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I was determIned to create somethIng everyone would lIke — not just because you might have celiac or be on a special diet, but just because it was good.
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3/16/12 1:00 PM
FOOD 41
reverse-engineered the recipes, learned noting how more conscious baking and how things work and bind. I was throw- cooking have improved his health. ing away dozens of cupcakes. But I was “Nobody likes to diet,” he says. “But getting better at it,” he recalls. by making better choices, I got healthier.” Bernard-Rivera aimed for a depth of Simple kitchen fixes — such as using flavor he found lacking in most gluten- coconut oil instead of butter for frying — free pastry. He eventually perfected, for can have a dramatic effect, he says. As can instance, a chocolate cake that contains avoiding gluten. “I don’t really miss wheat, only cocoa, garbanzo flour, sugar, eggs but when I go out with friends, sometimes and oil. “You can I stock up,” he says make an expenwith a laugh. He sive cupcake with also keeps a secret lots of ingredistash of Oreos on ents, and it will a top shelf in his be great,” he says kitchen. with a shrug. But Bernardhe believes that Rivera keeps a “if it has more careful eye on the than five ingregluten-free indients, you don’t dustry, which has need it. I’m also mushroomed in always thinking the last five years price, and my infrom occupying gredients need to a small niche to be simple.” boasting global Bernardsales of nearly $3 Rivera also created billion. He’s looking gluten-free tarts for an angel invesand muffins, some tor or partner so he of which he initially can open a storefront sold at Winooski’s café in Burlington. Block Gallery and the “Gluten free is being Winooski Farmers encroached upon” Market. He designed by food corporations, his logo, figured out he suggests. “I can packaging, learned be swallowed up, or I about the shelf life can do this on a bigger of his products, and scale.” began doing deliverIf he does open a ies and accounting. café, Bernard-Rivera Gradually, says he’d like to hire migu El Bernard-Rivera’s cliyoung cooks who BEr NArD-ri VE rA ents grew to include have come through City Market, Healthy CVOEO’s community Living Market and Café, and Dobrá Tea, kitchen program. Giving back is part of as well as private clients. The early days his mission, he says, and he emphasizes weren’t without their challenges. “I that without the help he got throughout would have weeks where I would go to his life, he wouldn’t be where he is today. City Market and all five [pastries] were “[CVOEO] fed me when I needed to be returned,” he says. “I shook it off and fed. Then they taught me how to become kept going.” a better cook,” Bernard-Rivera says. “I Just a year after starting his busi- was just a baker at home; now I’m a cerness, Bernard-Rivera now bakes three tified baker because of CVOEO.” days a week, beginning at 6 a.m. In As Bernard-Rivera sets the hot tarts addition to preparing his regular line, on the counter to cool, he’s relentlessly he’s constantly trying to improve. upbeat. “Hard knocks, they happen. You “I research the recipes, and I keep have a choice: You can be a victim or a playing with them. I’m always build- contributor. So you take steps. You’re ing, figuring out how to get from A going to make mistakes, and it’s not to B better and quicker,” he says. He always easy.” recently spent a week perfecting a The still-warm tart is proof he’s gluten-free, vegan cinnamon roll for ironed out those mistakes. Each warm Dealer.com, where he’ll be giving a bite is a little piece of heaven. m cooking class this April. After Bernard-Rivera slides tarts into Chef Papi Gluten Free, 233-1226. the oven, he rounds his hands above his chefpapi.com belly to demonstrate its previous girth,