. Another big red that I will be having with Christmas dinner is the Nicolis Ambrosan Amarone ($64). This amazing wine from the Veneto region of northern Italy is one of my very favorite wines. “Firm tannins frame the airy texture, juicy acidity and notes of spiced plum, dried tea, black cherry, anise and chocolate,” 91 points from the Wine Spectator. I plan to serve this with my handmade raviolis, sausage, homemade meatballs, beef and red sauce. The last red wine is one that would make a memorable gift to any wine geek on your shopping list. The 2009 Sabon

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Chateauneuf du Pape Olivets ($41). This 92 point wine from the Wine Advocate is delicious with a roaring fire and a warm friend, but also as a part of any meal of roast beef or lamb. This is a wine that “exhibits notes of incense, camphor, truff les, herbs, black cherry jam, raspberries and a hint of charcoal…rich and dense with supple tannins as well as a textured, lush mouthfeel.” If anyone of your friends, family or guests do not find great pleasure in these wines, maybe Moscato is the answer! I do have some choices for those of you that are looking for some white wine ideas. Now these may not be what you are used to, but trust me, they are spectacular tasting wines. The first two are white wines that for some reason make most people turn their nose. These two wines from the Mosel region of Germany are wines of superior quality that will make most everyone you know change their opinion of Riesling immediately after tasting these. The two wines from Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch are both from the 2010 vintage, the Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Spatlese ($40) and Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese ($30). The first thing I would mention about these wines is that it doesn’t seem to bother anyone to drop $40 to $50 or more on a very ordinary California Chardonnay these days, but to spend $30 to $40 on an exceptional Riesling of uncompromised quality is out of the question. Okay people, time to get out of the Chardonnay zone—there are many other great white wines to try! The Spatlese is “fresh, intense, with grapefruit and green apple f lavors f lanked by ginger notes. Rich and savory midpalate, offering lemon overtones framed by a steely structure. Mineral and sea salt details emerge on the finish,” 93 points from the Wine Spectator. The Auslese received 92 points from the Wine Enthusiast—see what the experts think of the quality of these delicious wines from Germany? What is lost to most out there is how amazing these wines are with food. Seventy percent of the wines made in Germany are white and Germany, per capita, is one of the top wine drinking countries in the world. Try either one of these wines (or both!) and you will be pleasantly surprised at their versatility as a dinner wine and as a wine of pleasure on its own. The last w ine to show is a ver y intrig uing blend of Sauv ignon Bla nc, Chardonnay a nd Viognier from Buoncristiani, their Triad Blanc ($30). This appealing wine brings some of the characteristics of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay together, with the f loral notes of Viognier to produce a wine that will please many of your white wine fans. Buoncristiani notes that this wine has “complex aromas of lemon zest, white peach, spicy pear, orange sherbet, f loral muscat, vanilla and lemon pie. On the palate, a creamy texture leads the way to layered f lavors of mango, pineapple, apple, key lime pie, honeysuckle and vanilla. Zesty citrus f lavors, tropical fruit and ultra-bright acidity linger in the crisp and clean finish.” Christmas is a time for celebrating with family and friends, for expressing how you feel about these special people in your lives, so when it comes to getting or giving a bottle of wine, let’s make it a truly unique bottle this year. I wish you all a very happy and jolly holiday season this year and all the best in the upcoming New Year.

Top Eight

Food & Wine Pairings S H AY N E H E B E RT

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@ A B C W I N E S H AY N E

like food quite a bit. Wine, too. But what I like even more is food and wine together. They are one of those odd combinations where the sum is greater than the parts (like Bordeaux, right?). I spend too much time in the kitchen, playing with food, trying to make it wine-friendly. Sometimes it turns out fine, while other times not so much. Getting it right every time is not the goal; I believe the time spent and the mistakes made are as much a part of the joy as the few times when it actually works nicely. It is reassuring to know that there are “classic” pairings to lean on when company (or the holidays) arrive. I have said before, there is no better time than with guests or during the holidays to trot out the best bottles, and no worse time to miss with the pairings. Cooking for me alone is penalty-free trial and error, but when it has to be right, I can fall back on a small but sure-fire group of match ups that never let me down. Most are well regarded classics, time tested, tried and true for their simplicity…they just work! Here are eight of my favorite pairings, along with a few wine recommendations for each. Of course, feel free to change out the wines, as many wines can be matched with each dish— mine are style guidelines! As I was writing this, it struck me that most of my selections were French—imagine that! It’s like the French invented food and wine. Drink what you enjoy, but every once in a while try one of the classics! 1. Oysters + Muscadet: I fell in love with the many varieties of oysters in France years ago in the city of Nantes—along with the quintessential oyster white, Muscadet, which happens to also come from the same area. The rich softness of the oyster is counter-balanced by the crisp, mineral nerve of the wine—lovely! A fine Chablis does just as well! I recommend Domaine de la Chauveniere Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie ($10) as well as Daniel Dampt Chablis ($20). 2. Chevre + Sancerre: There’s goat cheese and then there’s Crottin de Chavignol. Chavignol is a village of a few hundred inhabitants near Sancerre, in France’s upper Loire Valley. Famous for the wine as well as perhaps the best goat cheese (chevre) in a country with more cheeses than trees. These two simply had to come from the same place. The dry, tart citrus f lavor of Sancerre is perfectly suited to the tart, slightly bitter taste and pungent aroma of the Crottin de Chavignol. If you can’t find the cheese here, a good chevre will do just fine. Any good Sauvignon Blanc will work well too, but none with much oak. Try either Pascal Gitton Sancerre ‘les Montachins’ ($19) or, from just across the Loire River, Jonathan Didier Pabiot Pouilly-Fume ($19).

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3. Tapenade + Provence Rosé: I might just be the biggest Provence Rosé fan in the world! That’s why I live in Florida, so I can sip these fantastic pink wines year round. A bowl of fresh tapenade, toasted baguette and a bottle of rosé is as good as it gets. And the wines are affordable, which I also like! There are many, but few are better for the price than Domaine de Carteresses Tavel Rosé ($14) or the lovely Saint Pierre de Mejans Luberon Rosé ($12). 4. Scallops/lobster + white Burgundy: I don’t drink much Chardonnay, but when I find lobster tails, fresh scallops or Alaskan king crab priced in this solar system, I will grab some and a bottle of white Burgundy. Good California Chardonnay matches perfectly, and if you like yours with a heavy dose of oak, try grilling the above. I go easy on the butter, heavy on the lemon and depending on the company (hee-hee) either Le Chai de la Chapelle MaconVillages ($15) if I like them, or Ballot-Millot Meursault ($45) if I really like them! 5. Rare tuna/salmon + Pinot Noir: Any Pinot Noir works wonders here. We offer many excellent examples at every price range from the likes of California, Oregon and Burgundy, among others. From the entry level Vista Peak Pinot Noir ($10) to the classy, cooler climate Carneros Creek Pinot Noir ‘Carneros’ ($23) or from Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Maysara 3 Degrees Pinot Noir ($20) to Burgundy producer Rene Lequin Colin Santenay ‘Vieilles Vignes’ ($22) you can’t mess this pairing up…unless you overcook the fish! 6. Risotto + osso buco + Barolo: I make risotto a few times a month, not only to keep in practice, but because I really like Nebbiolo. Osso bucco, about twice a year. Your local meat guy will have the veal shanks; ABC Fine Wine & Spirits will have the wine. There are many fine Italian reds that will rock this dish, like Brunello di Montalcino or a nice Tuscan red, but since I love Barolo, I choose Nebbiolo. Try the smartly priced Valfieri Barbaresco ‘Bric Mentin’ 2007 ($25) or party like a rock star with Cabutto Barolo ‘Tenuta la Volta’ 2009 ($43). 7. Lamb + Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Red meat and red wine is as classic as pairings get. A couple times a year, I am the beneficiary of a free-range leg of lamb—and lamb begs for all my best red wines! Big California Cabernets are perfect, as is Bordeaux, Burgundy, Barolo, Brunello, and of course, Rhône Valley reds like Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Rare lamb, oven roast potatoes and loads of rosemary and garlic are the perfect backdrop for so many wines. Try Xavier Vins Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009 ($35) or for an eyeopening take on Malbec, the Château de Haute Serre Cahors ($23). 8. Steak + anything red: While we are on the subject of red meat, a good thick steak on the grill gets respect simply because it is so easy to prepare, so easy to pair with, and sooooo good. Lonen Napa Cabernet ($27) with a fine rib-eye, or the Merlot based Château Manoir du Gravoux 2009 ($18) from Castillon-Cotes de Bordeaux with a thick, rare filet mignon are two of my picks.

8989 South Orange Ave. Orlando, Florida 32824

WI NE

WATCH:

CuvĂŠe Comte

de Marne Brut Grand Cru AR O MA:

FLORAL AND DRIED FRUIT NOTES with almond B LEND:

55% Pinot Noir,

45% CHARDONNAY

FLAVOR:

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C O L O R:

INTENSE, golden F I N I S H:

Crisp, carried on tiny bubbles RE GI O N :

Grand cru villages of Champagne, France PA I R

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Celebrations of any kind